Build threads that drag on forever irritate me, so I swore I would get this out wheeling before I started one. It is certainly not done yet, but I have a couple of trips on it now, so here goes.

Pictures first; a little before and after

early days:

February 06, Mormon Emigrant Trail
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3217.jpg

March 06, Reno hills
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3308.jpg

over the last few years:

August 06, Rubicon
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP4012.jpg

May 07, Moonrocks
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/contrastfixed.jpg
August 08, Barrett Lake
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/BarrettLake9.jpg

and now to where this stage of the build will lead us:

August 09, shake down run
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4561.jpg

don’t mind the E-brake cable poking me in the receiver
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CappsCrossingcropped.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4605.jpg

the only (short, poor quality) video I have
YouTube - Capps Crossing AUG 09 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76PXcyqvMws)

September 09, Barrett Lake
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/8331_143620817079_768067079_2546682.jpg

Whats the specs on your zuk? What type of suspension do you have etc?

I never really figured I would ever say this but I love how LOW your sami is :flipoff2:

Whats the belly clearance on that thing?

very cool but we need way more info, im jealous you might be lower than me

The low cog is cool.
Do you love it or sometimes want a little more body clearance?
Nice transformation.

Whats the specs on your zuk? What type of suspension do you have etc?

Lots and lots of details coming. Promise :flipoff2:

I never really figured I would ever say this but I love how LOW your sami is :flipoff2:

Whats the belly clearance on that thing?

belly in the last few pictures and video is about 16" at trail pressure (<5psi)

very cool but we need way more info, im jealous you might be lower than me

The last years worth of pictures and info is coming slowly, patience. :flipoff2:

The low cog is cool.
Do you love it or sometimes want a little more body clearance?
Nice transformation.

So far its been awesome. I don't want to say it does donuts and drifts turns without videos though :D. Once I get a full belly skid under it, I will determine if it needs to come up a little, though I wouldn't be suprised if an inch or two get added, more for up travel than anything else

you have the best looking sami I've ever seen!

Low=awesome!

I'm trying to hard to get my toyota low, and you've just motivated me even more. thank you sir.

that is so hot :smokin: I want one that low with portals

you have the best looking sami I've ever seen!

Low=awesome!

I'm trying to hard to get my toyota low, and you've just motivated me even more. thank you sir.

that is so hot :smokin: I want one that low with portals

Thanks!

104ish” WB, 3 link/panhard front, 4 link rear, conventional coil springs/shocks, Toyota minitruck axles, low and wide, moderately street-legal.

I have been building, buying, bartering and collecting parts for some time now to minimize down time. Buying everything up front wasn’t in the budget anyways. Plus, I have spent the last 2-3 years wheeling instead of pondering a rig on jack stands.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6543.jpg

I plan to reuse as much as possible to keep cost down (I am a Samurai owner). Radiator, gas tank (at least temporarily), proportioning valve and master cylinder, tail gate, hood, grill, doors, top(s), headlights, taillights, etc. Home built and used parts is the name of the game. This ain’t no comp buggy, so fuel capacity, storage/interior room, spare tire, stereo, CB, etc. are all a must

I will do my best to to keep this in chronological order, but I am sure some of it won’t be. Details, pics, part numbers and prices will be included as much as possible. It also might take me some time to document, so don’t expect everything at once :flipoff2:

Lets see if I can guess you have trail-gear four link in rear custom three in front. Those look like stock tj coils or there equivalent with 6.5 in the zuk case on a manual tranny. The flat belly is genius and the low cog you have by slamming the body should make you semi fearless. 36-38" swampers on toy axles. You used jj's for the links. I can't see an airline so maybe not arb maybe lincoln locked front and rear or ??? 4.10 gears in the diff you look like you are in the middle of the build and new ring and pinion usually comes last for most folks trying not to pay all at once for stuff. Gonna guess wb is 96to98" really hard to tell. It looks like ruff stuff weld on beadlocks. Its a great looking build you should be proud. Do you trailer or drive it?

Lets see if I can guess you have trail-gear four link in rear custom three in front.

no kit, I did the links on both ends

Those look like stock tj coils or there equivalent

yes

with 6.5 in the zuk case on a manual tranny.

close. Trail Tough 6.4's, stock motor and trans


The flat belly is genius and the low cog you have by slamming the body should make you semi fearless. 36-38" swampers on toy axles.

yep, 38.5 SXs on minitruck axles

You used jj's for the links.

correct

I can't see an airline so maybe not arb maybe lincoln locked front and rear or ??? 4.10 gears in the diff you look like you are in the middle of the build and new ring and pinion usually comes last for most folks trying not to pay all at once for stuff.


5.29's/spool/lockright
I actually bought the built axles used 3 years ago

Gonna guess wb is 96to98" really hard to tell.

104.5" wb
I put a lot of thought into keeping it proportioned, so if it looks shorter, I will take it as a compliment :D

It looks like ruff stuff weld on beadlocks.

good eye. I am pretty sure they are the only 39 bolt beadlocks out there, easy giveaway if you actually counted them


Its a great looking build you should be proud. Do you trailer or drive it?

Thanks! I am. I drive it around town some, and have driven it to the trail, but its a pain in the ass to drive it very far. I am currently flat towing it

Before I get too far ahead, a brief history:

Feb 2006
As originally purchased for $1300, bone stock with an awesome paint job. Not quite the green (er, yellow?) trim I had imagined on the phone, but I needed a car and had driven over two hours (Sacramento to Santa Cruz) to see this thing. Good running condition and pretty clean.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3154.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/contrastfixedandcropped.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3158.jpg

About 10 minutes later, hadn’t even taken it home yet.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3160.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3162.jpg

I am quite thankful for spray paint

I traded a friend some wheels and tires for complete Samurai axles/case/tranny and motor. While a lot of these parts are now gone/sold/used/broken/no longer needed, having extra everything has been priceless. I thought I had a picture of the whole extra drivetrain loaded in my Samurai, but I can’t seem to find it. Here is how to fit 4 35’s inside

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3283.jpg

A few snow runs with it stock
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3215.jpg
and within a month my buddy helped me weld my extra rear 3rd, and then I swapped them. I am a cocky MIG welder, but not so much with the stick. Welded rear is still the best bang for the buck to date.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3320.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3323.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/weldedassembledresize.jpg

Nice! You and roczuk's low rider rigs are insane, and my favorite. Love the low Sami's.

Love the stance....nice and low!

Crap I looked for the towbar attachments and didn't see anything I must be blind. Good job on regearing early my hat goes off to you on that. Any regrets so far? Things you've redone twice or more?

Nice! You and roczuk's low rider rigs are insane, and my favorite. Love the low Sami's.

Love the stance....nice and low!

Thanks guys

With the 38.5's it sits 1" taller than it did with stock spring SPOA (about a 4 1/2 " lift) and 32s. I dont have a bone stock Samurai around for to measure, but I believe the suspension sits only 1-2" over stock

Crap I looked for the towbar attachments and didn't see anything I must be blind. Good job on regearing early my hat goes off to you on that. Any regrets so far? Things you've redone twice or more?

Keep looking! Actually the pics that show the front are from before it was towed.

No real regrets so far. I had a few draw backs, as I made all most all the suspension brackets before hand, but I was completely expecting that to happen. I think the only thing I actually had to completely redo was the ram mount, no big deal

March 06
The passenger door got swipped, I got a pair of doors for $80 and an $1100 check from insurance. Trail Tough 6.4:1’s, Mighty Kong and Gorrilla Grips ordered the day I got the check. I rebuilt/regeared my extra case, although not before learning why the directions say you must remove the speedo gear :homer: A guy on here made me a good deal on another case half, and I was on my way

inputs
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3351.jpg
idlers
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3352.jpg
and reassembly
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3354.jpg

April 06
I bought a drop pitman arm from Roadless Gear and longer brake lines from Napa, and made some spring perches out of 2x2 .188. Swapped to the 6.4 case and did the spring over in the same weekend. Stock springs and shocks. <$200 total into the lift. I ran some borrowed 235’s for a week until I bought some 15x8 2.5 bs’d soft 8’s and 32/11.5 Kumho MT’s. Wheeled like this for a couple of months.

May 06 Shasta/Chappie OHV
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3441.jpg

The wheels I got from the local 4 Wheel Parts, and are Pro Comp series 97’s, and ran under $50 each. I was hoping to find a deal on some used tires, but ended up getting the Kumho’s new from Summit for $104 each. I wasn’t sure what to expect from them, but ultimately I was very impressed. I put 30k+ miles on them, and lot of rough offroad miles including several Rubicon trips. They wore very evenly, and all those street miles were with a welded rear. Didn’t chuck and they aired down well. I ran 6-7psi all day long and never lost a bead. Even accidentally ran 1-2psi and it was no problem. They still had 75% tread when I sold them. My only issue with them is they didn’t self-clean very well in the snow. Great for a lesser expensive MT

I put a lockright in my extra front 3rd, $179 from Summit, swapped them,

July 06 Prairie City

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP3569.jpg

and I basically stayed like that for the next few years.

Over time I bedlinered the tub, put a full cage in it, spray painted it OSH Tool Gray, bought a 2 piece Bestop, cut my old top into a safari top, made half doors out of the set that got hit, SoloBaric L7, Cobra 135 CB and on and on and on.


October 06 Rubicon Springs

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP4066.jpg

February 08 Wentworth Springs Rd

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/0208snowrun2.jpg

August 08

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5656.jpg

Aug 2006

I got a call from a friend about a set of Toy axles for sale. The next day I was in Reno and I was the proud owner. ’83 front, 5.29’s, lockright, Marlin (yes, Marlin) 6 stud steering arms (stock knuckles) drilled out for ¾ bolts, stock birfs, ’83 rear, 5.29’s, All Pro spool, 15x10 2.125 bs’d steelies, a V6 ’86 rear with blown up gears but good housing and shafts, an extra set of stock birfs, IFS steering box, DOM tie rod and drag link tapped w/ ¾ x ¾ heims, CV driveshaft, IFS hubs/rotors/calipers/lockouts. Package deal for $650. Good thing I had taken the passenger front seat out of the Samurai, I didn’t even know I was bringing home all the extra parts.

Early 2007

When I bought the axles, one of the steering arms was welded to the knuckle. A stock knuckle was donated by a friend, and got a single Trail Gear 6 stud arm for $100

So one Marlin 6 stud arm and one Trail Gear 6 stud arm :laughing:

Marlin
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Marlinarm.jpg

TG
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/TGarm.jpg

Obviously 6 stud arms don’t help much with the stock 4 stud knuckles, but it doesn’t hurt anything. Eventually I will upgrade to the matching knuckles

This was a good time for a basic front end rebuild, including ARP studs for the steering arms. Since it was apart I decided to shave the front drain plug with some ¼ plate, and cut off all the stock brackets. The front had a small diff guard on it when I bought it. I added to it and tied it into the plate where the drain plug used to be.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG2900.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG2903.jpg

Welded and cleaned up, did the replace the bottom two studs with bolts trick, and its hasn’t leaked a drop in the few months its had oil in it

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0122.jpg

My friend gave an extra set of knuckle ball gussets, and on they went. They are laser cut, but I am not sure who makes them. I also cut out some tiny pieces to box the stock steering stops.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0119.jpg

I had all the IFS parts too, and forked out the money for Sky’s IFS hub conversion. Cut the backing plates down, and put it all back together.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IFShubconversion.jpg

I have IFS calipers for it, and plan to get the Land Cruiser rotors to go with them. Stock brakes for now though, they seem to do fine

I decided to run the wider 86 housing I had to match the new width of the front. I never actually measured, but I believe WMS-WMS is 58” for both front and rear.

What good is shaving the front if you don’t shave the back…

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rearshave.jpg

Being cheap, I got a scrap piece of 10” S40 for free and made a diff guard to match the front.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0132.jpg

I cut all the brackets from it, and put it together with the 5.29 spooled 3rd. This one seems to be seeping a tiny bit, nothing silicone wont fix next time its apart

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0129.jpg

I picked up several sets of stock TJ fronts for cheap ($20 total). Part numbers for the 3 sets of springs are 128’s, 129’s, and 130’s. The 128’s are in the rear and the 129’s are in the front. I have searched endlessly to find the actual spring rates, but can’t 100% confirm. 120 in/lbs? 160? I know the higher the part number, the higher the rate. If somebody knows what they actually are, not just internet hearsay, I would really like to know

So I started drawing up suspension brackets. I was well aware that if I made all brackets before I cut the truck apart, that I may have to modify or redo some of them. A small price to pay for keeping the Samurai wheelable.

Axle side coil mount/lower link mounts came first, using Johnny Joint dimensions off the net. Eventually I picked up 4 JJ’s (all I could pay for at the time) from Poly Performance so I could weld together the brackets.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4585.jpg

I made 4 of these lower link axle side mounts/lower spring perch. Combining the two mounts just made sense for packaging. The perch is 3/16” and the link mount is ¼”. The centerline of the joint is about ¾” above the centerline of the axle. I did this to keep them from snagging in the rocks. Doing it over again, this is one thing I would have done a little different. No need for the offset, lining the joint and axle centerlines up would have done just fine, and my uppers could have been that much lower.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4584.jpg

3 ½ “ S40 (another freebie) fits perfect inside TJ coils, so I used it for centering the spring with the coil retainer. Having the retainer serve this double purpose also makes it easy to change spring diameters, for whatever reason I am not sure, by just changing the retainer.

Lower link frame side

Where to put these took some thought. Putting them under the frame wasn’t going to help a bit keeping it low. I decided on mounting the lowers for both front and rear outside the frame rails. For simplicity the mount for the front and rear is the same bracket.

Going together
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4428.jpg

The little triangle looking tabs sticking out are to locate the bracket with the bottom of the frame, and to give another dimension to weld. As this bracket will also be in contact with rocks, the bottom and sides are ¼”, while the top is 3/16

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4433.jpg

The only downside was going to be that the lower links would be almost parallel to the frame rails. I would have liked some more triangulation out of the lower links, but this was a compromise that had to be made. The idea is that suspension travel induces ‘rear steer’ when the lowers are basically parallel. Fortunately, this didn’t happen and there is no noticeable rear steer.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/lowerframeresize.jpg

Looks really good!

I really like the idea of running the lower link mounts beside the frame like you did. I would think keeping the links almost parallel to the frame would at least help the front end take bumps smoother since the axle wouldn't have to go forward as much to absorb a bump. not sure if I put that into words well, but the bottom line is that I think your lower link mount setup is great.

Looks really good!

What else is it supposed to look like :confused: :flipoff2:

thank you :)
I really like the idea of running the lower link mounts beside the frame like you did. I would think keeping the links almost parallel to the frame would at least help the front end take bumps smoother since the axle wouldn't have to go forward as much to absorb a bump. not sure if I put that into words well, but the bottom line is that I think your lower link mount setup is great.

I think I understand your words, but please stop me if I miss this. I may not have been clear enough before, so I will try to clarify. When I said the lower links are parallel to the frame, I should have said parallel to each other. I would have liked more triangulation of the lower links. I think what you are talking about is the links being parallel to the ground. Yes, this makes the axle move almost straight up and down, instead of 'forward into a bump'. Clear as mud? I think we are actually saying the exact same thing in different words.

Another note on the outboard mounts. The link mounts on my axles are completely outside the frame rails, as are the coil springs. Without the IFS widening kit, and the stupid 2.125 backspacing on my wheels, I dont see this link configuration working on normal Toy axles and reasonable backspacing. I do really like the setup so far though

ah, I see what you're saying now, we were thinking of different parallels. I bet without the widening kit and back spacing it could have worked if the links were bent to clear the tires, but I'm sure that would weaken them quite a bit. I'd say you done good though, that's some pretty damn low offset you're running on those wheels, does steering seem kind of weird with everything out so far from the knuckle balls like that? the sky brake spacers (as in their ifs hub conversion kit that does nothing but space the brakes) is the way to go, good choice.

I would like to see some more pics of your link mount welded to the frame. I would also like to see how you put a nut on the bolt for the JJ. Sweet build. I like how you did the build first and now you are posting.

Thanks for the great ideas

ah, I see what you're saying now, we were thinking of different parallels. I bet without the widening kit and back spacing it could have worked if the links were bent to clear the tires, but I'm sure that would weaken them quite a bit. I'd say you done good though, that's some pretty damn low offset you're running on those wheels, does steering seem kind of weird with everything out so far from the knuckle balls like that? the sky brake spacers (as in their ifs hub conversion kit that does nothing but space the brakes) is the way to go, good choice.
Skys IFS hub kit (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=127)
Its been at least a year since I have had the front apart, but I believe the brakes are in the stock location. The wheel hub is spaced out, along with it the WMS and the wheel bearings. With the 2 different wheel hubs (stock straight axle, and IFS), I am not sure how much the bearings actually get moved though.

You are right, the center line of the wheel is now way out from the steering axis. Scrub radius is huge. Parked in the garage and just steering back and forth, the tires skip and chirp all over the cement. In the real world I am not sure what this means. Driving on the road, the steering feels fine. No problems off road either. I think the argument can be made that a big scrub radius can actually help off road. Sawing the steering wheel back and forth, the tires move some front to rear and may be able to find more traction. I will get it out to the snow here in a couple of months and report back on that. No doubt it is extra load on the knuckle. Thats just the price I have to pay to play

I would also like to see how you put a nut on the bolt for the JJ.

It is easier than it seems.
1. weld nut to bracket
2. cut hole in frame for nut to pass through

Just make sure the bracket covers up the entire hole. The nut just hides inside the frame. Downside though is if I ever strip out or cross thread one of these nuts, I am not going to be a happy camper. They arent exactly serviceable. Drilling all the way through the nut and out the other side of the frame might be the only reasonable fix. I dont expect to ever have to do that though

This is my front upper going together. The hole is long because the bracket has 2 mounting holes for adjustment
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6664.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6666.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6660.jpg


Sweet build. I like how you did the build first and now you are posting.
Thanks for the great ideas
I have taken a lot of great ideas from this board, I am happy to try and give a little back :smokin:

I would like to see some more pics of your link mount welded to the frame.
Ask and you shall receive






dont feel too special, the next posts were coming anyways :flipoff2:

Rear upper axle mounts

I wanted to have some adjustability on my upper links. I made a small platform on top of the rear diff, then the mount on top of that. Here is another thing I would do a little different. I probably should have built a small-ish truss across the housing, then tied the mounts into that. I am still much lighter, and much less ft*lbs than the Toyota that this housing came from, so its probably not a big deal.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4337.jpg

Those 4 holes are 6.5, 7.5, 8.5, and 9.5” of separation. It’s quite the range of adjustament, but I didn’t want to limit myself. The mounts are angled 15° from center line (30° from each other). This was my best estimate with frame limitations and (estimated)upper link length, I wasn’t going to get them any wider. Measuring dozens of time, a little graph paper and a little luck, and I got this number right on

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4400.jpg

As it would turn out, those way-too-tall, wing-looking mounts hit the bottom of the tub, even before ride height. Off come the top (2) holes.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rearaxleupperscutresized.jpg

It is still a close fit, but the mount hasn’t hit the body yet. I may have to add a third bump stop in the middle to prevent this

*edit, it appears now it has hit the tub, center bump stop will definitely be added

Panhard axle mount

Out comes the graph paper and template making material again. I wanted to keep this mount relatively high. I had to retain a full frame in the front as I will running an IFS steering box, so I couldn’t go overboard with how high it was. I also wanted it as close to the tire as was possible to maximize length, so that the panhard and drag link end up exactly the same length.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4404.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4397.jpg
The Panhard mount is going to have feeler gauge clearance between the tie rod at full lock, and the coil spring.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/panhardcoiltierodclearancecropped.jpg

The upper link mount and panhard mount will tie together

Front upper axle mount

I will be running a single parallel upper on the passenger side. Putting the mount right on top of the diff was easy and clean, so that’s where it went. It also happened to line up nicely inside the frame rail. The exhaust is right in the way on the other side anyways. (2) adjustment holes for this

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontpanhardanduppercropped.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontpanhardandupperrotatedandcropp.jpg

Here it is a little more done
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4635.jpg
And with the ram mount, more details on that later
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6383.jpg

Frame upper links
I wanted a bunch of adjustability here too, so there are multiple mounting holes again. The Samurai frame is relatively narrow, but the mounts have no where to go except inside the frame rails. I got the mounts as close to the frame as I could get, with them clocked 15° towards the center, pointed at rear diff.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4583.jpg

It will wrap around both top and bottom of the frame, and the upper most mount will be as near the floor/tub as possible

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0142.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0144.jpg
Sorry if the timeline is confusing, I am thoroughly confusing myself. Keeping so much in order is harder than I thought. Those last 2 pics were taken today :flipoff2: but I think it helps explain how things work

the more details I see on this, the more impressed I am.

as for that third bump stop for the rear suspension, why not just cut the tub out of the way and build up some sheet metal in the tub so there is no longer a hole?

as for the steering, that's good to hear that it works out well so far, it will be interesting to see how it does in the snow.

the more I see builds like this, the more I get set on getting my truck lower and possibly linking it, I've seen some pretty good ideas on this thread so far, especially the lower link mount idea.

the more details I see on this, the more impressed I am.

as for that third bump stop for the rear suspension, why not just cut the tub out of the way and build up some sheet metal in the tub so there is no longer a hole?

as for the steering, that's good to hear that it works out well so far, it will be interesting to see how it does in the snow.

the more I see builds like this, the more I get set on getting my truck lower and possibly linking it, I've seen some pretty good ideas on this thread so far, especially the lower link mount idea.

Funny you should ask, I almost did. I had the lines drawn out on the tub and the cut off wheel out, but decided to sleep on it. It’s a lot easier to cut tomorrow then it is to uncut. I decided against it, and will try to explain without writing a book. It wouldn’t be just a hole, the links have to go some where too. I didn’t want to sacrifice the storage room inside, its pretty minimal as it is. Here is what I had to do on the other side. These holes are behind/under the seats, so not a big deal. I would really have to connect these cuts all the way to the back

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6620.jpg

I cut the top (2) holes off the upper link mounts instead, giving me some clearance, although not as much as I would like. It only sacrifices travel when both sides compress together, hitting a bump with a little speed, jumping, etc. Things that aren’t really the primary purpose. It doesn’t appear it hasn’t hit too hard. If it does become too much of a problem (after bump stop install), I can always still cut the floor out. At full bump (limited by the upper mounts hitting body) there is only 2“ between the bottom of the frame and axle tube, so going much further and I would be notching the frame as well. Can all be done, just has been necessary. Yet

Very sweet build. I'm totally digging it!

Very sweet build. I'm totally digging it!

Kind words are always appreciated, thank you








More details and pictures in a minute...

September 07

Tires

I picked up a used set of 5 TSL SX’s 38.5x14.5x15’s for $400. The 5th was a spare and is a brand new tire. The others are 50-60% tread with very even wear for swampers. Good deal. Tread width is wider than I would prefer, but I will deal with it.

Unmounted, next to the old 32s
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/38svs32s.jpg
Dreaming…
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/dreamingof38s.jpg

Fall 07

Beadlocks

Ruff Stuff is local, so went by there and picked up their 15” weld on beadlocks. All 4 for $175. The beadlocks were perfect, but this became a huge learning experience in itself. I didn’t know a damn thing about wheel construction, but things quickly changed. I prepped the wheels and welded on the 4 inner rings, proud of myself, and thinking the hard part was done. I go to the local Big-O for mounting. “These are reversed rims, you can’t mount them” What the hell is a reversed rim and what the hell does that mean?

Well apparently rims have this thing called a drop center, used to drop one side bead into while the other is stretched onto the rim. When wheels have low backspacing/large offset, they get built reverse shelled, that is, the drop center is on the opposite of the rim. The wheels that came with my package deal of used Toyota parts I had bought a year earlier are 15x10, with 2.125” (2 1/8”) backspacing, and are reverse drop centered. A reversed rim is traditionally mounted from the backside of the rim. Mounted from the backside, that is, unless you beadlock the outer bead (which my dumbass did). You cant get the outer bead outside the wheel with the inner bead mounted (or the other way around, you cant just mount the inner bead from the front side of the wheel). There is some info on this if you search :homer:

I wasn’t about to give up. At the time I was working at a fire sprinkler welding shop, and decided to take advantage of their orbital plasma machine (no fancy CNC anything, 100% manual set-up). If I didn’t try anything, the wheels were giant paper weights anyways. I cut about 1/4” off the radius of each wheel, and re-welded.

This is what was cut from each wheel
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4638.jpg

Spare axle shaft out the backside of a giant pipe lathe, wheel mounted, and all 4 wheels were quickly ‘turned’ (cleaned up by a 4 ½” angle grinder). This whole process shaved a fair amount from each wheel. I wish I had pictures of some of this, but I am pretty sure I was supposed to be ‘working’ while most of this was going on

After buckets of lube, pry bars, fork lifts, etc., still no luck of mounting. I go to my local (non-chain, privately owned this time) tire shop, and hold my breathe (seriously, I went across the street as I couldn’t watch). They managed to mount all 4 without breaking any chords, although I know they had to be stretched pretty bad . One more step down. I am sure the width of the tire, and thick bead/sidewall of the SX helped. I bet a 12.5 wide radial would have ripped in half.

Finally assembled, 39(!) bolts x 4 wheels, and a little rattle can
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/assembledwheeltire.jpg

The backspacing/width of the wheels also seems excessive for reasons beyond tire mounting. Scrub in the front is pretty bad, but surprisingly, doesn’t really seem to hurt anything. In the end, I actually needed all the extra width from the wheels for clearance with the front links and tailgate.

Complete wheel/tire combo weighs a ridiculous 130 lbs each. Aired all the way up, the used tires measure 37.25” tall, and the full tread tire mounted on a non-locked 15x10 (spare) measures 37.75”.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMG_0140.jpg

Damn Man you did everything I wish I had done. Is this your first link type build? Im amazed your tires clear the links. Im running waggy 44's at 61" WMS and my lower links converge in the middle and they almost touch. Im very jealous of you flat belly! Great work keep the pics flowing!

Damn Man you did everything I wish I had done.

Serious question: what did I do that you wish you had done/ what did you wish you had done different?

Is this your first link type build?

Yes, and no.

Is this the first link suspension I have done on my own vehicle, yes. Is this the first link suspension I have completely designed and built on my own, yes

However, I have helped design and build a few other rigs. I am not responsible for any comp winning set-ups, but am not a complete newb to this either

I am working on a post for this thread with all the details of my suspension geometry. No secrets, it is all coming


Im amazed your tires clear the links. Im running waggy 44's at 61" WMS and my lower links converge in the middle and they almost touch.

My WMS-WMS is 58”, with wheel backspacing 2.125 (2 1/8). With 61” WMS-WMS, and wheel backspacing 3.625 (3 5/8), we should have equal width, at least at the inside of the wheel. I don’t know your wheel backspacing, but 3.75 is pretty common, and that would make only a ¼ “ difference in our widths, again, at the inside of the wheel.

I can’t lie, the lugs on my tires do touch the links at full lock. With the steering stops set to prevent (stock) birfield bind, those outer lugs barely clear the lower links. Steering isn’t limited, but I don’t have a whole hell of a lot of clearance either


Im very jealous of you flat belly! Great work keep the pics flowing!

I am jealous of your Shogun!

Thanks, I am just getting started :beer:

I wish I had worked around my body more and kept more of it intact before I cut it up. It would ne nice to be a little less buggy and a little more camping long trail friendly.

The problem for me was Im running triangulated four link front and rear with both diffs offset to the pass side. and with four wheel steer they had be almost identical. and also very triangulated as the short side axle didnt give me much options on link location.

about the third bump, I see where you're coming from now. interesting about those reverse drop center wheels

whats the outside of tire to outside of tire?


i am guessing 80-82

nice welds and great build pics. keep it coming!! What about a good over all shot of the front and rear suspension ?

I wish I had worked around my body more and kept more of it intact before I cut it up. It would ne nice to be a little less buggy and a little more camping long trail friendly.

The problem for me was Im running triangulated four link front and rear with both diffs offset to the pass side. and with four wheel steer they had be almost identical. and also very triangulated as the short side axle didnt give me much options on link location.


Rear steering axle, that is an entirely different animal. I dont see any way of doing that without a complete back-half.

Keeping this friendly for long trail rides, and multi-day camping trips was required. Its been a very fine line to walk though when you want buggy performance. That said, most of our camping gear is turning into backpacking gear

Upper spring mounts.

For many related reasons, the springs will be completely outside the frame rail. That will limit travel some, but travel is way overrated anyways. It will be much more stable and predictable. I also wanted ride height to be adjustable for fine tuning. I wanted to run a full length spring, and with my desired ride height, it puts the upper spring mount well above the top of the frame. I don’t know what alcohol induced or dream state these things came from, but they actually work!

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4393.jpg

They slip down over the top of the frame, and use a piece of 1 ¼ “ allthread to adjust height. I got a 4’ piece of that all thread for free, and just cut it into 4 1ft sections. It isn’t my intention to use more than the last couple inches to adjust, and I plan to cut the excess off

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4399.jpg

and installed
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6712.jpg

Long story short all my parts and tools spent most of 2008 in storage. By the end of September 08 things had settled down. Actually they were fantastic, a real garage for all my junk. I made one last Rubicon trip mid October, overall great trip, but returned with a pretzeled drag link. I wasn’t about to spend a $1 to replace some micro-machine sized Samurai part, and with the new garage in order and a few dollars saved, the knife had come out.

I took a few last pictures
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6446.jpg
and then the top, doors, hood, seats, tail gate, etc started to come off
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6453.jpg

The weekend I did the spring over (1.5 years prior) was the longest it had ever been non-op, and that was only for about 30 hours.

The next step was harder than you think, but I knew what I had to do

Other things collected about this time (Sep/Oct/Nov 08)

Johnny Joints from Summit Racing are $35.99. You can’t beat this. I considered bushings on one end, but the cost difference was minimal and was extra work. 14 (had 4, got 10 more) JJ’s it is. (8) 1.25” shank for the lowers, and (6) 1.00” shank for the uppers. All right hand thread. The Ballistic joints weren’t out at this time, but today I think they are the only things comparable for the price.
*edit, well they were $35.99 last year, apparently they are now $39.99, still a great deal
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CUR-CE9114/

Bolts for all the JJ’s are grade 8 9/16 from Fastenal. The hollow bolts (I believe for greasing) from Currie would have made me nervous, and the Fastenal bolts were much cheaper

I had thought about tapping the links, but with weld in bungs it made matching sizing, cutting link length, and doing it all at home so much easier. Bungs and jam nuts are from Ballistic. Also (2) RH 3/4x3/4 chromo heims and some spacers for the panhard

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6381.jpg

Lower links are 2” .250 DOM, uppers are 1.5” .120 DOM. $168 for a 20 ft of the 2” ($8.40 per foot), $84 for a stick of the 1.5” ($4.65 per foot). I also got a couple sticks of HREW 1.5 .120 @ $2.10/foot and a stick of HREW 1.5 .095 @ $1.60/foot. The hot rolled prices were decent, but next time I would do some more shopping around on the DOM. I was surprised that the 1.5 DOM was more than double the HREW. All from Del Paso Pipe and Steel. That was a year ago, I just got some more HREW 1.5 recently and it was about 30% cheaper than before

rear uppers, JJ’s, and bungs tacked in

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6605.jpg

A couple more things I made just as I was getting underway.

Panhard mount for the frame, steering box mount, and tie-rod ram mount

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6382.jpg

I spent far more time measuring and designing that damn panhard mount than it took to make. The drag link and panhard end up perfectly parallel, and both exactly 37 ¾” long

nice welds and great build pics.
Thank you
keep it coming!! What about a good over all shot of the front and rear suspension ?
I know I keep saying there are lots more pictures and details coming, but there really are! Its hard to keep this is some rational order, but since you asked I will give up at least a little today

December 08
rear suspension tacked together and cycling
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6611.jpg

May 09
front suspension, I think it was actually driving, at least around the neighborhood, at this point. Looking closely, you can see both lowers, the upper, panhard (yes, it has a small bend in it), tie rod and drag link
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG3772.jpg

whats the outside of tire to outside of tire?


i am guessing 80-82

Good guess

81" even

November 08, the real build starts

I guess I arbitrarily started with the rear. The front has more limiting factors, and may have been a better start.

Cutting up the rear fenders

Wanting to leave as much ‘Samurai’ as possible, I tried to minimize the rear fender cutting.

very first, hadn’t even pulled the rear axle, I guess in case I had to drive it somewhere
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6471.jpg
first cut, plus inner fender removal
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6480.jpg
rear tire mock-up, and more cut
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6541.jpg
After several cuts, my desire to keep it low forced me to cut off most everything but the snaps for the top. March/April 09
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG3811.jpg

sweet man! what is your belly hieght?

I didn’t realize how many stock brackets are welded to the frame. Rear bumper, gas tank, spring hangers, shocks, bumpstops, lots more I don’t even remember what they were for. I hate grinding, especially under vehicles. Slowly, it all got cleaned up. Well, mostly. I left a few things to get back to, someday…

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6459.jpg

rear clean up in progress
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6533.jpg

outside of the frame clean
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6535.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6553.jpg

and some of the inside
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6560.jpg

sweet man! what is your belly hieght?

Thanks. It varies from 15-18" in the pictures posted so far. I just measured today, with 25psi in the tires, the bottom of the Mighty Kong is 16 1/4", and the bottom of the frame is 17.5".

Here is a decent profile at trail pressure
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4588.jpg

I believe I raised it about 1" since that was taken

I can't remember if you mentioned it or not, but what did you end up doing for a gas tank?

Very sweet I think you might be lower than me LOL:p Guess its back to the drawing boards to slam it down alittle

WOW! This may be the looowest one I have seen! Sweet man! Does everything work that low?

Looks good, I like them low. My thinking is get the front tires on it, stab the throttle and drag the rest across.

Looks good, I like them low. My thinking is get the front tires on it, stab the throttle and drag the rest across.

thats pretty much how it works

I can't remember if you mentioned it or not, but what did you end up doing for a gas tank?

I didn't really mention it, I was actually hoping nobody would ask :flipoff2:

I will be building a 12-15 gallon cell in the next few months, but for now I am using the stock tank. Its bolted to the stock skid plate, and ratchet strapped down inside the bed :eek: It does make retaining all the smog junk easy :laughing: Completely ghetto, but it is what it is

WOW! This may be the looowest one I have seen! Sweet man! Does everything work that low?

Thanks. Building it low is easy. Making it actual work has definitely been the hard part. It does all work well, actually better than I expected. No doubt up-travel and break-over get sacrificed some

Rear suspension building:

More frame cleaning, this seemed to never end.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6571.jpg

Going together
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6573.jpg

After the frame was all cleaned up, with having all the brackets pre-made this actually went together pretty fast. Front and rear lower links will be the same lengths. Rear axle is moving 12” back, and front axle is moving 12” forward. That put this bracket dead center in the middle of the wheel base.

Axle mount tacked on, and lower link made (just tacked). Note the body mount is in the way, its going to have to be cut.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6585.jpg

Body mount rough cut
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6602.jpg

And adding the spring to the mock-up
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6596.jpg

Test fitting the uppers. I ended up having to cut all the rear crossmembers (except the rear most, just inside the bumper) to get the uppers where I wanted them
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6598.jpg

I already posted these, but this is where they fit into the time frame
Rear all tacked together and checking for binding. (2) upper mount adjustment holes cut off.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6611.jpg

This is one I wasn’t expecting, but there was no other way around it
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6620.jpg

That makes the rear a roller again, although still just tacked. Time to move to the front
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6616.jpg

Looks good, I like them low. My thinking is get the front tires on it, stab the throttle and drag the rest across.

thats pretty much how it works

pretty much

This is from post #1, but I will throw it in again. I need to get more video

YouTube - Capps Crossing AUG 09 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76PXcyqvMws)

I will also be adding a full belly UMWH (?) skid so it slides instead of drags

Im still really digging this thing. Wish I still had doors! We should get together at the con and show all these toyotas how its done! You really have me thinking about swaping in some 12 or 14"s instead of my 16"s

Im still really digging this thing. Wish I still had doors! We should get together at the con and show all these toyotas how its done! You really have me thinking about swaping in some 12 or 14"s instead of my 16"s

Thanks, I have full doors and a full top too :flipoff2: plus a sealed tub and working heater :D

I am always down to go wheeling, especially if its to show Jeeps or others how to do it. Let me know :beer:

My shocks are DT8000's in the 12" variety. If I didn't need the compressed length of the 12" (for the built in bump stop), I probably could have even run 10's

December 08

front suspension

I knew from day one that I would be losing the entire front clip and a bunch of the frame. So off it went. This is resting on jack stands at close pretty close to ride height. I cant even roll the front axle under because the frame is in the way
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6624.jpg

driver front frame cut
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6656.jpg

and the passenger side cut

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6657.jpg
With the frame gone, now I could at least roll the Toyota front under it. I already know my lower link length, and the bracket is already tacked to the frame from when I did the rear. This made locating the axle very easy, just had to tack the mounts to the axle
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6658.jpg

The front upper really had only one place to go with the body and frame in the way
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6659.jpg
and reposted
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6660.jpg
I wanted caster in the +6-10° range. One advantage to the low rider stance is driveshaft angles look stock. Caster ends up at +7°, I would push it to +10 if it didn’t make the pinion drag more in the rocks.

Time to rebuild the front frame. Before I started on this, my plan had been to extend it straight out from the motor mounts. With my desired ride height, I quickly realized that wasn’t going to cut it. The panhard and drag link would be hitting both the frame and the axle. It was even close.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6654.jpg

I decide to build a 5” step into the frame (frame lift?, body drop?). This gives be the clearance I need for the drag link and panhard. It does make keeping the stock grill impossible, and further complicates what I am going to do with the radiator. More on that later

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6669.jpg

the (2) short mitered pieces are 2x4 .250 wall, and all the rest is .120

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6670.jpg

The new frame also extends out pretty far. I am not really a fan of this, but without going full hydro, there was no other choice. I debated going to an FJ-60 box, but it would have to be right on top of the panhard mount. IFS box is the only way for me to go (plus I already had it)

Pulled it out to fully weld. The .250 mitered joints were beveled, and sleeved and plated where it attaches to the frame. Obviously upside down
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6678.jpg

With the new frame, I could start on the steering and get the panhard mount tacked in
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6696.jpg

That made it a roller again, so outside it went to rinse off the grinder dust and clean the garage
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6694.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6689.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/addresscropped.jpg

wow. nice work. well thought out. nice

Awesome keep the pics coming. If your interested in wheeling we are hitting hollister hills this coming weekend

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6670.jpg

Great minds think alike.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/638780/fullsize/img_7547.jpg

whats your roof height & belly height?

Awesome keep the pics coming. If your interested in wheeling we are hitting hollister hills this coming weekend

sending PM

wow. nice work. well thought out. nice

Thanks :)

Great minds think alike.

For a split second I thought there was a photochop :laughing:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/638780/fullsize/img_7547.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontframeresized.jpg


I agree, that is a great idea :D

I am curious to see how different/similar our steering and radiators ended up. My steering shaft (steering wheel to box) is at a goofy angle. My radiator also had to be angled back quite a bit to not hang way below the frame

whats your roof height & belly height?

with 25psi in the tires, the bottom of the Mighty Kong is 16 1/4", and the bottom of the frame is 17.5".

The tallest point is the top of the targa, measuring 71”, also at 25 psi

Some steering details:

Box mount. You can buy these pretty inexpensive, but whats the fun in that. The template I made for this sat in a drawer for over a year before I ever actually made it. The sleeves are 1/2” S40, not ideal, but it was free and they will work.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6697.jpg

Frame drilled and sleeved, and mount tacked in
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6702.jpg

Welded
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6705.jpg

Those bolts were just temporary, I think they were actually the old Samurai steering box bolts. I used ½” grade 8. The mounting holes on the box itself have to reamed out a little to run a ½” bolt through it

I will let this speak for itself
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6683.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6705.jpg

Pretty much same spot on mine, just different box.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/638782/fullsize/img_7550.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/638785/fullsize/img_7553.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/638784/fullsize/img_7552.jpg

mine is at the same roof height as well 5' 11"

my belly to ground is alittle lower though, around 15.5" w/ UHMW

keep the good fabbin, picture postin comin...

mine is at the same roof height as well 5' 11"

my belly to ground is alittle lower though, around 15.5" w/ UHMW

keep the good fabbin, picture postin comin...

I will be adding a full skid plate, so it sounds like belly and overall heights will end up almost identical. Thanks for sharing pictures, I am glad to see I am not the only one doing things different just to minimize lift.

It looks like my frame extension comes up higher, but I am also running a drop pitman arm to your flat one, so that pretty much evens out. Any pics with a panhard mount? Or are you not running one? The reason my frame extension comes up so high is so the panhard mount on the frame doesn’t hit the knuckle when the driver tire is stuffed.

Level at ride height, they can still almost touch
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/panhardknuckleclearanceresized.jpg

I had to notch the frame on the other side
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/panhardframenotchresized.jpg

Crappy pictures, sorry, my ‘camera’ is on a business trip, and tires are in the way for a good angle


More pictures indeed, momentarily back to the regular schedule

January 09

sliders

Long ago I had cut the rockers out, all the way up to the bottom of the door

What I had done before was use a piece of 2x4 .250 in place of the rocker

old slider:
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5687.jpg

It worked great, but I now needed it to be longer, and the old tubes that tied to the frame were in the way of everything

I decided to use .120 wall 2x4 this time. The .250 was really heavy, and had no dents after lots of hard hits. So far so good on the thinner stuff, but I don’t have near the abuse on the new ones yet. Time will tell.

2x4 cut and capped, test fitting
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6714.jpg

Passenger side tying into the frame. I already had the frame plated here from when I tied the stock B pillar to the frame
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6751.jpg

And the front tie-in going together
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6754.jpg

drivers side is a mirror image
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6757.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6755.jpg

Tube front

I was really looking forward to laying out the front tube work. It did not disappoint, I think building this has been my favorite part

I started with the stinger. It just sits on top of the frame, so it was a good base to begin with.

Stingers aren’t my favorite thing to look at but they have a purpose. I kept it as short as I could, but tall enough it will help save my radiator/hood in a roll over

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6717.jpg

Next was the main part of the fender. I had just enough DOM left over from the upper links to make these
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6707.jpg

Next piece. This is part of the reason the slider extended out, I needed a point to attach the fender to. The end has a short bend in it, this was a pain to get both driver/passenger sides to match
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6763.jpg

I got these tube caps from Ballistic, $3.49 each. Super deal

Ballistic tube caps (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Billet-Steel-Tube-Caps_p_1498.html)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6729.jpg

I also bought shock mounts from them on a 50% off sale. This is the first tab/mount I didn’t make myself, but it was way too good of a deal and I was ordering the caps anyways

Caps added, and fender tacked in place
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6768.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6770.jpg

Drivers side tacked, plus another tube under the front of the hood
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6792.jpg

And another support
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6794.jpg
Driver side partially welded
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6801.jpg

Overall shot at this point
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6802.jpg

I let the hood sit down a little lower than it should, and will use the stock rubber stoppers on the hood to adjust it back up and off the fenders

Another tube for the shock mount, and all welded up
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6811.jpg
And the shock mount mock-up
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6810.jpg

That’s it for all the main tubing
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6841.jpg

A few other smaller things get mounted later
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6839.jpg

just when I thought I knew just how amazing this rig is, I see even more detail about it. seriously, I can't get over how nice this thing is!

I will be adding a full skid plate, so it sounds like belly and overall heights will end up almost identical. Thanks for sharing pictures, I am glad to see I am not the only one doing things different just to minimize lift.

It looks like my frame extension comes up higher, but I am also running a drop pitman arm to your flat one, so that pretty much evens out. Any pics with a panhard mount? Or are you not running one? The reason my frame extension comes up so high is so the panhard mount on the frame doesn’t hit the knuckle when the driver tire is stuffed.

I'll get some pics soon.

I would have liked to raise my frame higher but i'm running a 4.3 and the radiator barely fits with the hood closed so I'm glad I didn't. I didn't have much room to angle my radiator any more than it is.

I planned the front end for along time. I'm running a Full Size Chevy D44 and planned on running the tierod in the stock knucled arms so that the track bar can be lower (following the draglink angle) thus not needing to notch the frame.

here is a pic of my steering. you can see the panhard but it's been lengthened and parallel with the draglink now.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e73/roczuk/Project%20Teal%20Turd/PIC-00941.jpg.

dude keep up the good work.

-Tristan

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6810.jpghttp://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6839.jpg

I love that you added adjustability with the coils. :smokin:

just when I thought I knew just how amazing this rig is, I see even more detail about it. seriously, I can't get over how nice this thing is!

thanks :D

I'll get some pics soon.

I would have liked to raise my frame higher but i'm running a 4.3 and the radiator barely fits with the hood closed so I'm glad I didn't. I didn't have much room to angle my radiator any more than it is.

I planned the front end for along time. I'm running a Full Size Chevy D44 and planned on running the tierod in the stock knucled arms so that the track bar can be lower (following the draglink angle) thus not needing to notch the frame.

here is a pic of my steering. you can see the panhard but it's been lengthened and parallel with the draglink now.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e73/roczuk/Project%20Teal%20Turd/PIC-00941.jpg.

dude keep up the good work.

-Tristan


I had a hard time fitting just the tiny stock radiator
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5192.jpg

and with it leaned back almost into the motor, I still had to give give it its own skid because it hung below the frame
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5194.jpg

I love that you added adjustability with the coils. :smokin:

Thanks, me too :D I didn’t mean to use them to adjust quite so much, I need some longer springs. Otherwise it has been great being able to tune each corner

Spring and shock mounts

Another minor issue I had pre-making this stuff was the height of my upper spring mounts. I made all 4 the same, assuming frame height would be the same front to rear. The frame in the front now sat 5” higher than the rear. I had enough adjustment in them to compensate, but I am anal with symmetry. I cut the tacks off the rears and added spacers to get them up to the same height.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6713.jpg

Originally wanting my adjusters for 1-2” of adjustment, I would now be adjusting 5-6”. Not that big of a deal, but I have definitely been searching for a used set of TJ lift springs that are close to the stock spring rate.

Plated the inside of the spacer and frame
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5202.jpg

While I am talking plating, heres the plating over where the stock frame and frame extension go together. This joint was also sleeved
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frameextentionplatingresize.jpg
The shock cleared the frame at full droop before, but that white spot of paint tells me it doesn’t clear the plate :shaking:

I got (4) Doetsch Tech 8000’s from Trail Tough. 5” diameter coils take up a lot of room, and there was just no easy way to package a separate bump stop. With built in bump stops, and at only $170 for the set, it wasn’t much of a choice

DT8000's (http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=198&category_id=43&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53)

The lower shock mount is on the lower link, I had no where else to put them. With the jam nuts super tight, and all the ends being RH, this hasn’t really been a problem

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6759.jpg

I had to change the height of the upper mount a few times so the bump stop would keep the tire out of the fender. This leaves very little shaft showing in the shock.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG6762.jpg

At first I wasn’t really sure of this, but the stop squishes down to almost nothing (and I can still get the tires into the fenders :laughing: )

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5210.jpg

panhard

I had used my drag link just as a mock-up for the panhard, since they would both be the same length and both 3/4x3/4 heims. After cycling the front suspension, there was interference between the panhard and the ram mount/part of the upper link mount on the axle.

You can kind of see the issue here
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/panhardrammountinterferenceresized.jpg

I did not want a bent link, but I will live with it. 1.5” .250 DOM with a slight bend at the axle mount. No more interference

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5208.jpg

Bolts are ¾ “ grade 8 fine thread

With the whole suspension cycled and good to go, everything got welded in place right where it was

Front
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontcalcscreenshot.jpg

Rear
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rearcalculatorscreenshot.jpg

The link calculator is a great tool, but the numbers aren’t meant to be taken quite literally. It is more of, if I minimize/maximize a certain location, does a certain value go up or go down. My unsprung weights are only estimated, as is CG (which is SPRUNG center of gravity, not overall)

I wanted a low anti-squat value in the rear, and a tall, flat roll axis. Those were the only real goals, the rest just worked itself out. Keep in mind this is more-or-less within the stock frame and body, which limits quite a bit

I am completely open to discussion with the suspension geometry, I would even encourage it

Looks like it'll work pretty good. is the purpose for crawling/trail riding only?

Looks like it'll work pretty good. is the purpose for crawling/trail riding only?

The main purpose is definitely crawling/trail riding. It does get some street time though. I try to drive around the neighborhood or to the store or something every week or so if it hasn't been driven. I even made a 150 mile round trip with it, although never over 50mph :laughing:

Coming right along, and looking damn good. :smokin: cant wait to see more pics of it out on the trails.

Really nice build :smokin:

More steering

I snagged (free) a power steering pump, bracket and reservoir from an ’87 2wd Toyota pickup .

I cut up the stock Toyota bracket, made a plate to bolt to the 1.3 block, and welded together. I also retained the stock Toyota tensioner pulley
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/pumpandbracketresize.jpg

Reservoir, as high as possible (limited by the hood)
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/resresized.jpg

With help from the Official Toyota PBB Bible/FAQ (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780) I found this Hydraulic assist, hydro assist tech (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=617039) Lots of good information.

Surplus Center (https://www.surpluscenter.com/) is where I bought a ram, fittings, and lines as described here Hydro assist on the cheap (http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4699.0)

I tapped the IFS box, also with help from the Toyota FAQ. I do not like how the fitting sticks straight out of the front. I picked up another shell, and will be moving that port

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/tappedboxresized.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/ramresize.jpg

Somewhere along the line, I created some interference between the tie rod and the panhard mount with the tire at full lock. Flipping the tie rod to the bottom of the knuckle (luckily) alleviated the clearance issue, but I had to re-do the tie rod side ram mount. No worries, it all worked.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/ramresize2.jpg

$36 cooler from summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-3818/)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/coolerresized.jpg

Howe steering bleeding instructions (http://www.howeperformance.com/pdfs/bleed-instr.pdf)

My lines and fittings are kind of a mix-match of different kinds. This was my first hydro set up, and parts were bought at different times from different places. Next time I will know exactly what to buy, and all at once

Steering shaft
I have never seen an angle like this for the steering shaft :laughing: but it turns freely and doesn’t bind
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/steeringshaftangleresize.jpg

I realized I put the spring mount right in the middle of the path of the steering shaft :homer: Got to have a steering shaft, so the spring mount gets notched out

1 Toyota shaft and one Samurai shaft grafted together. It is also still a collapsible shaft
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/graftedsteeringshaftresize.jpg

Definitely no rag joint, turn 90° and bolt together. It is a tight fit with everything
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/antiragjoint.jpg
Overall
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/steeringshaftoverview.jpg

I have considered going to a PSC pump and reservoir ($$), but the stockers have actually been working pretty good for now. Sometimes it takes a little throttle if the tires are up against something. At some point I will try the pump mod (drilling out the restrictor) to see if it improves anything. The ram itself works fine so far, but doing it again I might spend a couple more dollars and get one with heims on the ends

Really nice build :smokin:

Thank you :)

Coming right along, and looking damn good. :smokin: cant wait to see more pics of it out on the trails.


Thanks :D I have sandbagged a few mild action pics to keep everyone a little interested while I go through the less exciting tech of the build

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4616.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4617.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4618.jpg

I hope to have a real trip report and some better action pics after next weekend

i LOVE the stance! :smokin:

Really nice build man, One of the better ones ive seen. Thanks for reasuring me on my new frame build vs cleaning the stocker for everything ;) Let us know how everything is performing.

If you went full hydro in front do you think you would still have to cut and raise front part of frame? I am going to stretch my sammy and want to run rear steer, so i will have hydro anyway.

Your 4 link seems to flex fine even with limited triangulation. do you have issues with the axle "steering" when flexed?

Love the COG by the way. great looking crawler!

Spring 09

Cooling system:
I covered this a little, but I will put it all together

I have never had any cooling issues, so I planned to keep as much of the stock cooling system as possible. With the frame step up I did in the front, the stock radiator hung way down below the frame. I decided to angle it back towards the motor.

It ended up feeler gauge tight between the (stock) hood latch and the p/s cooler, but I was able to use the stock radiator with the stock grill location, without sacrificing much ground clearance.

Small skid to protect the lower tank. (and future winch mounting plate)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/radiatorskidandwinchplate.jpg

The fan is a Flex-a-Lite 110. I had read on here about it being a good fit, and it does indeed fit the stock Samurai radiator perfectly.

Flex-a-Lite 110 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-110/)


t-stat
The radiator inlet ends up pretty close to the thermostat housing, so close that a hose can’t make the bend to connect the two. I spent a day at the junk yards searching for a thermostat housing that will point straight ahead. I literally looked at 100’s of vehicles, and came home with a housing from 20R, and one from a V6 powered ’96 Dodge Caravan. The Caravan one fit better, and I actually ran it for a while. It still needed a funky hose (1 ½ to 1 1/8 adapter). With a good idea from a friend, I made a clocking adapter plate for the stock thermostat housing. Much better

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/clockedtstatandupperhose.jpg

Hoses are a mix of stock hoses and 1 1/8” Samco flex hose I got from Poly Performance

Samco Superflex hose (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Superflex-Hose-p-18038.html)

i LOVE the stance! :smokin:

Thanks :D

Really nice build man, One of the better ones ive seen. Thanks for reasuring me on my new frame build vs cleaning the stocker for everything ;) Let us know how everything is performing.


Thanks, and you’re welcome :flipoff2: I kept the stock frame because I told myself when I want a tube chassis, I will build a full tube chassis. But that was before I spent weeks cutting and grinding on the stock frame. Setting the body up on a new box tube frame isn’t a bad idea at all, there are times that I wish that’s what I had done. I’d like to see what you end up with

If you went full hydro in front do you think you would still have to cut and raise front part of frame? I am going to stretch my sammy and want to run rear steer, so i will have hydro anyway.

No reason to. Full hydro plus triangulated 4 link (no panhard) and you really don’t need much in front of the motor mounts

Your 4 link seems to flex fine even with limited triangulation. do you have issues with the axle "steering" when flexed?

No. I did have some concern though, and that’s part of the reason my lowers are 44” long

Love the COG by the way. great looking crawler!

Thanks! :)

This is probably one of the best writeups on the net. It's awesome how you provide links etc. to what you used. If someone were to mimick your build, it would be easy to find the necessary parts. Props to you!

Thanks :D Thanks, and you’re welcome :flipoff2: I kept the stock frame because I told myself when I want a tube chassis, I will build a full tube chassis. But that was before I spent weeks cutting and grinding on the stock frame. Setting the body up on a new box tube frame isn’t a bad idea at all, there are times that I wish that’s what I had done. I’d like to see what you end up with I went thru all that too, glad I went new. :) Here's mine...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=745738

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e37/33JJ/leftovers/100_1827.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e37/33JJ/leftovers/100_1828.jpg

Electrical

I got a never installed GM alternater bracket from a guy locally for $20. I think it’s a Trail Tough bracket (http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=30&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53). I got a 94 amp 12si alternator from a early ’80 Camaro at the local Pick n Pull, also $20. Good alternator info (http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml)


I wanted to reuse the stock battery, because I had it and it worked. I wanted it mounted low, and on the passenger side, and I wasn’t giving up room inside. No matter how I positioned it, I could hit it with my tire. With some careful measuring, an Odyssey (http://www.odysseybatteries.com/) 925 will fit. I prefer Summit for the giant mail order type, but they were on backorder, so this came from Jegs. Odyssey 925MJT from Jegs (http://www.jegs.com/p/UNKNOWN/Odyssey-Racing-Batteries/743313/10002/-1) Expensive little bastard, but it was the only thing that would fit

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/925resize.jpg

The horn is very distinctly Samurai, it had to stay. Also, stock hood latch welded to the front tube, and small pads for the hood stops.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/hoodlatchhornandhoodbump.jpg

I hate the factory nest of vac lines and wires, but this is smog legal, and stock motor for now, so it all has to stay. If you grind out a small key way, you can rotate the air box around on the carb. I turned it into the corner, and made new mounts for the air box

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/airboxresize.jpg

Also pictured is the fan controller that came with the fan, and a terminal block from Jegs

Mighty Kong Shave/case arm

Long ago the driver side arm ripped off the frame, so I made a new one.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/casearmresized.jpg

I also shaved a big section out of my Mighty Kong. I wish I had before and after pics, but I don’t. The front and passenger sides got the trim job, gaining maybe ¾” in some places. More importantly the leading edge has a much better transition

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5245.jpg

Driveshafts

Rock 4X Fabrication’s Rat Adapters (https://www.rock4xfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=78&osCsid=e994eb3ab4ee63b9f08a4bdb60c29603) are the standard to run Toyota drivelines on Samurai cases, and that is what I will be using

I had an ’83 Toy CV front shaft from all the Toyota parts I bought years prior, and made it into my rear shaft. Some 2.5” S40, and I had a driveshaft.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rearshaft.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/reardriveshaft.jpg


With how little money I had into it, it was worth making my own. As expecting though, with a heavy home-made shaft, it does vibrate at > 40mph. At least I will have a spare after I get a real driveshaft made ($).

I got a few 1 piece (1981?) Toy rear shafts for $50, and made my front shaft just the same.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontDSresized.jpg

Everything is drilled out for 3/8” bolts

This is probably one of the best writeups on the net. It's awesome how you provide links etc. to what you used. If someone were to mimick your build, it would be easy to find the necessary parts. Props to you!

Thank you, I really do appreciate it. I have processed so much information in doing this, I think I just needed a way to vent :laughing: If the info is useful to someone, even better :)

I went thru all that too, glad I went new. :) Here's mine...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=745738

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e37/33JJ/leftovers/100_1827.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e37/33JJ/leftovers/100_1828.jpg


Thanks for the pics and link, I am not quite sure how I have missed your build before, but I will definitely be following it now. Your frame looks great. I like the use of 2x3, I think it looks much cleaner than the normal 2x4. The reuse of stock cross members and body mounts is awesome, leaving no doubt its still a Samurai :smokin:

May 09

Prairie City

With the driveshafts in, and after some hot laps around the block, I drove it out to Prairie City for a little test run. It was hard to both drive and take the pictures, but the important thing was everything worked! With pretty close to the same belly height and now 2’ more wheelbase, I high centered it in honestly the first 10 minutes :laughing: (I guess I learn fast though, it hasn’t happened since).

Crappy cell phone pictures, sorry, its all I had with me at the time
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Image005.jpg http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Image004.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Image009.jpg

Everything seemed to work great, the biggest issue was the front tires hitting the tube fender, and hitting the headlights. The headlight bucket is bent pretty good here
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Image012.jpg

Bumpstop adjustment needed, and relocation of the headlight, I was pleased these were the only issues

Unfortunately the new fan decided to eject a blade into the radiator, guaranteeing the AAA ride home :laughing: Summit replaced the fan, but I had to source another stock radiator.


http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Image013.jpg

im more of a toyota guy. but hot damn your sami is bad ass! that thing is so sweet. my gf has a sami that is about the same as yours when it was on 32s.. does pretty good. but im going to try and con her into doing some thing more likes yours :D

god damn this thing is awesome:mr-t:

So lets see if we agree on this. If you had it to do again would you pull off the tub and sand blast that rubberized coating crap off the sammi frame before you started? Or would you just make a custom frame a little stouter than the sammi frame?

Now that you see it work would you say building your shocks for down travel and very little uptravel is more of what you use for rockcrawling? I don't agree with your shocks being mounted on the links when they bend or something around it one day you will need to adjust them to compensate. It works now but may be a snag later.

I really like this build. Have you figured out its strength and weaknesses yet? Particular obstacles you kick ass on and others you have a hard time on?

I've never seen anything look so good on a tow truck!

From the stand point of owning another very low samurai I would say up travel is overrated if you mainly crawl with some light fire road stuff. As long as you have enough suspension to soak up a big hit when you are bumping over an obstacle without compressing a vertabrae its all good.

my buggy is on 40's with a 20 inch belly linked f/r and it climbs like hell but big breakovers piss me off all the time,,,, breakovers that zooks with higher belly's walk over no issue's all the time.

exhaust

I temporarily reused the stock exhaust to get this moving , but it was in pretty bad shape. The muffler finally completely broke off, and it was time to build new. Link suspension plus low ride height doesn’t leave a lot of room for exhaust. I actually liked the anemic putt-putt leaking exhaust sound it had before. With 60hp, you aren’t going to fool anybody, so I set out to find a quiet muffler. My search lead me to find the Walker Quiet-Flow 3 Mufflers (” http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Walker-Exhaust/Product-Line/Walker-Quiet-Flow-3-Mufflers/?autoview=SKU”). There are hundreds of inlet, outlet, and muffler dimension variations. It took a while to dig up one that fit my needs , 2” offset inlet, 2” centered output, small, and most importantly, thin. Walker 21535 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-21535/)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5311.jpg

I also got some mandrel J bends from Summit, and a straight piece from the local Auto Zone.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5309-1.jpg

At idle it is a little louder than stock, but not much. Revved up I think the difference is even less

Rear bumper

Reusing the stock tail lights in 2x4 .120
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/Photo206.jpg

Tire carrier.

This also needed to fold down. Tire mounting plate (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/mounting-toyota-gmford-p-256.html) and bushings from Ruff Stuff

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5290.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5284.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5292.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5291.jpg

Fold down tailgate

Reused stock hinges, backing plates inside the tailgate, and bolted to the bumper

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5293.jpg

That should bring this thread up to date. 3 years in 3 weeks. A few more pictures from August 09
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4593.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4592.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4594.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4595.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4601.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4602.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4604.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4605-1.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4607.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4608.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4610.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG4611.jpg

im more of a toyota guy. but hot damn your sami is bad ass! that thing is so sweet. my gf has a sami that is about the same as yours when it was on 32s.. does pretty good. but im going to try and con her into doing some thing more likes yours :D

god damn this thing is awesome:mr-t:

I've never seen anything look so good on a tow truck!

Thanks :D

So lets see if we agree on this. If you had it to do again would you pull off the tub and sand blast that rubberized coating crap off the sammi frame before you started? Or would you just make a custom frame a little stouter than the sammi frame?

When I started on this stage, my roll cage was already tied into the frame. If I was starting with a stocker I would build a new frame, something simple and clean like the one JJ3 posted in here

Now that you see it work would you say building your shocks for down travel and very little uptravel is more of what you use for rockcrawling? I don't agree with your shocks being mounted on the links when they bend or something around it one day you will need to adjust them to compensate. It works now but may be a snag later.

The minimal uptravel is definitely aimed for crawling. My 12" shocks don't even use the last 2-3" of droop (limited by the spring). I honestly don't like the shocks mounted on the links either. I committed to conventional coils and shocks a long time ago because they are cost effective. Putting them on the links is entirely a packaging situation. 5" diameter coils take up a bunch of room, and I couldn't figure out anywhere else to put them. The mounts are on top of the threaded inserts at the very end of the link at the axle, I dont think bending a link (in the middle) would move the shock mount very much. If it did become a problem, I already have the material for 2 more lower links anyways

I really like this build. Have you figured out its strength and weaknesses yet? Particular obstacles you kick ass on and others you have a hard time on?

Thanks, I will try to get a little feedback report typed up in a minute

From the stand point of owning another very low samurai I would say up travel is overrated if you mainly crawl with some light fire road stuff. As long as you have enough suspension to soak up a big hit when you are bumping over an obstacle without compressing a vertabrae its all good.

I completely agree that uptravel, and even travel altogether, is overrated for most of our purposes. Those of us that are low and stable will be laughing at the RTI queens when they roll over on an actual trail

my buggy is on 40's with a 20 inch belly linked f/r and it climbs like hell but big breakovers piss me off all the time,,,, breakovers that zooks with higher belly's walk over no issue's all the time.

Sounds like you need to pick better lines :flipoff2: For my driving style, this is a worthwhile tradeoff, but it is a tradeoff

This is a psuedo trail report because I didnt get any pictures, but hopefully I can get a hold of some one elses pics soon. I put in a good trail run over the weekend, and definitely pushed it harder than previous trips.

I wrecked 3 of the built-in bump stops. I think I am just using them beyond their intended purpose. I will have to figure out a way to get a separate bump in there.

Body roll is non-existant. The suspension doesn't unload at all. The rig will just about stand on its side, and can take turns at speed. The suspension will bottom out hitting bumps at speed, but that shouldn't suprise anyone. The ground clearance and suspension travel I sacrificed makes it very well balanced and stable. That is exactly the tradeoff I was going for, and it works great so far.

The footwells, bottom of the frame, and Kong got a work out, but managed to slide over stuff pretty well and I never got high centered. A real skid plate should make this even less of a problem.

There is no hopping/bouncing that some rigs do while trying to climb. Just a nice and smooth tire spin. I built the rear suspension with a low AS value (<50%) hoping to accomplish this. I can adjust it up to 80 something, and at some point my try that just to see how much difference it really makes.

With stock axles and 32's, the stock carb never caused me any problems. A little different now, everything else will drive at angles well beyond where the carb will let the motor run. Twice I had to get winched out of a predicament because I couldn't get the motor to refire. Fuel injection just got pushed way up on the priority list

sweet man, good to hear it all works. Sounds like propane and skid plates are next!

Now throw a 16V in it and hammer on it. Looks great I love the end result!

16v swap or propane will be ur best bet. I have a zuk that is legally swapped to propane using the gotpropane.com kit. I only had to fill out the statement of fact form at dmv them they approved it and sent me tags. NO SMOG!!!!!!

16v swap or propane will be ur best bet. I have a zuk that is legally swapped to propane using the gotpropane.com kit. I only had to fill out the statement of fact form at dmv them they approved it and sent me tags. NO SMOG!!!!!!


In the back of my mind I had planned on a basic 1.6 8V, but
NO SMOG!!!!!!
has my attention. Hopefully you don't mind, I am going to PM you a few questions about this

Very cool build...kinda reminds me of Blueballs tintop...



http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/blueballs2u/balls%20ride%202/IMG_1954Medium.jpg


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/blueballs2u/Snow%20Jan%202007/IMG_3563.jpg

How bout a good straight on pic of the track width

cool build.. just got done reading through it.. Maybe air bumps would be good for your application? since you ride so close to full bump they could be the ticket..

-Scott

Very cool build...kinda reminds me of Blueballs tintop...

Thanks. It's not entirely a coincidence, there are at least a half dozen Samurais on here that might appear similar to mine, including that one ;)

How bout a good straight on pic of the track width

I am out of town until the middle of next week, but no problem after I get back home

cool build.. just got done reading through it.. Maybe air bumps would be good for your application? since you ride so close to full bump they could be the ticket..

-Scott

Thank you. I agree that an air bump would work well for my application. Unfortunately, they just aren't something that is cost effective for me right now. I think I am going to try something like Poly Performance's Urethane Bump Stops (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Competition-Style-Slotted-p-208.html) and see how well they work

i would go with timbrens everyone i know thats added them love them
http://timbren.com ..I've felt the difference first hand on a buddies rockwelled rig on 47s and was very impressed with them, almost felt like a different buggy

man that is one clean well built rig, hats off to a great job!

i would go with timbrens everyone i know thats added them love them
http://timbren.com ..I've felt the difference first hand on a buddies rockwelled rig on 47s and was very impressed with them, almost felt like a different buggy

Thanks for the link. I had heard of those, but honestly didn’t know too much. With some research, they look like they would work well. Per Timbren “Ideally, you want to adjust the rubber spring to within a gap of about 1 inch.” That actually would fit nicely (except the passenger front). They are almost $200/pair, more than all 4 of my shocks and springs combined. We will see what the budget holds.

man that is one clean well built rig, hats off to a great job!

Thanks!
:)

How bout a good straight on pic of the track width

front
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5469.jpg
and rear
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rearprofilecroppedandclipped.jpg
If you wanted something more specific, don’t be shy

Since the camera was out, here are a few more with the full doors and top
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5471.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5472.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/driverprofileclipped.jpg

Nothing very exciting happening, was out of town for a month, and have done nothing but fail smog (twice) in the week I have been home :(
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5465.jpg
Gross Polluter, excess NOx
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/smogcheck.jpg
I have a fairly new cat (< 500 miles) and a brand new 02. Hopefully this is a EGR and/or a carbon deposit issue? New EGR valves seem to be well over $100? That’s fucking ridicluous. Stock 1.3. Any advice is appreciated

move out of California. that's my advice. :flipoff2:

badass things like that should be exempt from emissions, because they emit enough badassness to compensate.

environmentalists ruin everything

I can't believe you have to go through that shit. Did they put extra emissions shit on the 1.3 for a California?

move out of California. that's my advice. :flipoff2:

badass things like that should be exempt from emissions, because they emit enough badassness to compensate.

environmentalists ruin everything


Yeah yeah I know. CA has more than its share of :rainbow:-ness, but we also have the best trails in the world :flipoff2: 63 HP (after 20+ years, I am sure its not more than 50HP) should also exempt me :flipoff2:. I have almost registered it in NV,OR, or a remote CA county to avoid all this, but I really believe I can pass. I have gone through a lot to retain all the stock smog junk, just have to figure this out.

I can't believe you have to go through that shit. Did they put extra emissions shit on the 1.3 for a California?

A computer controlled carb doomed itself the day it was made, and California isn't helping it any. Once I get it through, this will be the last carb'd engine I ever smog :mad3:

try smaller tires so you wont load the engine as much. Is your cat good? Ever zuk i have own would eat the cat in a year.

Is the choke opeing all the way? Im running a can of the guaranteed to pass emissions (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Chemical s&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=128434_0_0_&productId=128434&sortType=&parentId=17-10&filterByKeyWord=guaranteed+to+pass+smog&categoryNValue=100017&navValue=101173&fromWhere=&itemId=1173-10&displayName=Fuel+Additive+and+Cleaner&store=5595&skuDisplayName=12+oz.+Guaranteed+To+Pass+emissions +test+formula&brandName=CRC) stuff in my zuk. my dad swears by it

try smaller tires so you wont load the engine as much. Is your cat good? Ever zuk i have own would eat the cat in a year.


I think smaller tires would help some, but the NO's are through the roof. (5.29's plus 6.4's, the load isn't too bad < 25mph) I think something else is going on. The cat is new, only a couple hundred miles on it. If it was bad, I would think it would show up with high HC's and not NOX?

Its second failure was just this afternoon. I think I am going to do some EGR cleaning, maybe a tank of smog additive, and see what happens. Are new EGR valves really $150? The whole 1.3L isn't worth that

Could be egr clogged up and or carbon build-up in combustion chambers. High combustion temps, must be causing your low HC and High NO. Try to decarbon the engine - fill a bottle up with water and drizzle in carb at a high a idle - kind of steam cleans cylinders, do that a few times. A more drastic way to decarbon it would be to drizzle trans. fluid down carb until it dies and let sit for a day then fire it up - your neighbors will love this method. You can also buy some alchohol and run a mix of gas/alc - alcohol burns cooler.

I tried adding 1/2 pint of rubbing alcohol to the 2 gallons that were in the tank. Leaned it way out. Numbers all dropped by half or greater. Fill it back up with gas when your done and your good to go.

Don't know if it will affect NOx readings....I can't find my paperwork to see.

Yeah yeah I know. CA has more than its share of :rainbow:-ness, but we also have the best trails in the world :flipoff2: 63 HP (after 20+ years, I am sure its not more than 50HP) should also exempt me :flipoff2:. I have almost registered it in NV,OR, or a remote CA county to avoid all this, but I really believe I can pass. I have gone through a lot to retain all the stock smog junk, just have to figure this out.

yea, the places to wheel in CA seem to be awesome. and having such little HP should exempt it.

It's probably easier on the environment than a prius, think of all the energy and emissions that are made to make all those batteries...

also, didn't realize you were carbed, that's a bummer. Your rig is still my favorite of all zuk's evar!

oh, and perhaps sea foam is worth a try to de-carbon your engine. I hear good things.

Could be egr clogged up and or carbon build-up in combustion chambers.

I think you are on the right track, that's what what I am leaning towards

High combustion temps, must be causing your low HC and High NO. Try to decarbon the engine - fill a bottle up with water and drizzle in carb at a high a idle - kind of steam cleans cylinders, do that a few times. A more drastic way to decarbon it would be to drizzle trans. fluid down carb until it dies and let sit for a day then fire it up - your neighbors will love this method. You can also buy some alchohol and run a mix of gas/alc - alcohol burns cooler.

Thanks for the info. I have done the water spray bottle in the carb trick before, but its been a few years. Won't hurt me to try again.

The 'guarantee to pass smog' additives seem ok, but require me to burn a whole tank of gas. Last I checked, I burned 2.75 gallons in 12 trail miles, running for a continuous 8 hours. Burning 10 gallons would take a while, never thought I would complain about good mpg :laughing: With expired tags and way too many fix-its, burning a tank on the road isn't currently an option

Details on doing it with ATF? I am cool with a drastic approach if it works

I tried adding 1/2 pint of rubbing alcohol to the 2 gallons that were in the tank. Leaned it way out. Numbers all dropped by half or greater. Fill it back up with gas when your done and your good to go.

Don't know if it will affect NOx readings....I can't find my paperwork to see.

I believe the alcohol is to help reduce hydrocarbons/rich mix/poor combustion/bad cat/etc. My issue seems to lean mix, although I am open to anything that might help

yea, the places to wheel in CA seem to be awesome. and having such little HP should exempt it.

It's probably easier on the environment than a prius, think of all the energy and emissions that are made to make all those batteries...

also, didn't realize you were carbed, that's a bummer. Your rig is still my favorite of all zuk's evar!

oh, and perhaps sea foam is worth a try to de-carbon your engine. I hear good things.

I dont disagree with you, but ... So long as I choose to live in CA, I try not to complain :usa::beer:

I do think de-carbonizing is the next step. I plan to get into this weekend, and hope to try to smog again by Sunday

The Trans fluid trick is to pour the fluid in very slowly with engine idling until it dies. DISCLAIMER- do not pour in to fast or you could lock engine and bend a rod. Then let sit overnight start up and run until it stops smoking. Change oil when all done.

I dyno'd my old zuk and i got a whoppin 36 HP.

http://image.4wdandsportutility.com/f/9370413+w750+st0/0703_4wd_03_z+suzuki_samurai_driveline_upgrades+si de_view.jpg

I meant to ask, is that volvo in the driveway in those pics your DD? Volvos are awesome!

Well here is my test for today. Egr not working and no cat. lol

I dyno'd my old zuk and i got a whoppin 36 HP.

That’s awesome. If that’s RWHP, stock motor and 35’s(?) I bet that’s about right. I would like to run mine before I do anything with the motor, mostly just to laugh when it puts down 20 something HP

I meant to ask, is that volvo in the driveway in those pics your DD? Volvos are awesome!

That 240 belongs to Mrs. D Boz. She loves her car. I am not so much a fan, as it’s my job to fix it. I will give it credit though, it’s a tank. There was a time it made it many miles without a rear main seal :laughing: and it still runs well.

My DD is the white Ranger (2.3/5sp.) also in the background of a few of those pics

Well here is my test for today. Egr not working and now cat. lol

Isn’t it fun :flipoff2:

The first thing that jumps out at me is 3° ATDC. Obviously that’s a failure in itself, but I bet it would run a whole lot better at 10° BTDC. I normally run mine at 12-12.5°, and set it about 9° for smog purposes. Good luck!

The Trans fluid trick is to pour the fluid in very slowly with engine idling until it dies. DISCLAIMER- do not pour in to fast or you could lock engine and bend a rod. Then let sit overnight start up and run until it stops smoking. Change oil when all done.

Thanks, that’s what I ended up doing.
The EGR was pretty nasty, cleaned it the best I could and put it back in.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5479.jpg

I managed to get a quart of ATF in before I completely stalled it out. Let it sit over night, and fired it up this morning.
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5482.jpg http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5484.jpg
Took about 15 minutes for it to quit smoking. Oil change and new plugs. It did run noticeably better after.

I was feeling good after running the ATF through and partial tune-up, but the end results weren’t much better :(

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/smogcheckround3.jpg

NO’s came down quite a bit, but are still way too high

Any carburetor/smog gurus out there? I admit I am scared of messing with the carb, I would rather rebuild an engine. I am pretty sure it’s still some kind of lean issue (?)

Can you bolt on a 1.6 EFI?

Can you bolt on a 1.6 EFI?

Yes, if I had one I would. I would need all the factory smog stuff to go with it, and have it one-time ref approved, then the regular smog checks. If I don't figure this out fairly soon (and inexpensively), an EFI swap or whole motor swap might become a more serious option

Try the gas/alc. I think the ratio is 5 to 2 gas/alc. respectively. Alcohol burns alot cooler. You are braver man than me if you attempt to adjust one of these flippin carbs. Maybe we could find a shop with a mule and do a group smog, a fist full of $$$$$ and a few registrations - the good old days !

If you swap i personaly recomend a 16v. I have one and i just got back from Uncle Tom's cabin lastnite (well 4am today). I had great power the whole time! More power then traction by far!

btw there are two 8v 1.6s at picknpull on stockton blvd in sac

Since I have sidetracked my own build thread with a bunch of smog BS, I might as well keep it going.

I put a bottle of ‘guaranteed to pass’ in a full tank and set out to burn 10 gallons of gas. I drove in circles at Prairie City as long as I could stand it, plus 30 road miles round-trip. Only got through about 3.5 gallons in 5+ hours of trying to waste gas.

I had driving and camera duty, so just some poser shots
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5504.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5500.jpg

Mud :barf:

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5491.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/CIMG5496.jpg

I guess in the last few years I have been more interested in chassis/suspension stuff and got a little rusty on basic engine diagnostics.

I never really checked that the EGR would open when it should with the engine running, and it didn’t. :homer:

From Chiltons:

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/EGRschematic2.jpg

The EGR system used on the 1986-89 Samurai vehicles is composed of the EGR modulator, the EGR valve, a Bi-Metal Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV), and the Three-Way Solenoid Valve (TWSV).

The EGR system is controlled largely by vacuum as follows: the BVSV is mounted in the vacuum line leading from the intake manifold to the EGR modulator, and threaded into the coolant passage of the intake manifold. The BVSV’s main function is to sense engine coolant temperature, and to open or close based on the coolant temperature. When the engine coolant is too cold, the BVSV closes, thereby stopping engine vacuum from reaching the EGR modulator.

The EGR modulator senses the amount of backpressure in the exhaust valve, and , in turn, controls the amount of vacuum applied to the EGR valve.

Mounted in the vacuum line from the EGR modulator to the EGR valve, is the TWSV. The main function of this component is to block vacuum from reaching the EGR valve when the ECM deems it necessary (depending on transmission gear and operatation of the heating-air conditioning system). Therefore, the vacuum must travel through the BVSV, through the EGR modulator and through the TWSV before it reaches the EGR valve.

If vacuum is allowed to reach the EGR valve, it pulls the EGR valve pintle up and off of its seat, thereby allowing exhaust gas to flow into the intake manifold.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/EGRschematic.jpg

Cliffs Notes:
Manifold vac-->thermal vac switch (BVSV)-->vac modulator-->ECM vac switch (TWSV)-->EGR valve.

3 things needed for vacuum to reach the EGR valve. I couldn’t get the EGR modulator or the TWSV to pass vacuum under any circumstances. Then I broke the BVSV putting it back in, so 0 for 3. Bypassed all three, and the EGR worked, so that’s what I did. Looped the bypassed part of the system into itself to pass visual, as you will fail if ports are missing lines, or lines are loose. *Disclaimer* This makes the EGR valve open anytime during acceleration, including when its cold. This was for smog check purposes only, I am sure it could cause damage.

At first I dismissed adding Denatured Alcohol to the gas tank, but after some research it seemed it might help lower combustion chamber temp a bit. I mixed about 1.75 gallons of premium with about .75 gallons of the alcohol into the empty gas tank. *Another disclaimer* This was also for smog purposes only, and can probably cause damage. It also made it run like crap

A little of what I learned this week. High NOx is really only because of excess combustion chamber heat. There can be a few causes of excess heat. The EGR’s purpose is to cool the combustion chamber in order to reduce NOx. Carbon deposits in the engine can cause ‘hot spots’ and also produce excess NOx. Running lean, overly advanced timing, poor fuel or blocked coolant passage in the head can also cause excess heat/NOx.

One more trip to the smog station. Also I left the radiator fan on (instead of thermo-on like I had been) as it will run quite a bit cooler running full time. I am guessing that contributed to HC’s being higher, but they were still under the limit

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/smogpass.jpg

Congratulations! Your Vehicle passed the enhanced Smog Check inspection, which helps California reach its daily goal of removing an extra 100 tons of smog forming emissions from the air. Thank you for keeping your vehicle well maintained

You’re welcome :flipoff2:

It passed! :D

I bet no EGR is why i failed. I have an vacuum modulator that i hope works and i got a free cat! i have to go install it all now. i hope i pass.

I bet no EGR is why i failed. I have an vacuum modulator that i hope works and i got a free cat! i have to go install it all now. i hope i pass.

With everything else I did, I am pretty sure my EGR not working right is the reason I was failing too. If your modulator's bad, its easy route the vac lines around it at least to pass smog. One vac line off the carb,T'd to the vac advance and directly to the EGR. The rest just looked pretty for inspection

Good job on the pass...

Nice to see you take the time and initiative to figure out the EGR problem.

I'm no "GREENIE"...(We're lucky, we have no problems with smog Nazi's here..."yet" no one cares about our dirty little trucks so far.;)) just very cool to see you do it right.

EGR's are little understood and much hated/feared little "necessary" emiss devices.

Your pending EFI swap will be a breeze, (you know your gonna' do it :D).

We all do.

My 1.6 16V Vacuum Switch Valve (VSV) or TWSV for the 1.3 carb'd. (Pictured.) It is staying engergized when its at operating temp. This is the vacuum shutoff for the EGR. If i unplug the VSV it opens up and allows the EGR to work properly. So i have a wiring issue it seems now WTF:mad3:

Persistence paid off, congratulations. Now drive the crap out of that thing!

What a fawkin headache! I'm thankful it is not like that around here yet. If you have a non California model is it harder to pass this shit?
I have an all stock 1.6 efi from a 94 Tracker in my Sami, I wonder if it would even pass.

So you plan on driving to all the trails or were you just enjoying the challenge of passing smog? :flipoff2:

Good job on the pass...

Nice to see you take the time and initiative to figure out the EGR problem.

I'm no "GREENIE"...(We're lucky, we have no problems with smog Nazi's here..."yet" no one cares about our dirty little trucks so far.;)) just very cool to see you do it right.

EGR's are little understood and much hated/feared little "necessary" emiss devices.

Your pending EFI swap will be a breeze, (you know your gonna' do it :D).

We all do.

Thanks. I wouldn’t give myself too much credit on doing it ‘right’ though. Yes, it did pass the full CA emissions test, and I might be a lot more legal than others, but I can’t deny playing a few tricks to get it through.


Why are you so sure I'm gonna do it :laughing: EFI (or propane if I can keep it legal) has always been the plan, just a matter of when. With 2 years of breathing room from the smog nazi’s, now I can patiently wait for the right deal



My 1.6 16V Vacuum Switch Valve (VSV) or TWSV for the 1.3 carb'd. (Pictured.) It is staying engergized when its at operating temp. This is the vacuum shutoff for the EGR. If i unplug the VSV it opens up and allows the EGR to work properly. So i have a wiring issue it seems now WTF:mad3:

Sorry, my brain is completely saturated with this emissions stuff, I keep forgetting you have a 16v. Sounds like you’re almost there. I can say from experience you will be very relieved when it passes

Persistence paid off, congratulations. Now drive the crap out of that thing!

Don’t worry, that’s what its for. Thanks again for the previous info, the ATF thing did make it run better. My buddy scolded me for not knowing about it, I guess it’s a pretty common old school tune up method

What a fawkin headache! I'm thankful it is not like that around here yet. If you have a non California model is it harder to pass this shit?
I have an all stock 1.6 efi from a 94 Tracker in my Sami, I wonder if it would even pass.

I’ll have to dig up my carfax, but I am pretty sure my Samurai was originally sold in Arizona. I know lots of other make/models with CA cars and 49 state cars, but I haven’t heard of Samurai’s doing it. Doesn’t mean they didn’t though, I’d be curious

So you plan on driving to all the trails or were you just enjoying the challenge of passing smog? :flipoff2:

I just enjoyed the challenge :flipoff2:
Lots of reasons. I generally won’t drive it to the trail, but I like to know I can. When ever I am messing with something, or adding something new, or it hasn’t run in a while, its nice to drive it around the block or through the neighborhood without worrying about getting pulled over. It makes it easier to insure as well. I also like to take it grocery shopping, just because :D

Like everyone, our trails here are always under scrutiny. There are *certain* local trails that have old rumors of denying green stickers and requiring full registration. I have also heard rumors of green stickered rigs getting ticketed for touching pavement (where snow from the morning had melted) while loading onto a trailer. Hearsay and rumors for sure, but I’ll take the small headache now and avoid the potential bigger one later

What a fawkin headache! I'm thankful it is not like that around here yet. If you have a non California model is it harder to pass this shit?
I have an all stock 1.6 efi from a 94 Tracker in my Sami, I wonder if it would even pass.

So you plan on driving to all the trails or were you just enjoying the challenge of passing smog? :flipoff2:

NO! its easier if its a 49 state federal truck because it will still go by the federal standards even in cali.

I saw you driving in Folsom the other day...I would be very careful of the commercial cop in Folsom. He drives the ford super duty truck. He has been known to red tag wheelers before.

How bad do your front tires contact the links under full lock? I'm currently designing my new front suspension. Sweet build, nicely done.

I saw you driving in Folsom the other day...I would be very careful of the commercial cop in Folsom. He drives the ford super duty truck. He has been known to red tag wheelers before.

Thanks for the heads up, I will watch out. I do know that a short list of fix-its is inevitable, but the longer I can prolong it, the better

How bad do your front tires contact the links under full lock? I'm currently designing my new front suspension. Sweet build, nicely done.

Thanks :)

Short answer: not bad

The stock birfs bind just as the tire goes into the link, and the steering stops are set right before either one happens. Maybe 3/8” clearance at full lock
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/linkinterferenceresize.jpg

In the real world, there has been a little rub, I would guess from low PSI and tire deflection. I have never really felt it though, nothing like a lug grabbing a leaf spring

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/linkinterferenceresize1.jpg

I see pics, good pics. That is very good to see.

cool, thanks for the info and pics. I remember the low backspaced wheels from an earlier post, are you also running a widened front axle or wheel spacers?

cool, thanks for the info and pics. I remember the low backspaced wheels from an earlier post, are you also running a widened front axle or wheel spacers?


No problem. I am running Sky’s IFS Hub Conversion (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=127)

For the lazy:

79-85 Toyota Solid Axle Widening Kit:

What this spacer does is allow you to run IFS wheel hubs on a straight axle front end. IFS wheel hubs wheel flanges are offset further to allow the front ends of these trucks to match up to the rear, which is 58 inch's wide. A pair of these CNC machined spacers is needed to adapt either your current solid axle rotors and calipers, or the upgraded IFS V6 calipers and FJ-60 series vented rotors. We supply all needed hardware to bolt this spacer to the rotor, dowel pins are no longer used as the adapter has been threaded to use factory solid axle alignment bolt.

Parts included in this kit:
2 Wide Axle Spacers
2 hub seals
12 low head socket cap screws

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/skyskit1.jpg

Parts you will need to supply:
2 IFS Toyota wheel hubs
2 Toyota vented fj-60 Rotors( reference year 1984).
IFS Calipers, late model V6 Four Runner is the largest.
You may also use your factory solid axle caliper and rotor if brake upgrades are not wanted.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/skyskit2.jpg

Due to slight variances in Toyota wheel hubs this may require machining the ifs hub slightly to flush fit the spacer on the back side of the IFS wheel hub.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/skyskit3.jpg

Text and photos from Sky’s website

That answers my questions. I'm also running an ifs width front but with standard backspace wheels. Looking at 40's and wondering how much rubbing I'll have on my links if I outboard them like you did. Looks like I'll have to get creative or look at new rims. Thanks again.

doesnt have your bottom links jsut running strait try to make you wheelie?

doesnt have your bottom links jsut running strait try to make you wheelie?

:confused: If that was a serious question, please translate

Weight

I got the Samurai on to some scales the other day. Some prior honest guesses: I would have said 25xx lbs stripped down but wheelable, and 2800-2900 lbs fully loaded without passengers.

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/weight.jpg

3240 lbs ?? A little shocked that I was that far over 3,000 lbs, I started to think and add it all up. A heavy wheel/tire combo(4x130=520lbs), long and heavy lower links, full body (doors, tailgate, windshield, etc) and loaded with gear. Some of the things that were weighed that ‘could’ come out:

spare wheel and tire – 125lbs
Tools, spare parts, recovery – 80lbs
Doors (2) – 72lbs
10.6 gallons gas – 66lbs
Windshield (frame and glass) – 42lbs
Tire carrier – 29lbs
Hi-lift – 28lbs
Tailgate – 24lbs
10 quarts spare fluids (4 motor oil, 4 gear oil, 2 ATF) – 17lbs

That would bring weight down to about 2750lbs , maybe a little more reasonable for comparing to rigs that get stripped down for the scales, but I don’t imagine I would ever wheel it that light. Add cooler and camping gear, and 3300lbs+ is probably a realistic fully loaded weight (without passengers). Considering my axles/wheels/tires alone add 700+ pounds to the stock 2095 lbs, maybe it’s not as bad as I first thought

Front to rear was 1580/1660 lbs, 48.8%/51.2%. The rear weighs more than the front. With the spare and hi-lift hanging off the back, I was curious if the rear would weigh more. Eventually I will get a winch up front, but add passengers and some camping gear, and the weight bias favors the rear even more. I don’t think it means too much, just interesting to see

your zuk just looks mean lol. i love the stance it has, too bad something like that would never be anywhere near street legal where i live.

ive been looking into building a tin top, but just havent picked one up yet mostly due to money issues lol. i found one with a solid body and a no longer running mecedes diesel engine swap, but cant realy afford to go pick it up.

hey when you built the rockers did you end up cutting into the floor area or just butt it up against the wall behind the outside of the factory rocker?

hey when you built the rockers did you end up cutting into the floor area or just butt it up against the wall behind the outside of the factory rocker?

I didn’t cut any of the floor out. The 2x4 is up against the side of the foot well. I managed to find some old pics
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rockerbuilding1-1.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rockerbuilding2.jpg

And current. I guess after a year I should paint a few spots, the flash sure shows the rust :flipoff2: (spending the night outside, as there is another ‘project’ in the garage :()

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rockerbuilding3.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rockerbuilding4.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rockerbuilding5.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/rockerbuilding6.jpg

The foot wells do hang down below the rocker. When I was stock wheelbase/leafs/32’s, I don’t think I ever hit it on anything. Recently though, its has hit and drug a few times, and the pics show it. A couple of the cage feet bolts have been ripped off. On the list of winter projects is to re-do the foot wells, completely remove the body mount, and re-do the cage foot and cage/frame tie-in.

do u happen to have pics of how u cut your fenders when u had the 31s on? thanx

do u happen to have pics of how u cut your fenders when u had the 31s on? thanx

I was less thorough documenting back then, but I dug up a few that show some

flares removed with fenders uncut

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/flaresremoveduncutfenders.jpg

front cut

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontfendercut.jpg

both cut. I just followed the line on the fender

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/bothfenderscut.jpg

This cut does separate the inner and outer fender. I just beat the inner back, and eventually removed the front inners completely (don’t forget it’s your battery mount too, ask me how I know)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/frontfendercutmoonrocks.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/bothfenderscutbarrett.jpg

thanx, do u ever go up to chappie ohv by the shasta dam anymore?

Saweet!!
Keep the photos comin!

thanx, do u ever go up to chappie ohv by the shasta dam anymore?

I haven’t been to Chappie in a few years. I am in the area somewhat regularly though. PM me if you’re wheeling out that way and want company, I’d like to go back sometime

Saweet!!
Keep the photos comin!

Thanks, but all I have been doing is posting old pics, I haven’t really done shit since I started this thread :flipoff2:

I did buy a couple of things last week

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/LONGS.jpg

And since I just made my single largest out-of-pocket purchase (longs and hub gears)…

A current cost analysis:

At the begging of this thread I said ‘prices will be included as much as possible’, so I began to add up how much $ I have in to this. Now I kinda want to bitch out of posting this :flipoff2: , but I will have to get over it.

This is an ‘as it sits’ cost. Not including: parts I am no longer using, things bought more than once, tools, consumables, general maintenance and repair items, etc. (there is an easy 2k worth in those categories). This list does date back 4 years. All of the big-ticket items are there, but some random stuff from the hardware or parts store is likely missing in itemized form. It is hard to factor in things traded for, and other things like my case gears that were funded by an insurance check, and repairs I did myself. I am listing what I paid, not necessarily out-of-pocket cost. Used parts are listed for what I paid for them. I have tried to include tax and shipping costs, but haven’t always been on top of adding that in. So some prices include it, others don’t.

Samurai - $1300
TT 6.4’s - $719
pile of Yota parts (complete axles, geared and locked, steering, wheels, driveshaft, IFS hubs and brakes, more) - $650
Longs - $635
tires(5), SX's - $400
Bestop 2 piece - $300
JJ's RH 1.25" shank CE-9114 - $280
JJ's RH 1" shank CE-9113 6 - $210
cage - $200
Odyssey PC925 - $180
Kong - $180
IFS hub conversion - $180
bead locks - $179
shocks Doetsch Tech 8000 Pre-runner shocks - $170
lower link material 2.00 .250 DOM 20ft - $168
abs panels - $160
misc flat bar/plate - $150
seat covers - $150
electric fan, flex-a-lite 110 - $150
long hub gears - $130
kenwood cd - $130
hydro assist surplus center - $122
cb - $120
uhmw, mcmaster - $120
Bed liner, gun, prep - $120
tube adapters RH 1.25" 12tpi 2" OD 1.5 ID 8 - $119
steering hose parts polyP, PSC - $110
rat adapters, rock 4x - $107
front axle rebuild - $100
steering arm - $100
Windshield fold down, TT - $100
ARP knuckle studs, cones, washers, nuts - $90
front output, Davez - $90
frame/bumper material 2x4 .120 20ft - $87
fastenal, counter sink and bolts, hardened washers - $85
upper link material 1.50 .120 DOM 20 ft - $83
tire rack - bushings, tire mount, tube - $80
Case mounts - $75
new hi lift H/LHL-484 - $70
tube adapters RH 1" 14tpi 1.5 OD 1.25 ID 6 - $66
coolant lines flex lines PolyP - $65
panhard material, 1.50 .250 DOM polyp - $60
soft brake lines, 2 more 300ZX lines, NAPA - $55
new tow strap, pro comp 2x30 - $51
silver stars - $50
front shaft 1 piece toy rear - $50
panhard rod end, XM-12 3/4" CrMo rod end w/ kevlar liner 2 - $50
tail lights - $45
lug nuts, gorilla black 28 - $45
tube 1.5 .120 20 ft - $42
Alt and bracket - $40
hardware, more 9/16 bolts/nuts washers Fastenal - $37
PS cooler flexalite 3880 - $36
jam nuts, 1.25 12 RH ballistic 8 - $34
fuse box, misc 12VGuy - $32
safety washers 3/4" 12 - $32
tube 1.5 0.95 20ft - $32
4x4 sending unit, suzuki john - $27
diff breathers, psc - $25
junction box/wiring - $25
beadlock bolts - $25
reverse switch - $22
tube adapter, 1.00 ID 1.5 OD 3/4-16 RH 2 - $22
rear tub, scrap 16g - $21
Marlin front seal - $21
skid frame, 1 1/2 square .095 -$20
tj springs - $20
plumbing fitting, straight fitting for box surplus center - $18
roll cage padding, KIR-99001 (3ft lengths, black) - $18
alt belt - $16
jam nuts, 1.00 14 RH ballistic - $16
terminal block - $15
coolant temp sensor, vatozone - $14
brake line exten., 10mm 40" for rear - $12
hi lift handle holder - $11
alt. wiring - $10
ps belt, vatozone - $8
caliper bolts, marlin - $7
universal spacer, 3/4 hole, 7/16ths thick 4 - $6
fan switch frys -$5
CB mic hanger - $4
jam nuts, 3/4 RH 2 - $4


$9613

How much was the sheet of UHMV (correct name?)?

Nevermind....i missed it in the list the first time through. How thick is it? And what are you planning on backing it with?

A current cost analysis:

This is an ‘as it sits’ cost.

$9613

That's pretty neat...most guys don't like to keep track of all the "little" stuff... then tell you they only have X# of $'s in a rig. (I know I'm guilty of that :D)

It all adds up pretty fast.

Loving this build. Very cool ideas:grinpimp:

How much was the sheet of UHMV (correct name?)?

Nevermind....i missed it in the list the first time through. How thick is it? And what are you planning on backing it with?

No worries. It is ½” UHMW (Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, I had to check my receipt to make sure I said that right ;) ) It will be framed with 1 ½ .095 square tube, no other backing. Full write-up coming. I have all the materials, hardware, etc., just gotta get other peoples junk out of my small garage, and it’s on. (not a complaint, that’s what’s funding me!)

$99.39, 36”x36”x½“ UHMW from McMASTER-CARR (http://www.mcmaster.com/#8752K135)

I swear I bought it in black, but apparently I am retarded

$112.xx for the same thing in black (http://www.mcmaster.com/#4296a64/=5h96ie)

A current cost analysis:

This is an ‘as it sits’ cost.

$9613

Well summarized!

That's pretty neat...most guys don't like to keep track of all the "little" stuff... then tell you they only have X# of $'s in a rig. (I know I'm guilty of that :D)

Thanks, I’m glad somebody else at least considers what the little stuff costs :D I have seen similar rigs with 20k+ costs, and others that claim 2k. I did my best to keep it realistic

10k is a hard pill to swallow, but it is over 4 years (it was my DD for 2 of them, and 10k included 1.3k for the vehicle). I still very much consider this a ‘budget build’, lots of parts were used, and NO labor cost.


It all adds up pretty fast.

It damn sure do
I wouldn’t want to have to sell it for $9613 :flipoff2:

Loving this build. Very cool ideas:grinpimp:

Sharing is caring, thanks :)

10k is a hard pill to swallow, but it is over 4 years (it was my DD for 2 of them, and 10k included 1.3k for the vehicle). I still very much consider this a ‘budget build’, lots of parts were used, and NO labor cost.



That's how I try to look at it too. It seems like a big bunch of change, but then the hobbies that most people blow money on are just as expensive when you break it down to a per year cost. Wheeling just leaves more to show for it when all is said and done, so it's easy for people to say "you spent HOW MUCH on that dented up thing that can hardly even drive down the road?" :D



I wouldn’t want to have to sell it for $9613 :flipoff2:

Sadly, around here I'd bet you'd be lucky to get that for it. Selling modified vehicles never gets you a good return on your parts cost, nevermind all your time and effort, unfortunately.

Sadly, around here I'd bet you'd be lucky to get that for it. Selling modified vehicles never gets you a good return on your parts cost, nevermind all your time and effort, unfortunately.

I agree, I think that's part of what I was trying to say. I guess I will just have to wheel it :D

¡la nieve!

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0048edit2.jpg

It was well above freezing (40°F or so?) making the snow a little bit wet and heavy. The snow falling was almost rain at times. Overall good weather though

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0074.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0077edit.jpg

A Jeep right where it belongs. If there was a pic of me on the other side of the strap, I can’t seem to find it :flipoff2:

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0039edit.jpg

This wheel/tire combo is still pretty new to me. I have run 4-5psi in the rocks and felt even a little less would be better. First snow run for these, and I started out at 1-2psi. They looked like they should be lower, but didn’t want to go too low right away. I ran that pressure for a while, but after some seat time, it felt like the pressure should be lower too. Relatively light weight and a stiff side wall I guess. Down to zero we go



http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0066edit.jpg

Whoops :laughing:

This happened right after the second air-down, and none of the other tires had a problem at that same pressure for the rest of the day. I wonder if the valve core didn’t re-seat right and leaked(?) I won’t really know until I play with the pressure and get some more time in.

Finally reached virgin snow, but it was just too deep and wet to cut new tracks. I did try though!

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0058edit2.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0062paintedit.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0059edit.jpg

the pic of you rescuing the jeep is classic. you need yo start a tally system or something on the side of the sami to show how many jeeps you've rescued.

D boz, just read through your whole thread again, and I must say this thing is completely awesome!

Finally reached virgin snow, but it was just too deep and wet to cut new tracks. I did try though!

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0058edit2.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0062paintedit.jpg

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0059edit.jpg

I think you need chains:flipoff2: that is some serious snow right there.

Wow what a great build. Very nice rig.

D boz, just read through your whole thread again, and I must say this thing is completely awesome!

I think you need chains:flipoff2: that is some serious snow right there.

Wow what a great build. Very nice rig.


Thanks, I am not ignoring you, (actually, :flipoff2: chains) just haven't had too much worth updating. I have a few things going, when it is worthwhile, I will share

Yes, I sure didnt mean to hyjack your thread. Great build and a nice rig.

*edit

clean up

I normally try to keep my posts factual (right or wrong, good or bad), but WHAT THE FUCK does that have to do with my build? Obviously that is not even your Samurai. I will give you the opportunity to delete your post, and I will delete this one. When I run out of patience (and I don't have much), you'll be reported.

Derek



I already reported his sorry ass! Fawkin newbs:shaking:

D boz, love the rig great stance!! that thing turns me on a bit :D

CRD, WTF you posted in like 10 threads all with pictures all within 25 minutes of each other post a build thread or something and give your head a shake :shaking:

Yes, I sure didnt mean to hyjack your thread. Great build and a nice rig.

Good thing I was quick on the 'quote' button :flipoff2: I said I would delete, and I will, but maybe my patience will extend an extra day or two for my own entertainment


I already reported his sorry ass! Fawkin newbs:shaking:

Thanks man, I was just going to ask a you a midplate question, but I will direct it to the appropriate thread :D



I can't stand adding nothing worthwhile, so here is a crappy preview picture

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy206/DBozsPictures/IMGP0285.jpg

Ok I deleted it. And it is my samurai. How about doing what you said youd do now. Hmm.