I'm looking into putting a small lift on my 2003 TJ and then adding some highline fenders. I would like to run 35" MTRs and am wondering what others would recommend for a lift and other parts. Im considering going with Treks highline tube fenders and cutting the hood. I have a budget of about $5000 and want to know if I should put gears and lockers into the stock d44 and d30 or if I should just get new axles? Any other recommendations and tips are welcome.

I would suggest searching. Maybe try searching some key terms "highline fenders" "two inch lift" "dumbass newbie" "retarded and can't read" "budget build" just for starters.

35's and your 30/44 should be fine and your 5K budget should be plenty. You have consider the Gen-Right Hi-Lines as well they are a little cheaper IIRC.

-steve

I would suggest deleting this thread and searching. Maybe try searching some key terms "highline fenders" "two inch lift" "dumbass newbie" "retarded and can't read" "budget build" just for starters.

Fine then I guess I just want a better answer on the axles. I pretty much had my mind made up on the fenders but wanted to get more information on people who have used them on something that doesnt have 40" tires. I have been reading builds and threads far before i joined and all I've got out of searching is that everyone should go straight to a dana 60 and a 14 bolt. Your right in that I am new at this so maybe someone could help me figure things out instead of just calling me a dumbass.

You're gonna get a lot of that, try the Newbie tech section, no flaming aloud.

Thought i would try here first to get information from people who have had experience with things and that it wouldn't be too bad in the non hardcore section. Oh well

Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above

yeah I had a moment. Get over it and shut up

5000 GRAND AND YOU CAN DO YOUR JUNK JUST ABOUT ANY WAY YOU WANT. IF YOU ARE GOING TO HI LINE YOUR FENDERS I WOULD NOT WORRY ABOUT A LIFT, NEW CONTROL ARMS SHOCKS AND MABY SPRINGS, DEPENDING CONDTION OF OEM SPRINGS. IF YOU WANT TO STAY SIMPLE AND CHEAP KEEP THE 44 AND 30 AND DO A CHROMO AXLE SAWP ON THE 30. FOR A 35'' TIRE THERE IS NO NEED FOR A D60. BUT ONCE AGAIN 5K IS ALOT OF COIN. IF IT WAS MY JUNK AND I DID NOT WANT TO WHEEL THE SHIT OUT OF IT I WOULD DO A TERA FLEX LONG ARM LIFT BOUT $3000 BUILD THE AXLES $1000 AND A NEW SET OF 35'S $800-1200 DEPENDINGAND A NEW SLIP YOLK/SHAFT CRAIGS LIST 300 PUTS YOU NEAr 5k. AND YOU WILL HAVE A NICE MALL CRAWLER WEEKEND TOY. AND THEN IT WILL NOT BE LONG AND YOU WILL WANT D60'S AND 40'S:D GOOD LUCK