I have seen it done on a toyota axle before and was wondering if anyone has done it to a rover axle. It will give me 30 splines for my Toyota diff. Cromo shafts for 44s are cheap and plentiful.

I have seen it done on a toyota axle before and was wondering if anyone has done it to a rover axle. It will give me 30 splines for my Toyota diff. Cromo shafts for 44s are cheap and plentiful.

It's been done. 44's are lame. Get a 60 and be done with it.


I would go Toy before the 44.

RoverTracks 30 spline axels and Longfield CVs.

Nuff said.

i think the bobby long longfields are going to be the same cost or nearly the same as 4340 44 shafts with chromo u-joints.

not really worth it. i love the 60's but the beefed up toyota stuff is no slouch, and really light weight. great for 35" tires. i have had rigs from bone stock to trail truck, and now i have a buggy. and if i had to go back and do it all over again, i would have stuck with a well built trail truck/kind of expedition style with just 35's. rover housing, toy thirds, longfields. done.

I have a front 60 sitting in the yard. and the 14 bolt that goes with it.I was thinking about one of those Super 14 housings. But, I am concerned about weight and cost, I have a pile of 44HD front shafts and a bunch of toyota 3rds sitting around. I can respline the 44 shafts to the right length for the Toy diffs myself. I am just wondering if the U-joints will fit in the swivel balls. I figure stock housings with shafts and toy 3rds must be 400-500 pounds lighter than the tons. I plan on running 37s come spring. For now I have 4.7 series gears and 9.00-16s. I know SeriesTrek makes 30 spline setups for series Rover but I don’t know if they are long enough for Defender housings.

I have a front 60 sitting in the yard. and the 14 bolt that goes with it.I was thinking about one of those Super 14 housings. But, I am concerned about weight and cost, I have a pile of 44HD front shafts and a bunch of toyota 3rds sitting around. I can respline the 44 shafts to the right length for the Toy diffs myself. I am just wondering if the U-joints will fit in the swivel balls. I figure stock housings with shafts and toy 3rds must be 400-500 pounds lighter than the tons. I plan on running 37s come spring. For now I have 4.7 series gears and 9.00-16s. I know SeriesTrek makes 30 spline setups for series Rover but I don’t know if they are long enough for Defender housings.

Short answer, yes, they fit. Long answer, of all the stuff in your yard, that is the least appealing.

thanks, By the way Buck, how much did your axles cost you?:eek:

thanks, By the way Buck, how much did your axles cost you?:eek:

My front axle cost about what the car I drive to work costs. :laughing:

But the rear Rovertracks unit was surprisingly affordable! :D Thanks Keith!

See what I mean, Its the damned knuckles and joints that cost so freekin much!

My front axle cost about what the car I drive to work costs. :laughing:

But the rear Rovertracks unit was surprisingly affordable! :D Thanks Keith!

Wasn't it you who said if you're paying too much for Rover parts you're not shopping around?:laughing:

You have a 9" hybrid in front don't you?

See what I mean, Its the damned knuckles and joints that cost so freekin much!

Kinda, they were on my build because once you start with a custom axle like spidertrax, you have to use new. You don't HAVE to I guess, but grinding off 60 knuckles and boring them out, and pressing them on is zero fun. The Dedenbear inner and outers were a LOT. And I didn't pay retail! :eek:

Wasn't it you who said if you're paying too much for Rover parts you're not shopping around?:laughing:

You have a 9" hybrid in front don't you?

Doesn't sound like me. But maybe, I have been here a long time. I got my bud George who always gives me a good deal. Up front is a 9/60 hybrid. I can list the build components if it will help anybody. I did a boat load of reserch before I bought anything.

I would rather pay to much for Bomb proof customs than too much for Rover Crap.

I would rather pay to much for Bomb proof customs than too much for Rover Crap.

Thats the idea. I don't regret the money I have spent because it makes wheeling WAY more fun. I don't worry about breaking anything below the frame. It's extremely liberating.

I would rather pay to much for Bomb proof customs than too much for Rover Crap.

I can understand that, but 44s arent bomb proof...

I can understand that, but 44s arent bomb proof...

I've seen toyota axles with longs wheeling places where the only way you could get a 44 there would be to drop it from a plane.

That said, most 44's are under heavy jeeps and most toyota's have squirrel engines.

I've seen toyota axles with longs wheeling places where the only way you could get a 44 there would be to drop it from a plane.

That said, most 44's are under heavy jeeps and most toyota's have squirrel engines.

true...44s under a lightweight buggy with all ctm stuff would hang..

I quit Wheeling Toyotas last year, I had gone to Dana axles because of birfields. you can put whatever you want in a Toys knuckles, and its still gonna break. 2 of my buddies have cromo 44s in the front of their Heeps and dont break anything with a heavy foot and a 4.0L with 39 inch IROKs. I have a 44 and a 60 sitting in the yard I am just unsure whether or not the 60 is worth the weight penalty. It would also be very easy to respline a set of 44 shafts and keep my stock housing.

Yes, 44 shafts fit in the front housing of a Series truck so I'd assume they'll fit in the front of a coiler. If you go this route, get solid (371 or CTM) U-joints and pull the seals off the caps. This way the oil inside the swivels will keep oil on the joints at the same time.

Doesn't sound like me. But maybe, I have been here a long time. I got my bud George .

Please accept my apologies.

I spent a lot of time on the phone with George Friday discussing my newest letter from Land Rover's attorneys.

I have yet to break anything inside the axle housing, but my paranoia has led me to the Salisbury for the rear and I'll decide what to do in the front some time soon. I still have two nine inch differentials with, IIRC either 3.73 gears or 3.54s, along with two D60s with 4.1s in them. Decisions, decisions. The relatively low price and availability of parts for both the nine and the 60 are refreshing. I would love to spool the rear!

I quit Wheeling Toyotas last year, I had gone to Dana axles because of birfields. you can put whatever you want in a Toys knuckles, and its still gonna break. 2 of my buddies have cromo 44s in the front of their Heeps and dont break anything with a heavy foot and a 4.0L with 39 inch IROKs. I have a 44 and a 60 sitting in the yard I am just unsure whether or not the 60 is worth the weight penalty. It would also be very easy to respline a set of 44 shafts and keep my stock housing.

The 60 is by far the best option. The 14 bolt is not imo. That thing is a boat anchor!

Please accept my apologies.

I spent a lot of time on the phone with George Friday discussing my newest letter from Land Rover's attorneys.

I have yet to break anything inside the axle housing, but my paranoia has led me to the Salisbury for the rear and I'll decide what to do in the front some time soon. I still have two nine inch differentials with, IIRC either 3.73 gears or 3.54s, along with two D60s with 4.1s in them. Decisions, decisions. The relatively low price and availability of parts for both the nine and the 60 are refreshing. I would love to spool the rear!

Nothing to apologize about buddy! I run a spool in the rear. In the desert with the part time center it feels completely open. Sucks balls on road though.

Nothing to apologize about buddy! I run a spool in the rear. In the desert with the part time center it feels completely open. Sucks balls on road though.

Eventually, I'll spool the rear. For now, the truck still has a B-W T-case so it may as well be part-time!:flipoff2:

I don't intend to drive this one much further than to the trailer:grinpimp:

Slade has custom 44 inners in the Coiler swivels on his 80" serious one. A bit pricey though. I think the rovertracks/longfield option its the best strength for the value.

-Jeff

I think the rovertracks/longfield option its the best strength for the value.

-Jeff

Moreso than the AEU2522?

Moreso than the AEU2522?

While the 2522's are cheaper, I guess I view it as an essentially stock set up (albeit stronger) with stock parts etc, akin to upgrading a 10/32 spline set up to a 23/24 spline set up. Stronger, but essentially stock.

-Jeff

Moreso than the AEU2522?

at least 2X stronger than stock

I had 2522s that were treated, I blew one up with the front unlocked while turning on hells with 34 inch truxus'.. mucho weako :D

I had 2522s that were treated, I blew one up with the front unlocked while turning on hells with 34 inch truxus'.. mucho weako :D

Were you turning right or left? :laughing:

I broke many, many AEU2522's both oem and allmakes prior to getting rid of the rover axles. From 35's through 38.5's albiet with a heavy truck too.

Bill

Yes, 44 shafts fit in the front housing of a Series truck so I'd assume they'll fit in the front of a coiler. If you go this route, get solid (371 or CTM) U-joints and pull the seals off the caps. This way the oil inside the swivels will keep oil on the joints at the same time.

Sounds like a plan. I would really like to keep the stock front housing and swivels, it will save me a shitload of suspension and steering work. Have you ever broken one of your axles? Do you make axles for Defenders?

Slade has custom 44 inners in the Coiler swivels on his 80" serious one. A bit pricey though. I think the rovertracks/longfield option its the best strength for the value.

I can cut down and re-spline the 44 shafts I have for free. Just wondering if I should use my 60 to make a 35 spline Salisbury, or do I order one of those Super 14 housings?

I don't see how a chromo 44 shaft is even close to strength of a 30 spline longfield. I am not sure what type of wheeling you are doing in Montreal, but we do pretty much all rocks down here. While 30 spline longfields are breakable it takes a lot to break them.

I have personally seen many many more chromo 44 stuff break than longfield stuff.

Even though toys don't typically have a lot of horsepower they have significantly more gear reduction. So when you are talking about applied force to the components I would bet that my truck has a lot more ability to put stress to my components than any rover with stock style axles would. Even with a crawler box, rovers are a factor of at least 4 less on gearing.

If putting on the 44 stuff is easy and you don't break parts with your type of wheeling go for it. Down here though most people are either going 1-ton or lightening up things and going with longfields.

-ben

I have wheeled 60s on 325-85-r16 XMLs (39 inches) and the ground clearance sucks. Tons are great, if you have 46’s. I plan on 37-38s and dont want to go back to Diff bashing.

I am just unsure whether or not the 60 is worth the weight penalty.

I know I am new to this, but being that that would be unsprung weight, why would it be that big of a penalty? Especially with the strength that will be gained...

I have wheeled 60s on 325-85-r16 XMLs (39 inches) and the ground clearance sucks. Tons are great, if you have 46’s. I plan on 37-38s and dont want to go back to Diff bashing.

Have you tried.......shaving it! :idea: :flipoff2:

In all seriousness, from my experience, Ben is right.






I know I am new to this, but being that that would be unsprung weight, why would it be that big of a penalty? Especially with the strength that will be gained...

There is almost no down side. People are too worried about weight. It does matter, and I try to stay slim, but not to the level people think it does. I mean do you really think a 6,000LB RR is going to suck ass at 6,100 LB?



Noob. :flipoff2:

I broke many, many AEU2522's both oem and allmakes prior to getting rid of the rover axles. From 35's through 38.5's albiet with a heavy truck too.

Bill

Were the AEU2522s more robust than the "standard" Rovers CVs?

How did the AllMakes measure up against the OEM?
I just got a pair of the AllMakes as either spares, or replacements for my new front axle in the even the ones in there now are rusty, worn or otherwise questionable.

I know I don't run huge tires (and of course, the fact that I haven't been wheeling in years-boy do axles last long if you never take the truck out of the barn) and that's probably why I haven't broken anything inside the axles yet, but I'm terrified of not being able to make it out the trailer when I'm a couple miles in.

I'm willing to pay the penalty of weight and ground clearance in exchange for more strength (nearly bombproof in my application, I'd think) and dirt cheap replacement parts (D60).

Don’t worry about the cost of replacement parts for a 60, you wont need them.
Mine came of a crew cab plough truck that was 25 years old. needed U-joints, brake pads and grease and oil. Wheeled the snot out of it for 2 years with a marlin crawler and 39 inch XMLs, still runs like new.

And there is no way my Defender weighs more than 3500lbs. Not even with my mom in the back!!! I ditch the windshield, doors, and spare tire to save weight on tough trails.

Yeah you must not do that tough of wheeling. Standard 60 stuff breaks all the time when we wheel. So I would just throw the 44 stuff in you'll be fine.

-ben

Take your AEU2522's and throw the cages at you favorite heat treat guy and tell to temper them to about 52RC Through the cage and the bell in te cryo freeze for a week at absolute zero, they'll break at about 4000 foot pounds.
Standard Disco 1 CV's break at 3000 ft pounds

or
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

Yeah you must not do that tough of wheeling. Standard 60 stuff breaks all the time when we wheel. So I would just throw the 44 stuff in you'll be fine.

-ben

I broke my stock dana 60 outers the first time out with 37's and wheeling weak ass stuff. Your totally spot on.

And there is no way my Defender weighs more than 3500lbs. Not even with my mom in the back!!! I ditch the windshield, doors, and spare tire to save weight on tough trails.

You will be surprised when you put it on a scale. There is a dime sized piece of darkmatter located somewhere just over the t-case. I have not been able to find it, but it weighs 1000lb.

Take your AEU2522's and throw the cages at you favorite heat treat guy and tell to temper them to about 52RC Through the cage and the bell in te cryo freeze for a week at absolute zero, they'll break at about 4000 foot pounds.
Standard Disco 1 CV's break at 3000 ft pounds

or
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

And thats the end of that! :laughing:

I quit Wheeling Toyotas last year, I had gone to Dana axles because of birfields. you can put whatever you want in a Toys knuckles, and its still gonna break. 2 of my buddies have cromo 44s in the front of their Heeps and dont break anything with a heavy foot and a 4.0L with 39 inch IROKs.

this sounds like a combination problem...your driving skills suck, and your buddies drive like pussies...:flipoff2: seriously though, 30 spline longs crush any 44 stuff you can find. if you were complaining about toy 8" r&p's you might have a claim.


You will be surprised when you put it on a scale. There is a dime sized piece of darkmatter located somewhere just over the t-case. I have not been able to find it, but it weighs 1000lb.

i thought that what appeared to be aluminum transmission and transfer cases were either lead or tungsten.

Were the AEU2522s more robust than the "standard" Rovers CVs?

How did the AllMakes measure up against the OEM?
I just got a pair of the AllMakes as either spares, or replacements for my new front axle in the even the ones in there now are rusty, worn or otherwise questionable.

I know I don't run huge tires (and of course, the fact that I haven't been wheeling in years-boy do axles last long if you never take the truck out of the barn) and that's probably why I haven't broken anything inside the axles yet, but I'm terrified of not being able to make it out the trailer when I'm a couple miles in.

I'm willing to pay the penalty of weight and ground clearance in exchange for more strength (nearly bombproof in my application, I'd think) and dirt cheap replacement parts (D60).

The 2522 advantage was mostly that it used a 23 coarse spline axle shaft (compared with the what 32 spline? very fine spline stock shaft). The stock shaft failures were many times attributed to the fine splines shaving off of the inner axle.

The CV itself on the 2522 was somewhat more robust than the stocker.

The allmakes broke as easily as the oems - i saw no advantage to either except for price - I was buying allmakes for like 100 bucks a piece, compared with over 300 for the oem's at that time.

It honestly is all moot at this point though. The toy stuff is proven very reliable and strong if your married to the rover housings. If you want to be done polishing turds, move on to something bigger (and cheaper than polishing turds). 44's are not an upgrade - your throwing money away.

I find arguments from rover folks that going with 60's or 9" housings adds weight or reduces under axle clearance comical. Run the big stuff, put one inch bigger tires on it, grind the extra meat off the bottom of the diff - and run it. And the weight issue - if your concerned about weight, the rover brand is the wrong vehicle to be fixing up. Get a toy mini truck and run 40's on it, or a stretched sami on 37's.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

Do these with his^^^ axels and you'll be way more than strong enough. I've been wheeling these with 37" creepies for the past 12 months of wheeling at least twice a month. Could not be happier.

I've seen toyota axles with longs wheeling places where the only way you could get a 44 there would be to drop it from a plane.

That said, most 44's are under heavy jeeps and most toyota's have squirrel engines.



:laughing::laughing::laughing:

How do the Ascroft-CVs compare to all mentioned ?
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_53.html

I generally see their halfshafts in good reputation. So if the CVs behave the same they could be an option. This, I have to add, is from my somewhat standard-point-of-view. For me 33" tyres will be the limit, so my "demand" in CVs is far from yours with 39" and taller. Still, couldn´t the Ascrofts´ easily compare to D44s ? I think, they have to test-rig print-out on their web page. Should make an objective comparison an easy thing.

It honestly is all moot at this point though. The toy stuff is proven very reliable and strong if your married to the rover housings. If you want to be done polishing turds, move on to something bigger (and cheaper than polishing turds). 44's are not an upgrade - your throwing money away.

I find arguments from rover folks that going with 60's or 9" housings adds weight or reduces under axle clearance comical. Run the big stuff, put one inch bigger tires on it, grind the extra meat off the bottom of the diff - and run it. And the weight issue - if your concerned about weight, the rover brand is the wrong vehicle to be fixing up. Get a toy mini truck and run 40's on it, or a stretched sami on 37's.

I have a 60 in back and am on the fence about the front. For what I paid for the Salisburys and the "one-ton" fronts, I can run this setup for cheap.

I have a 60 in back and am on the fence about the front. For what I paid for the Salisburys and the "one-ton" fronts, I can run this setup for cheap.

Run the Sals front with the toy swap on the outers. Good up to 40's most likely.

How do the Ascroft-CVs compare to all mentioned ?
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_53.html

I generally see their halfshafts in good reputation. So if the CVs behave the same they could be an option. This, I have to add, is from my somewhat standard-point-of-view. For me 33" tyres will be the limit, so my "demand" in CVs is far from yours with 39" and taller. Still, couldn´t the Ascrofts´ easily compare to D44s ? I think, they have to test-rig print-out on their web page. Should make an objective comparison an easy thing.

amongst the challenge guys in europe and oz running landrover stuff - its seen as the only thing to have if you run stock rover housings.
Good for some significant sized rubber and/or horsepower.
rear shafts fail at around 7500ft/lbs instead of 3000
fronts fail at 6200ft/lbs instead of 3500
elasticity and twisting abilities are also about twice what a standard shaft can take before failure too.
CV joints are built to be stronger than the shafts.

No idea how that equates to D44 or toyota stuff, but certainly a viable option for you septics with the exchange rate being what it is. Mucho cheapness for UK sourced stuff at the moment.

amongst the challenge guys in europe and oz running landrover stuff - its seen as the only thing to have if you run stock rover housings.
Good for some significant sized rubber and/or horsepower.
rear shafts fail at around 7500ft/lbs instead of 3000
fronts fail at 6200ft/lbs instead of 3500
elasticity and twisting abilities are also about twice what a standard shaft can take before failure too.
CV joints are built to be stronger than the shafts.

No idea how that equates to D44 or toyota stuff, but certainly a viable option for you septics with the exchange rate being what it is. Mucho cheapness for UK sourced stuff at the moment.

Most guys here in Oz that comp Rovers have done Nissan conversions using GU diffs - Front is 9.25" and rear is 10.25". This can be done far, far, far, far, far cheaper than getting a 2nd mortgage to afford Ashcroft stuff and still have the suspect Rover CW+P. I really can't think of anyone here that comps and does it successfully using Ashcroft gear.

As FrankenRover said, if you're in lurv with the Rover housings, then go with a Toy conversion. If you have D60 stuff sitting there, then throw them under and spend some coin on alloy shafts. Then wheel the farkin piss out of it.

Most guys here in Oz that comp Rovers have done Nissan conversions using GU diffs - Front is 9.25" and rear is 10.25". This can be done far, far, far, far, far cheaper than getting a 2nd mortgage to afford Ashcroft stuff and still have the suspect Rover CW+P. I really can't think of anyone here that comps and does it successfully using Ashcroft gear.

As FrankenRover said, if you're in lurv with the Rover housings, then go with a Toy conversion. If you have D60 stuff sitting there, then throw them under and spend some coin on alloy shafts. Then wheel the farkin piss out of it.

I am broke, so no ashcroft stuff for me, Gonna take everyones advice and get longfields, ARB up front, and aussie locker rear, going to the breakers for some Toy diffs tomorrow. I sold the 60 today so now I have some pennies for shafts and longs. Then i am gonna wheel the farkin piss out of it!

You made me curious about the Longfields. Have had a quick look on Keith´s website, but it says they are out of stock.
http://www.rovertracks.com/products/axles.html
(needs to be for Rover axles and diffs).

as far as AEU2522 go, i believe the allmakes tend to break shafts more and the OEM explode bells more......

regarding getting them heatreated???? i thought that stock oem 2522's broke at 4000ftlb.........moot point none the less, as its the ability to take shock loads that is important.

the weight factor definitly comes into play if you want to go fast......think of a light axle and a heavy axle traveling up and down many times at speed over bumps, holes and woops.......lightness is your friend

Serg

You made me curious about the Longfields. Have had a quick look on Keith´s website, but it says they are out of stock.
http://www.rovertracks.com/products/axles.html
(needs to be for Rover axles and diffs).


The ones we are referring to is with the Toyota conversion done in the stock Rover housings.

The ones we are referring to is with the Toyota conversion done in the stock Rover housings.

Look at Kieth's website under driveline...
http://www.rovertracks.com/products/driveline.html