Which units do you guys like to use front and rear together?
Are some of the combos reducing the steering angles in comp? Are some of them actually helping? there are so many different "opinions" I want to see what you guys like the best so far?
Thanks!

I like the ARB with US standered lines lines. its reliable and fast.

ARB's front and rear work great for competition. A Detroit in the front and ARB in the rear would also work good.

I ran an aussie front and welded rear. Great for trail riding horrible for comps.. I'm installing eLockers right now. HP front, LP rear.

Have a look at the Yukon Gear Zip lockers

Do you think that detroits F/R would really have a disadvantage in comp over Arb's F/R? Can a rig turn as sharp and as fast with detroits as some say they can with their Arb's? Does the detroit in the rear have an effect on the steering control like the spool does or is it "loose" enough with the backlash to not have an effect that really matters?

*granted, the ARb in the rear allows a pivit tire doing front burns instead of dragging the rear(when using a disconnect)...let this not be concern for conversation sake.

One thing that really can get frustrating with a spool in the rear is the "push" it has on the front end comming into turns at any speed.
A lot of guys that have run both say the detroit does not do this.
what do you know????

ARB rear is a must have for comp wheeling an ftoy imo.

I ran an aussie front and welded rear. Great for trail riding horrible for comps.. I'm installing eLockers right now. HP front, LP rear.

Elockers are to slow at least in my experience. We ran one in the front of #32 and ended up just leaving it locked 95% of the time since it took some work to get it to engage and disengage on course. Had to wiggle the steering or roll ahead a bit, which was an issue when trying to stick a line.

Elockers are to slow at least in my experience. We ran one in the front of #32 and ended up just leaving it locked 95% of the time since it took some work to get it to engage and disengage on course. Had to wiggle the steering or roll ahead a bit, which was an issue when trying to stick a line.

Yeah if I was planning on running more comps I would probably look at ARB's but for the price and since I'm not comp legal with my motor I figure they will do ok.

i ran elockers in the front and rear of # 48 last year, they worked great i think as good as arb, but you have to get the right wiring harness(12 volt guy) and the motors need to be rebuilt(ecgs), mine was unlocking and locking as soon as i hit the switch, but i probably had jus as much in those, as arbs would have cost me, i liked it cause you didnt have to worry about compressor and air lines, jus my opinion:D

We started with detroit front, arb rear. I really like that combo honestly. However, 1/2 way through this last season, we went to arb/arb for tighter turning in 4wd, and not having the front scuff just that little bit.

I run Detroit in the front ARB in the rear, it works good but I'll probebly change the detroit for the arb eventually. I think the ARB in the rear is a must

I ran the Detroit in the front, and spool in the rear. Then half way through the season, switched to an e-locker in the rear. Worked fine for me, but you have to remember you cant just throw a standard third spare in if you have alredy drilled and clearanced for an e-locker.

I have been running ARBs F&R off a Powertank Jet pack thanks to SDHQ has and work great all year. Each Bottles are lasting about 4 weekends at $5 fills.

I ran the Detroit in the front, and spool in the rear. Then half way through the season, switched to an e-locker in the rear. Worked fine for me, but you have to remember you cant just throw a standard third spare in if you have alredy drilled and clearanced for an e-locker.

dont have an ftoy, yet. i jsut blew up my 4.10 e locker ring gear. 42 stickys with water to the bottom of the wheel. stripped 6 teeth of the ring gear. i carry a welded 4.10 and all you have to do is remove the two long studs and move two short studs back to the factory holes. you will be shy one stud in the center line of the axle. ran a lil local comp this weekend and burned with the 42 and i did not leak a drop of oil out of the third. jsut use a lil bit more rvt around the area you cut out for the e locker.

dont have an ftoy, yet. i jsut blew up my 4.10 e locker ring gear. 42 stickys with water to the bottom of the wheel. stripped 6 teeth of the ring gear. i carry a welded 4.10 and all you have to do is remove the two long studs and move two short studs back to the factory holes. you will be shy one stud in the center line of the axle. ran a lil local comp this weekend and burned with the 42 and i did not leak a drop of oil out of the third. jsut use a lil bit more rvt around the area you cut out for the e locker.
Glad to hear that, i have been dreading the inevitable.Figured it would poor fliud.The e-locker seems pretty tough, i bent my rock assualt,messed up the splines on my shaft, but the e-locker still worked fine.