I am planning on doing the Firebird Master cylinder swap on my Sammy. My queston is this. What fittings do I need to put on my Sammy lines or is there any adapters that will work? Yes, I have searched. Thanks!

I don't know couldn't tell you, but I can tell you this, stock suzuki fittings fit into one of 3 gm 1/2 ton calipers. if you get the right caliper, suzuki fits it. perhaps it'll fit without an adapter?

All I did was cut off the sammy ends from the 3/16" brake line, then went to the parts store and told them to give me fittings to get to the new Master which I had in hand, then slipped em on and re-flared. The firebird master has fairly large female holes so I just adapted up to fit it...oh and dont forget to weld up the hole on the bottom where it connects to the booster!

Kevin

Well I got it installed today. I tapped the small hole in the MC and put a set screw with loctite and rtv,ed it when I put it on the booster.

Now my pedal goes to the floor just like before. I have bled the brakes. I am out of ideas. Any advice? Thanks!

Your pedal will be stiffer than with the samurai m/c. It will be harder to push but you will gain more braking. I am running v6 yota front calipers/rotors and v6 rear drums/shoes. Check your fittings again for any loosness and leakage. Did you bench blead the m/c before you put it in? If not, you will be bleeding for a long while til allll the air is out of the system. HTH

Kevin

I have not gained anything. I did bench bleed the m/c. I am going to pull my rear wheels off tomorrow and check the rear calipers.

I guess I should have mentioned that my Sammy is sitting on Dana 44's with 1/2 ton Chevy disc brakes, front and rear.

Keep trying to get the air and out and double check everything for leaks.

I am running the same MC with toy vented rotors, 4 piston calipers and chev discs in the back with no problems

How did you adjust the plunger? What I did is let it out a bit farther than you think it should be, then dry fit the master onto the booster and feel it rock a bit with the plunger being the pivot. Keep backing the plunger off just until the master fits flush onto the booster with no rocking. Thats where you want it to fit. Good luck man, brakes can be a bitch sometimes.

Kevin

Are your bleeder screws at the top on the rear calipers? If not, unbolt the caliper and put something between the pads and bleed them with the screws at the top.

How did you adjust the plunger? What I did is let it out a bit farther than you think it should be, then dry fit the master onto the booster and feel it rock a bit with the plunger being the pivot. Keep backing the plunger off just until the master fits flush onto the booster with no rocking. Thats where you want it to fit. Good luck man, brakes can be a bitch sometimes.

Kevin

I did not udust the plunger. All of the threads that I read did not mention anything about this.

Are your bleeder screws at the top on the rear calipers? If not, unbolt the caliper and put something between the pads and bleed them with the screws at the top.

Yes, all bleeders are on top.

I am going to go ahead and replace the rear calipers tomorrow as the cost a whopping $16 each. I looked at them today and the pistons look as if the are out to far. They are out of the caliper body about 3/8" with no pressure on the brakes. I know that is not right.

I did not udust the plunger. All of the threads that I read did not mention anything about this.

The plunger is your pedal. There shold be minimal play between the two. Think about it logically for "they" don't mention everything and leave some things for "you" to figure out yourself. You are swapping a different m/c into your vehicle, therefore adjustments are a must. Good luck brother.

Kevin

The plunger is your pedal. There shold be minimal play between the two. Think about it logically for "they" don't mention everything and leave some things for "you" to figure out yourself. You are swapping a different m/c into your vehicle, therefore adjustments are a must. Good luck brother.

Kevin

There is if any at the most, 1/8th inch of pedal movement before the brake pedal comes in contact with the M/C. I think that is fine. I believe I found the problem. I have a small leak on one of the lines going to the rear. I am going to fix that tomorrow and bleed them again. Once I finish bleeding them, I am going to bleed them again and then bleed them just a little bit more......:D

Right on. Dont forget that the way the samurai lines are routed, the front drivers side will be the 3rd wheel to be bled and the front passenger will be the last.

Kevin

Right on. Dont forget that the way the samurai lines are routed, the front drivers side will be the 3rd wheel to be bled and the front passenger will be the last.

Kevin

Thanks!