I installed a D60 from an 89 Dodge truck, on my Shake down run I managed to break the joint straps on the pinion yoke. It seems there was insufficient clearance between the shaft yoke and the pinion yoke. These yokes were the stock dodge ujoints from the Dodge truck. About 1310 size ujoints but dodge specific joint.
I did check all this out before I actually drove the vehicle and I did do quite a bit of clearancing of the yokes, enough that I wasn't comfortable grinding any more on them. It seemed as though I had the problem licked but I guess not!
So my questions are what type of ujoints and yoke will give me more angle for when the axle droops totally out!
I'm running this on leaf springs and have the pinion rotated up so I have 0 degrees of caster and I really need to get that caster more in line of where it should be. 4-6 degrees.
If I have to cut and turn I'll do that but don't want to do it if it would be possible to fix this with out the cut and turn.

i had the same issue on my YJ years ago with an 89 dodge 60 front. Part of your problem is the dodge 60 has 0* pinion angle at something like 6* of caster while the chevy front has a 6* pinion angle at 6* caster. I fought it for your years with a SOA, SRS, and if i got the pinion rotated up enough to stop binding up on the driveshaft it wandered all over the road and even DW, yet if i got the caster dialed in to drive right it took out the driveshaft. My advice is first start of with a 1310 Pinion yoke, it'll give you more flexability than the stock 1350 that came with it, and second sell that dodge and get a chevy front :flipoff2: That's what i eventually did because of the trouble i was also having with those stupid external 30 spline lock outs. I wanted locking hubs AND 35 spline stubs and the only way to do that on a dodge was going to cost me upwards of $900 :eek:

I know some people have been able to get away with the dodge 60 up front, but mose of them either have links or no Shackle Reversal System. With the SRS, your best bet is to just ditch it or rotate the knuckles :shaking:

First this is the 60 from a 89 dodge, no external hubs, so that isn't a problem,
The front pinion yoke is not a 1350 it is more like a 1310 but it has internal snap rings on the caps. the joint is a chrysler specific ujoint not any of the dana type joints.
What I'm wondering is if the 1350's have more ability to angle than the smaller joints do?
Maybe jess can chime in on this.

All dodges up through 92 had external locking hubs, if yous does not, then someone has swapped it out. If your joint is more along the lines of a 1310 then it is most likely a 1330 joint which is the same diameter of a 1310 just a hair longer. In no way should it have circle clips, those are for axle shafts not driveshafts. To answer your question a 1350 joint will have far less ability to handle steep angles vs a 1310. Sounds like you need to do some measuring cause circle clip dribe shaft ujoints and late 80's dodge 60's with out external hubs is not a factory set up!

You probably have 7290 series joints in there. They run 2-5/8" between the snap rings, and 1-1/8" bearing caps. Dodge also sometimes used a conversion joint at the front axle that was 7290 series one way, and 1330 series the other.

Personally, I would go for either a 1350 or 1410 series, but you really should figure out what your driveshaft to yoke angle is before going too much further.

Typical unmodified Spicer yokes for 1350 or 1410 can do about 22 degrees. It is important to make sure that you try to measure the angle with the suspension dropped out as well, since this is likely to be the worst case scenario as far as angles go.

All dodges up through 92 had external locking hubs, if yous does not, then someone has swapped it out. If your joint is more along the lines of a 1310 then it is most likely a 1330 joint which is the same diameter of a 1310 just a hair longer. In no way should it have circle clips, those are for axle shafts not driveshafts. To answer your question a 1350 joint will have far less ability to handle steep angles vs a 1310. Sounds like you need to do some measuring cause circle clip dribe shaft ujoints and late 80's dodge 60's with out external hubs is not a factory set up!
You need to check your facts on this. I know this is a factory set up for the dodge diesel trucks 1988-1992 I've had a few of this era Dodge trucks and they all had internal locking hubs that look exactly the same as the ford and chevy hubs with the exception of the bar that rotates for locking the hubs is a different color.
I don't want to turn this into a pissing contest I just need to get the problem rectified!
I'm going out now to measure the angles of the drive shaft, pinion, etc. I'll post up what I find out!

Drive shaft to pinion angle with the front fully drooped out is 20 deg. from what I measured. The angle could go a little higher under extreme articulation,but not much.
7620 series joints sound to me to be the joints I have in there if my memory is correct.

i know there kinda spendy but what about a Woods offset 1310 or 1350 u joint? i know its just a bandaid but it beats the hell out of cuttin and welding c's.

Since your angle is 20 degrees, I would shy away from the yokes that list as being capable of running 22 degrees. There are, however, a couple of yokes that will fit the D60 and do 30 degrees out of the box. One is a 7290 series, and one is a 1410. Here are the links for reference:

The 7290:
http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-4-7681-1X.html

The 1410 is a Spicer 3-4-8731-1. I don't have it in my system yet, but it would retail for about $100

I don't want to turn this into a pissing contest I just need to get the problem rectified!

Agreed ;). I know on my buddies cj-7 the only way we were able to fix the problem at the pinion was to order up a tom wood 1350 ofset ujoint and a tom wood hi clearance 1350 dana 60 yoke. I have wheeled it 4 times now with that set up and no more binding. He has alcan 1" soa yj springs, with a chevy 60 and 4* shims.