In the beginning there was a white ZJ (the Polar Bear), an idiot with a broken hand and a 5.3 from an ’03 Silverado.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Pozo/IMG_0240.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/Pins2.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/d90f8d9a.jpg

It had a 5.9, pulled that shit. I wanted a more powerful and efficient motor, for those interested, the 5.9L is for Sale (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=818339).

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0279.jpg

First things first, strengthen up the unibody, inside and out.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_6022.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_6039.jpg

Next started fabing the motor mounts.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_6028.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0372.jpg
Passenger side:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0373.jpg

Driver’s side:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0374.jpg
And finally on its own:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0375.jpg

Now on to the coil overs.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0385.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0380.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0381.jpg

Next added a 4th bolt for a waggy steering box.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0390.jpg

Cut a hole in the fender for a second battery.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0666.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0668.jpg

Fabbing the air bump brackets. Mocked them up in SolidWorks first.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/AirBumpBracket.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0689.jpg

Working on the track bar.
Frame side bracket:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/FrameSideBracket.jpg
Axle side bracket:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/AxleSideBracket.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0675.jpg

Track bar at ride height:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0683.jpg
At full bump:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0681.jpg
Clears the diff by .75”
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0682.jpg

Primered the engine compartment.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0469.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0471.jpg

And that's where I'm at now. I painted it yesterday, this week I'm going to wet sand it and next weekend I'll clear coat it and start the final assembly.

I guess no one knows what to say. I say kick-ass! That's thinking outside the box. Takes some will power to deal with bracing a uni body for abuse.

Looks good :smokin:

Looks great! Plans and spec on the motor? And what trans and transfercase?

I spy two Gen III whats the other one?

Thanks guys. That picture of the motor is from when I picked it up at the wrecking yard, so that other motor isn't mine. For now the internals are stock. I had the ECU programmed by Wait 4 Me Performance with a mild tune. I'm going to weld a custom set of long tube headers after I get it to pass smog (I live in California). And Im just going to use a short intake tube with a K&N filter for the intake.

The transmission is a 4L60E and the transfer case is an NP242 adapted using an adapter from Advance Adapters (they are conveniently 45 minutes north of me).

What happened to your hand and do you plan on a cage?

Lookin good, man. That 5.9 is HUGE :eek:

Keep up the progress :smokin:

What happened to your hand and do you plan on a cage?

The hand was my own dumb ass fault, I punched a palm tree after a friend pulled some f'd up shit. And then I didn't get it checked for a month and by then it had fused back together at a bad angle so they had to operate to reset it. :shaking:

A cage will definitely happen but right now I just need to get it driving again so I have a car for the winter.

Thanks guys. That picture of the motor is from when I picked it up at the wrecking yard, so that other motor isn't mine. For now the internals are stock. I had the ECU programmed by Wait 4 Me Performance with a mild tune. I'm going to weld a custom set of long tube headers after I get it to pass smog (I live in California). And Im just going to use a short intake tube with a K&N filter for the intake.

The transmission is a 4L60E and the transfer case is an NP242 adapted using an adapter from Advance Adapters (they are conveniently 45 minutes north of me).Why not save money and get a GM NP241 drivers drop?? They are common and will bolt right on the 4l60 with a stock adapter and it will have VSS in it.

Or if you want to keep the NP242, pull the input from a similar year NP241C and swap it into the NP242. No adapters necessary. Still have to deal with the VSS though...

Pete

Thanks guys. I have two VSSs to deal with. I'm using the one in the 242 to feed the Jeep ECU so my stock gauges work and the one between the 4L60E and 242 that Advance Adapters provides will serve the Chevy ECU for shift points and what not. Also I already had the 242 and Advance Adapters is only 45 minutes away. I just drove up to their shop and after chatting with one of the guys for two hours, getting a full tour of the shop and getting to check out and crawl under their four door rubicon, they gave me a really good deal on their kit.

Needless to say, it's already installed, the new input shaft is in the 242 and I can't take it back.

I'm interested on how your going to make it pass smog... great build.

I'm interested on how your going to make it pass smog... great build.

Very carefully haha. Actually the '03 motor I had only has catalytic converters and EVAP for emissions, both of which I have or am going to include. After all of the research I've done I think I've satisfied all of the requirements. And if it does fail, I'll transfer it to my address in Nevada.

Very carefully haha. Actually the '03 motor I had only has catalytic converters and EVAP for emissions, both of which I have or am going to include. After all of the research I've done I think I've satisfied all of the requirements. And if it does fail, I'll transfer it to my address in Nevada.Cats and hook up the EVAP system. GM quit using the EGR that year. As the GM controls the fueling better to reduce the emissions.

I don't think you'll have a problem. As long as the EVAP system doesn't leak. Did the ZJ have an EVAP canister? All you have to do is hook the canister purge valve to it.

Coated the transmission with an industrial epoxy thats tough as shit. It's a lot grayer than it looks in the photo. I'm doing the transfer case tomorrow.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0490.jpg

We've got a few projects going :) My Jeeps, my roommate's baja bug, and other roommate is painting his motorcycle. Our neighbors LOVE us.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0489.jpg

Very nice work all the way around! What epoxy did you use on the trans if you don't mind me asking. I have mine apart and after it comes back I was thinking about coating it with something.

Also I love the Papa Johns delivery sign on the top of the Bug!!!:laughing:

Keep up the great work!

Thanks! This is the epoxy I used, I bought it at an industrial coating shop.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0505.jpg

I finally finished painting and doing the clear coat! and for the first time since June was able to start putting stuff back on it.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0504.jpg

Also, the bug drove today for the first time in 4 years!

I like the detailing, cleaning, and painting the engine bay! Top notch!

Oh yeah FUCK the neighbors!!!

Lookin good man, what are you using to cut all of you brackets etc?

Lookin good man, what are you using to cut all of you brackets etc?

With a grinder! haha I did a little write up on how I did these on Mall Crawlin, I'll copy it over here for reference.

Since I've got a little time before class, here is how I have gone about making all of my brackets with nothing but a grinder, spray paint and sheets of sticker paper. I use SolidWorks for my modeling because I get it for free through Cal Poly but if I didn't have that luxury I would use Alibre (http://www.alibre.com/)

1. I start by measuring the dimensions that I need from the frame. For example on the track bar bracket, I measured the distances between all of the bolting holes and how far they were from the bottom on the frame. I used this information to dimension them in SolidWorks.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/PartSketch2.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/PartSketch.jpg

2. Next I used the extrude function in SolidWorks to turn them into 3D, since I used 1/4" steel to make the track bar bracket, I made the model 1/4" too.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/Part3D.jpg

3. After turning all of the 2D plates into 3D parts, I combined them all in an assembly. Here I can see how it is all going to fit together and where I need to make changes.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/Assembly3D.jpg

4. I then take the plates and turn them into drawings. All of these drawings are printed out and stuck to cardboard. I take the cardboard model and use it to make adjustments to the parts to ensure the bracket will come out as I need it.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/2DDrawing.jpg

5. Once I'm satisfied with the drwaings, I print them out 1:1 on large sheets of sticker paper. These I cut out and stick to the metal that has been cleaned with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner. Below is a photo from my construction of motor mounts.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/IMG_0367.jpg

6. I then spray around the edges with spray paint in case the sticker comes off I still have a line to follow.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/IMG_0369.jpg

7. Once all of the brackets are cut out using the grinder, I take the pairs that are supposed to match and clamp them to the drill press and drill the hole. I then use the hole and a matching size bolt to clamp the two pieces together and put them in the vice. Then I use a flap disc on the grinder to give the two pieces the same profile.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/IMG_0370.jpg

8. And I am left with professional looking pieces that I can use to construct my brackets.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/IMG_0371.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0675.jpg

This is an amazing build. I'm really impressed by your ingenuity, especially given the basic hand tools you have access to. At first I thought you were another professional machinist with access to CAD driven cutting tools. Well done.

Thank you very much! :)

Yeah saw the "boxer's break" and had to comment. Nice hardware pins in the metacarpals, Titanium?

Keep the build going, Nice fabrication and cad. Killer :flipoff2:

Yeah saw the "boxer's break" and had to comment. Nice hardware pins in the metacarpals, Titanium?

Yeah, I punched a palm tree ... sober. It should have been my friends face and it wouldn't have hurt or cost as much. :shaking: They are surgical stainless.

Keep the build going, Nice fabrication and cad. Killer :flipoff2:

Thanks, putting that engineering degree to work :grinpimp:

Finished finals, now I get to work on the Jeep once again. Got the air bump brackets welded to the frame this evening.

Here is full droop, right now they're setup for 4" of travel but thats way to much for my needs so in the future I'm going to limit them to somewhere near 2".
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0599.jpg

Here is full bump, they contact a UHMW disc on the LCA bracket.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0601.jpg

Nice build, very clean and detailed. x2 on the fab work with basic tools.

Next time just hit the friend, you sleep bettar at night not wishing you would have handled shit differant.
If he is a true friend he'll get over it, if not oh well.:flipoff2:

Keep posting the pics

im no expert.
everything looks really good.

except the bump placement.
somewhere on the net there is a great picture of a prerunner with a broken fk 1 1/8 rod end because the bump/striker were on the link and not the axle.

im not an engineer but i would think that the the bump placement basically creates a lever and transfers alot of force your suspension joint, tab and bracket during a full compression.

oh and if you buy a torch and ruff cut your stuff with that, youll save alot of money on grinding wheels, with the same end result.

Thanks! This is the epoxy I used, I bought it at an industrial coating shop.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0505.jpg

I finally finished painting and doing the clear coat! and for the first time since June was able to start putting stuff back on it.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0504.jpg

Also, the bug drove today for the first time in 4 years!

Hey that looks pretty damn good. What did you pay for a gallon of it?

Very cool build and ingenious way to make the brackets! me likes! Will definitely keep a tab on this build as Grands are always in my heart :D

im not an engineer but i would think that the the bump placement basically creates a lever and transfers alot of force your suspension joint, tab and bracket during a full compression.

Thanks for the input. I happen to be a mechanical engineer so I'm going to run some numbers tonight and see what I get for it placed where it is.

Hey that looks pretty damn good. What did you pay for a gallon of it?

It was like ~$90 or so. Very expensive, but it seems pretty tough. I'm also using it to paint the transfer case. Hopefully it wasn't a waste. :smokin: It's actually a two part epoxy that comes in two gallons, so it effectively is two gallons of coating.

Very cool build and ingenious way to make the brackets! me likes! Will definitely keep a tab on this build as Grands are always in my heart :D

Thank you very much.

Man this is a neat build, I like how you have done things, the epoxy, the 5.3, all the brackets etc etc etc, Keep up the good work.

Man this is a neat build, I like how you have done things, the epoxy, the 5.3, all the brackets etc etc etc, Keep up the good work.

Thank you very much :)

Updates?!?!?

You should have had some time to work on this over Christmas break right? :D

Updates?!?!?

You should have had some time to work on this over Christmas break right? :D

x2 :)

I'm really diggin this build. I think I might go try to break my hand...seems like it turned out good for you :homer:

x2 :)

I'm really diggin this build. I think I might go try to break my hand...seems like it turned out good for you :homer:

I wouldn't recommend it, to this day a firm hand shake hurts. :D

Got the transfer case sand blasted.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0695.jpg

Then painted it with the epoxy I used on the transmission.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0698.jpg

Finished probably about 95% of the wiring, I have the parts of the old Jeep harness I need to make the gauges work fully integrated into the Chevy harness so once I'm ready to put it in, all I have to do is plug it in. As a side note, I had my Chevy ECU programmed with two fuel and shift maps, to change between the two you have to provide a momentary ground to one of the pins. Since I will no longer be using the OD Off button on the dash, I repurposed it to change between these maps.

Below you can see the Camaro headers mocked up. The driver's side clears the motor mounts great but the passenger side has literally a millimeter or less between it and the poly bushing. I'm trying to decide if I need to cut the mount up and move it down a bit or not. I'm not sure how much heat these things can handle.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0704.jpg

I finished fabbing the axle-side coil over brackets.

Driver's Side:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0631.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0630.jpg

Ran out of CO2 before I could finish the passenger side but here it is:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0632.jpg

Got the brake lines done as well, did them like the rear so now they aren't a limiting factor in suspension droop.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0633.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0634.jpg

do you have more pics of your brake line setup? how did you get the lines from the body to the axle and what not

I wouldn't recommend it, to this day a firm hand shake hurts. :D

Broke mine about 4 years ago, still hurts to this day depending on the weather. Guess I didn't help when I punched a door a couple months ago. :shaking:

do you have more pics of your brake line setup? how did you get the lines from the body to the axle and what not

I'll take some tomorrow in the sunlight, basically a hard line runs from the master cylinder down the frame rail to a braided steel line that jumps to the top of the lower control arm.

Broke mine about 4 years ago, still hurts to this day depending on the weather. Guess I didn't help when I punched a door a couple months ago. :shaking:

Good job genius :flipoff2: So far I've learned my lesson and haven't punched any more solid objects.

That Amerlock 400 is tough stuff. We use it at work for primer. Kinda expensive.

It reminds me of powdercoat, but it kinda looses its shine quickly in areas where it comes in contact with UV light.

What did you use to thin it?

What about big axles?

That Amerlock 400 is tough stuff. We use it at work for primer. Kinda expensive.

It reminds me of powdercoat, but it kinda looses its shine quickly in areas where it comes in contact with UV light.

What did you use to thin it?

I wasn't aware you could thin it, I'm by no means a professional painter, and the guy that I bought it from said it shouldn't need thinning. So I just put it in the gun and cranked up the pressure ... it took a while to get done.

What about big axles?

I just graduated from college so at the moment I'm balling on a budget :D. Once I start making money I'm thinking about a 609 front, 9" rear but thats after my credit card recovers from this phase haha

[QUOTE=downtowncb;10930796]I'll take some tomorrow in the sunlight, basically a hard line runs from the master cylinder down the frame rail to a braided steel line that jumps to the top of the lower control arm.



are you not using a proportioning valve?

Oh yeah, forgot about that, yeah I'm using a proportioning valve.

Ah, the great Southern Californian Polar Bear... such a majestic creature. :D

Build is looking great bud, keep it up.

so did you just plug off one of the outs iin the prop valve going to the front? im thinking of doing the same thing in my cj, so i can avoid having extremyl long braided lines off the frame

I thought about the concept of having a single front line T'ed to go to both brakes, would the diameter of that single flow hinder the flow considering the massive difference in volume required to compress the front calipers vs the rear discs/drums?

this is exactly what i was thinking...especially since ill be running a dana 60 front, and the calipers are much bigger then 1/2 ton stuff

You should be fine with 3/16 brake line, just make sure you try to make the lengths equal that go to the calipers from the T.

The actual volume of fluid flow when hitting the brakes is very minimal, the major factor in braking is fluid pressure which is maintained by the solid steel hard lines and braided steel lines. This setup just makes it so I can go to any suspension height and amount of droop and not have to worry about brake line length. If you choose to go this route you should be fine.

The actual volume of fluid flow when hitting the brakes is very minimal, the major factor in braking is fluid pressure which is maintained by the solid steel hard lines and braided steel lines. This setup just makes it so I can go to any suspension height and amount of droop and not have to worry about brake line length. If you choose to go this route you should be fine.


if you get time snap some pics of how you came off the prop valve down to the axle...thanks!

Ah, the great Southern Californian Polar Bear... such a majestic creature. :D

Build is looking great bud, keep it up.

Haha! I'm going to have to remember that!

if you get time snap some pics of how you came off the prop valve down to the axle...thanks!

Here you go.

Here's coming off the proportioning valves into two flexible tubes from the existing ABS setup:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0635.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0636.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0637.jpg

Cool build. Its nice to see something newer, something other than a wrangler build.

More shit crossed off the list:

*bolted up entire drive train
*made block off plates for the EGR ports on the Camaro headers
*made new motor mounts (had to get them away from the headers)
*made the track bar to drivers side motor mount bracing

If the weather holds up im going to put the motor in tomorrow temporarily so I can finish the motor mounts. Once they're done I'm having all the brackets powder coated.

I'm also adding a bar that will run under the oil pan between the motor mounts to use as a vertical point over the axle for a pulley for the suck down winch.

Plenty of distance from the headers now.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0644.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0640.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0641.jpg

Ahh things that make me smile, I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0645.jpg

Awesome build man! I wish I would have found it sooner. Why didnt you put it in the cherokee section?
Keep up the good work!

Awesome build man! I wish I would have found it sooner. Why didnt you put it in the cherokee section?
Keep up the good work!

Because my jeep is HARDCORE :flipoff2:

Just kidding, for the life of me I don't know why I started this here. Thank you btw

your GC is tits man I love the fab work and the well thought out design. Its always the little things that come back to haunt you and it looks like your rig will be wheelin it hard for years to come. Keep it up man.

your GC is tits man I love the fab work and the well thought out design. Its always the little things that come back to haunt you and it looks like your rig will be wheelin it hard for years to come. Keep it up man.

Thanks a lot bud!

Didn't get nearly as much as I was hoping to today, two steps forward and one step back. Got the motor in and set pretty much where I want it but didn't have time to finish the motor mounts...

Here is the full setup for my fuel system though:

I'm using the in-tank pump as a lift pump to a Walbro. I removed the stock fuel pressure regulator from the top of the fuel pump unit and made an aluminum plate with an AN fitting to stick down to the fuel pump.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0663.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/DCP_0665.jpg

From here the lines run to the pump and the corvette fuel pressure regulator. The unconnected line is waiting for a 90* fitting to connect to the regulator.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0650.jpg

It then runs down to a hardline that runs along the frame rail up to the engine bay.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0651.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0652.jpg

Then a soft line jumps from the frame to the rails.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0653.jpg

Oh and ran into a problem with the passenger side exhaust manifold. That stupid ass stub sticking out that does god only knows what hits the fucking frame... Not sure what I'm going to do about that, I thought my exhaust problems were solved with these Camaro manifolds, guess not.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0644.jpg

That bung sticken out is just an Un-finished cast for an air injection tube. Smog stuff. Its un-used so if you know how to weld cast cut it off and weld in a plate and youl be fine.

Ok, that's what we were thinking. Thanks, looks like I'll give it a shot welding it up.

Have you thought about LS2 manifolds? They dump somewhat closer to the center but are real tight, and they are set up for the O2 sensors...

http://i8.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/33/12/6834_1.JPG

http://www.cj-8.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13137&stc=1&d=1236228088



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-LS2-LS2-6-0L-Exhaust-Manifolds-Corvette-Camaro_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c0f09d979QQitem Z120511388025QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA ccessories

Haha! I'm going to have to remember that!





http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0637.jpg

If that control arm breaks on the trail you might tear that line and not have any brakes.

Have you thought about LS2 manifolds? They dump somewhat closer to the center but are real tight, and they are set up for the O2 sensors...

That might just do the trick. Thanks!

Hell those are cheaper than I paid for the Camaro headers...

If that control arm breaks on the trail you might tear that line and not have any brakes.

Very true but there is a good amount of slack in that frame side braided line. Besides, if I break a control arm, the rear will probably end up doing most of the breaking anyway since there will not longer be a control arm to apply breaking force to the chassis. I know part of design/engineering is trying to mitigate what-if factors but some will always be in the final design. I at least reduced the chance the line will get snagged by a branch or rock by routing it over the top of the control arm instead of the side.

Got the motor mounts done for the second time.

Driver Side:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0655.jpg

Passenger Side:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0657.jpg

And the start of the bar for the suck down winch, I just haven't added the tabs for the pulley yet.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0660.jpg

Got the SwayLoc installed today, pretty happy with how it's turning out. I used a SwayLoc intended for a TJ because from my understanding they have the longest arms. I want long arms so that at full droop I don't accidentally invert the sway bar (I've done it before)

This part was very much inspired by GoldenSD's SwayLoc install, so credit where credit is due. Here is the combination sway bar bracket and radiator support. Amazingly this thing only weights 5 lbs more than the original radiator support and it is way beefier.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0691.jpg

Here is the driver side at ride height, I love how the flash brings out every damn spot of rust, I can't wait to paint & powder coat this stuff.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0694.jpg

And the passenger side.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0695.jpg

Here is full bump, it touches the coil over hoop barely, so I'll do a little clearancing tomorrow.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0696.jpg

And here is full droop, you can see why I wanted the longer arms with these 14" coil overs. Even here I'm a little nervous about the angle between the arm and connecting rod, I might make my own custom length ones.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0697.jpg

nice... i mean Awesome Build... so how nice is it to work on this when it's clean? i just never have worked on a clean rig thats all.

How the hell are you getting away with this build in SLO? Haha. Trust me, in the last 3 years, my roomates and I have managed to get bitched out more times than I can count by our liberal neighbors. We've managed to keep a pretty clean act and we generally don't push the boundaries, hell, we haven't even thrown a party in over a year. Ya know, we only wrench when it's daytime and we clean up our shit afterwards. Most people just don't like offroaders...:rolleyes: Let alone college kids in a family neighborhood!

You have no idea how many cops have rolled by and say "we have a report that you are running an illegal chop shop out of your garage..." We tell them that they are our vehicles and then they leave. Haha.

Anyway, I've seen your rig around town, and I might have even met you at a Polygoats meeting. You are Wayne's roomate right? I have class with him.

The front end looks good though. I'm interested to see if your airbump mounts will ruin your bushings on your uppers.

Good luck with smog!

awesome build man, can't wait to see it complete. I think you're the first to do this swap. way to think outside the box!

nice... i mean Awesome Build... so how nice is it to work on this when it's clean? i just never have worked on a clean rig thats all.

It just means that I get to enjoy the Jeep for it's whole life, once this round is done it will basically be a brand new Jeep.

How the hell are you getting away with this build in SLO? Haha. Trust me, in the last 3 years, my roomates and I have managed to get bitched out more times than I can count by our liberal neighbors. We've managed to keep a pretty clean act and we generally don't push the boundaries, hell, we haven't even thrown a party in over a year. Ya know, we only wrench when it's daytime and we clean up our shit afterwards. Most people just don't like offroaders...:rolleyes: Let alone college kids in a family neighborhood!

You have no idea how many cops have rolled by and say "we have a report that you are running an illegal chop shop out of your garage..." We tell them that they are our vehicles and then they leave. Haha.

Anyway, I've seen your rig around town, and I might have even met you at a Polygoats meeting. You are Wayne's roomate right? I have class with him.

The front end looks good though. I'm interested to see if your airbump mounts will ruin your bushings on your uppers.

Good luck with smog!

We're lucky because the side of our house with the garage faces an apartment complex where most the people have um ... questionable residency status, so they sure as hell aren't calling the police. Otherwise I've met all the neighbors and am just really polite about it, I've told them all if they have any problems with something I'm doing, feel free to call me. So far haven't had any problems, I actually have had more than a few stop by to see what the hell I'm even doing.

I'm not Wayne's roomate but ya we're friends. He actually lives in the house I used to live in.

I'm sure the air bumps will probably wear out the lower bushings a bit quicker, but if it gets unreasonable, I'll just cut the lower end off and put on a Johnny Joint.

awesome build man, can't wait to see it complete. I think you're the first to do this swap. way to think outside the box!

As far as I can tell, I was the first to START this swap haha, but unfortunately I wasn't the first to complete it. There is a guy on Mall Crawlin that just completed a Gen III 6.0 swap into his ZJ buggy, it's pretty bad ass.

Starts about here:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showpost.php?p=263992&postcount=759

I have to agree with the others nice to see something a bit different, keep th e pictures coming!!

I continue to make progress but most of it isn’t photo worthy. I’m still waiting for the headers to get here.

I’ve wanted to have HID fog lights for a long time but they are EXPENSIVE, so I pieced my own together. I have about $125 into each, which is a lot cheaper than most setups.

I used 55W 5000K HID bulbs and Hella 4000 housings. The Hellas come with H1 bulbs so I just order the HID setup with the same.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Jeep%20Upgrades/IMG_0709.jpg

I had to do a little modification to get them in there but nothing major. I used a stepper bit to drill a hole in the back of the housing and the stand large enough to fit the bulb connectors through.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Jeep%20Upgrades/IMG_0712.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Jeep%20Upgrades/IMG_0714.jpg

I used a grommet on the back to protect the wires and keep stuff out.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Jeep%20Upgrades/IMG_0715.jpg

I don’t have a real world shot yet because they aren’t on the Jeep but here is a garage door shot. I am VERY happy with how bright these puppies are and the quality of light.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Jeep%20Upgrades/IMG_0711.jpg

Are those HIDs from DDM tuning? I mine form them and they a fucking great!!! Best thing I have ever done and nicely priced if they ever fuck up you can buy more!

Are those HIDs from DDM tuning? I mine form them and they a fucking great!!! Best thing I have ever done and nicely priced if they ever fuck up you can buy more!

Yup, under $50 for 55W HID shipped if I remember correctly. And now they have a life time warranty, not too bad.

Very nice build.
Realy liked how you shared the way you make brackets etc...

Very nice build.
Realy liked how you shared the way you make brackets etc...

Thanks, I've learned a ton from these forums so I'm just trying to help others in my position.

Two steps forward and one step back. I got a ton of work done but ... the Corvette headers arrived and they won't work. So now I'm going to take everything back out tomorrow and cut up the frame to make the Camaro ones work...

I pulled out the front axle and painted it. Then put all the brake hardware back on. I haven’t put on the passenger side hardware yet because one of the studs on the Spider Tracks spacer has gnarled threads so I’m trying to find a replacement.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0717.jpg

Close up of the brake line routing.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0718.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0719.jpg

Test fitting the radiator and fan so I could measure for a filter and intake to order. I also started routing all the cable for the starter, power distribution center, alternator, etc…

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0720.jpg

Here is the box I welded that will house the fuses and relays eventually.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0722.jpg

X2 on this should have been in the cherokee forum... almost missed it....

That being said, I can't believe you're getting away nary a comment on the dirty thirty up front...

What size foa's? Uptravel/downtravel? Tire size? Still running the aluminum 44 in the back? Flexed it out yet to check coilover clearance on the framerails?

Cool build btw...

X2 on this should have been in the cherokee forum... almost missed it....

That being said, I can't believe you're getting away nary a comment on the dirty thirty up front...

What size foa's? Uptravel/downtravel? Tire size? Still running the aluminum 44 in the back? Flexed it out yet to check coilover clearance on the framerails?

Cool build btw...

Thanks.

Technically it's not a 30, it's a 44 from a TJ Rubicon with chromo shafts. I'll run it until I have problems with it, then I'll probably build a 609. The rear is a 44 from the same Rubicon.

14" Remote reservoirs setup for 50/50. Yeah I've cycled the suspension and everything clears, it's tight but it clears. Currently 33's but as soon as it's driving it is getting 35's.

Thanks.

Technically it's not a 30, it's a 44 from a TJ Rubicon with chromo shafts. I'll run it until I have problems with it, ...


I think with chromos and upgraded joints you should be OK on 33's/ 35's, as long as you don't get too stupid. But you really ought to consider trussing it to ensure that it holds up to the power you'll be putting into it.

I think with chromos and upgraded joints you should be OK on 33's/ 35's, as long as you don't get too stupid. But you really ought to consider trussing it to ensure that it holds up to the power you'll be putting into it.

If you look at the earlier photos, you'll see that I added mini trusses to reinforce the crappy dana 30 knuckles. I may add more in the future but for now I just want to get the damn thing driving.

Anyways, pulled the motor ... AGAIN. Cut the frame, made a scab plate and was about to weld it in when it started to rain. I'll finish it up tomorrow.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0725.jpg

I almost finished plating the hole, I'll post photos tomorrow.

I also installed spacers in my air bumps today to reduce them from 4" of travel to 2.5". I'll see how I like this length once I get to drive it and adjust from there.

Here is a shot of the internals and the spacer that I turned on the lathe. It goes in place of the shorter spacer currently on the shaft.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0727.jpg

Here is a comparison shot.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0729.jpg

I had a little accident when I was reassembling the first one and shot shock oil ALL over the place, mostly on the ceiling haha.

Realized I forgot to show how I mounted the ps pump to get it out of the way of the steering box. I put the Chevy accessory bracket on a mill and made a flat plane to bolt a 1/4" aluminum plate to hold the Jeep pump.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0733.jpg

Here is the hole I had to create in the frame to clear the damn exhaust.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0725.jpg

Here is how I plated it in.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0731.jpg

Looking good bud. Keep it up.

Looking good bud. Keep it up.

Thank you.

I made a bracket to turn the evap canister on it’s side.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0766.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0768.jpg

Who says you can’t fit 33’s on a stock height grand! I had to get the rear springs out because I’m doing a spring swap with another forum member. I had RE 4.5” coils with a 2” budget boost and now I’m swapping in Clayton 7” coils.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0777.jpg

Flat belly.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0782.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0783.jpg

is that your version of a "flat belly"

is that your version of a "flat belly"

Excuse me, not flat but horizontal controls arms... My apologies for misusing the term haha

Almost all the major fab work is done! I still have to finish the passenger side motor mount when I put the engine in tomorrow, but that won't take long. I got the intake and filter in today.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0789.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/?action=view&current=IMG_0789.jpg)

I finished the fuel system.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0791.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/?action=view&current=IMG_0791.jpg)

Shanana bitch! I finally got the exhaust bolt drilled out and the Helicoil in.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0786.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/?action=view&current=IMG_0786.jpg)

And here is the coil over and air bump charging tool I pieced together from PowerTank and McMaster. I am using the nitrogen tank also to power the sway bar disconnect til down the road when I can determine if I can fit a York on this motor too. So today I purchased a 20 cu. ft. tank from Air Gas that I will mount in the back of the Jeep.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0787.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/?action=view&current=IMG_0787.jpg)

Tomorrow the motor is going in and getting all it's fluids and running tranny cooling lines. With any luck I will be able to fire it up by Friday.

Cut, rotated and TIGd the water neck to clear the intake and aim it at the right spot on the radiator.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0792.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0795.jpg

Got the transfer case shift linkage done. I used a push pull cable from McMaster.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0796.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0798.jpg

Got the engine in this evening. Tomorrow is going to be a long day but with any luck I might be able to fire it up, if not then definitely Saturday.

Ok, I know Saturday has come and gone and it still isn’t running. The only thing keeping me from starting it is not having a y-pipe. I need flanges that bolt to the Camaro headers. I found a local muffler shop that by some chance has a set that will bolt right up that he says he had made 5 years back for a Camaro but ended up not using; but he wants $65 for them. I’m going to go back and haggle with him tomorrow.

On to the update, here is the nitrogen tank in the back of the Jeep. I’m using it to charge the shocks and run the sway bar disconnect. I have a 1/4” air line running through the cab and out the firewall. The regulator will be here in a couple of days.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0803.jpg

Here’s the air valve mounted on the side of the fuse box.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0813.jpg

Here is where I ran the steam line. I taped a hole for ¼” npt and installed a barbed fitting.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0807.jpg

Here is how it sits right now.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0809.jpg

Had to keep the Vortec cover. :D

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0812.jpg

I converted the old transmission cooler to power steering duty.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0810.jpg

Don’t worry, the reservoir clears fine and isn’t going anywhere.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0811.jpg

Love the build... :smokin:

How thick is the filler neck on the rad where you tapped it for the steam line?

That's the one thing that makes me nervous... :eek:

Very nice man lookin real good. And Honestly you should be fine on that D44 front and rear with your motor as long as you use the skinny pedal inteligently lol My father and I have ran a 4 Bolt Main 350 with Mostly Gen I Corvette internals for goin on 15 years with AA Rebuilt NV4500 and Atlus II on a D44 Rear Stock Axle shafts and a Spicer Power Locker and a D30 front stock axles and a spicer Power locker and never broken an axle or ring nd pinion. Drive Smart and youl be fine man

Thanks guys. Ya I'm not too worried about the 44's with the chromo shafts, I tend to be smart about wheeling; not to say I can't screw shit up.

How thick is the filler neck on the rad where you tapped it for the steam line?

It's about 3/16" thick, it's snug in there and I sealed the threads with RTV. I'll run it and keep my eye on it.

Here is a shot of the completed coolers. The junkyard transmission cooler I had was way too thick to fit in there so I ended up getting the biggest one they had at Napa. It is currently plumbed to be the only cooler, i.e. it doesn’t run through the radiator. Does this seem like a bad idea? I have a temp gauge on it so I guess I can just modify if necessary.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0817.jpg

The gasket between the adapter and transfer case that AA provided wasn’t working very well so I dropped the t-case, pulled the gasket out and just sealed it with RTV. Let it sit over night and put it back in this morning, so far no leaks. Here is a shot of the belly clearance. I took the Clayton cross member and rotated it up, gained about 2” of clearance there.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0821.jpg

Finally since that guy was a douche and wanted $65 for two little pieces of metal, I bought a piece of 3/8” steel for $7 and 2 hours in the machine shop later I made my own. I started on the exhaust routing tonight but I ran out of light. It is going to be VERY tricky fitting it around the front drive shaft, especially with upstream cats!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0819.jpg

Keep an eye on the temp gauge, the "cooler" is actually a "heat exchanger" it not only cools the fluids it helps the fluid get up to temp when its cold. Thus reducing wear.

Got the shifter done a couple of days ago. I looked on ebay for a shifter from a Camaro, Blazer etc... but decided I could make the stock one work. So after a couple of hours with the welder and dremel I modified the gating on my shifter to work with the 4L60E.

Here is the modified gating. I also had to extend the mount for the cable holder to work with the truck cable.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0840.jpg

Here it is painted and installed.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0843.jpg

Finally can't remember if I posted this but this is how I mounted the drive by wire pedal.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0845.jpg

Now I'm just waiting for my order of exhaust parts to get here from Summit Racing so I can start this baby up.

I got all the parts back from the powder coater! He did all of these for $40.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0848.jpg

Driver’s side motor mount and track bar bracket.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0852.jpg

Passenger side motor mount.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0855.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0859.jpg

Here you can see the little s bend I had to add to the track bar to clear the oil pan and differential at full bump.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0860.jpg

Here are the transmission cooling lines and temperature sender.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0858.jpg

The lesson in building this Jeep has been and continues to be PATIENCE. I spent 8 hours alone yesterday making the y-pipe fit around all the suspension and driveshaft but it's done and it fits perfectly. That being said I ran out of fawking welding gas on both the TIG and MIG so I can start it but it will be straight open headers. :supz: We have a surprise birthday for a friend today so I don't know if I'll have time to fire it up but maybe Sunday.

Here is the y-pipe, it will be painted with hi-temp black exhaust paint before it goes in for the final time.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0873.jpg

I picked up a preliminary set of coils from Poly Performance. Since I don't yet know how much this pig weighs, we took a shot in the dark and went with both 14" 200 lbs over 350s.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0867.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0868.jpg

Here is where the passenger side reservoir will go when I make mounts for it, I haven't figured out the driver's side yet.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0869.jpg

lookin good, you're sure right about patience, some days ya gotta wonder if you'll ever drive the project

I did this build a lot its different, nice fab work too.

lookin good, you're sure right about patience, some days ya gotta wonder if you'll ever drive the project

The patience finally paid off!

I did this build a lot its different, nice fab work too.

Thanks man!

Anyways, here is the finished exhaust. It is TIGHT under there.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0886.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0887.jpg

And finally here is the video of it starting! I'm still waiting for the rear drive shaft to come back and have a mile long list of small things I need to do but hell, it runs!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/th_MVI_0882.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/?action=view&current=MVI_0882.mp4)

Awsome build!!! The Polar Bear looks ready to kick some a$$!!! :smokin:

Anyways, here is the finished exhaust. It is TIGHT under there.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0886.jpg


Not to diminish your efforts but you've got all the room in the world there...

Wait until you want to stuff a 60 up front with a real 3-link... Upper link will want to play with your y-pipe and the driveshaft will want to meet your driver's side cat...

Looks good regardless...

Finished my ghetto ass steering box brace. I've been pounding my head against the wall trying to figure out how I was going to mount a steering stabilizer because it gets the occasional death wobble without it. I finally settled on piggybacking it on the steering box brace.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0948.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0949.jpg

And look what UPS just dropped off! My $15 junkyard TJ pump wasn't quite the bargain so I bought a 1600 psi CB pump from PSC.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0947.jpg

Got the reservoir mounting brackets. The next thing is to tidy up the wiring, ugh.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0977.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Motor%20Swap/IMG_0978.jpg

Nice work, nice attention to detail, but you really should get in the habit of fully defining your sketches....

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Bracket%20Construction/PartSketch2.jpg

Bump for updates!

This thing has gotta be driving by now. Wheeling????

Ya it's driving and wheeling! As far as grand cherokees go it is fast! I guess I forgot to post updates here.

Anyways I took it to Grand Slam West in Moab Utah last June and it did amazingly well. Literally the first time I put it in 4wd after the engine swap was as I was pulling onto the first trail. I figured with the amount of shit I had changed and replaced something would have to break or come loose or whatever. Three solid days of wheeling and it did perfect!

http://arlojeep.com/Trip-Reports/GSW-10/Hells-Revenge-6-4-10/Weberized/IMG_6964_resize.JPG

http://arlojeep.com/Trip-Reports/GSW-10/Hells-Revenge-6-4-10/Weberized/IMG_7024_resize.JPG

http://arlojeep.com/Trip-Reports/GSW-10/Hells-Revenge-6-4-10/Weberized/IMG_6934_resize.JPG

I moved to Seattle two weeks ago so now I'm on to a new adventure and need to find wheeling up here!

So what are you doing about smog and getting it registered? Or is it going to be a trail only rig? Looks good, I love 5.3 swaps.

I kept all of the smog stuff (evap, 2 cats, etc) so I shouldn't have had a problem smoging it in California but two weeks ago I moved to Seattle and here all you have to do is plug into the OBDII port and not have any thrown codes. So smoging it up here won't be a problem at all! Just need time to get over there and do it.

I kept all of the smog stuff (evap, 2 cats, etc) so I shouldn't have had a problem smoging it in California but two weeks ago I moved to Seattle and here all you have to do is plug into the OBDII port and not have any thrown codes. So smoging it up here won't be a problem at all! Just need time to get over there and do it.

Sweet, another reason I need to get the hell out of California.

looks good so far!

So why did you ditch the 5.9? You getting better gas mileage? How much more power are you making? I've got a 5.9 in my TJ is why I ask.

Also, welcome to the NW!

Thanks, I like it so far. Maybe not so much after the winter though haha.

I went with the 5.3 because the 5.9 is old technology. I got 10mpg everywhere, around town, freeway; towing it dropped to somewhere around 8. With the 5.3 I get at least 50 more horsepower, same or better torque and 16mpg highway, 14.5ish towing and it does it without premium.

A testament to how much faster it is; I recently purchased another 5.9 ZJ seen below. I'm not planning on keeping it, I'm trying to use it to motivate my wayward brother to pull his head out of his ass and do something with his life, like join the military. It was just way too good of a deal to pass up. Anyways, while I was moving up here to Seattle I was towing a trailer loaded up with two dirt bikes, a street bike and tons of other shit with the Polar Bear and I was easily able walk away from the new one not towing anything.

Not to say the 5.9 isn't a powerful motor, because it is, it's just dated.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/359e868f.jpg

Very true. I'm dissapointed to get only 10mpg in my TJ. Plus the power is not earth shattering by any means. I'm thinking about getting an SCT Programmer and trying to get a little more power and be more economical. I would be happy with 13mpg!

If not, I'll be swapping in a 5.2. I hear they do a little better, and are a bit snappier.

Love the ZJ. Very nice build, hope you like the NW (I'm originally from BI).

Very true. I'm dissapointed to get only 10mpg in my TJ. Plus the power is not earth shattering by any means. I'm thinking about getting an SCT Programmer and trying to get a little more power and be more economical. I would be happy with 13mpg!

If not, I'll be swapping in a 5.2. I hear they do a little better, and are a bit snappier.

I say keep the 5.9, with a few mods that jeep could be a real monster. I have a 5.9 in my TJ with 37's getting 14-15mpg and am VERY pleased with the performance. Here's a link to a couple vids of it at the dyno and drag strip: http://www.youtube.com/user/Irocjt?feature=mhum#p/u/5/BPNAXVF1LUk

hey get on to NWwheelers.com

those guys like to come up to canada to wheel. we show em a good time.

Got a close up of those sliders on the silver 5.9?

Never seen those before

No pictures, but here they are:

http://icelandoffroad.com/GrandCherokeeZJ/ZJRockSliders/tabid/1946/language/en-US/Default.aspx

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if there was any updates on this? Did you only put the coilovers in the front or did you do that rear as well? If you did the rear got any pictures. Nice jeep by the way and very helpfull as I am looking at doing coil overs

I always forget to update this thread... I've done a few things to it since I last posted on here.

I swapped on an LS6 intake:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/Jeep%20Upgrades/IMGP2588.jpg

I made new rock sliders that fit closer to the body and protect the sides a bit:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/GSW%2011/IMGP2578.jpg

And I also designed a new front bumper for it in Solid Works, had it cut out on a waterjet and welded it up:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/dtcb70/GSW%2011/IMGP2716.jpg

I haven't got to install coil overs in the rear yet. I'm keeping the cab sealed so to install coil overs in the rear I'm going to fab a horizontal mounted setup with a cantilevered arm going down to the axle. Most of the design work is done, but since I started my new job there hasn't been a whole lot of free time so when there is I usually go four wheeling or exploring with the GF and dog. One of these days it'll happen :D This last June I went to Moab for Grand Slam West and while we were mobbing down some back country roads it became readily apparent that the rear just can't quite keep up with the front.

Well I will just have to keep an eye out for when you do get the rear coil overs on. I am hoping to add some myself and so far this has had the most info on them that I could find. I just spent 500 for a set of axles at the beginning of summer and already want to replace them with something stronger so I can go bigger tires and might as well do the coil overs while I am at it. Considering the axles are both locked and have 4.56 gears in them I might be able to sell them for the same price or more.

Looks great, and the frame bracing was pretty well laid out. I wish mine was that far along, she's just sitting in the driveway all taken apart. :( I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.