Pretty sure someone asked this earlier (with no response) but does anyone have any experience with these?. . . http://www.bonefishfab.com/

what about some kind of Kingpin conversion and ditch the BJ's all together?

what about some kind of Kingpin conversion and ditch the BJ's all together?

Then the u-joints/R&P/inner C's become the weak link, and you've spent a few hundred more $$.

As shitty as it seems, I keep coming back to the premise that it makes more sense to use a dana 60 (or 609 style to save weight) front axle.


It would seem as though a front axle for moderate-serious wheeling will cost 1500-5000, whether you put that investment into a polished turd of a 44 or a dana 60 and the extent you build to would be at the discretion of the owner.

Then the u-joints/R&P/inner C's become the weak link, and you've spent a few hundred more $$.

As shitty as it seems, I keep coming back to the premise that it makes more sense to use a dana 60 (or 609 style to save weight) front axle.


It would seem as though a front axle for moderate-serious wheeling will cost 1500-5000, whether you put that investment into a polished turd of a 44 or a dana 60 and the extent you build to would be at the discretion of the owner.
ok but u havnt actually answered my question. would some form of kingpin conversion be stronger than ball joints?

i am an easy going wheeler with a light weight rig. a D44 fits my needs very well. the only thing stronger components do for me is give me piece of mind. for those who are consistently breaking 44 stuff i would be inclined to agree that a 44, in the end, is still a 44.

To everyone that is breaking these ball joints, Did you notice any play in the ball joints before they broke? Is anyone breaking these on there own without first breaking an axle shaft which probably broke a ball joint? I ask because if you are noticing some play you can just loosen everything up again and perform the proper torque sequence and get the proper preload back. I know it's a pita but seems cheaper than replacing them everytime.

Still no answer from the people that seem to be breaking them.

The king pin coversion and the bone fish product may be stronger but if you break a shaft and it rips the top of the lower joint off it doesnt matter what joint you have there. the lower joint then seperates causing the upper joint to then snap. If my assumption is incorrect please correct me. It seems that the real prooblem is u-joint style shafts, go rcv and quit worrying about ball joints.

I have broken 2 shafts in mine and both of them did not damage the balljoints. My main issue with the BJs is life span. I would love to have something that would last longer. And now that I have seen those bonefishfab joints they look like the ticket.



Has anyone used the bonefish fab joints?

I too am interested to hear if any one has any experience with those Bone Fish Fab joints... the look neat.

I too am interested to hear if any one has any experience with those Bone Fish Fab joints... the look neat.
Interested as well. I have never even heard anything about this company.
Anyone know anything about them, or anyone running their BJ?
Something else I think is a little strange. I know they say the bronze bushing is there for movement but the ball joint is a solid peice right?
Wouldnt you need some type of joint there to align the steering knuckle to the Cs?
The bronze bushing will let it move back in forth (for steering) but not in and out. Does that make any sense?

if you break a shaft and it rips the top of the lower joint off it doesnt matter what joint you have there. the lower joint then seperates causing the upper joint to then snap.

Wouldn't running an axle tube seal like the ones Superior or AlloyUSA sell, help? It could work like a support for the inner shaft when it brakes keeping it from beating the snot out of the ball joints?

I think it's more of the fact than when the u-joint breaks, it tries to force the ears past each other. I suppose it could help, if the part that inserted into the tube was thick enough to allow minimal movement after a break. But as they are I don't think they would do much.

The bonefish fab joints look sweet. I wish they were available for a HP30! I may have to e-mail them.

Newest issue of CRAWL says they're comin soon for the d30 but there's a thread in gen4x4 explaining the weak spot of those units. Seems like Poly has it figured out.

I could run a set of Poly's on one side and a Bone Fish set on the other to test them...hmmm :D

Newest issue of CRAWL says they're comin soon for the d30 but there's a thread in gen4x4 explaining the weak spot of those units. Seems like Poly has it figured out.

I could run a set of Poly's on one side and a Bone Fish set on the other to test them...hmmm :D

Since you read the thread in Gen 4x4 why would you even consider the Bones ?

Because you can kill a design on a drawing board a thousand different ways but that does not mean it won't work in a real world application. By design, bumblebees shouldn't be able to fly, but they're in the air anyway. ;)

I would order a set of the Synergy ball joints if they were shipping earlier than December or February...

I would order a set of the Synergy ball joints if they were shipping earlier than December or February...

Do they have the synergy BJs available for the d44? I cant access the poly site at work and quadratec only shows them for a 30.

By design, bumblebees shouldn't be able to fly, but they're in the air anyway.

:shaking:

Sorry, what I meant to say was...

A lot of things work good that really shouldn't. As a random and completely unbiased example, big green chevy trucks, look terrible and don't even belong on the trail. But, they're still there looking like giant snot colored boogers dragging their way to the finish.

Better? :flipoff2:

This message is hidden because gtxracer is on your ignore list.

:flipoff2:

Cool, he got the message.

WOW!!!! THIS IS TAKING WAY TO LONG.:flipoff2:

WOW!!!! THIS IS TAKING WAY TO LONG.:flipoff2:

Ballistic Fabrication is the company you are dealing with. What do you expect, on time service ?

So, I wonder... since ballistic is dropping the ball (again), how much would you guys be willing to pay for truly bombproof ball joints?

We have begun to work a few more prototypes. We won't release into info or data until we're confident that we have a solid product. Preliminary components are for a Dana 44 and we do not have any idea on pricing yet.

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww274/BallisticEng/Parts/44UpperandLower.jpg

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww274/BallisticEng/Parts/44UpperandLower1.jpg

i know it's a preliminary drawing but is it possible to drill the stud portion of the upper ball joint for a grease fitting instead of putting it in the body/cup area of the joint. I know the upper ball joints i have now have a grease fitting in the lower cup but i had to put the plug in it instead of the fitting due to the axle shaft clearance. Do you guys think it is possible without causing to much strength loss in the stud?

I don't see why not at this point.

I would rather see the zerk right where it is.
If the stud portion of the ball joint has a tunnel down the center, there goes the strength. (compared to a solid stud.)

If you have a problem getting the grease gun on it when its on the bottom of the "cup" portion, then take your tires off. If you are already greasing up everything, why not open up your hubs and clean those at the same time.


BF-
Would these carry any kind of warranty? Dont need a timeline but to know that if something happens that they can be replaced would be a big deal.


Keep it up..

I would rather see the zerk right where it is.
If the stud portion of the ball joint has a tunnel down the center, there goes the strength. (compared to a solid stud.)

You're talking a couple percent of the cross sectional area for a gun drilled grease channel.

After looking at the drawings, we've decided it would be best not to drill the studs. These joints will require routine maintenance to keep any play out of the joints and this would be an opportune time to remove the plug and install the grease zerk anyways.

what kind of routine maintenance? how often? and can they be maintained while on the vehicle?

what kind of routine maintenance? how often? and can they be maintained while on the vehicle?

We'll have all that information when they're ready for release