Now my digicam even on the lowest resolution pics takes pics that are about 150kb so I have to do some cropping because I am a novice and don't know how to make the computer change resolution so that the data volume is under 90000 bytes and yet still has the entire pic. Anyone with an easy way to do that is welcome to advise me. This worked in testing so here goes. Just finished it on Friday. Tell me what you think. Hard top still fits perfectly for winter.http://C:\Documents and Settings\Michael Lockwood\My Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\rollbar pics.05\rollbar2_0007crop2.jpg

Anotherhttp://C:\Documents and Settings\Michael Lockwood\My Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\rollbar pics.05\rollbar2_0008crop2.jpg

And one morehttp://C:\Documents and Settings\Michael Lockwood\My Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\rollbar pics.05\rollbar2_0006crop2.jpg

I like it! The double tube behind the front seats is a neat touch, nice and different.

If only the frame were as strong as the body now is :flipoff2:

I saw a guy just about pull off the front of a blazer on sunday, spread the drivers side frame rail about 3 inches apart just behind the crossmember near engine mounts. The steering shaft seperated, hood got tweaked and wouldnt open, then the guy was so panicked he left his lights on and just about killed his battery :rolleyes: . Makes me wish I had 3/4ton or 1 ton.


Charlo

Nice clean work!!!:p

Very nice! did you bend it up yourself?

"SUN VISORS, I DON'T NEED NO STINK'N SUN VISORS"

Otherwise very nice. :D

Yes, I bent the tube myself with the help of one of my good friends scott. The front hoop was the only really tricky bending. The second bends down were a dual plane bend so that made it very hard to do. However, when all was done it looks like I may have wasted less then 10-12 feet of tubing on the whole project. Pretty darn good for a first cage if I might say so. We used a JD 2 bolted to my garage floor. The tubing is 2" .120 wall. I left the sunvisors in place temporarily to protect the headliner/windshield from welding berries while welding it in. The Frame is still in decent shape. The steering box is very well braced and there is no rust anywhere on the frame.

This front hoop, the second bend down had to be bent so it went both back and in, on two differing planes.http://C:\Documents and Settings\Michael Lockwood\My Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\rollbar pics.05\rollbar2_0009crop.jpg http://C:\Documents and Settings\Michael Lockwood\My Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\rollbar pics.05\rollbar2_0010crop.jpg

http://C:\Documents and Settings\Michael Lockwood\My Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\rollbar pics.05\rollbar2_0009crop.jpg

Lemme know if you want some more Cage Building Practice on a K5...mine needs one:D

Nice cage. But I think gloss black would have been better.:p

Nice cage. But I think gloss black would have been better.
Matt all the way baby.


Charlo

How did you attach it to the frame? Any pics of the floor mounts? Nice looking cage for your 1'st time......

Nice cage. I like the flat black better.

Shaker,
Currently I have not tied it to the frame, however before you jump all over me that is just because I 'finished' it friday and had to work most of this week. The pillers are welded to plates on the floor and the body is sandwiched between those plates and larger plates on the underside of the body. I plan on plating the inner and outer sides of my frame in six points and welding a piece of tubing between the body plates and then the frame plate. The frame end of that piece of tubing I will have end in a bushing similar to a control arm bushing that will have one bolt running through the bushing and then through two brackets that will be welded on the outside frame plate. This way the frame and body will have some rigidity and yet still give enough to allow for some body/frame flex. Will post picks when done.

Originally posted by 82TOYLB
Shaker,
Currently I have not tied it to the frame, however before you jump all over me that is just because I 'finished' it friday and had to work most of this week. The pillers are welded to plates on the floor and the body is sandwiched between those plates and larger plates on the underside of the body. I plan on plating the inner and outer sides of my frame in six points and welding a piece of tubing between the body plates and then the frame plate. The frame end of that piece of tubing I will have end in a bushing similar to a control arm bushing that will have one bolt running through the bushing and then through two brackets that will be welded on the outside frame plate. This way the frame and body will have some rigidity and yet still give enough to allow for some body/frame flex. Will post picks when done.

I'm not gonna jump on you....I was wondering how you did or gonna tie it to the frame. I got a 83 fullsize blazer and I'm gonna cage it here soon....wanted to see how you tied it in. I plan on doing the "sandwich" mounts also....seems easier...:D

Sounds like stock Toyota front axle torque rods cut in half would work fine for the bushings.

Makes me wish I had 3/4ton or 1 ton.

Better shoot for the one ton, cause the 3/4 ton frame is the exact same as a half ton frame....in trucks that is, not sure about the 1/2 ton blazer, but since they didn't make anything but a 1/2 ton blazer, I'd say the frame should be the same as a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck just shorter.

10-4,
Justin

a 1/2 ton blazer, I'd say the frame should be the same as a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck just shorter.

Blazer frames are smaller guage than 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck frames.
They are also different and not just shortened version..
Take it easy.
-- Mike