So there isnt a thread with a good compilation of just suspension setups pictures etc.

Im linking my rrc with dana 44s at the moment and could use some more motivation!

Post up any underside, close ups, flexing, building pictures etc.


dunno why my old account got disabled.

It takes some serious motivation to link up a set of Dana axles. I did it once under a CJ-5 and will never do it again!

im looking forward to getting started, i just need to order my johnny joints and go pick up some dom before i get started, not nearly as much info on linking a rover as there is for a jeep.

Not nearly as much room under a Rover!

I am a Rookie at Rovers myself and my first look under my Rover was that you would have to relocate the cats and the exhaust to make way for the upper links. The Safarigard system works well however I dont really care for its design. I think it was the only option for them to make a bolt on kit.

I found some picts of my front three-link and rear triangulated four-link if you're interested. My original build-thread lost all of its pictures when Monty Picts crashed last year.:mad3:

Lemme know if you are interested and I can post some for you.

Here is a link of my build...Nissan axles, coilovers,4 link.... the lot.should get you started.:D m
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25034&st=0

Where's Adam Way when we need him?

He had some nice pics of his trhee-linked D44 setup on his website but I don't know if they're still around.

I found some picts of my front three-link and rear triangulated four-link if you're interested. My original build-thread lost all of its pictures when Monty Picts crashed last year.:mad3:

Lemme know if you are interested and I can post some for you.

yes very interested!:D

Where's Adam Way when we need him?

He had some nice pics of his trhee-linked D44 setup on his website but I don't know if they're still around.

let me know if you find them, definetly like to see that.

of course ill have a build thread when i get going here within the next month.

for the front im just building Y bars and a panhard, for the rear just a 3 link unless someone can convince me other wise. was going with johnnys all the way around but found trailgears creeper joints to be cheaper and have 10* more movement so ill give them a shot.

Some pics from my 100" build.m
http://up.picr.de/3093087.jpg

http://up.picr.de/3093088.jpg

http://up.picr.de/3093089.jpg

Some pics from my 100" build.m


i looked through your thread, looks great! but when i click on the pictures they get enormous so i cant really see whats going on.

The pics should get to normal size when downloaded. otherwise let me know, what pics you would like to see and I will post them here.regards m

this is the german/swiss truck that came downunder to do the outback challenge? where is it now? what challenges did you do down here bud? sorted the bugs?

aren't you running patrol diffs?

Yes, the truck runs Nissan Y61 diffs. We did one Engel, but rolled. the truck is in VIC and hopefully work allows me more time to race in 2010.m

All links are 2" OD w/ .5" wall w/ rebuildable heims on the axle ends and poly bushings on the chassis ends. All chassis mounting areas were plated w/ .25" plate and all pass-thru holes were sleeved w/ heavy-wall 1" tubing w/ .25" wall thcikness.

OK, first the front set-up:

Front upper looking forward:
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255792860_052_52.jpg

Front upper link looking back to frame mount on inside of pass side of chasssis where exhaust used to run. Now you know why I had to make my own fender-well headers - no room left after link and d-shaft.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255792937_053_53.jpg

Front upper looking rearward showing mount on top of axle. Don't worry, all of my axle mounting points will be gusseted and braced.:p
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255792969_054_54.jpg

Front lower showing chassis mounting bracket. Body mount will be rebuilt and braced to clear link.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793011_055_55.jpg

Front lower looking back w/ better veiw of why body mount had to be notched. All these shots were taken at full droop.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793046_056_56.jpg

Now the rear setup. When I first showed these, there were some concerned that the heim would not live long in its position on top of the rear axle. I may rotate it 90 degrees and make some brackets so it is oriented just like the mount on the front upper on the axle.

Rear upper link. Again, chassis mounts will be poly bushes and axle ends receive heims - all axle brackets to receive additional bracing and gussets.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793126_058_58.jpg

Rear upper link to crossmember mounting.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793171_059_59.jpg

View showing mount to top of rear axle.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793208_062_62.jpg

Another of the upper mount showing double-shear mounting.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793085_057_57.jpg

Last shot of rear.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793254_061_61.jpg

Finally, shot showing old ride height. I have since replaced factory spring perches w/ Ballistic Fab adjustable units so rig will sit 3"-4" lower than in this pict.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2009-10-17/1255793341_060_60.jpg

thanks so much for those pictures Greg! they help a ton, how is that front 3 links working out for you? im debeting that or the Y bars. How has that rear heim held up in that position?

The orientation of the rear center-link heim does not matter, if anything it's stronger laying flat than vertical. Reason being that the only significant loads it will see are side-loading from keeping the axle centered.

The orientation of the rear center-link heim does not matter, if anything it's stronger laying flat than vertical. Reason being that the only significant loads it will see are side-loading from keeping the axle centered.

It doesn't matter right up untill the ball pops out of it. :laughing:

Thats the right way now. Up and down load is not nearly as significant.

It doesn't matter right up untill the ball pops out of it. :laughing:

Thats the right way now. Up and down load is not nearly as significant.

well thats good to know.

The 44s i have are both passanger offset (from a wagoneer), everyone tells me go 1 ton but i want to keep the price down and definetly keep an offset dif in the rear(offset rear 60 is spendy) and im confident they will hold up fine with new joints and shafts and some trussing. they are 58" wms to wms and i belive the rover is 62", i should be fine tho as far as them being wide enough correct? im planning on having to truss over the dif for a coil and link mount anyways.

well thats good to know.

The 44s i have are both passanger offset (from a wagoneer), everyone tells me go 1 ton but i want to keep the price down and definetly keep an offset dif in the rear(offset rear 60 is spendy) and im confident they will hold up fine with new joints and shafts and some trussing. they are 58" wms to wms and i belive the rover is 62", i should be fine tho as far as them being wide enough correct? im planning on having to truss over the dif for a coil and link mount anyways.

What rig are they going in, what weight, what size tire, what motor?

Eh, skrew it. I'm going to tell you to go 1 ton anyway. :flipoff2:

just like everyone tells me :flipoff2:


89 range, lt230 swap, 3.9, looking to run 37s at the biggest, whole truck is stock so far so i havent removed any weight or added any.

The orientation of the rear center-link heim does not matter, if anything it's stronger laying flat than vertical. Reason being that the only significant loads it will see are side-loading from keeping the axle centered.

Does it have enough motion to cope with axle articulation in each direction? Sterling did his one that way and every photo showed it twisted.

I would never load a threaded shank in bending. Doesn't matter what size it is.

Does it have enough motion to cope with axle articulation in each direction? Sterling did his one that way and every photo showed it twisted.

I would never load a threaded shank in bending. Doesn't matter what size it is.

i agree, and i am just going to use the creeper joints anyways, i think they will suit the application much better.

Does it have enough motion to cope with axle articulation in each direction? Sterling did his one that way and every photo showed it twisted.

I would never load a threaded shank in bending. Doesn't matter what size it is.

I went through a bit to keep the rover link as I feel/felt the exact same way you did about this method. I am still glad I did. That said, Jeff Norton of Norton racing rebuilt is rear suspension using the same method you see in the pics above. He is not a huge name, but he built a badass car and beat it for years. It worked flawlessly. So while on paper I agree with you, in practice, it seems to work just fine.

Now the rear setup. When I first showed these, there were some concerned that the heim would not live long in its position on top of the rear axle. I may rotate it 90 degrees and make some brackets so it is oriented just like the mount on the front upper on the axle.

That heim won't ever really see much loading. the springs are supporting the weight of the vehicle, the heim mostly sees compression and tension as you brake and accelerate and the axle tries to twist. Just think about how the axle would behave if the top link weren't there...

thanks so much for those pictures Greg! they help a ton, how is that front 3 links working out for you? im debeting that or the Y bars. How has that rear heim held up in that position?

They're holding up great - considering it hasn't made it out of the garage yet!:mad3:

Does it have enough motion to cope with axle articulation in each direction? Sterling did his one that way and every photo showed it twisted.

I would never load a threaded shank in bending. Doesn't matter what size it is.

The misalinments are going to let it articulate the exact same amount whether the heim is vertical or horizontal, only thing it mite limit is vertical travel. On one of the trucks I prep, the horizontal heim binds after 47" of vertical wheel travel, and I'm going to go ahead and assume nobody will ever attempt to cycle that much travel on a Rover.

Buck is right though, most people assume the vertical load on a horizontal heim will pop the ball out, when in fact the side-loading from keeping the axle centered is far, far greater. I've never seen a ball pop out on a 1.25" heim with a vertical heim on a 3-link, but I suppose it is possible, just never seen it first hand.

The misalinments are going to let it articulate the exact same amount whether the heim is vertical or horizontal, only thing it mite limit is vertical travel. On one of the trucks I prep, the horizontal heim binds after 47" of vertical wheel travel, and I'm going to go ahead and assume nobody will ever attempt to cycle that much travel on a Rover.

Buck is right though, most people assume the vertical load on a horizontal heim will pop the ball out, when in fact the side-loading from keeping the axle centered is far, far greater. I've never seen a ball pop out on a 1.25" heim with a vertical heim on a 3-link, but I suppose it is possible, just never seen it first hand.

I wasn't referring to the orientation of the heim being unsuitable, I was referring to the heim itself being unsuitable. Especially being mounted by a threaded shank which is loaded in bending.

How many degrees of misalignment can a heim give? My catalogues (mostly smaller sizes) start at 30 deg and drop closer to 20 deg as they get bigger. That appears to be total angle (i.e 30 deg = +/-15 deg).
15 deg on a 1.8m wide axle gives you .47m, 18 inches of articulation.

Doesnt matter how you mount them, Heims Suck! there are so many better products out there... Johnny joints, Creeper joints,etc...anything but a Heim.

Actually, they are Johnny Joints, not heims.

Doesnt matter how you mount them, Heims Suck! there are so many better products out there... Johnny joints, Creeper joints,etc...anything but a Heim.

:D glad i am making the choice to use johnnys or creepers

Doesnt matter how you mount them, Heims Suck! there are so many better products out there... Johnny joints, Creeper joints,etc...anything but a Heim.

This is total bullshit. Total.

No offense. :flipoff2:

This is total bullshit. Total.

No offense. :flipoff2:

X2, and let the pissing match commence. Shitty heims are, well, shitty, good heims and shitty heims are not the same, also keep in mind that price and heim quality aren't totally related. Expensive heims can sucks and cheap heims can last forever.

Just went out to the garage and measured a 1.25" heim with misalignments for a 3/4" bolt- 2.625" spread, 32.7* of movement each direction. So figure on strapping it somewhere around 30* each direction, assuming you didn't have bind somewhere else in the suspension first. If you ran a smaller bolt you could get more range of motion, I'll measure again with the 5/8" bore spacers that should be showing up tomorrow.

doesnt matter how you mount them, heims suck! There are so many better products out there... Johnny joints, creeper joints,etc...anything but a heim.

x3...

Where's Adam Way when we need him?

He had some nice pics of his trhee-linked D44 setup on his website but I don't know if they're still around.

That 44 with ARB is under Pomponio's rig now. Along with a 60 rear with Detroit.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/greenramp/pomps.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/greenramp/pomps1.jpg

This is total bullshit. Total.

No offense. :flipoff2:

x4 Johnny joints and creeper joints are nothing more than a rubberized version of the hiem. They where made originally for street rod guys to minimize noise on the road. The rear 1.125 hiem I originally put on my truck is going on the buggy now. Ran it hard at the Hammers for a couple of years and it is still like new.


http://sterlingrovers.com/gallery/albums/album05/cam_dump_204.sized.jpg
http://sterlingrovers.com/gallery/albums/album07/my_truck_003.sized.jpg
http://sterlingrovers.com/gallery/albums/album07/my_truck_005.sized.jpg

That 44 with ARB is under Pomponio's rig now. Along with a 60 rear with Detroit.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/greenramp/pomps.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/greenramp/pomps1.jpg

Any more pictures of this truck, possibly taken with a real camera?

This is total bullshit. Total.

No offense. :flipoff2:

You live in San Diego, we have this thing in the rest of the world called precipitation... snow, rain, sleet, hail. Causes mud to form,road salt to be spread on icy roads,etc. What works in the californian desert doesnt necessarily work here in boreal Soviet Canuckistan. If joints are not waterproofed and greased they will die within a month of winter wheeling.

I ran them on two j$$ps and d90 in Syracuse, NY...wash shit off the truck once a week...cheap shit heims will self-destruct in that shit, but a QA-1, with a little preventative care will last just as long as a TRE and johnny joints...

You live in San Diego, we have this thing in the rest of the world called precipitation... snow, rain, sleet, hail. Causes mud to form,road salt to be spread on icy roads,etc. What works in the californian desert doesnt necessarily work here in boreal Soviet Canuckistan. If joints are not waterproofed and greased they will die within a month of winter wheeling.

Okay.

But I do have one question. A JJ is just a hiem joint, with plastic around it instead of metal. The sides are still open to the ball. And they are much looser than a hiem. You can only get them so tight. So, other than grease, they are open to the elements even more than a hiem. I think at least. The grease is double edge sword. Out here, exposed grease fills with sand and becomes almost a paist. So why would a JJ last any longer than a big, quality hiem?

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/greenramp/pomps.jpg



Wow ... how on earth would a driver or passenger manage to climb into that RangeRover ... :) ??

I´m reasobly tall but my RRC just is 4" higher altogether and the driver´s seat base suffers from sliding in and out over it ! :) !!

Okay.

But I do have one question. A JJ is just a hiem joint, with plastic around it instead of metal. The sides are still open to the ball. And they are much looser than a hiem. You can only get them so tight. So, other than grease, they are open to the elements even more than a hiem. I think at least. The grease is double edge sword. Out here, exposed grease fills with sand and becomes almost a paist. So why would a JJ last any longer than a big, quality hiem?

plastic seems to rub the surface corrosion off the steel ball, constantly polishing it during movement, the steel on steel of a heim corrodes and grinds much faster. I dont know why or how, but every Heim I have ever used or seen used in a salty muddy winter environment was ruined within months. The only people I hear saying Heims work well live in relatively Dry climates. there must be a reason stock ball joints and rod ends are sealed with rubber boots.

there must be a reason stock ball joints and rod ends are sealed with rubber boots.

Ding, ding, ding. We have a winner.:smokin:

plastic seems to rub the surface corrosion off the steel ball, constantly polishing it during movement, the steel on steel of a heim corrodes and grinds much faster. I dont know why or how, but every Heim I have ever used or seen used in a salty muddy winter environment was ruined within months. The only people I hear saying Heims work well live in relatively Dry climates. there must be a reason stock ball joints and rod ends are sealed with rubber boots.

Ever use a high end 1.25 hiem? Or are you going by your experience with 3/4 hiems? I have seen tons of east coast builds using heims.

It just doesn't make sense at all that plastic will polish it more. Plastic degrades faster, allowing in more contaminates. Or at least logic dictates that to happen.

Good heims are not steel on steel, they're steel with either a nylon or Teflon liner, you the "polishing" theory holds true either way. The only advantage of a JJ or Ballistic joint is that they're rebuildable and usually really cheap because of how they're manufactured, other than that they're pretty sloppy and wear out much faster than a good heim will. If you want to believe that a JJ is constantly polished and thus holds up better than a heim, that's cool with me, but consider this, no adjustable joint is near as tight as a heim, so why would they "polish" themselves better (think worn out wiper-blades vs. a fresh one).

Stock ball joints and TREs have boots because they don't have a nylon or Teflon liner, they're metal on metal and thus need tons of grease, the boot holds the grease in. Even in a dry climate if you rip the boot the TRE is junk in a couple days. Cone makes uber-bling ball joints that are designed to be used on Class1 cars and Trophy Trucks, no boots on them at all, they just use a teflon liner.

I really have not seen anywhere close to the bitching about heims from any other segment of the offroad world as I have from Rover people. If salty winter roads were really killing heims at the rate some people report, they would also be killing shock shafts, don't hear much about that though.

Good heims are not steel on steel, they're steel with either a nylon or Teflon liner, you the "polishing" theory holds true either way. The only advantage of a JJ or Ballistic joint is that they're rebuildable and usually really cheap because of how they're manufactured, other than that they're pretty sloppy and wear out much faster than a good heim will. If you want to believe that a JJ is constantly polished and thus holds up better than a heim, that's cool with me, but consider this, no adjustable joint is near as tight as a heim, so why would they "polish" themselves better (think worn out wiper-blades vs. a fresh one).

Stock ball joints and TREs have boots because they don't have a nylon or Teflon liner, they're metal on metal and thus need tons of grease, the boot holds the grease in. Even in a dry climate if you rip the boot the TRE is junk in a couple days. Cone makes uber-bling ball joints that are designed to be used on Class1 cars and Trophy Trucks, no boots on them at all, they just use a teflon liner.

I really have not seen anywhere close to the bitching about heims from any other segment of the offroad world as I have from Rover people. If salty winter roads were really killing heims at the rate some people report, they would also be killing shock shafts, don't hear much about that though.

I use toyota FJ-80 TREs for steering duty, spring loaded plastic bushings on the steel ball and 23mm shanks. And I dont care what anyone outside Quebec says about salty roads, No one any where on earth uses as much road salt as Quebec’s Ministry of Transport. Environmental groups hound the Government because it ruins rivers, Garages make a killing with undercoating. ever seen a 3 year old Chevy silverado with rusted out bedsides and rocker panels, I have, and it wasnt in Vermont or Ontario. And yes I have seen shocks and steering dampers fail because of rusted shafts. Come and drive your Rover through one Quebec winter and you will understand.

I use toyota FJ-80 TREs for steering duty, spring loaded plastic bushings on the steel ball and 23mm shanks. And I dont care what anyone outside Quebec says about salty roads, No one any where on earth uses as much road salt as Quebec’s Ministry of Transport. Environmental groups hound the Government because it ruins rivers, Garages make a killing with undercoating. ever seen a 3 year old Chevy silverado with rusted out bedsides and rocker panels, I have, and it wasnt in Vermont or Ontario. And yes I have seen shocks and steering dampers fail because of rusted shafts. Come and drive your Rover through one Quebec winter and you will understand.

I'll dispute this...Try NYS DOT, and Syracuse DPW, in Onondaga County and Syracuse they use on average 50,000 TONS of ROAD SALT each winter...Don't know about you, but I would wash the undercarriage once or twice a month (sometimes more if it wasn't below zero). Yes shock shafts, driveshafts, brake calipers...all rust away in a couple of years...but it happens in places other than Canada

BigBlueToy....., don't you spray the whole underside of your rig with that oil/ATF/WTF? stuff that every other canuck uses? Besides, do a search man, use a quality heim, and they make a rubber boot for the damn things now, and you're all set. Quit pitching that "harsh weather" crap, you big Sally.:D
Maybe you should move to Ca. , you must have too much salt in your vagina.:flipoff2:

Good heims are not steel on steel, they're steel with either a nylon or Teflon liner, you the "polishing" theory holds true either way.


The only advantage of a JJ or Ballistic joint is that they're rebuildable and usually really cheap because of how they're manufactured, other than that they're pretty sloppy and wear out much faster than a good heim will. Those two statements are at direct odds with each other. My experience has been mostly with Rubicon Express joints but the basic design is pretty similar on most.

If you say that teflon lined heims are superior to ball joints (and I agree) then how can you say a JJ style heim is inferior?

A JJ is basically an adjustable heim on steroids. You have a far larger mating surface area made of either teflon or delrin so it will wear better and be stronger.
Then, as it does eventually wear, you just retighten the delrin to the ball and it's good as new.

Where's the negative?

If you say that teflon lined heims are superior to ball joints (and I agree) then how can you say a JJ style heim is inferior?

A JJ is basically an adjustable heim on steroids. You have a far larger mating surface area made of either teflon or delrin so it will wear better and be stronger.
Then, as it does eventually wear, you just retighten the delrin to the ball and it's good as new.

Where's the negative?


I don't see how my statements are at odds at all, "normal" heims and JJs may be similar, but they're not the same thing. They reason they're inferior to a normal heim IMO is that they are never as tight, and that little extra slop makes them wear out much, much faster, never had one last as long as a traditional heim in any application. The races are also very small bits of nytralon or urethane, nytralon works great and lasts when you have a big bushing like you'd find on an IFS A-arm, but not as a dinky little race in a JJ, urethane is worse when it's that small. I also don't see how they're like a heim on steroids, I just don't see the extra beef, sure they're beefier if you compare them to a 3/4" heim, but compared to a 1.25" heim, no difference in beef.

It is nice that they're rebuildable, but with how often they need rebuilding, I don't see the cost savings, and if a bushing fails on the trail, you either have to take your suspension apart and fix it right there, or you'll likely need a new joint anyway.

Use whatever you feel comfortable with, I'm going to stick with "normal" heims.

I don't see how my statements are at odds at all, "normal" heims and JJs may be similar, but they're not the same thing. They reason they're inferior to a normal heim IMO is that they are never as tight, and that little extra slop makes them wear out much, much faster, never had one last as long as a traditional heim in any application. The races are also very small bits of nytralon or urethane, nytralon works great and lasts when you have a big bushing like you'd find on an IFS A-arm, but not as a dinky little race in a JJ, urethane is worse when it's that small. I also don't see how they're like a heim on steroids, I just don't see the extra beef, sure they're beefier if you compare them to a 3/4" heim, but compared to a 1.25" heim, no difference in beef.

It is nice that they're rebuildable, but with how often they need rebuilding, I don't see the cost savings, and if a bushing fails on the trail, you either have to take your suspension apart and fix it right there, or you'll likely need a new joint anyway.

Use whatever you feel comfortable with, I'm going to stick with "normal" heims.I'm not saying they're the same, I'm saying they have the same strong points as heims plus some.

No difference in beef? I suppose if you're comparing an 1.25" heim to a 5/8" JJ the beef would be similar.
If you go apples to apples; not even close.

"Dinky little races"? The races on a JJ are so much larger than that of a heim.
Here is a set of races from a small 9/16" RE superflex joint.
Over 1/2" of material.

I agree that rebuildability is a small advantage; simply because I can't imagine ever wearing one of these out.

478974

As for tightness, They're as tight as you want to make them.
Put the spanner wrench on and tighten to your hearts content.
Make them unmovable if you so desire.

That adjustability, along with the far greater surface area of the ball/race assy is the reason I feel they are such an improvement on the standard heim.

Yer just bragging cause you have bigger balls in your JJ!

I'm not saying they're the same, I'm saying they have the same strong points as heims plus some.

No difference in beef? I suppose if you're comparing an 1.25" heim to a 5/8" JJ the beef would be similar.
If you go apples to apples; not even close.

"Dinky little races"? The races on a JJ are so much larger than that of a heim.
Here is a set of races from a small 9/16" RE superflex joint.
Over 1/2" of material.

I agree that rebuildability is a small advantage; simply because I can't imagine ever wearing one of these out.

478974

As for tightness, They're as tight as you want to make them.
Put the spanner wrench on and tighten to your hearts content.
Make them unmovable if you so desire.

That adjustability, along with the far greater surface area of the ball/race assy is the reason I feel they are such an improvement on the standard heim.

I am not really looking to disagree with you as I think you made some good points. However, having owned both, and ran both, I think the hiem is still the best option by a little bit. On the JJ that I have owned you can't tighten them past a cirtain point as they are keyed for a stop. That makes them more suseptable to junk getting in the ball, which then accelerates wear. I have had to replace (rebuild) JJ faster than hiems. That said, I still went with JJ this last time around for the smaller body.

I am not really looking to disagree with you as I think you made some good points. However, having owned both, and ran both, I think the hiem is still the best option by a little bit. On the JJ that I have owned you can't tighten them past a cirtain point as they are keyed for a stop. That makes them more suseptable to junk getting in the ball, which then accelerates wear. I have had to replace (rebuild) JJ faster than hiems. That said, I still went with JJ this last time around for the smaller body.I can see that being a problem.
The RE joints are threaded far enough in that I think the races would have to be completely gone before you run out of adjustment.
What kind have you used?
I wonder why they limit the adjustment.

I can see that being a problem.
The RE joints are threaded far enough in that I think the races would have to be completely gone before you run out of adjustment.
What kind have you used?
I wonder why they limit the adjustment.

It's not limited adjustment, just that the "stop" key has slots that it screws into on the adjustment collar. So you have to tighten in increments. Right now the joints I have are looser than I would like them because I can't get them to go to the next notch.

I have these now, had some other brand before.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Chromoly-263quot-Ballistic-Joint_p_1636.html#

I think they are both good options, but I tend to lean toword the hiem. That said, I have 6 JJ and 2 hiems in my links. :laughing:

It's not limited adjustment, just that the "stop" key has slots that it screws into on the adjustment collar. So you have to tighten in increments. Right now the joints I have are looser than I would like them because I can't get them to go to the next notch.

I have these now, had some other brand before.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Chromoly-263quot-Ballistic-Joint_p_1636.html#

I think they are both good options, but I tend to lean toword the hiem. That said, I have 6 JJ and 2 hiems in my links. :laughing:The RE ones are basically the same. I just tighten the crap out of them with a pin spanner wrench till there is no movement at all.
The delrin has enough give to get to the next groove after it's nice and tight.
I designed the mount to allow this adjustment without removing the link:
479504
Well, I think we can hand this thread back to the OP.
Sorry for the hijack.

The RE ones are basically the same. I just tighten the crap out of them with a pin spanner wrench till there is no movement at all.
The delrin has enough give to get to the next groove after it's nice and tight.
I designed the mount to allow this adjustment without removing the link:
479504
Well, I think we can hand this thread back to the OP.
Sorry for the hijack.

all good information, still want to see underside pictures of everyones suspension setups.:D

mines a little too stock to bother taking pics of. Rear springs up front, 3’’ blocks under springs in rear. 10 inch cheapie shocks up front, 14 inch procomp shocks up front. Made some custom off set RA bushings to regain some Caster currently making some cranked trailing arms for the rear. looking into some of those Xeng telescoping springs for the rear. Gonna make a swiveling mount for my rear balljoint when I put my Salisbury in this winter. And a center mounted rear limiting strap. Stock springs work quite well need better shocks though!