Has anybody here ever torn apart an ARB locker? I think I'm gonna get brave and try to do my own gears (too damned cheap to pay for the shipping). I'd like to pull my ARB's apart at the same time, do all new O-rings and seals, since I'll have them out. Is this possible? Do I need any special tools? (beyond the press, bearing splitter, dial indicator, etc for gear setups)

Part of the problem is that these were in the truck when I got it, I have NO docs or install directions for them.

Am I crazy? :rasta:

If you are only changing the R&P and O rings, there is no need to disassemble the carrier. Other than the O rings and air line, installation is like any other LC carrier. Get the Toyota body and chassis manual. 1) Set the pinion depth to get the correct tooth contact pattern. This is the biggest PITA, but there are only 4 shim depth possibilities. 2) Set pinion preload. Get all 12 of the preload shims and take the ones back that you don't use. 3) Set ring gear backlash. It is hard to accurately check the backlash if there is too much carrier preload. 4) Add carrier preload to specified value 5) Recheck overall preload and tooth pattern.

It is one of those things that you tend to screw up the first time.

You need an inch-pound torque wrench for the preload measurements, but a small fish scale on one of the flange holes will work OK.

Thanks. I should have mentioned that I have all the manuals, plus all the tools except a decent dial indicator and base. I have an old mini-truck diff all apart now, was thinking I'd get a cheap install kit and give it a try, run it in the pickup to see how I did. The diff was free, so if I mess it up, no big deal. Might as well screw up a cheap one, right?

It just sucks that there is no place around here that I can trust to do this right, for a decent price. Shipping 2 diffs out to Randy's is just nuts.

Practicing on a spare diff is a good idea. Check the tooth contact before you tear them down to get an idea of how they should look. I hate to admit it, but HF has a pretty good deal on Chinese dial indicators for about $25 including the magnetic base.

The good thing about having all the shims on hand is that it makes it easy to get it right w/o spending a lot of time chasing down parts. You can just get thick ones and sand them down, but this takes time too.

Where do you buy the fish scale torque wrench for the pinion bearing preload?