I have a 1976 bronco with the disc brake dana 44 front end, i am putting flat top knuckles on for highsteer, however I ran into a bump in the road as the stock calipers do not fit with the flat top knuckles. I am trying to do this as cheap as possible. As of right now i plan to use the calipers and caliper stands from what i believe is a 1976 f250 dana 44, but the brake pads hang a 1/2" off the rotor. The logical thing would be to use the rotors off the f250 but they are 8 bolt and i would like to retain the stock bolt pattern.

So the question is what have others done on their EB for high steer and what brake setups do you have?? Should i just run the stock rotor or is there a larger diameter rotor with the 5 on 5.5 pattern?? pics would be awesome

And yes i have already searched for just over an hour now

http://bulletproofsteering.com/

A 78-79 bronco rotor should fit and they are 5 lug

A 78-79 bronco rotor should fit and they are 5 lug

Same as what he has

I used F150 Supercab knuckles and NWF high steer arms. AFAIK the supercab knuckles are the only factory ford ones you can use to get high steer without doing a chevy knuckle conversion to keep your 5 on 5.5" pattern. These knuckles also have a larger center opening so you can run the 297 sized joints vs. the 260.

Mines an EBD44 under a ranger.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/wahlstrom1/DSC00375.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/wahlstrom1/P1050058.jpg

same arms i am going to run on mine i think i might only run the one arm though just to keep the bump steer down. again trying to keep it cheap

what do you have for brakes on that??

simple and smart answer is to change to 8 bolt
there is no reason to keep the 5lug

why not run chevy disc brake conversion as well since he has the chevy knuckles?

the reason not to run 8 lug is cost i have tires mounted on 5 lug wheels, and as i said they are ford knuckles not chevy.

02 Dodge 1500 is 5x5.5 and the rotors are 13.23" diameter. Height is 2.66" though. You might have to open up the center hole. Only 3.09"

same arms i am going to run on mine i think i might only run the one arm though just to keep the bump steer down. again trying to keep it cheap

what do you have for brakes on that??


One arm, tie rod flip and draglink on the arm would be the way I'd go if I did it again. The tierod on those arms hits the coils when I turn sharp, kind of a pain in the ass steering stop...but I haven't broken a joint yet! Also hits my engine crossmember (needs trimmed anyways) under full compression, not sure it that'd be an issue on an EB.

Brakes are stock 79' F150 gear.

i plan to use the calipers and caliper stands from what i believe is a 1976 f250 Dana 44, but the brake pads hang a 1/2" off the rotor. The logical thing would be to use the rotors off the f250 but they are 8 bolt and i would like to retain the stock bolt pattern.


It's because you are trying to use the larger F250 brake system on a smaller 1/2 ton rotor, so no the pads won't correctly, nor do I think that caliper will clear your 15 inch wheels.

You could make a new caliper mount and see if you can pull the caliper closer to the 1/2 ton rotor.
IMO the best option is to sell all that shit, and go get some Chevy flattop outers. You just need the knuckle, spindler, caliper mount, and caliper. You get better brakes then Ford even designed, and you can go High steer.
High steer on an EB is another topic IMO. I run 42 inch tires and my tie rod has to go on the bottom side of a highsteer arm because it would fit the frame. Most EB's I have seen either notch the frame for highsteer or run a good amount of lift.

i think i will just run the rotors i have and maybe look into the dodge rotors.

I am not going to do a chevy conversion because i already have ford knuckles and everything.

As for not fitting a 15 inch wheel i believe a couple minutes with the angle grinder will make them fit will they not?? i have heard people can fit a 15" wheel on dana 60's and from the comparisons i have made the brakes I have are identical to those on a one ton.

And my tie rod wont have any issues hitting coil springs because i am running toyota landcruiser leaf springs in the front, however i will look into the frame clearance.

The calipers off the f250 are substantially larger than the stock calipers so the surface contact of the pads should still be equal if not greater than stock even with the over hang. What are thoughts on this??

i think i will just run the rotors i have and maybe look into the dodge rotors.

I am not going to do a chevy conversion because i already have ford knuckles and everything.

As for not fitting a 15 inch wheel i believe a couple minutes with the angle grinder will make them fit will they not?? i have heard people can fit a 15" wheel on dana 60's and from the comparisons i have made the brakes I have are identical to those on a one ton.

And my tie rod wont have any issues hitting coil springs because i am running toyota landcruiser leaf springs in the front, however i will look into the frame clearance.

The calipers off the f250 are substantially larger than the stock calipers so the surface contact of the pads should still be equal if not greater than stock even with the over hang. What are thoughts on this??
WHY?:shaking:...pics?

As for not fitting a 15 inch wheel i believe a couple minutes with the angle grinder will make them fit will they not?? i have heard people can fit a 15" wheel on dana 60's and from the comparisons i have made the brakes I have are identical to those on a one ton.



You can fit 15" wheels with those brakes, as long as the wheel is steel, has minimal backspacing and you really enjoy grinding, maybe a 1/4" spacer as well.

WHY?:shaking:...pics?

because i had coilovers in it and sold the suspension and now i am in the process of putting leafs under as cheap as i can (while still safe and strong) so it can be sold. the rear is done with chevy 63" springs, and now i am in the process of mounting the front springs. All of the frame mounts for links will still be in place as well as the lower link mounts on the axles so the next owner can do a coilover swap very quickly and easily. The springs are the same width as the frame so it should articulate quite nicely, and with a simple sway bar in the front im sure it will handle fine on road as well.

I know i know, now your gonna say dont sell your bronco. well my bronco has a custom fiberglass tub with door inserts and custom doors with no windows and to make a good sealed cab it would take way too much effort and time, and i just cant justify having a wicked crawler that can't be drivin on road anytime to show it off. I am 17 and i learnt alot on the build of my bronco, but now its time to sell it and buy a late 90's fullsize ford, cut it in half, reuse my 408 stroker and 2.5 ton steering axles under it. (where im from street legal is easy to make)


You can fit 15" wheels with those brakes, as long as the wheel is steel, has minimal backspacing and you really enjoy grinding, maybe a 1/4" spacer as well.

I have steel wheels and 1.250" wheel spacers and i definately have my experience grinding.

Here are some pics

in its prime

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/LanceDon/Broncopics007.jpg

the rear springs

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/LanceDon/63sonbronco2.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/LanceDon/63sonbronco.jpg

and heres my baby you could say
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/LanceDon/Project14.jpg