Finally got the time to start putting things together. I wanted to get busy this weekend but got called in Friday morning for an oil spill off the coast of Louisiana and everything got put on hold, worked 35 hours in 2 days, luckily that's all it took so I made it home pretty quick.

Enough of that crap, on to the build.

This all started when the chicom clone rear sight on my poboy boom stick loosened up and lost a detent. Should have been a cheap and easy fix, get a decent rear BUIS, throw it on there and call it good, but what's the fun in that? A $50 fix turned into a metric shitton of cash and hopefully a much better rifle.

Here's the parts so far.

BCM Mid length chrome lined upper
BCM BCG
BCM Gunfighter charging handle Mod4
Troy TRX Extreme 13" full floater tube
Troy HK style folding front sight
Troy Folding rear sight
Stark grip
Boonie packer Redi-Mag
PWS FSC556 muzzle brake/flash hider
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar02.jpg

First order of buisness was to take things apart. Lots of folks seem to have trouble removing the taper pins from the front sight block. If you've ever tried it, you know they like being where they are and can be a bit stubborn to remove. For some reason folks think that you need to use the proper size punch to remove them, this is what actually leads to problems. Forget using a 1/8" punch, grab a big ole flat tipped punch to get things started. I used a 5/16" punch. There will be at least a nubbin of the taper pin showing on the small side, smack that sucker with at least a 24oz ballpeen hammer to get it started. Here's the punches I used, big one to start it moving, small one to get it outa there.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar03.jpg

And here it is all broken down. Keep in mind, this is all brand new stuff, the upper hasn't even been put on a lower yet. Notice the front sight block, that's a future project.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar04.jpg

Before we get to the front sight block though, it's time to true up the upper reciever. This is going to make the barrel mounting surface perfectly flat and true to the inner bore of the upper reciever. The jury is still out on taking the time to do this, but I figure it can't hurt, so why not take the time to do it? Supposedly it will help with accuracy, but I see the main benefit as prolonging the life of your bolt. How so you ask? Well, if the bolt is not running true to the barrel extension, then stress is not being applied evenly to the locking lugs. Since locking lug cracks are one downfall of high round count AR's, everything you can do to make life easier for your bolt is a good thing. Having pressure applied evenly to the barrel mounting flange can't hurt either.

Here's the lapping tool inserted in the reciever and loaded up with lapping compound, I used 800 grit.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar05.jpg

The tool is a VERY tight fit in the reciever to index it, a thin lube should be doused in there so there is not damage to the interior of the upper reciever. Slide it in place, lube it up, load the flange with lapping compound, and spin that sucker with your drill of choice using light pressure and medium speed.

Here's a pic part way through. I got a bit carried away and should have stopped earlier to take a pic to show the surface partway through better. As it is, you can see that the silver ring is uneven in its width, there was actually annodizing left from 7 oclock to 1 oclock when this pic was taken, it's just hard to get a good pick of the shading.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar06.jpg

Here it is upon completion, notice the shiney ring is even all the way around, the barrel mounting surface is now perfectly flat and true to the bore of the upper reciever.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar07.jpg

Next up is fixing that front sight block. Since I'm installing a rifle length floater tube on a 16" barrel, the FSB needs to be cut down to fit under it. The first time I did this, bad juju happened, so here's my old post about shop safety.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=721204&highlight=

This time there was no carnage, so here is the new low profile gas block. Remember this was a standard AR front sight when I started, not bad for only using a 4.5" angle grinder if I do say so myself.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar08.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar09.jpg

No pics of installing the barrel in the upper, not much to take pics of. Used a little moly grease, torqued it to 40 lbs, then tightened it enough to line up the gas tube. It took a lil bit as I made sure the gas tube was perfectly centered in the 4 leaf clover opening in the upper, but I got it. Next was reinstalling the gas block.

Pins in to make sure it was in the right spot.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar10.jpg

Then drive em home, dont be scared, give em a goon thrashing with a punch and ballpeen.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar11.jpg

Next up was installing the Troy full floater tube. Piece of cake to install. Slide it over the barrel nut, rotate it just a touch to line it up with the reciever rail, and tighten two screws. Overall, I dig the feel of the rail, it's light as all git out, has a nice thin profile, and is grippy. I am a bit dissapointed by a couple things though. First is the top rail is just a fuzz taller than the rail on the reciever.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar12.jpg

The second is the stop block that is supposed to index the top rail to the reciever. To get the rail perfectly aligned with the reciever, the stop block is not touching the reciever, I had to back off of it just a touch to get perfect alignment.

Next up was throwing the flip up sights on there, complete nobrainer, just put them in place and tighten. I'm looking forward to trying out the HK style front sight, the theory is the curved sides of the sight will act as a circle in a circle sight picture for close up quick shots.

You can also see the PWS FSC556 muzzle brake. This took a bit to time correctly, it comes with a shim pack with 3 different thicknesses of shims. The large will account for approximatly 180* of rotation, the middle is good for 45* of rotation, and the smallest is about 20* of rotation. Mix and match until the top of the brake is where it needs to be, it takes some trial and error.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar13.jpg

Rear sight is standard Troy BUIS. While I was tempted to try out a standard Troy front sight and their new diamond rear sight, I just couldn't make that leap, I'll let others be the guinnea pigs for that one.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar14.jpg

Since I don't have a new lower reciever or lower parts kit yet, I threw it on my current lower after installing the Redi-mag and Stark grip just to see how it was going to feel. The lower is a DPMS, with a DPMS lower parts kit, ACE ARFX stock, Phase 5 Tactical extended bolt release, and a bit of trigger polishing by your's truely. Add in the Millet DMS-1 scope with throw lever, and a Bobro mount just for shits and grins.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar16.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar17.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar18.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar19.jpg

That's about it for the time being, next episode will be a new lower with trigger work, captured detents, and putting that Redi-mag on a serious diet via a drill press and dremmel tool.

Guess I should add in what I think of this stuff so far, might as well make it a review of sorts as well. I've already shared my thoughts on the DMS-1 scope, throw lever, and Bobro mount, so search bitches.:flipoff2:

BCM upper and BCG:

Quality gear, they have built a reputation for taking care of customers, and top of the line stuff. If you care about charts and all that crap, they are the equal of Colt.

BCM Gunfighter charging handle:

Very nice latch, the handle is redesigned compared to a standard charging handle to redistribute stress to the handle itself instead of having all the force focused on the rollpin holding the latch in place. Just enough extension to make it easy to rack the bolt with one hand.

Troy sights:

DAMN! I was of the opinion that they were over rated and over priced, after all, it's just a damn sight. I had a clone chicom copy of a Troy rear buis, and let me tell you, the real thing is 100% more solid, no wiggle at all. It actually takes a concentrated effort to flip them up, and once up they are rock solid.

Troy TRX-Extreme rail:

Pretty damn nice. Tolerances between the barrel nut and rail are nice and tight. Very light. Don't care much for the difference in rail height in comparison to the upper reciever. Would also like to see them make the indexing lug thicker so that it required filing to get a perfect fit with the upper instead of having it just hanging out there when the rails are perfectly aligned. Love the feel of it since it is a smaller diameter than the normal FF tube and has a hell of a grip to it.

PWS FSC556:

Have to wait till I get to shoot it for a review.

Stark grip:

This is the grip I've been waiting for. As a primarily pistol type of guy, I hated the AR's grip angle and how thin it was. While shooting the AR, my hand was down by the bottom of the grip, and trigger finger was ending up at the first knuckle instead of the pad of the trigger finger. Sure I could concentrate on my grip, but rapid fire ended up with my grip changing due to how small the AR grip was, even with an Ergo grip. The Stark allows me to sink the grip into my hand until the web of my thumb is tight to the grip, and lands the pad of my trigger finger just where it needs to be.

Redi-Mag:

Seemed like a gimmic at first, but I tried a mag coupler and saw the merrit in having an extra mag on the rifle. This accomplishes that with out the drawbacks of coupled mags. Reloads are quick with little practice. Drawbacks are it's weight. I'll remove a bunch of metal from it to lighten it up, but there's no getting around the extra pound from a loaded 30 round mag hanging there.

Phase 5 Tactical extended bolt release:

Another gimmic type part, but one that I feel is going to revolutionise the AR platform. I had problems with the first version I recieved, the bolt didn't want to lock back on the last round. Called the company, and recieved a new lighter version that so far has been flawless. Operating the bolt catch with your firing hand just comes naturally for me, way easier than the stock type, really makes the AR platform ergonomically better.

Think that about covers it until I make it to the range and get some more parts to play with.

Good lookin' rifle. That Troy rail is nice!

I never thought about the bolt lugs, that is a good point for the truing.

I really like your low profile gas block.

I think the rail heigth differences are a big deal. I would be calling someone and complaining.

On the flash hider, why not just toss the spacers and use a crush washer?

Thanks Sam, I'm diggin the way this setup feels so far.

Thanks Pete, I am thinking about giving Troy a call tomorrow to see what they say about the alignment issue.

To tell ya the truth, I didn't even think about using the crush washer since the shims were in the package with the comp. I'll probably end up swapping them out for a crush washer eventually just for grins.

If I ever get the time, I'd like to do a comparison with a shot timer to see what the difference between shots is with a carbine vs middy, and comp vs flash hider. Dunno when I'll get the chance though, work has been crazy lately.

I guess a thumb rest is a trade off for an ugly handgrip. :flipoff2:

Good lookin' rifle. That Troy rail is nice!

i love my troy rail.... kwranglin... any reason you didnt go with the 13.8" quad rail? I have one on my 16" upper and i really like it, both the looks and the feel.

I imagine the one you have is less weight...

good looking shooting iron..

I guess a thumb rest is a trade off for an ugly handgrip. :flipoff2:

Since this one doesn't have a blue upper reciever, I figure I have to have something on there for folks to give me shit about.:flipoff2:

i love my troy rail.... kwranglin... any reason you didnt go with the 13.8" quad rail? I have one on my 16" upper and i really like it, both the looks and the feel.

I imagine the one you have is less weight...

I'm just not a fan of a bunch of rails that aren't being used. If I was running a foregrip, lazer designator, light, bipod, secondary optic, etc that needed a bunch of rails it's one thing. Having miles of rail that I have to then go out and spend money to cover just doesn't make sense to me. The TRX-E rail came with the full length top rail, and two 2" sections of bolt on rail, and one 4" section that I can put only where needed. I may at some point try out a bipod so will bolt a chunk of rail on the bottom, but that's it. I realise that it's a different strokes for different folks kinda thing, I just prefer the lighter sleeker tube with a narrow profile.

Took the new upper to the range today to make sure everything was going to run right. Damn thing runs like a swiss watch. Right about 500 rounds through it today with zero issues of any kind, even after doing the unthinkable and running brass cased ammo after shooting steel cased ammo. Shot a mix of Wolf Military Classic and Federal bulk. Kept things at 50 yds or less, just seeing how reliable things were going to be, and couldn't be happier.

Shot 100 rds of the Federal, then dumped 120 rds of Wolf as fast as I could pull the trigger and change mags, followed immediatly by 120 of Federal as fast as I could shoot it. I need to start wearing gloves, damn rifle was a touch warm.

Rest of the range trip was plinking, finished up with a 1.75" 50 rd group at 50 yds with some reloads I picked up when I got my first AR.

The PWS FSC556 compensator makes a heck of a difference. Didn't get to time it, forgot to put the timer on charge last night, but can really tell that the scope image doesn't jump around nearly as much as with a normal FH on it. Very little correction for the next shot. The folks in the next lane didn't really care for it too much though, said it had a pretty good blast, moved the guys spotting scope at one point.

The only issue of the day was my scope magnification throw lever loosening up, have to put some lock-tite on it when I put it back on.

Time to order some more ammo.

Got a couple new additions, so it's update time.

I know I said before that I was going to reuse the ACE ARFX stock, but I ended up changing my mind. Doing a bit more active shooting (stuff besides being in one position, a lot more moving and different targets) I decided I'd like some adjustment back in my stock. In addition I've done some reading and thinking about rifle balance. One of the strong points of the ACE stock is it's light weight. Sounds great, lighter is better right? Well, not always. Having a bit of weight in the stock can offset the muzzle end making it seem lighter and easier to drive from target to target. Figured I might as well try out the theorie, so got a new stock that has a bit of heft to it, and adjustability. As an added bonus, it should make TRH cry a lil inside.

Enter the Magpul UBR.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar24.jpg

The other addition is the sling. Boonie packer has some outstanding gear, they don't charge shipping, and have great customer service should you ever need it. The sling I got is the Tactical quick adjust 2 point. It comes without attachment hardware so you can buy what you need. The best part about this sling is the price. Where the other guys are chargeing $40-60 for this sling, Boonie Packer sells it for $15.95. I set it up with a quick disconnect sling swivel on the butt stock, and an HK hook on the floater tube. The quick adjustment is great, grab the tab and pull it to tighter or loosen, piece of cake. I'd like to come up with a better mount for the front, but for the time being the 2" hunk of rail will have to do with an MI mount.

Next up is a Spikes Tactical ST-T2 buffer to try out, but it's going to wait till I've done some internal work on the new lower whenever I get around to getting it. The ST buffer is filled with tungsten powder instead of individual weights, so it's supposed to smooth things out a bit since it has less abrupt changes in direction due to the weights banging around in there. Same principal as a dead blow hammer. We'll just have to wait and see how it works when I get it to the range.

Finally is a CMMG .22 conversion kit with 4 CMMG .22 mags. Can't wait to try this out so I can shoot for cheap at the local indoor range instead of driving an hour to the rifle range. Updates to follow.

I just got in my first UBR for a PBB member. Very nice, but I was shocked at the weight.
Very nice design, but the thing must weight over a pound

edit: went ahead and placed it on the postal scale - 36oz, 2.25 lbs for a stock :eek:

It is a bit weighty, but does good things for balance.

Ever held a directors baton or whatever they call those lil sticks the guys leading an orchestra wave around? They have a relatively large weight on the end held in the hand, which makes the other end seem to float. Same principal. The rifle itself may be heavier, but the muzzle just want's to snap to where you want it because the weight is behind the firing hand and held close to the body.

In the near future I'll be pulling the Redi-mag off to test out a mag coupler, while I'm at it I think I'll put the Strikefire on instead of the 1x4 scope to see how it handles when it's as light as possible. It's not a lightweight setup the way it is, by a long shot, but I don't have a postal scale to see just how much it actually weighs.

I just got in my first UBR for a PBB member. Very nice, but I was shocked at the weight.
Very nice design, but the thing must weight over a pound

edit: went ahead and placed it on the postal scale - 36oz, 2.25 lbs for a stock :eek:

Is 36oz a typo? Either your scale or Magpul's is a lil off. Here's what they list it as on their spec page, yall have a difference of 3/4 lb.

Specifications**

Ø UBR™ Stock (w/ Rubber Butt-Pad, 0.30”)

o Weight, w/ Entry Receiver Extension: 1.56 lb.

o Length, Stock: 8.00-11.30 in.

o LOP Adjustment: 7-Position (0.56 in. / position)

o LOP Adjustment Range: 3.3 in.

o LOP, Collapsed (M4/M16): 10.9 in.

o LOP, Extended (M4/M16): 14.2 in.

I just got in my first UBR for a PBB member. Very nice, but I was shocked at the weight.
Very nice design, but the thing must weight over a pound

edit: went ahead and placed it on the postal scale - 36oz, 2.25 lbs for a stock :eek:

the problem i have with them is the price. i think all the other collapsible stocks are way too light anyway.

the problem i have with them is the price. i think all the other collapsible stocks are way too light anyway.


That's why this is the BLING build.:grinpimp:


this is a complete 180 from my first AR which was done as cheap as possible.

not a typo. I don't think it's off, I have never had anything kicked back. I wonder if the weight on a new jar of peatnut butter is correct?

Is 36oz a typo? Either your scale or Magpul's is a lil off. Here's what they list it as on their spec page, yall have a difference of 3/4 lb.

Specifications**

Ø UBR™ Stock (w/ Rubber Butt-Pad, 0.30”)

o Weight, w/ Entry Receiver Extension: 1.56 lb.

o Length, Stock: 8.00-11.30 in.

o LOP Adjustment: 7-Position (0.56 in. / position)

o LOP Adjustment Range: 3.3 in.

o LOP, Collapsed (M4/M16): 10.9 in.

o LOP, Extended (M4/M16): 14.2 in.

Sorry to bring a dead thread back up, but I'm curious about that Boonie Packer sling. Did you get that HK hook setup from them, or elsewhere? I don't see it on their site.

Also, is that the 1.5" version?

Thanks!

Sorry to bring a dead thread back up, but I'm curious about that Boonie Packer sling. Did you get that HK hook setup from them, or elsewhere? I don't see it on their site.

Also, is that the 1.5" version?

Thanks!

This thread is not dead, it's just resting till I get around to finishing it.:flipoff2:

I got the 1.5" sling, figured wider would be more comfortable. Only the rear slow adjustable portion is 1.5", the forward quick adjust portion is still 1.25". The HK hooks and rear quick release swivel I got from Brownell's, just tacked em on to some other stuff I was ordering. The HK hooks were only a couple bucks each.

As another update, I finally got to try out the CMMG .22 conversion. Damn it's nice to be able to blast away for cheap. Had a few FTE starting off, but as it got broken in they went away and it ran just fine. The mags are a bitch to load though, my fat fingers just don't like feeding .22 rounds into mags. I tried a loading tool from Black Dog Magazines that cost $10, but it broke on the second mag so it went to the trash can. Future mods for the .22 conversion will be modding the mags to make them easier to load. Either slots in the side of the mag so the follower can be held down Ruger MKII style, or the tampon string trick, not sure which yet. I also need to grind down the weld on the rear of the conversion since it's got a high spot on it that digs into the buffer. Accuracy is acceptable, at 25 yards using a red dot sight, I managed to put a mag full into a 5" group shooting as fast as I could pull the trigger, works for me. Next trip I'll try some slow fire to see how small it can shoot.

FWIW I have never seen the conversions have exceptional accuracy, because the barrel is too fast for the .22lr round.

FWIW I have never seen the conversions have exceptional accuracy, because the barrel is too fast for the .22lr round.


Yea, I fully expected it to be a bullet hose, but that's perfect for close up hosing practice. I can deal with it for the savings.

Hows the BHO lever ?
Had a customer bring me a Left handed Stag AR with a fagpul lever. I like the idea of it. A lot.
He wants me to make him a left handed one but I saw them (straight down)in Brownells for 35.00 so its not really worth my time.

Hows the BHO lever ?
Had a customer bring me a Left handed Stag AR with a fagpul lever. I like the idea of it. A lot.
He wants me to make him a left handed one but I saw them (straight down)in Brownells for 35.00 so its not really worth my time.

The lever kicks ass, don't think I'll ever own another AR without one.

I would not use the Brownell's lever on anything but a highpower match gun since you have to stick your trigger finger all the way through the trigger guard to actuate it. I keep my booger hook out of the trigger guard unless I want it to go bang.

Making a lever shouldn't be that big a deal, just make it as light as possible out of steel, and tig it to the outer perimiter of the bolt catch. It might be worth it to contact Ken at Phase5tactical and see if he can send you a lever to weld on (since he gets them laser cut) or just have him make one for a lefty.

If you haven't tried a bolt lever yet, give one a shot. They are pretty cheap and really make a difference in the ergonomics of the AR platform.

This thread is not dead, it's just resting till I get around to finishing it.:flipoff2:

I got the 1.5" sling, figured wider would be more comfortable. Only the rear slow adjustable portion is 1.5", the forward quick adjust portion is still 1.25". The HK hooks and rear quick release swivel I got from Brownell's, just tacked em on to some other stuff I was ordering. The HK hooks were only a couple bucks each.

Thanks for the info.

Am I right in understanding that if my rifle already has quick release sling loops on it that the sling will be everything I need?

Thanks for the info.

Am I right in understanding that if my rifle already has quick release sling loops on it that the sling will be everything I need?

Yup, should be good to go.

Yup, should be good to go.

Awesome. Thank you.

Stark grip:

This is the grip I've been waiting for.

I was going to comment on the grip, it looks like it would be comfy. And it doesn't have finger grooves. I have small fingers and I can't STAND grips with finger grooves.

Nice rifle, from the thread title I was expecting a lot of crap hanging off it, but it looks clean and functional

Phase 5 Tactical extended bolt release,

How exactly is this retained? Epoxy?
Their first version was mechanical. two halves clamped together with screws.

I really like how it can be used to also lock the bolt open.

How exactly is this retained? Epoxy?
Their first version was mechanical. two halves clamped together with screws.

I really like how it can be used to also lock the bolt open.

There are a couple versions from them. One clamps, and one replaces your lever with theirs that has an extended lever welded to it.

The magpull lever fit frickin nice. Except it kick the lever out just a little. It is a two piece clam shell deal.

The first version of the one piece lever from Phase 5 was TIG welded to the outer edge of a stock bolt catch. The version I have on there now is TIG welded to the perimiter and re heat treated afterwards, as well as having the lightening cuts in it. He's working on another revision now which is supposed to be even lighter, but I'm waiting to hear back from him about testing one out for him.

Lots of folks have guessed it was epoxied in place due to the green, but that's just decoration as his company logo.

As already said, Magpul's EBR is bolt on to the stock catch, and Phase 5 has a bolt on version as well. I skipped the bolt on and went straight to the one piece unit, my thought is the less parts the better, as there have been reports of screws stripping out when installed by meatheads, levers moving out of alignment when meatheads don't pay enough attention during the install, and screws loosening up.

People have been pretty vocal about their disdain for a bolt release lever like this, but untill you try one, you don't know what you are missing, it's that much of an improvement.

I was going to comment on the grip, it looks like it would be comfy. And it doesn't have finger grooves. I have small fingers and I can't STAND grips with finger grooves.

Nice rifle, from the thread title I was expecting a lot of crap hanging off it, but it looks clean and functional

The Stark grip is definatly worth a shot, but having small fingers, it may be a bit large. It does lengthen the distance for your trigger finger, this allowed me to shoot with just the pad of my finger instead of my finger slipping through to the first knuckle. Part of that is the shape of the grip, part of that is the angle, it is much more pistol like. If you can hold on to and use the controls of a full sized pistol, then it should fit you just fine.

Thanks for the compliments, I'm real happy with how it's turned out so far, and hope to have a few "why didn't I think of that" kind of special touches for finishing up the lower, as well as some new parts that haven't been talked about here in the OSR very much.

OCD came from wanting to perfect every piece of the build, polishing, refining, etc as I put it together. The Bling is because this build is a complete 180 from my first low dollar AR, from a price standpoint alone this one is my bling.

My hands aren't like tiny or anything, but I have thin fingers and molded finger grooves always seem to line up wrong with my grip. I believe in getting as high of a grip on the gun as possible.

You got me thinking with the lapping...

My hands aren't like tiny or anything, but I have thin fingers and molded finger grooves always seem to line up wrong with my grip. I believe in getting as high of a grip on the gun as possible.

You got me thinking with the lapping...

If you like getting a high grip and really sinking the tang down into the web of your thumb, then you will love the Stark grip.

I'd like to do a before and after accuracy test for the lapping once I get this lower back on my old upper. Only problem is it takes me forever to get stuff done. The range I go to is an hour each way, and I travel too much for work. I'll see what I can do, it'll just be a while.

Nice build. I really dig the rail setup, buts $250 is kinda steep :eek:

Want to get rid of that Ace stock you swapped out?

Nice build. I really dig the rail setup, buts $250 is kinda steep :eek:

Want to get rid of that Ace stock you swapped out?

Sure, just let me look around a bit to see what a fair price is, and I'll shoot ya a PM.

Do you already have a rifle length buffer tube, buffer, and spring? I have no use for them so they'll go with the stock. I'll also throw in the 9mm buffer extension which will let you run a carbine buffer and spring in the rifle length tube, works the same, but has a bit less of the sproing to listen to when shooting.

Sure, just let me look around a bit to see what a fair price is, and I'll shoot ya a PM.

Do you already have a rifle length buffer tube, buffer, and spring? I have no use for them so they'll go with the stock. I'll also throw in the 9mm buffer extension which will let you run a carbine buffer and spring in the rifle length tube, works the same, but has a bit less of the sproing to listen to when shooting.

About all I have for this build is a stripped lower :laughing:.

I do have a 9mm upper in the mail to me though, so the other buffer would be excellent. Let me know. Thanks!

I might finally be getting close to chapter two of this build. Lower reciever should be here in a couple days (thanks Pete), got some JP springs, Spikes ST-T2 buffer, DPMS lower parts kit, and just ordered another Phase 5 bolt catch. Now I just have to hit some hobby stores to pick up some 4/40 set screws and a tap for em, maybe a 4/40 Helicoil kit, a set screw to fit where the grip screw goes, and some misc stuff to start building.

You'll have to stay tuned to see how this conglomeration of parts goes beyond just throwing together another lower.:evil:

Just for grins I also picked up a couple Nordic P-mag extensions, these things are redonkelous, 48 round mags anyone?:laughing:

Finally time to finish this thing up.

Got a CMMG lower from Pete, told him I wanted a lower, didn't care what brand, but it had to have the deepest darkest black finish to match my BCM upper, and it had to drop 1st gen P-mags free. He went through his stock, picked me out one and sent it on its way.

First step of any project, lay out all your parts to make sure everything is there. Good thing I did, can you spot what is missing in this pic?
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar25.jpg

Once again, Pete to the rescue, he was gracious enough to throw in the missing parts free of charge with another order I had placed. Now that's service, sending me free replacement parts for a LPK that I didn't even order from him. No I won't be making the mistake of ordering from someone else again, Pete's the man.

On to the install, but first some mods, starting with a little thread tapping.

First the rear take down detent bore.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar35.jpg

Then the bore for the grip screw, have to have threads going all the way through for what I'm doing, few if any lowers that I've heard of are tapped all the way through.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar47.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar54.jpg

After the lower has been tuned, it's time to start messing with some internal parts.

First up is the hammer.

Before.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar26.jpg

After.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar27.jpg

Why? Lighter hammer will move faster, an object at rest stays at rest... it takes less force to accelerate. Should work perfectly with the JP lightweight springs I'm using.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar31.jpg

With a full weight hammer, the light weight springs may not get it to it's max velocity making for light strikes, hopefully this mod will prevent that, I'll report back after a few range trips.

Next up is the trigger, have to smooth that sucker out a bit before even giving it a try. Smoothing the trigger is pretty simple and yielded fantastic results on my other AR, so I have no doubt about the value of taking the time to do it on this one.

Before shot of the sear surface of the trigger.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar28.jpg

After.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar29.jpg

My tool of choice for this, a ceramic knife sharpening stone that I've had for years. It's a very fine cut and nice and flat, perfect for this.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar30.jpg

Final polishing and smoothing job, the rear of the bolt carrier. Why the hell would someone polish the rear of the bolt carrier? Simple, to smooth out any rough edges left from when it was machined so it doesn't chew into the aluminum body of the buffer.

Before shot.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar43.jpg

After. I could probably go a bit more on this one, it feels pretty smooth, but still has some machining ridges in it. I need a new sharpening stone since my large one isn't flat anymore (it's seen a bit of use), so I had to use a small stone. I'll touch it up later, but so far it's an improvement.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar44.jpg

Here's what we're trying to avoid. This buffer is pretty new, so the groove around the perimiter of it isn't that bad, I've seen much worse. The divots in the center are from a .22 conversion, yes I'll be filing that weld before I use it again.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar46.jpg

That's about it for the fine tuning, time to start putting all the pieces together. Breaking up the posts due to the pic limits.

First up is shortening the spring for the rear take down pin detent. Yes, those threads I tapped in the reciever will allow for a set screw to be installed capturing the detent spring. Next time I take the stock off, I won't have to worry about losing anything.

Spring next to the set screw to gauge how much to remove.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar36.jpg

Some snips make quick work of it. As you can tell from the removed bit of spring I went on the conservative side of things, then test fit to make sure it was the way I wanted it to feel.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar37.jpg

Took off another half coil, then some locktite.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar38.jpg

A 4-40 x 1/8" setscrew holds it all together.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar39.jpg

Stop when it's flush with the rear of the reciever.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar40.jpg

I'm not going to rehash installing the rest of the lower parts kit, except for showing how I prefer to install the forward takedown pin detent. Single edge razor blade works every time, haven't launched one yet.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar55.jpg

Now for those threads in the grip screw bore, yes there is a reason...

A huge thanks to Seabass, he hooked me up with some small hardware that I was having a hard time finding locally. When I asked him how much I should send him for the screws he said don't worry about it. Awesome guy, can't thank him enough for his generosity.

Here's the first use of the stuff he sent me.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar48.jpg

Run the set screw up the bore for the grip screw. Use some blue locktite on the set screw, you do NOT want the set screw to start moving around while you are shooting and mucking up the works.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar49.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar50.jpg

Hold the trigger to the rear and cock the hammer so that it is captured by the disconnector. Then advance the set screw.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar51.jpg

Then back out the set screw till the hammer falls from the disconnector to the sear.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar52.jpg

Then you can install your pistol grip, don't forget the safety detent and spring.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar53.jpg

Starting to come together.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar41.jpg

Yes, that is a zombie skull mag release button, this is the OCD Bling build, so it had to have a little bling in there.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar32.jpg

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar42.jpg

Now for some more goodies going into this build.

First is the Spikes ST-T2 buffer. It's a touch heavier than an H2 buffer, but it's filled with tungsten powder instead of individual weights, supposed to be a smoother recoil impulse sort of like a dead blow hammer, have to wait till after a couple range visits for a report on it.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar33.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar45.jpg

Next up is one of my favorite AR accessories, an extended bolt release lever. I'm waiting on a box from Phase 5 tactical at the moment, he's sending me some new stuff to try out and review.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar56.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar57.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar59.jpg

That about brings this build to a close, all that's left is some testing to make sure everything runs 100% with any ammo I can find to feed it.

What started out as needing a replacement rear sight for my first AR somehow morphed into building a complete new one, as well as getting a new Troy rear sight for the first one. Funny how that works aint it?

The finished pair.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar60.jpg

Just for kicks, here's a shot with not one but two 30 round P-mags equipped with Nordic P-mag extensions which add 18 rounds of capacity. Yup, 96 rounds on the gun, who needs a Beta mag?
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar61.jpg

Fire away with comments, concerns, thoughts, etc, I'll be glad to talk about the choices I made and why I did what I did.

Range report to follow, I just don't know when, I might very well end up responding to that drill platform that exploded, still on standby for now.

Single edge razor blade works every time, haven't launched one yet.

Nobody likes a braggart. :flipoff2:

Seriously though, very nice looking build. How do you like the Millet? I'm debating between a DMS-1 and an Leupold 1-4 shotgun scope. I don't like the fact that the Millet has to be turned on, but it has a great reputation.

Nobody likes a braggart. :flipoff2:

Seriously though, very nice looking build. How do you like the Millet? I'm debating between a DMS-1 and an Leupold 1-4 shotgun scope. I don't like the fact that the Millet has to be turned on, but it has a great reputation.

I like the DMS-1, might try something else down the line just to broaden my horizons, but for the time being I have no complaints what so ever. You don't "have" to turn it on, the black recticle is perfectly visible in most circumstances, you just have the option of lighting it up if conditions warrant. It's not bright enough for bright daylite use like a red dot sight (you still have the black recticle), so most of the time the illumination stays off for me. If you have some cloud cover, or are anywhere near dusk/dawn, the illumination works great.

I'm really diggin the specs on the new Vortex PST 1x4, just waitin on it to be released and to hear some reviews, but it looks really promising so far. Having daylight usable illumination will be a big plus.

Thanks for the compliments on the build, I can't wait to try it out.

Ah, I didn't realize that the Millet had an existing black reticle. All of the reticle pictures I've seen are of it "lit up". Thanks for the info, it just went back to the top of the list. :smokin:

Range report to follow, I just don't know when, I might very well end up responding to that drill platform that exploded, still on standby for now.

The one that's under water? What do you do for a living?

The one that's under water? What do you do for a living?

Coast Guard. Respond to hazmat, wmd, oil spills, etc.

If I hadn't just got back from my last case 2 days ago, I'd already be gone.

Here's my last case.

http://www.nola.com/news/index.ssf/2010/04/crude_oil_spill_fouls_about_a.html

http://media.nola.com/news_impact/photo/delta-refuge-oil-spill-containment-boom-cropjpg-3f40e1bbec53c0d1_large.jpg

In that pic I'm standing just out of frame to the right on a sand bar, directing boom placement to protect the nesting ground on Brenton Island.

Im kinda slow............what does the set screw do? Limit overtravel?

It preloads the trigger and reduces the amount of pull required to trip the hammer.

Interesting......... Thanks!

I will have to remember this trick.

This thread is not dead, it's just resting till I get around to finishing it.:flipoff2:

I got the 1.5" sling, figured wider would be more comfortable. Only the rear slow adjustable portion is 1.5", the forward quick adjust portion is still 1.25". The HK hooks and rear quick release swivel I got from Brownell's, just tacked em on to some other stuff I was ordering. The HK hooks were only a couple bucks each.

As another update, I finally got to try out the CMMG .22 conversion. Damn it's nice to be able to blast away for cheap. Had a few FTE starting off, but as it got broken in they went away and it ran just fine. The mags are a bitch to load though, my fat fingers just don't like feeding .22 rounds into mags. I tried a loading tool from Black Dog Magazines that cost $10, but it broke on the second mag so it went to the trash can. Future mods for the .22 conversion will be modding the mags to make them easier to load. Either slots in the side of the mag so the follower can be held down Ruger MKII style, or the tampon string trick, not sure which yet. I also need to grind down the weld on the rear of the conversion since it's got a high spot on it that digs into the buffer. Accuracy is acceptable, at 25 yards using a red dot sight, I managed to put a mag full into a 5" group shooting as fast as I could pull the trigger, works for me. Next trip I'll try some slow fire to see how small it can shoot.

So what is your trick for loading the .22lr conversion mags? Loading 10 of them is a pain. In fact I could not even load them to max capacity.

If you like getting a high grip and really sinking the tang down into the web of your thumb, then you will love the Stark grip.



That's the problem I have. The web of my thumb doesn't come anywhere near the curve in the lower receiver.

Update time. I finally made it to the range to wring this thing out a bit. Been a bit busy with a little oil spill thingy in the gulf for the last few months, so this was the first time I've had the chance to get out and shoot rifles in a long time.

Ran 500 rounds through it, all Wolf or Tula steel cased cheap ammo. Had one stuck casing, and one dud round with a malformed primer that failed to go bang, other than that, no problems to report at all.

The trigger is absolutely amazing compared to a stock trigger, completely different animal. Ran a couple hundred rounds through my old AR as well, and switching from one to another really made the trigger difference apparent. Even though the old AR has a polished trigger it is crap compared to the new one, it's just that damn good. Smooth, light, and crisp with no over travel, perfect.

Spikes ST-T2 buffer, couldn't really tell a difference, give it a "meh, whatever" vote. It's there for the bling, but I couldn't tell enough difference to make it worth the extra cash, oh well.

Overall, I am very happy with how this rifle turned out.

Future upgrades? All I can think of is maybe trying out one of the new Battle Comps instead of the PWS FSC556 comp I have on there, and either a mini red dot mounted next to the scope, or ditching the scope for an Aimpoint of some type. Other than that, it's a done deal.

What trigger did you get again?

What trigger did you get again?

It's a DPMS lower parts kit that I worked on.

Polished
Bobbed hammer
JP reduced power springs
Over travel screw in grip

It's a DPMS lower parts kit that I worked on.

Polished
Bobbed hammer
JP reduced power springs
Over travel screw in grip

Have you ever had a chance to compare your home-done job to what Bill Springfield does? It sounds pretty comparable. I've got one of his triggers in my AR, and it's outstanding, but hey, if I can get the same results at home, I'll just do that next time.

Also, have you run the .22 conversion with the lightened springs? Mine was causing light strikes probably 9 out of 10 times with the lightened hammer spring. I had to "upgrade" to a heavier spring, and now it's running 100%.

Never tried one of Bill Springfields triggers, or any other aftermarket trigger for that matter. Maybe someday I'll try some high dollar aftermarket job, but probably not.

Haven't tried the .22 conversion in this rifle, plan on only using it in the older AR.

Speaking of the older AR, I'm thinking it needs some upgrades, comparing the two the old AR is like driving a truck compared to a sports car.

That is one nice long rifle :beer: :beer:

That is one nice long rifle :beer: :beer:


Thanks, appreciate it.

It's been a while since I updated this thread, so here goes. So far I think I'm at about 2K rounds with this rifle and zero issues except for a couple stuck Wolf casings. Yea I need to start shooting brass, but the steel crap is just so cheap to plink with. Keep a chamber brush and cleaning rod handy and the steel cased ammo is just fine for range use. I do keep some brass cased stuff standing by.

I've added the Battle Arms Development short throw safety. Love this thing, only 45* throw, so putting the rifle back on safe is a simple thumb flick without having to rotate your firing hand around the grip.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/BADASS45/badass06.jpg

Full thread below with more pics and discussion.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=931184&highlight=

Next up was an Aimpoint R-1 micro. Caught an amazing deal on it and wish I had bought a couple more when I did. This thing is small and light, just about perfect. Only gripe is I still have to paint it black, but meh, I'll get to it when I get to it.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/aimpoint/aimpoint02.jpg

Finally got to shoot with it today. After sighting it in on the bench it was time for some drills and damn it's amazing. It's so small that when shooting with both eyes open and looking at the target it just dissapears leaving the red dot behind. Put the dot where you want the bullet to go and you're good to go. I was a little concerned at first with how small the lense is, but when shooting it just isn't there. Kinda have to experience it to understand I think, but I'm definately happy with it. Much more so than the Strikefire I was using previously, just due to the size and how easy it is to shoot. The Strike fire was always there, and did tend to block a bit of vision where the R-1 doesn't.


Full thread with more pics and discussion below.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=942886&highlight=


And finally for this update is the Streamlight TLR-1 weapon light. Again, I caught a deal and grabbed one. Never having seen one in person before I was suprised at how well it's constructed and how small it is. Damn if it aint bright too. I mounted it all the way forward on the top of the forearm, and moved my front sight back a few notches to give it room. So, I lot an inch or so of sight radius, but won't have anything in the way of the light, and don't have to add a rail section. The TLR is light enough it's barely noticable, even way out there at the muzzle, and doesn't get in the way of my grip even though I run my support hand at the end of my handguard. Activating the light is a no brainer, just tap the paddle switch with my thumb. Only drawback I can find is that the constant on position is a nogo unless I move the front sight back another notch to clear the paddle, but I'm not worried about it. Not supposed to run a gun light constant on anyway (that big beam of light just screams "here I am, shoot me". A quick flash just to orient yourself and see what's there will do, and it's bright enough that anyone in front of the muzzle is going effectively blind for a few minutes.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/TLR-1s/SF02.jpg

Full thread with pics and discussion below.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=952034&highlight=


Just to close out this update is an overall pic with the new parts.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/TLR-1s/AR001.jpg

It is upside down :flipoff2:

It is upside down :flipoff2:

I'm strangely comfortable with that.:flipoff2:



I forgot a new addition, the forward sling mount. I had used a piece of rail with an MI mount for an HK hook. It worked, but I was never happy with it. Just added too much for such a simple task, extra weight, just wasn't a clean solution. Magpul finally unassed thier assembly lines with the RSA which is a much mo bettah solution.

here's the previous sling mount I was using.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/newar24-Copy.jpg

Which was replaced with this single piece dealio.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/new%20ar%20build/rsa.jpg

That's some extreme rail. :flipoff2:

One of these days I'll care enough to take a sharpie to all the damn lettering. Till then, I'm stuck with it. Meh.

So what is your trick for loading the .22lr conversion mags? Loading 10 of them is a pain. In fact I could not even load them to max capacity.

Save your thumbs for whatever the fuck else you use your thumbs for....

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/bdm-ar15.22-ezlo.htm

Save your thumbs for whatever the fuck else you use your thumbs for....

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/bdm-ar15.22-ezlo.htm

I tried one of those, it broke on the second mag and I threw it away.

I tried one of those, it broke on the second mag and I threw it away.

How'd you break it? It's a pretty stout piece...and you don't need all that much force to push the follower down. You been workin' out? :eek:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/BADASS45/badass06.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk58/kwrangln/TLR-1s/AR001.jpg

I went out shooting this weekend. I think I'm gonna have to find a stark somewhere local to try out. My natural grip on the MOE grip leaves a lot of open space. If I "choke up" to get web engagment with the curve it puts my finger way to far into the trigger, and I got small hands.
Also with you boonie sling, do you carry with sling over or under the buttstock shoulder? I ask because I like under but then the adjustable section is over my other shoulder and makes the wide section pointless, but it doesn't choke me out "IF" I need to transition. I guess ill try some different ways.
I've polished my trigger and made the spring lighter via some thread on here, I think it was one of Doc's, but it still sucks. So I think ill try the screw trick.

Save your thumbs for whatever the fuck else you use your thumbs for....

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/bdm-ar15.22-ezlo.htm

I tried one of those, it broke on the second mag and I threw it away.

How'd you break it? It's a pretty stout piece...and you don't need all that much force to push the follower down. You been workin' out? :eek:


Beats me, the .22 mags are a bitch to load, and after 20-22 rounds they feel like they are full. Lil too much pressure on the loader thingy and it broke off the nub that pushes the rounds down into the mag. I still haven't modded the mags, think I'll end up putting a piece of string on the follower to pull through the bottom of the mag to load em.

I went out shooting this weekend. I think I'm gonna have to find a stark somewhere local to try out. My natural grip on the MOE grip leaves a lot of open space. If I "choke up" to get web engagment with the curve it puts my finger way to far into the trigger, and I got small hands.

The Stark grip is definately worth a try. I actually need to get another one for my old AR.


Also with you boonie sling, do you carry with sling over or under the buttstock shoulder? I ask because I like under but then the adjustable section is over my other shoulder and makes the wide section pointless, but it doesn't choke me out "IF" I need to transition. I guess ill try some different ways.

Sling over the buttstock shoulder for me, simple and easy. To make things easier the stock end of my sling is on the opposite side from the front of the sling, so if shooting weak handed it's a lil bit more forgiving.


I've polished my trigger and made the spring lighter via some thread on here, I think it was one of Doc's, but it still sucks. So I think ill try the screw trick.

Go the whole way with it, try what I posted in the thread here, it turned out great. Ditch the modded stock springs and spend the $10 for the JP springs, then do the rest of the work, it'll be worth it.

The Stark grip is definately worth a try. I actually need to get another one for my old AR.

Sling over the buttstock shoulder for me, simple and easy. To make things easier the stock end of my sling is on the opposite side from the front of the sling, so if shooting weak handed it's a lil bit more forgiving.

Go the whole way with it, try what I posted in the thread here, it turned out great. Ditch the modded stock springs and spend the $10 for the JP springs, then do the rest of the work, it'll be worth it.

THANKS!
I stopped by the local ACE hardware today and picked up the taps and screws. And now that I got it tapped, the fucking screws must have been in the wrong bin, the size is right but the threads aint even close. :flipoff: to douche bags not putting stuff back correctly.
On the spring issue, do you feel the JPs are lighter than the "spring mod" or just feel better about having two legs holding in the pin? (If that makes sense)
ETA. My current setup yields 4.3-4.5 on the trigger scale.

Add the set screw first and see where that puts your pull weight.

Add the set screw first and see where that puts your pull weight.

Well, just over 3lbs. At first it was the same but I bent a spring a little more. Hope its not to light now. I bobbed my hammer also.
Well find out next trip to the range! Thanks.

Necro-ing a slightly older thread.

Just wanted to say thanks for the tips and info on installing the set screw for the trigger.

Recently did this mod and polished up all the internals and it is like a completely different rifle now.

Well worth the time invested in it.

I do have one question for you, or anyone else who has done this mod. After you back out the set screw, and the hammer drops and is caught by the sear, did you have to back the set screw out anymore to get your safety to function? On my rifle (older Oly Arms with stock internals) I had to back the set screw out about another 3/4 turn before it would allow the safety to engage.

Still an extreme change in the trigger pull and break, but leaves it with just the smallest amount of creep before it breaks.

I do have one question for you, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On my rifle (older Oly Arms with stock internals) I had to back the set screw out about another 3/4 turn before it would allow the safety to engage.

Still an extreme change in the trigger pull and break, but leaves it with just the smallest amount of creep before it breaks.

I did but i figured maybe my safety hole was actually made in slightly the wrong spot on my lower (rguns special on sharps lowers) resulting in the selector sitting to low. I filed the safety bar just enough to clear so the selector would rotate. All is well now and YES, I checked to make sure it functions correctly still.

I did but i figured maybe my safety hole was actually made in slightly the wrong spot on my lower (rguns special on sharps lowers) resulting in the selector sitting to low. I filed the safety bar just enough to clear so the selector would rotate. All is well now and YES, I checked to make sure it functions correctly still.

Yep, youll probally need to back it out slightly to keep the factory safety working. Otherwise do what tjs suggested, just pay attention and dont take too much off!

Thanks for the replies, guys. I just wanted to make sure I hadn't somehow manage to screw up the fairly straightforward instructions, or install.

I really need to invest in a trigger scale one of these days. I am really curious what my pull on this rifle is now.

I went way beyond the point that yours is at. I set the sear engagement first, then fit the disconnector, then fit the safety. The trigger group that I set up that way is better than my Chip McCormick drop ins (I have 2). Oh, there was also some significant changes made to the engagement surfaces.