WELL, IT WAS ONE OF THOSE NO COFFEE-UP BEFORE YOUR USED TO MORNINGS, AND WELL YEH I LEFT A BIT LESS REINFORCEMENT ON MY SHACKLES THEN PLANNED....

ITS 3/8 PLATE SO IM NOT THAT WORRIED, AND THE SHACKLES ONLY TAKE STRESS ON THE WEAK PART DURING DROOP, BUT WHAT DO YOU THINK? THIS WAS THE LAST PEICE OF STOCK SO I THINK I'LL RUN THEM FOR NOW...

Run them but bring a spare..

I think you will be all right.

Lets say you have 3/8" edge distance and you said 3/8" plate.

Thats 0.14 sq inches cross section

Assuming 36 ksi steel and appropriate factor of safety

You are looking at about 2500 lbs shear strength for static loading.

Crawl on............

Originally posted by KMAN
I think you will be all right.

Lets say you have 3/8" edge distance and you said 3/8" plate.

Thats 0.14 sq inches cross section

Assuming 36 ksi steel and appropriate factor of safety

You are looking at about 2500 lbs shear strength for static loading.

Crawl on............

whoa, you smart......me not.......:eek: damn that beats the hell out of my "Run it till it breaks commment" :D

Originally posted by KMAN
I think you will be all right.

Lets say you have 3/8" edge distance and you said 3/8" plate.

Thats 0.14 sq inches cross section

Assuming 36 ksi steel and appropriate factor of safety

You are looking at about 2500 lbs shear strength for static loading.

Crawl on............


:eek:

Now figure your going up hill and have a 5000lb rig with most of the weight shifted to the back and your asking for a failure sooner versus later.....redo it correct or shall it fail at 3 am....in the dark......

Originally posted by coyote
Now figure your going up hill and have a 5000lb rig with most of the weight shifted to the back

In that case, the thin area (at the top) won't be taking the stress.. :flipoff2: Besides, 2500lbs x 4 is a 2x safety margin...

MAN, THATS WHY I LOVE THIS BOARD, YOU GET THE GUYS WHO CAN DO PHYSICS :)

ACCTUALLY, IM NOT TOO WORRIED ABOUT THE SHEER WEIGHT FACTOR, BUT MORE ABOUT THE FATIGUE APPLIED TO THAT AREA BY THE BOLT WHEN THE AXLE IS DROOPING AND WANTS TO TURN THE BOLT DUE TO THE ARC THE AXLE WANTS TO TAKE. IM GOING TO RUN THME AND CHECK PERIODICALLY FOR DEFORMATION THEN PROBOLY MAKE SOME NEW ONES WHEN EVERUTHING ELS IS BUTTONED DOWN.

That only applies on level ground....and unless your wheeling at the mall most hill climbs are off camber for me thus shifting the weight to the back and forcing the spring to turn and applying stress to that part....its close but I would rework it in the garage versus the trail....much easier.....

kman made a good post but I believe the shear number would be higher but its irrelevant if you read eskimos post which puts your margin of safety pretty high. do what you said run em and see what happens for that matter don't even worry about them. YOu also need to think of how much down force you axle can provide (real life numbers) Im guessing it is no where near 2500 pounds.

arndog

too much fukin math....just fukin slap somne paint on it....and haul ass!!!! it looks ok...just bring a spare if you want. but i think its fine

I have always gone by never going less than the radius of the hole. I.E. One inch hole; leave at least half inch of material for spacing to another edge. (End of material, another hole etc.) Not too scientific but a place to start.

In your case, I side with Coyote reworking metal is much easier in the driveway.

a couple of years ago,Nolen ripped the bottom of his frame horn off instead of damaging the shackle or hanger. But then again, we are talking about Nolen. He has some pics of it if you are interested.

Originally posted by rustyb
a couple of years ago,Nolen ripped the bottom of his frame horn off instead of damaging the shackle or hanger. But then again, we are talking about Nolen. He has some pics of it if you are interested.

I second that, I would be more worried about the frame horn/stock mounting than a marginal shackle. I just re-worked my rear shackles and was flabergasted out how thin the metal was the hanger mounted to.