Figured I'd start a build thread here since I actually got something accomplished.

How... I have no idea. But I managed to strip a ring gear and break a bearing cap on my front end. That combined with a howling rear end was enough for me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FML004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FML005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FML006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FML007.jpg

Then I found these locally for a fair price. They were complete less a rear caliper bracket, both front caliper brackets and a unit bearing. They're a matching set out of a 2003 SRW F-350. I chose this specific set for several reasons. They weren't my #1 or even #2 choice but a solid #3. The rear has a factory tone ring speed sensor for my speedometer and TCM. It also has factory discs. I also got both complete front and rear drive shafts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0017.jpg

Dodge 1500s use the same unit bearings on 4x2s and 4x4s so I've been running without my front diff.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0004-1.jpg

This was the WRONG way to get the axle out of the back.... but it worked. :flipoff2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0005-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0006-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0012-1.jpg

This was interesting. Notice the date on the drive shaft. :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0003-1.jpg

I removed the passenger side perch as well as the lower bolt plate for the factory panhard bar. I also notched the housing on the driver's side to accept a bracket I'm going to fabricate. I would have gotten more done today had I not been dealing with this (http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3328048#post3328048) most of that day.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0005-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0006-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/000_0007-1.jpg

The flanged hex head bolts are stock Ford stuff. I only got 2 and one caliper bracket with the axle. Of course I wanted 4 matching bolts so after sourcing a caliper bracket from a '99 F250 I went around the block to Fastenal and picked up the ONLY thing they had in stock that matched in length + thread. That lead me to having to find an $8.00 12mm allen wrench.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/_0004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/_0005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/_0007.jpg

I think I'm gonna cut the lower portion of this cross member off and then get some 5"x5"x.25" tube and slip it over the ends coming off the frame rails. It will be strait across rather then dip down.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/_0012.jpg

Was gonna do my damn best to get this swap done with out a 2nd driver. Better judgement got the better of me. I scooped up this gem for $500.

1994 Mazda B2300 4cyl 5spd. 1st tank netted 21mpg. 127,000 miles :D

Here it is in all the non-power steering glory.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/theMazda004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/theMazda001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/theMazda002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/theMazda003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/theMazda005.jpg

I scored pretty big. I found a guy that wants to rent out shop stalls in a 40x60. Its also heated and insulated.

$250/month includes:


Welder
Torch
2-post lift
2 80 gallon air compressors
Sirus Satellite Radio
Tire machine
All utilities

Moved into the shop spoken above previously. I got the 9.25" out and its sitting on the 10" and jack stands. Dodge bolts the spring plates to the springs. That means I won't lose them, because I don't even have to take them off. I'll need to drill out the perches as the holes are a hair to small. I also took some other pics of the shop to give an idea on its size.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/0072.jpg

This is the e-brake cable. If you look closely, you can see the little "sprung" teeth that need to be compressed. Once that's done, the collar can slide back and the spring forward, allowing it to come out of the bracket. The 10.5" looks to be the same way. Lets hope so.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/008.jpg

These perches are from Ruff-Stuff. They're cut for either 3.25" or 3.375" tubes (can't remember), but once you grind the nubs off, they fit 3.5" just fine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/009.jpg

My extra set of hands. :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/013.jpg

looks good so far.the front is what will be the fun part.
keep it up:smokin:

Looks like you're off to a good start. I'll be watching to see how this comes out since I've got a 04 1500 Ram.

looks good so far.the front is what will be the fun part.
keep it up:smokin:

Yea, the steering is what I'm most concerned with. I pretty much have the links and coil overs figured out in my head.

What is the gear and locker availability of those axles?

What is the gear and locker availability of those axles?

The only stuff that matters.

ARBs and Detroits, all the way down to 5.13s.

how much lift are you looking to get when its said and done

how much lift are you looking to get when its said and done

As little as possible. I'm putting 3" blocks under the factory leafs, and then a 2" longer shackle. Thats all I'm willing to do to the rear without spendy leafs, so I'll just make the front as level as possible.

These are the blocks I'm gonna be using. As you can see the locating lips on the end keep it from sitting flush on the Ruff Stuff perches.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0888.jpg


What it looks like ground vs unground.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0889.jpg

That problem is solved, but I still need to drill out the holes on the perch so it will sit down in it. I went ahead and drilled out all 3 holes on each perch because I never know what I may end up doing for axle placement.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0893.jpg

Almost looks like I bought them together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0894.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0897.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0898.jpg

I bought 2 fittings and a -3 12" (http://www.perfhosedist.com/catalog_i8000328.html?catId=293379) hose from Performance Hose Distributors. They had a -3 TO 10X1.00MM INV female (http://www.perfhosedist.com/catalog_i10305731.html?catId=292822) fitting that I needed (shown in fuzzy pics). The brake fitting I thought was going to be a PITA to find, actually fit perfect the first time. Sorry for the fuzzy pics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0903.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0904.jpg

I also ordered a -3 male to 3/8-24 INV male (http://www.perfhosedist.com/catalog_i10305493.html?catId=292814) fitting from them as well. Now I'm not sure If I got sent the wrong fitting, or if Napa's website is wrong. Napa lists the Ford soft line as having a 3/8" - 24 (http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=UP&PartNumber=381164&Description=Brake+Hose+-+Rear) end. The flares seem to match, but if you look close in the 2nd pic you can see the fit is way off. Its too small. The male adapter is .363" across the threads, and the Ford female hose end is .492" inside of the threads.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0906.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_0912.jpg

Subscribed, I DD an 04 quad cab, looking to see how this turns out.
I know of only one other SASed 3rd gen ram, he is on dodgetalk and paid a shop to do it for him, so usless to go to him for info.

can wait to see it in the dirt all twisted up! keep up the good work.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=720364&highlight=ce2flaco

here is a link to another 3rd gen 1500 SAS

can wait to see it in the dirt all twisted up! keep up the good work.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=720364&highlight=ce2flaco

here is a link to another 3rd gen 1500 SAS

Yep same dude off of dodgetalk, AFAIK he didn't actually do any of the work.

He may have paid a shop to do it, but to say he's useless for info is a pure falsity. I've talked with him on several different occasions. He's helped me out with different pics etc. He's a real cool fellow.

If you use a 3rd gen 2500 steering box the factory lines and steering shaft will bolt right up. I just drilled and sleeved the frame for the mounts. Heres a couple conversions for you I did.
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/42073/2781849430056933605S600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/41935/2187956400056933605S600x600Q85.jpg

I can't see the pics here at work. As far as steering, I was just about set on going with full hydro so I didn't have to dick with a box and drag link at all.

I had a friend email me the pics. I'd seen the yellow one before but not the black one. What front axles did you use? What about the rear tone ring? What suspension set up? Looks like regular coils on the yellow one?

I used Dodge 11.5 AAM rear axles so the tone ring is already there. The yellow one has a 79 Ford 60 with 12" Kings and the black one he wanted stock looking so the frame was grafted to a 2500 under the cab. Its got the 60 front out of my '02 with a hub conversion and detroit.

I used Dodge 11.5 AAM rear axles so the tone ring is already there. The yellow one has a 79 Ford 60 with 12" Kings and the black one he wanted stock looking so the frame was grafted to a 2500 under the cab. Its got the 60 front out of my '02 with a hub conversion and detroit.

What do you have for suspension (links, etc) on the yellow one?

you should really just remove the blocks and get a 6" longer shackle.

sweet.. subscribing to this.. should looks great when its done.

you should really just remove the blocks and get a 6" longer shackle.

For a shackle that's 10" from eye to eye? Are you stupid?

Subscribed, I DD an 04 quad cab, looking to see how this turns out.
I know of only one other SASed 3rd gen ram, he is on dodgetalk and paid a shop to do it for him, so usless to go to him for info.

LOL

You got me all figured out.
Dumb as a post i am.

:rolleyes:

What do you have for suspension (links, etc) on the yellow one?

He wanted it built for his wife to mud race so we just went with radius arm style links. It handles super tight for straight line stuff but binds really quick.
I guess there's no pictures of the x-member but we just cut it out and made a dimpled plate piece. Theres some more pics here so I dont hijack anymore!

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560490670jMBLbk

http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/32513/2162655460056933605S600x600Q85.jpg

For a shackle that's 10" from eye to eye? Are you stupid?

go with something like 8" and use a 1" block than, or lower the mount down or whatever i just wouldn't use a 3" block. And yes 8" would be fine, I have one on my truck. (Okay just about 8")

http://www.varsisstudio.com/64swap/DSCN8028.jpg

thats in my truck right now.

go with something like 8" and use a 1" block than, or lower the mount down or whatever i just wouldn't use a 3" block. And yes 8" would be fine, I have one on my truck. (Okay just about 8")

http://www.varsisstudio.com/64swap/DSCN8028.jpg

thats in my truck right now.

A 3" block really isn't THAT bad. I'll go to a 4" if I can't get the front low enough. If I meet wrap, I'll build an anti-wrap bar and wheel it. I will NOT go with a 5"+ block however. The longer your shackle is, the more lateral force it has to counter, and the longer it is, the weaker it is. Not only that, the longer it is, the more I have to account for axle placement.

Hey I think I still have the front driveline we built for it before the Atlas went in. Adapted for the slip at the case and 1350 at the axle.

Hey I think I still have the front driveline we built for it before the Atlas went in. Adapted for the slip at the case and 1350 at the axle.

Pics? how much shipped to 57702? pm me. :D

Haha.... have actually accomplished a little bit recently.


I got my pinion angle set and perches are welded on. U-bolts and rock rings are ordered and enroute. I also ordered 2 new front caliper brackets. Got the correct hose fitting I needed, all rear brake lines are hooked up. I drilled and tapped the inside rear corner of my perches for a 1/4-20 bolt to hold the soft caliper hose in place, much like factory. The e-brake cables hooked right up to the Sterling just like they came off the 9.25" so that made me real happy. I don't know if it works or not yet, but the e-brake pedal feels and releases the same as stock.

Progress, yes, anything pics worthy? Meh... not really.

Picked up these little retainers from Lowes. They do the trick.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/001-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/002-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/005-1.jpg

This was all that I used to hook up my brakes, 2 adapters and a hose.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/007.jpg

Dodge e-brake cable, Sterling e-brakes. :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/009-1.jpg

Productive day. :)

These are not my pics, but it shows what I started with. The tube is roughly ~1" long.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o230/DJ404564X4/FRONT%2060/front60024.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o230/DJ404564X4/FRONT%2060/front60025.jpg

These are my pics... sorry for the cell pics. My camera's battery was dead.

I started off by making a card board template.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091044.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091058.jpg

Top plate cut, ground and drilled.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091222.jpg

Front and rear plates welded on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091448.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091448a.jpg

Since I will be mounting my full hydro truss on this bracket, I thought a few gussets might not hurt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091407.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091445.jpg

I also don't want this contraption slipping, so i drilled the top for 2 1/2-13 bolts, about 3/4" into the factory leaf pad, and then another on the back side. I MIGHT go back and add one on the front. They will eventually be counter sunk and allen head bolts used. I just stuck those in to check my threads.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091635.jpg

I took apart my stock drive shaft at the CV and cleaned up the bell/slip yoke. I want to weld a flange with the correct bolt pattern to it, so it bolts to the 1350 CV from the Super Duty.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091706a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1212091706.jpg

So my speedometer problems won't be near as complicated as most SFA swaps.... I hope... haha.

So here is the stock Dodge speed sensor. I broke mine off when pulling my 9.25 out. :homer: They look the same, but the Ford sensore just unbolted and came out. The Dodge sensor unbolted, but would NOT come off, almost like it was fastned from beneath. No- I did not pull the cover to look.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/bwd/abs314-1.jpg
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/bwd/abs314-3.jpg

I still have the stock Ford sensor, but the plug is too different to try and make my pigtail work with it.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/mpi/vss60-2.jpg
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/mpi/vss60-1.jpg

I drove it a few weeks ago, that means the back is complete except for shocks. The speedometer worked perfect. Dead on with GPS @ 50mph. The drive shaft vibes pretty bad as I built it myself. I knew it would so no surprise there.

On the 8th I went and bought a bunch of brake hardware and fully assembled the Dana 60 making it a 100% complete axle except for one lock out hub. That was a motivational milestone for me, because I got it with both calipers, both rotors, one hub, and no front caliper brackets, hardware or pads.

FUUUUCK Ford dealerships when it comes to brake hardware.

I also scored a local deal on some tires. 37x13.50R17 Toyo Open Country M/Ts They're a little s,aller than I wanted to run, but I got a decent deal.

As far as my speed/abs sensor in my rear end goes, I got lucky. I just trimmed an ear off the Sterling, bought a new Dodge sensor and it slipped right in. With no calibration and 37" tires, the speedometer is dead on with my GPS @ 50mph.

Stock Ford sensor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_1022.jpg

Stock Dodge sensor interference.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_1024.jpg

The offending pieces.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_1025.jpg

Problem fixed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_1029.jpg

So yesterday was long, but productive.

I started by putting together a rolling frame stand. I needed this because I don't want to tie up my land-lord's lift for weeks at a time.

I used 2"x.187" angle iron for the bottom frame, 1.75"x.109" for the welded uprights, 1.5"x.109" sliding up rights, 4" channel for the frame perches, and 1" schedule 40 for the bracing. It turned out shorter than i wanted because I measured with the 245s on the front. :homer: But i made it in a fashion it'll take about an hour to extend if I want to sleeve it with 2" tube.

Notched angle iron. You might can lay the nicest bead ever seen, but if you can't make a nice joint, it's all for nothing. I used a pneumatic cut off wheel on the first one, but the vertical band saw proved to be much quieter and easier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000127AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000115AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000143AmericaDenver2010.jpg

The casters are 7" tall and rated at 600lbs each. Slightly under rated, but I think for the 20 feet they'll roll once a week, they might work. I sure hope so. :laughing:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000200AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000211AmericaDenver2010.jpg

After the frame stand was built, I set out to find a true and accurate, calculated center of gravity. This turned out to be a real bitch. I followed this website as closely as possible.

http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/cog/

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000041AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000026AmericaDenver2010.jpg

I had 37s on the back, and 245s on the front. I knew this would affect weight transfer so I made do with what I had. he hub height only ended up being less than 0.5" different.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000059AmericaDenver2010.jpg

After taking the needed measurements It was now time to lift the front. I needed at least 24" of space between my front contact patch and the ground, with my rears on the scales. Getting to this point sucked. It actually turned out to be very stable, but it looked and felt scary as hell. Will not repeat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000221AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000241AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14000253AmericaDenver2010.jpg

I only ended up with like 20-22", but I was satisfied with "close enough" at this point. My COG of height ended up being 50.3" from the ground. :confused: I thought this was a little tall, but I Googl'ed another website and plugged all my numbers into a spread sheet they had and it also gave me 50.3" sooo..... :question::question::question:

So today or tomorrow, I'm going to try to cross the point of no return and start cutting control arm mounts off. I've just about 100% decided on a true 3-link.

This a bunch of guessing based off one number. I knew that there was 45" between the inner-Cs on my D60. Everything else is a guesstimate based off that.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FriFeb12083351AmericaDenver2010.jpg

This me actually going out there and pulling tape for a few hours last night. I hope to have a third, more accurate number by tomorrow night.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FriFeb12083421AmericaDenver2010.jpg

At 100% AD the front end will not move under power or braking really. Alot of guys like 40-50% so that when climbing the axle sucks up to the frame and they are less likely to endo. 85% is fine though. It's all a guestimate really without a calculated COG.

Your roll axis is fine as well, 3* is expected for a 3 link.

However, just do yourself the favor and make your upper parallel with the length of the truck, not kicked off like that.

Based on this quote, I think I want somewhere between 50-60% AD because I do NOT want the front to jack while climbing, and I do NOT want to the rear lift a lot under hard braking.

As far as my roll axis being 6.63° and Kyle saying that -3° is normal for a 3-link... I have no idea... ::laughing:

Well today was long again, but still productive. I cut off the IFS bump stops, shock mounts, and rear LCA mounts. I left the fronts for now because they're part of a structurally vital cross member that I didn't have time to cut out tonight. I also left both UCA mounts because those will tie into my shock hoops.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14234945AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235012AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235024AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235045AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Next order of business was to fab a replacement cross member for that structural piece spoken about earlier. I started with a piece of 4.5" x .25" wall tube. The factory is 4.75" x .120" wall. It will sit between, and slightly below the frame, about 7-8" forward of the current one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235102AmericaDenver2010.jpg

The vertical band saw made things a little easier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235115AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235131AmericaDenver2010.jpg

I guess between all the moving around the ends opened up a bit, but it wasn't an issue.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235146AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Found some scrap .187" plate to cut some caps out of.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235157AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Not perfect, but good enough for a Dodge.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235219AmericaDenver2010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235229AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235239AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235301AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235317AmericaDenver2010.jpg

The whole reason for this cross member, is because at "way to tall height" the diff hits the factory cross member.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235337AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235401AmericaDenver2010.jpg

This height.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235412AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Nice crossmember. snazzier than the 2 peices of 1.5x.250 DOM I used for the same job.

So... another days work, more pics and new, more accurate link numbers.

I started by welding in the new cross member and getting rid of the old one. I was originally concerned that I had the new one to far forward and the frame would spread when i cut the old one out. It didn't move. :) That made me happy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15205633AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15205647AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15205907AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15205916AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15205937AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15205948AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Rear at full droop, front at approximate ride height. I think I'm going to have to end up with it a little taller.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15210002AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/MonFeb15210016AmericaDenver2010.jpg

And today's numbers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/mostA.jpg

looking good man. i like the front crossmember. Keep em coming.

looking good man. i like the front crossmember. Keep em coming.

Thanks man.

So I think I have a height problem.

With my upper link directly on top of the diff, this is as low as i can get it. That is assuming 1/2" of clearance between the top of the diff and the 3.0 Ballistic joint, using a 2" 7075 upper. Before anybody say to put it on the passenger side, I'd have the same issue, because my limiting factor the the upper link itself running into the motor mount. I have two of those. One's on the driver side, guess where the other is?

Max Bump ~ 28" from fender well top to hub center line.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/TueFeb16213043AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/TueFeb16220651AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Here is ride height assuming 5" of up travel ~ 33" from fender well top to hub center line.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/TueFeb16213025AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/TueFeb16213032AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Now here are a few more trucks with their respective ride heights and tire sizes; all from fender well top to hub center.

37s @ 32.5", roughly....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/100_2612Large-1.jpg

37s @ 34.5"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/IMG950101.jpg

42s @ 32.5"
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Cage/cage42001.jpg

I eventually would like to run 40" Krawlers, 40" LTBs, 42" Irocks or 42" Pitbulls... so with it set at a 27" hub-to-fender full bump, i have LOTS of room behind my almost new 37s. I'll post my new adjust 3-link numbers in a few minutes.

move the top link inboard, so it's between the motor mount and the oil pan, then the exhaust would be your limiting factor?

Just a thought.

I've never measured hub to fender on my truck, but I can tell you at full flex it's about 20" since every once in a while I'll find a clean spot from tire rub. At full bump it's probably 25ish, and around 30" at static height.

If you're aiming for 40s your 32" at ride shouldn't be too terribly nosebleed.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to play with the link calculator a little bit and see what I can't figure out. I think I can move the axle end in board a few inches to get it between the oil pan and motor mount, but the frame end will have to remain pretty snug to the inside of the frame due to my drive shaft.

Pics of the Motor mount location might help? I would like to visualize it. Maybe a bent link might have to help you? Also, what size is the tire you have right now on the truck?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/DSCN0632.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/DSCN0632.jpg

I think your best option would be build an upper that is bent and will clear the mount or Make a new mount that sits Higher on the frame giving you a good 6" extra clearance.

Nice build Kyle. Good to see the red truck getting put back to work (soon). Keep it up!

good shit man. now go change that pic of my truck. its false advertisement

Judging by that pic, does your diff hit the new crossmember at stuff? if not, are you saying that your upper link is the limiting factor at the motor mount? If so, cut that silly motor mount out of there on the frame end and make a rainbow one that is high clearance style. 2 1/4" plates capped top and bottom will be plenty strong if they have a huge step notch in them, much like a lowrider rear notch.

Judging by that pic, does your diff hit the new crossmember at stuff? if not, are you saying that your upper link is the limiting factor at the motor mount? If so, cut that silly motor mount out of there on the frame end and make a rainbow one that is high clearance style. 2 1/4" plates capped top and bottom will be plenty strong if they have a huge step notch in them, much like a lowrider rear notch.

Thanks for the reply Kelly. I'm looking forward to getting them installed.

That pic is outdated by a week or so. If you look to the left, and behind the motor mount, you'll see the old IFS pinion mount. I cut about 3" off of it. I think, at this point I have a ride height I'm comfortable with. I clear the 37s with an inch or two to spare so when I step up to 40s, I'll be sitting pretty. If it ends up to tall, I guess I know what the next step is. :laughing:

So some goodies came in on Friday. Saturday was wasted. Long story. It sucked. Today was productive.

I ordered some Ballistic 3.0 joints with the 1.5" shank, some 90° tabs, a frame end panhard mount and a Ford D60 truss.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28212743AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/FriFeb26212631AmericaDenver2010.jpg

As pictured earlier in the thread, I attempted to fasten down the 5/8" fine thread U-bolts with nordlocks beneath Grade 5 short nylocks. It didn't work.... or maybe it did. I don't know. Either way, I wanted 180lb-ft on them and the nuts stripped out around 120lb-ft.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204525AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204532AmericaDenver2010.jpg

I didn't like that. I went out and bought some standard height Grade 8 fine thread nylocks. I was able to suck them down to get a few threads above each nut. I didn't put the torque wrench on it, but I feel they're plenty tight because the 80 gallon air compressor kicked on after I let it fill up.

So this is what I started with when I went about making a 1978-79 Ford Dana 60 truss fit on a 2003 Ford Dana 60 axle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204546AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Your ability to make this truss fit a later model axle is 100% and solely dependent on your ability to operate a torch and a grinder. I goofed once, had to weld a piece back in, but all in all, I'm pleased with the result. In my opinion, a better/stronger option than putting the upper link on the passenger side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204637AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Against the advice of 3 well trusted friends, I welded up the inside of the front piece to the axle before I welded on the rear and top pieces. I'll explain why. The stress that the truss sees, is not trying to pull itself apart, but rather trying to pull it off the axle. I felt I gained more strength by welding as much to the axle itself as physically possible. Not to mention, with the weld seams fitted properly, you almost have to try to not get 100% penetration.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204651AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204705AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204717AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204728AmericaDenver2010.jpg

Another issue I ran into was the vent for the housing. I just simply drilled a 3/4" hole to allow a socket to pass through-- works perfect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204740AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204753AmericaDenver2010.jpg

All tacked up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204803AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204810AmericaDenver2010.jpg

And then the general idea after it was finish welded.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204832AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb28204845AmericaDenver2010.jpg

That's all for now. I ordered shocks on Friday. They have a 10-12 week lead time. In the mean time I'll build link mounts for the axle and frame, and possibly/hopefully order link/panhard material.

any new updates?

So I got my lower link cross member 99% built this weekend. It was more time consuming that I'd have liked for it to have been. I'm mostly* happy with the way it came out, and it shouldn't give me any problems once I tie it into the factory transmission cross member that sits directly behind it.

I started with a piece of .25" plate, 12" of 4"x4"x.25" angle iron, 12" of 0.5" Schedule-80 pipe, 20" of 6"x.75" flat bar, and 50" of 4"x2"x.25" rectangular tubing. Also pictured are the link tabs that I did NOT get welded on unfortunately.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/722a434f.jpg

The first issue I ran into, is where I wanted the frame brackets to go, the frame tapers. I knew it was going to taper a little, but not this much. I thought it was going to pose a serious problem, but a little relief cut in the webbing and a slight bend and it fit perfect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/af5c4746.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/233ebaa6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2c53db83.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1d95719f.jpg

After I got both pieces of angle iron slit, I then trimmed the corners off. I did this because I did not want to weld a 100% vertical weld on my frame. That would create a stress point.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/60e2d86f.jpg

Then I cut all four of the gussets I'd eventually weld to the frame brackets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/4bb158c3.jpg

Tacking them together allowed me to plot my holes only once, saving me a little time. It takes less than 30 seconds with the air sander to make it look like they were never there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/a1d86d11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/65ab8aa9.jpg

I then put the 6"x.75" flat bar in the band saw. I tilted it up at an angle because I was once told that it causes the blade to go dull faster when it has to cut long swaths of material at once.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/7134117b.jpg

Once I got the blocks cut, I trimmed the corners off, tacked them together and transfered the holes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/bd6c5716.jpg

Any good fabricator worth his salt knows rounded corners bring the pretty.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/4d5e2bc8.jpg

Next I split the ends of the 4" tube on the vertical band saw. To get the top half off, I put it in the horizontal band saw. To get around the little issue of it cutting at a constant angle, I shimmed up one side. Worked perfect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/218d902c.jpg

Then I cut out .25" plate for boxing it in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/d7ff84aa.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/42e49a8c.jpg

The joints weren't has nice as I'd have liked them to be, but the welds still came out OK though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/a7f1ad10.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/60642686.jpg

Once I got the plates welded in, I transfered the holes to the tube and used the T-handled drivers to keep my pattern. It worked OK*.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/73508a75.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/fa4a6e7e.jpg

Once I had all the holes drilled on each piece, I cut my 6 little sleeves.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/d5d18d74.jpg

I welded them in, and drilled them out*.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/239c3cf7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/9c803369.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/cd4c4e3c.jpg

In this picture you can see where I welded up the relief I had cut for the frame taper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/830b6651.jpg

I chose to only weld the blocks on 2 sides, that way if I ever need to remove them, I'm not hating life any more than I likely already will be. The welds only see the torquing forces from the tightening of the bolts, so there is more than enough to keep them from moving.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/5921c488.jpg

And then this is what it will look like from the bottom.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/76344aea.jpg

Ends capped, and right side up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/6252d358.jpg

IT FITS!! So well in fact, I can let the jack down and it stays with no clamp or weld on the frame. I wanted to get the frame brackets welded on tonight but ran out of time.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/8c06ad4c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/ac99bc56.jpg



*And here is were all the astrix come into play. I used 6, 1/2-13 bolts tapped into the .75" plate. Done correctly this would be PLENTY strong. Well... Between welding in the sleeves and drilling way to many holes, I ended up with a 5/8" ID on the sleeves. I'll eventually drill out the 1/2-13 threads for 5/8" threads and get 5/8" bolts, but for now, it will do exactly what I need it to, and thats get the truck driving again. Other than that, and the time it took, I'm pleased.

looks good man. Any more progress?

Not anything worth posting. I'll be out there working on it most of the day tomorrow though. Look for an update tomorrow night or Sunday night.

sweet BTW The bolts will hold just fine. I think you would shear the link mount bolt before one of those bolts.

Well these pics have about a 2 week gap in them between the driver side, and then everything else. I also didn't take as many pics of the "process" this time. Figured they may have been cluttering and boring to the thread.... so mostly just finished product pics. Every thing is just tacked on until I get it flexed and can check for clearances. Once I'm satisfied, I'll go back and add bracing, gussets and finish welding.

I started by laying out my link geometry on the floor. This would allow me to cut cardboard templates to use when jigging up my link mount brackets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/965e9082.jpg?t=1271675570
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/b187fe6a.jpg?t=1271675590
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/97c2f1c5.jpg?t=1271675605
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/4156b3ab.jpg?t=1271675624
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/a754bfef.jpg?t=1271675642
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/65f25ae9.jpg?t=1271675675
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2e11c267.jpg?t=1271675698
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/a9b880c3.jpg?t=1271675715

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/fbeb67ef.jpg?t=1271675762
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/e25e9eb0.jpg?t=1271675786
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1caeec25.jpg?t=1271675835
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/470b1180.jpg?t=1271675849
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2f3ed463.jpg?t=1271675864

I actually am up against the trans pan here. Not sure how much exactly either. Best case scenario, just hammer it in a little, worst case scenario, drop the pan and cut it and notch it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/816e2a14.jpg?t=1271675911
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/603b0295.jpg?t=1271675927

Also modified the Ballistic "Inside Frame Panhard Mount" to work on the outside of my frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/6b02ead7.jpg?t=1271675942
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/5e75641e.jpg?t=1271675987
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/cc5a9170.jpg?t=1271676002

Anyway to know what size whole I'd need to drill the in the bolt for this self-tapping zerk? :confused:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=58788&ucst=t

http://www.fastenal.com/web/showImage.ex?vo=ProductImagesView&voAttr=ImageContent&idColumn=Image_ID&id=112298&cache=1271708315084

Honestly I've used those before and just eyeballed it... It's worked everytime!

this (http://tinyurl.com/y3kcr2u) will tell you your needed bit sizes :flipoff2:

Looks like Q or R would be the correct choice, I'm seeing both. 11/32 is the closest fractional size.

and here's an exact answer for you
http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p=249651&postcount=5

but seriously, google that shit...

Great work :smokin:!

I'll be watching and taking notes on your linked front end since our rig's are about the same size.

Any thoughts on my next cross member design? This will be directly under the trans/engine mating area, so clearance is pretty tight. The tube is 1.75" OD. Not sure on wall thickness yet. Because it will be for my upper link, it's going to see torsional stress so maybe something thicker? .25"? The fish plates <=> for the frame are .25", as are the triangular gussets. The verticals, both off the fish plates, AND frenched into the tube will be .375". The space between the frame verticals will be .375". I'll use two 1.5" x 1/2-13 bolts per side to secure it in place. Thoughts? Ideas? Gripes? Suggestions? Survive Armageddon? Kill a bus of nuns?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/upper_crossmember.jpg

Kill nuns :flipoff2: putting the tube below the tab isn't the way to go. Way too much moment on all the mounts.

Is there any reason not to just sleve the frame and run long bolts through it, parallel to the tube running across, through flanges on the end of it? I'm sure that much like my Dakota, your frame has a funny shape there, but that could be built out to a flat surface for flange mounting.

Kill nuns :flipoff2: putting the tube below the tab isn't the way to go. Way too much moment on all the mounts.

Is there any reason not to just sleve the frame and run long bolts through it, parallel to the tube running across, through flanges on the end of it? I'm sure that much like my Dakota, your frame has a funny shape there, but that could be built out to a flat surface for flange mounting.

Thanks for the input.

Main reason for not sleeving the frame is I HATE drilling out of position. Anything I can do to get out of it, I will. :laughing: I thought at first making two gussets for each tab, and may yet still. I don't have access to a break, BUT, I might can still fold over the edges. I might just use a vice and hammer. Also, here is v2.0 of the end of the crossmember. By moving the tab to the center of the tube, rather than notching it into one side, and adding an end gusset, it should stiffen it up a lot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2point0.jpg

This is what you call getting very lucky. It still may not work yet, but after cutting 1.5" off my output shaft (2" still showing), it's looking very promising. 1410 on both sides of the bearing and 1350 at the axle. As you can see, I plan on spacing up the bearing.

YouTube - video-2010-05-19-20-33-18 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkkFZy0kzIE)

I gots me some goodies from the chocolate Santa!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/5d13a4d1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/1dceb7b3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2cb826bb.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/09522638.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/a71bfed6.jpg?t=1277945832

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/22466a98.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/619000bb.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/76faa857.jpg

What are the specs on those knuckles?

99-04 Ford Superduty knuckle, milled/drilled/tapped for high steer.

This thing still alive?

ORI Struts are worth every last dime -- and then some.

The front rides VERY soft, with the only body sway coming from the rear. I scooted across washboard gravel road and even 1ft-ish whoops at 30-40mph and never bottomed out. I'm running 330psi over 120psi and I got VERY lucky with these numbers. I have 7" of shaft showing on a 14" shock (was shooting for 5.5"). Front fenders are 47" and rears are 46". I may end up switching to a 2" block and letting nitrogen out of the upper chambers to lower it an inch, but it works SO good it's scary to mess with it. I only want to do so because I think it's a hair tall and it takes A LOT of force to compress the struts during articulation. The bad -- the front carrier bearing is either worn out or I need to raise it up 1/4" or so. In 4x4 (only going forward, not reverse -- weird) the bearing flexes... probably 1/2-3/4" and cause the yoke to rub the Ballistic Joint. It sounds terrible... like a hammer welded to my drive shaft. The Spicer lockouts also need some massaging, that or I need to figure out how they go together. I also need to build a better reservoir. Lesson learned on this one -- circle track reservoirs (even tho they have the correct fittings) do not work that well off-road. I need to build one with baffles and one that seals. It pushed out past the lid and the can. It's ALWAYS foamy. I did everything I knew to bleed the steering. I put the truck on jack stands and turned the tires with a pry bar. That helped a good bit, but still has plenty of somewhat predictable dead spots. I also need to get the caster checked and set. I'm running 3/8" toe in and that also helped (from 5/8" toe out). The entire engine bay and under carriage is covered with 20wt hydraulic fluid. At least none of my work will be rusting any time soon. Pics coming in the next post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-00-35_477.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_14-35-55_289.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-00-56_87.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-17-33_698.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-18-50_614.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-17-47_909.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-20-23_513.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-23-29_5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-23-45_179.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-24-03_713.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-35-40_327.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-46-03_163.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-46-21_792.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-46-55_549.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-47-05_296.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-49-16_430.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-58-30_58.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_16-58-47_154.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-03_17-03-27_26.jpg

Looks really good Kyle. Nice work
The only thing I can think of for your reservoir might be if the fluid is re-introduced into the res from the system above the fluid level in the res it might foam.

Looks really good Kyle. Nice work
The only thing I can think of for your reservoir might be if the fluid is re-introduced into the res from the system above the fluid level in the res it might foam.

That its exactly what's happening, Jeff. The return line is probably 1/2 to 3/4s of an inch from the top of the reservoir. The fluid is an inch or two below the return.

Some more pics I took last night. One is for size reference; stock Silvy on 18s.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-06_20-29-41_963.jpg

In these others, I was able to lift a rear tire and still had 4" of shaft to compress on the driver front, thus tempting me even more so to let some upper pressure out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-06_20-23-44_217.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-06_20-23-24_38.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-06_20-23-17_80.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-06_20-15-00_738.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-06_20-14-21_788.jpg

Circle track reservoirs DO NOT work in an off-road system.

I built a new reservoir today. It made a WORLD of difference. No more dead spots. No more pump whine. Literally, one finger steering standing still. VERY responsive, like in emergency evasive maneuvers. Still has a TINY bit of wonder at higher speed, but I still haven't set my caster yet.

Very very pleased with current setup.

I have new battle scars. I had a blast. More pics to come as they get uploaded from others who went.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_09-27-18_737.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-11-59_668.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-12-08_498.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-13-03_635.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-13-14_825.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-13-35_778.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-25-52_916.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-13-52_126.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-26-04_907.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-30-12_715.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_14-37-23_973.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_12-37-08_112.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_16-05-09_420.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_16-10-14_107.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_18-50-59_561.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/2011-06-18_18-51-13_888.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8801.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8802.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8803.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8804.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8805.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8806.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8807.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8808.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8809.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8810.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8811.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8812.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8813.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8814.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8815.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8816.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8842.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8843.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8844.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8845.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8846.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8848.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8852.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8853.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8854.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8856.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8857.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMG_8860.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMAG0141.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMAG0143.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMAG0172.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMAG0173.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMAG0174.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/Jake%2018%20June%202011/IMAG0175.jpg

Nice pics Kyle. I like the pic with all the mini trucks in the line up then there is your big fat fullsize, hahaha.

Is this hardcore enough for Pirate?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-26_13-21-45_229.jpg?t=1309116475

Is this hardcore enough for Pirate?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/2011-06-26_13-21-45_229.jpg?t=1309116475

nope :flipoff2: needs to roll down a hill first.

Ooops...Where did ya roll it at?

on the way to looking like mine!

Damn you beat the shit out of that thing!

Hi.

It's a good idea to keep things rubber side down. I managed to do so.

Lockers coming soon. Had fun this weekend.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268012_10150710625655578_533910577_19623808_589147 3_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284837_10150710627220578_533910577_19623847_765285 _n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268200_10150710639540578_533910577_19624028_753641 7_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/268292_10150710639610578_533910577_19624031_240501 _n.jpg

lookin good kyle, nice work...

lookin good kyle, nice work...

Thanks man. Steering arms are holding up great! :smokin:

Question.... Those press on seals on the outer shafts on these 99-04 axles. Do they have ANYTHING at all to do with the steering U-joints? Like for example... keeping the proper (minimal) pre-load on the rear of the unit bearing against the snap ring on the inside? Thus, if the seals were NOT there, the U-joints might/maybe rattle something FIERCE with the hubs locked in? I'm chasing down a rattle in my front axle and this is my only thought right now.

no, but there should be a grey plastic thrust washer between the stub and the unit, then two washers and a "stopsign" washer on the outside before the snapring goes on..
think i have posted up a pic of these somewhere before, i will look..
edit: here ya go, do you have all these?

I have all the outer pieces, but I doubt if I have the round washer with lateral grooves in it. Could that cause a rattling of the U-joint?

yep... that would allow the shaft to have like over 1/8" lateral movement- with the auto hubs, they will unlock and do weird shiat without that in there...
also make sure the little bearing is there in the unit to support the inboard side of the stub..

dude it's in your driveline, check your intermediate shaft out of the t-case.

yep... that would allow the shaft to have like over 1/8" lateral movement- with the auto hubs, they will unlock and do weird shiat without that in there...
also make sure the little bearing is there in the unit to support the inboard side of the stub..

Thanks.

dude it's in your driveline, check your intermediate shaft out of the t-case.

It makes this noise without the front drive line in place.

like with nothing (including the t-case yoke) on the t-case front output?

My mid-ship shaft was still in place, but the front piece was not. Put it in 4x2 and the mid-ship will not spin. Rattling still present with truck in 4x2 and hubs locked.

hmm