Here's my 1985 Mitsubishi Turbo Diesel Pickup. The Turbo Diesel engine is a Mitsubishi 2.3 liter or more commonly known as a 4D55. This motor came in the truck from the factory and produces 84 hp and 136 ft. lbs. in it's stock configuration.

I bought the truck back in July of 2003 and have used it as my daily driver ever since and plan to use it as such in the future. When I bought it, the torsion bars were cranked, it had shackle lift in the rear, and a 3" body lift for a total of 6" of lift. It had 33" tires, 4.88 gears and the front fenders were heavily trimmed.

Since the spring of 2008 it has undergone a complete make over inside and out. There is so much it is impossible to remember everything. but here are a few of the mods.

Engine
4D56 head with roller rockers, ported and polished
4D55 PerformanceTD04 Watercooled turbo conversion
4D55 Performance H.O. injection pump
Custom Intercooler
3" exhaust
4D55 Performanceair intake
Custom brake booster

Tranny
FM145 Transmission Swap from a 1987 Ford Ranger Married to a Atlas 5:1 Transfercase
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Tatton's Drive Shafts
Belly Skid

Axles and Suspension
2008 JK Crate axles from Mopar Performance
Elockers
Disc Brakes
Fox Coilover with remote resiviors up front
Trail Gear Leaf Springs in the Rear
Custom long arm suspension setup
Electronic disconecting sway bar up front off a 2008 Rubicon
5.13 gears
(It has about 13" of lift)

Other
Restored interior retro interior
4D55 Performance Battery relocation kit
4D55 Performance Oversized friberglass front fenders
Stinger Battery
Rocklizard Sliders
General Grabber Competions 33x12.50x17
XD Addict Wheels




Here's a few pics of me at Moab in the old configuration, before the SAS and suspension lift.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5707
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5706
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5705


As she sat back in 2008 with the Jeep wheels, it may look good in the picture but I demand perfection so the bed had to go. The bed was beyond all hope. It had 500 holes drilled on the inside and in the bottom from the previous owner.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5708

Here is what it looks like currently with all the modification with the roof rack, wheels, rocksliders and bumpers. It's always a work in progress. I have since swapped out the bed for one in much better condition, and I have started prepping it for paint.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4685921469_42d5567a95.jpg

my first 4x4 was a 84 D50 man that was a cool truck

Lets see a pic of the new fenders. Are they baja style or what.

Lets see a pic of the new fenders. Are they baja style or what.

Actually I have a set of original John Bakers but there just not big enough. So I am having a couple sets of off road baja style fenders made as well so I can stuff 35's with out rubbing. I plan on selling the baja style fenders in the future but were just in the molding process for now. The new fenders will be similar to the John Baker fenders, but they will have 5" more flare and 38" wheel openings.

How much power are you making with the mods now? I wish I had a diesel...whats the MPG like with the 35ish" tires?

How much power are you making with the mods now? I wish I had a diesel...whats the MPG like with the 35ish" tires?


Due to the current state of the economy and diesel prices, I have it burning as efficiently as possible for now. When I put my foot into it, I don't even get a puff of black smoke. My last dyno run which was in earlier this year had me making about 83 hp and 130 ft lbs of torque at 8psi. We were having a hard time getting the full 13psi of boost because you can't shift on the dyno so we did the best we could in 2nd gear. I am certain there is lots more power than this dyno shows. I have no problem pulling long 8% grades over mountains here doing 70mph in overdrive. Even with the bigger tires my 0-60 time is 2 seconds faster than it was stock. As far as fuel economy it is great. I used to get between 21-27 mpg but ever since I upgraded to a custom built injection pump, I now avarage 32 city and 44 freeway. I also removed all my California emission which probably had something to do with it.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5723

Thats at the wheels with the tires that are on it now? 44 highway:eek: Hell yeah!

Thats at the wheels with the tires that are on it now? 44 highway:eek: Hell yeah!

Yeah, the milage is way up since switching to the 1983 federal injection pump. A friend and I had a suspision that the injection pumps off the '83 Mitsubishi Pickups were far more efficient than those that came on the '84-85 trucks. It was probably the single best upgrade I have done to my truck. Not only does it return better mpg but I definately have more power.

Since switching to the '83 pump the truck has a completely different sound. I get that cool diesel ping when I hold the rpm's constant like the big Cummins trucks. I used to get the diesel clatter but never did I get the ping.

I have owned alot of little trucks over the years like a 94 toyota with a 22re, a dakota with 3.8 magnum, chevy Luv diesels, and a mitsubishi with 2.6 and none of those engines have the moving power of these little Mitsubishi Diesels. I wish I could get my hands on another one and just keep it bone stock.

Why cant you shift on the dyno? I thought you needed to be in 4th gear to do a dyno run.

I am not an expert about dynos, but the shop was calibrating my pump based on the dyno runs. They did about a dozen or so runs over a two day period to get this pump perfectly calibrated. They said they could not do full dyno runs but they could dyno it in second gear which was adequate to calibrate the pump and timing. I wish I knew more about dyno's but I don't. For what it's worth, the shop the was doing the dyno's was one of the best diesel shops in the country so I trust what he was saying.

Here are a few shots of the hole in my floor. Just making some room for the Atlas transfercase. Also here is a shot of the Tcase cross member/skid plate. Still alot of work that needs to be done but it movin' in the right direction. As a side note, that orange stuff you see in the cab is glue, not rust thank goodness.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5758

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5757

my first truck was a 1988 dodge d-50. Lowered and not 4x4 of course

unfortunately it got stolen soon after purchased. :(

got a better rig now :)

yours looks hella cool!

what does it have for hubs? aisins? manuals?

Thought you might want to see how the rig finally turnrd out. Here it is in action. I know the quality sucks.

YouTube - colby in the box (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KE8cXR3Ex78)

Thought you might want to see how the rig finally turnrd out. Here it is in action. I know the quality sucks.

YouTube - colby in the box (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KE8cXR3Ex78)

That thing is sick, what is your crawl ratio. I love the flex and the beadlocks.

Your diesel sounds like mine used to before I rebuilt the pump. Now mine sounds like a Cummins. I think with some tweeking you could get alot more power out of that 4D55 and it would sound alot more like a diesel.

Its 288/1, at the very end that was all it had. Third gear double low

Its 288/1, at the very end that was all it had. Third gear double low

Were you having tranny issues?

Damn the floor of your truck is hella clean. Do you have any rust at all?


the youtube truck thread, incase you don't have it bookmarked yet:laughing:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452534

Were you having tranny issues?

What do you mean, as far as the noises? No, might be a loose rocker or something. When you gear your axels and t-cases it relieves the stress on you engine and tranny.

Wow Spencer, Thats a big ass ugly hole & hack job you have here. Why didn't you have a body lift installed or dropped the drivetrain? Is the hack shop going to reinforce the floor after this is all said & done?

That big a$$ hole is the price to pay for going with the Atlas. That hole is inspite of adding a 1" body lift. It's basically all back togeather, but my Stinger battery died so I am waiting for a replacement to come in the mail. RRRRRRRRRRR.:mad3:

If it's not one thing, it's another.

That big a$$ hole is the price to pay for going with the Atlas. That hole is inspite of adding a 1" body lift. It's basically all back togeather, but my Stinger battery died so I am waiting for a replacement to come in the mail. RRRRRRRRRRR.:mad3:

If it's not one thing, it's another.


You still didn't answer my question Spencer.

Yeah, the floor was reinforced and rust proofed. The floor was chopped like that so the original seat mounting brackets could be retained. Lowering the drivetrain was not an option because it's a rockcrawler and I need all the clearance I can get.

Thought you might want to see how the rig finally turnrd out. Here it is in action. I know the quality sucks.

YouTube - colby in the box (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KE8cXR3Ex78)

I love that truck! You should post a link to it's build, I remember following the build and watching the videos from when you were building. Badass:smokin:

I love that truck! You should post a link to it's build, I remember following the build and watching the videos from when you were building. Badass:smokin:

Unfortunately the link to the build was lost when MightD50.com went down. As far as the videos go, I think your thinking of Colby's rig. I have never posted any of my videos on the web.

I will try my best to recreate what was lost, but it will take a lot of time.

Hey, was the original transmission a km145? How diffucult was the km132 2wd swap? How much different was the mounting, clutch, shifters, etc.?

There is a Toyota FJ80 solid axle at the yard with 4.10s, I thought I could km132 swap with a samurai transfer case...

Unfortunately the link to the build was lost when MightD50.com went down. As far as the videos go, I think your thinking of Colby's rig. I have never posted any of my videos on the web.

I will try my best to recreate what was lost, but it will take a lot of time.

That's what i was refering to was Colby, Isn't he the guy with the 4D55TT. Really makes me want to swap in a 4D34T into my next truck

I beleive Colby is the guys name with the TT set up, Fawk Awph is the guy that helped him build it and posted about it primarily.

You talking about a fuso is making me want one. Found one to today on CL thats a 4 door rollback blown motor I seem to find alot of em blown up and that makes me wonder how good there motors are. Tho my dads got an old freightshaker cabover out back with a Cummins 855 in it........ Bet itd make a lil ol fuso move like a sumbitch :D And I know were I could get a cheap set of rockwells at........ :smokin:

If only I had unlimited time and money :grinpimp:

That's what i was refering to was Colby, Isn't he the guy with the 4D55TT. Really makes me want to swap in a 4D34T into my next truck

Yeah, he added an additional turbo,but he had a compound/sequential setup. A twin turbo setup is alot different. Ironically I think his turbos were the same size which definately is far from ideal for a compound turbo. Ask him and see what he says.

4D34 is a pretty good engine i've seen them hit 400k in fleet service, but i've also seen them fail in 100k due to workers putting "super diesel" in them *(super diesel being gasoline). Workers usually don't know the difference between diesel and gasoline so when they bring the truck to the shop and tell us how powerfull the truck got when they filled it with super diesel it's too late.

So uh were can one find a 4d34 at for cheap? What kinda power we talking? 120hp or what?

145HP & 275FtLBS


You can usually find them at Fuso dealers used for around 1200 but i've found running fusos for 2000. I'd like to get a complete truck and get the engine running 100% before doing the swap.

The reality is, the 4D34 has very little in common with the 4D55 and 4D56. That being said, it does not mean the 4D34 is a bad choice for an engine swap. I think the 4D34 is capable of handling more boost, because it is medium duty engine as opposed to a light duty engine like the 4D55.

Well I just got a healthy tax return back from the feds, I am thinking I should get some more toys for the truck. :grinpimp:

Maybe a custom bumper and a roofrack. I think that would be tight.

So I have had a lot of trouble finding a replacement for my burned out ECU. My original unit was damaged beyond repair. It had a fried circut board. I have tried several other places like A1 Cardone and Rocky Mountain Imports and a few others with no avail. I came across this company and they claim they have all the parts on hand needed to build a new unit. They supposedly have parts on hand to rebuild all the Mitsubishi ECU's. I spoke with them on the phone and they are very friendly.

http://mitsubishi-ecu.com

you have a diesel right why do you need an ECU its a manuale pump right??
if so just wire it up with out one. if you want ill do up a diagram for you. when i wire up my 4m40 no ECU will be used.

you have a diesel right why do you need an ECU its a manuale pump right??
if so just wire it up with out one. if you want ill do up a diagram for you. when i wire up my 4m40 no ECU will be used.

It has a an ECM which controls the 12 volt glow system, the 6 volt glow system, the fuel heater, the water seperator, and the egr system. Yeah I could have jerry rigged some stupid push button setup for the 12 volt glow system and run the 6 volt glow off 120F sensor. But that still does not account for all the other system which run off of the glow contoller ECM and for $300 it will be cheaper than adding several sensors and a bonch of switches and wiring. Also, using the stock ECM helps extend the life of the glow plugs and prevents them from melting off into the head, which results in engine damage.

I have ordered several new parts for my rig this week. Currently it does not have a front bumper, so I ordered an ARB bumper that is made for an 86-95 Toyota Pickup/4Runner. I took a few measurements and it should fit with just a few mods with the plasma cutter. At least I hope it's that easy. I also ordered up some switches from OTRATTW.com for my lights and lockers. Lastly, I have been working very closely my fiberglass guy on fiberglassing some new front fenders.

www.otrattw.com

hack hack hack....... I swear what would Warme/Vannoy say? :smokin:

hack hack hack....... I swear what would Warme/Vannoy say? :smokin:


Hey Kerby, good to hear from you, there is definately some hacking going on but what can you do, no one makes aftermarket parts for our trucks. So you have to be creative, I am hoping that this bumper will just slide right on after I cut the fenders and remove the valance.

http://i.ebayimg.com/23/!Bn(1PCwB2k~$(KGrHqYOKiYEtlvO5MlTBLjRuok!F!~~_12.J PG

Well, the ARB bumper came in the mail yesterday and it will work quite nicely. The only modifications that will be needed are removing the front valance, trimming the front fenders, and adding a mounting point the the frame of the truck. It's is amazing how well the bumper contours follow the profile of the truck and its fenders. It just fits like a glove. It is ARB part #3414070 and it is intended for the 86-95 Toyota Pickups but with a few minor mods it will work great for a first generation (79-86) Mitsubishi/D50 Pickup. I am pretty stoked to see it installed.

Nice truck man! I've been considering installing a 4D55 or 4D56 into my B2600i. These motors were an option in the Mazda's in other countries so it should be a pretty straight forward swap.

Is 4D44 Performance Inc. a business that you run? Are your products for sale?

http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Other/Mazda-B2600i/P1010008/562161899_Zp8o7-M.jpg

I had a custom front bumper made after finding out that no one makes bumpers for these trucks either...

http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Other/Mazda-B2600i/-/636604892_aQA6u-M.jpg

a 4d55 won't bolt up to a b2600i trans, but it will on a b2600

It will with the B2600 bell housing. Besides, the 4D56 that I can get has a tranny and t-case with it.

Jeff, 4D55 Performance is a licenced business but it more of a hobby than a business. The real problem is, people who drive these trucks are typically on very tight budgets. I have sold quite a few water cooled turbo conversions, boost gauges, pyros, glow control parts, battery relocation kits, and hopefully soon I will have a new high performance intake. I have tried several different intakes and I think this one I am currently testing will work.

Like I said, parts are expensive, like a watercooled turbo kit is $1500, but it is a completely bolt on application for most 4d55 engines.

Other item I am considering is a Cutout Fender Flare Kit which would allow first gen pickup owners to run 33" tires with minimal lift.

Currently I am not carrying any stock because I may be moving in a different direction, but that still a secret for now. But I am willing to help someone out if they would like parts. Lately I have been recommending people just by a brand new crate engine instead of trying to modify the one they have. The new crate engines are already more powerful and you know what your getting. You will never have to worry about the engine again. They are a little pricey at $4800, but it comes with everything. To build that engine would cost around $9k so it a screaming deal in my opinion. Don't confuse this Crate motor with those supposed low milage JDM import motors. Those motors are 15 to 20 year old motors and they have 15 to 20 year old problems. I only speak from experience. Go for the Crate motor.

http://perezwholesaledistributor.com/catalog/i140.html

That's awesome! I had no idea that we could get new 4D56's in the US. I've been looking for these motors for a year and never run across that site. I guess the only negative is you don't get the tranny.

I'm either going to do this or buy a Toyota double cab and install the 1kz motor.

If I go this route, how hard will it be to find the glow plug electronics. I don't want to jerry rig anything! I installed a VW 1.9TD into my Samurai so I'm not a total newb at this. LOL

Oh, if your still looking for a stock one, check this out!!!

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1731387775.html


http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss290/Brandon42089/P1000715.jpg

That's Brandon Paulins truck. I sold him some parts. He is selling it to buy a 98-01 Toyota Tacoma. He says he needs and extended cab. It has a bit of rust in the rockers but he is sad to see it go.

Do you have a source for the glow plug electronics?

Do you have a source for the glow plug electronics?

Yes, I have a source in Japan. But he may be moving back to the states:evil:

Yes, I have a source in Japan. But he may be moving back to the states:evil:

Awesome! Can you keep me informed? I'd love to make this swap as easy as possible! My email address is cdalejef@bellsouth.net

Sure can do, but the glow controllers and resistors are not really necessary to get this engine to run efficiently. You can just wire up some toggle switches.

Sure can do, but the glow controllers and resistors are not really necessary to get this engine to run efficiently. You can just wire up some toggle switches.

I'd rather not go the toggle switch route unless I can't find the OEM system.

I'd rather not go the toggle switch route unless I can't find the OEM system.

I dont blame you.

The ARB bumper and the roof rack are on. This bumper looks awsome and it will even look better when I add the fiberglass fenders. There is also an aluminum air box which we added.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=7778

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=7779

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=7780

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=7776


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=7777

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=7774

Well I splurged today and bought some new wheels and tires for the truck. I blame 4wheelparts for running a Memorial Day Sale but it needed to be done. The current tires on the truck are just a bit too small. I went with the brand new General Grabber Competition tires. These tires can only be purchased through 4wheelparts.com and the have an exclusive on them for the next few months. I went with the 33x12.50x17's because they will stuff really well in the rear, the 35's were just too big and the 35's were a load range E instead of C which would make for a rough ride. For wheels I went with the XD Addicts because they are a good mix of old school and new school. I should have the on the truck by the end of next week.:)

http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=GT_GrabberDOT_Face_shdw.jpg&partNo=GEN&w=380

http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=GEN Grabber DOT.jpg&w=380&h=0&partNo=GEN&jeep-parts=true

http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=bXD7985.jpg&partNo=XD&w=380

Any rims look better then them stocker heep rims you've been rockin.......

Any rims look better then them stocker heep rims you've been rockin.......

Agreed.

What's the offset on thoses rims?

Agreed.

What's the offset on thoses rims?

They have a +12mm offset, the Jeep Rubicon rims I was "rockin" had a +45 offset, so they were sucked way in. These new Addicts will look great.

What made you go with the General's? Anything in particular?

What made you go with the General's? Anything in particular?

Nothing "made me" but I wanted a high speed offroad tire and when it comes to high speed offroad tires there are only 2 choices. The BFG BAJA's and now the General Grabbers. I also like the BAJA's but the BFG's are $500 a tire. The first time I saw the General's on the offroad circut I fell in love with them and I actually like them more than the BFG BAJA's. General's used to be a second teir tire, but General has reestablished themselves as one of the top racing tires since Continental bought them out a year or two ago. Continental has spent alot of money on research and development of this new racing tire and I think they have hit a homerun. Now they are back on top with BFG. I am guessing these Grabbers will be a huge hit with the offroading community. I have been waiting for over 9 months for these to come out and I am very happy to have them.

Well my tires showed up today. I am very pleased with the way they look on the truck. I think the size is just right and I really like how they look with these rims.:)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4685921387_00a2cfcc76.jpg


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4685921469_42d5567a95.jpg


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4686553798_8dcdf2a03a.jpg

That looks bad ass!!!:mr-t:

bad ass, fix the lights though :grinpimp:

Much better that the other rims.:smokin:

I think 35's would have been better, but that's my opinion.

So you needed a tire with a high speed rating? How fast are you actually planning on going? My Toyo A/T and M/T's are both rated at 100mph, are you planning on breaking 100mph? Sounds a little hairy on an SAS rig, now if you were still running the original IFS didn't that setup win Tecate Baja in the 80's? Maybe i'm lost but i thought you built that truck for wheeling/crawling?

I think 35's would have been better, but that's my opinion.

So you needed a tire with a high speed rating? How fast are you actually planning on going? My Toyo A/T and M/T's are both rated at 100mph, are you planning on breaking 100mph? Sounds a little hairy on an SAS rig, now if you were still running the original IFS didn't that setup win Tecate Baja in the 80's? Maybe i'm lost but i thought you built that truck for wheeling/crawling?

4d55+km132+5.13s+34s?=not 100:laughing:

I can't break 85(nor would I want too) in my 2.6/km145/4.625/31s I doubt you would want to push a diesel that hard and fast

4d55+km132+5.13s+34s?=not 100:laughing:

I can't break 85(nor would I want too) in my 2.6/km145/4.625/31s I doubt you would want to push a diesel that hard and fast

I have no trouble pushing it over 85mph. The speed limit on the freeways here in Utah is 80mph instead of 65mph or 75mph like you see other places. With the current setup it will go 85-90mph all day long and the top speed is around 104mph. I have added alot of extra power and cooling ability through mods so calling it a 4D55 is not really fair. It's more 4D56 than 4D55 these days. But even in its stock form it was much quicker and more powerful than my 2.6 ever was.

I think 35's would have been better, but that's my opinion.

So you needed a tire with a high speed rating? How fast are you actually planning on going? My Toyo A/T and M/T's are both rated at 100mph, are you planning on breaking 100mph? Sounds a little hairy on an SAS rig, now if you were still running the original IFS didn't that setup win Tecate Baja in the 80's? Maybe i'm lost but i thought you built that truck for wheeling/crawling?
I really considered running 35's but the I am happy I went with the 33's and they are a true 33" tire which means there 1/2" bigger than most 33's. I also checked it out and I think I would have lost some wheel travel in the front and rear by going with 35's because they would have rubbed the firewall at full lock.

I think alot of people are confused but it is not built for rock crawling, it is actually built for exploration/expedition and high speed desert prerunning. I bought a roof top tent to go over the bed this week. With that being said it will have no problems tackling Moab or the rubicon trail because of the lockers and body protection. At high speeds it's not as ideal as an independent long travel front suspension like you see on many prerunners, but the coilovers give it over 17" of travel in the front end so it does pretty well, actually it does really well. It just floats like a dream.

As far as speed goes, I have no trouble pushing 95-100mph but driving at 70mph on washboard roads is much harsher on tires than going 100 on the freeway. I need a tire that can take this type of punishment because in the west deserts of Utah you can drive for hours at on washboard roads at freeway speeds which is really ruogh on tires.

I think 35's would have been better, but that's my opinion.

So you needed a tire with a high speed rating? How fast are you actually planning on going? My Toyo A/T and M/T's are both rated at 100mph, are you planning on breaking 100mph? Sounds a little hairy on an SAS rig, now if you were still running the original IFS didn't that setup win Tecate Baja in the 80's? Maybe i'm lost but i thought you built that truck for wheeling/crawling?

Also, I forgot to mention in Utah if GVWR is under 4500lbs your only allowed to be at a maximum of 24" from the frame under the drivers door to the ground. Currently I am at right at 24" and 35" tires would have put me at 25" from the fram to the ground. I know it sounds trivial but yes they will pull you over and measure, esspecially in Moab.

I have condenced several of my other threads and info into this thread so people can follow the Build project more easily. Hope this helps.

After installing the km132 tranny with a divorced Atlas but it is giving more vibrations than I like at high speeds and it's hard to keep aligned because I do not have driveline between the Transmission and Tcase. The tcase is connected to slip yoke, so I have hatched an evil to marry my Atlas to a manual Mitsubishi tranny with out any adapters.

The plan is to use an FM145 transmission found in a 1985-87 Ford Ranger with a detatchable bellhousing and mate it to the engine using the proper 4D55 (2.3 Mitsubishi Turbo Diesel) bell housing Ford used back in the 80's. I am using a flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder and through out bearing from a 2.3 Turbo Diesel Ford Ranger. I ordered a new input shaft and retainer from Advanced adapters and I will convert my Atlas50 from divorced unit to married unit that will mate to the FM145 Tranny. I had a custom hydraulic clutch line made so I can connect my Master cylinder to my new slave cylinder. I had Nevada Speedometer make me a 12 " speedo adapter that will connect my Mitsubishi speedo cable to the Altas. So now I'll know how slow I'm going.
Bought a couple bellhousings for the swap. These will mate my 4D55 engine to an FM145 transmission, which will then marry to my Atlas. Goodby divorced Atlas.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4769464164_ac3ff46abd.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4768825731_79ce885204.jpg
More parts, these are the parts that are needed to convert my Atlas II from a divorced case to a case that will marry an FM145. I have a new retainer, input shaft and some seals. Also pictured is my new bellhousing.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4778302107_6e14aa936a.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4778937220_1fe255da02.jpg
My new FM145 transmission :D

I also bought a new shifter from Ford so that it shifts smooth. I will need to be modified and bend the stick so that the shifter clears the console.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4789479330_1a97bf0361.jpg

With Mitch's help at Mt. Logan we Married the FM145 to the Atlas tcase and with the help of a friend we mocked it into place and built a tranny mount. I still have a few issues to sort out like the slave cylinder connection. But for the most part, it looks really good. I also need to get an adapter for the Speedo. I also had to use BFH to clearence the tunnel.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4885862543_0cf9f10736_b.jpg





http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4885857051_ed234100be_b.jpg




Speedo cable connection from my Mitsubishi Pickup. Nevada Speedometer is making a connecter to go from this connection to my Atlas Tcase.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4885860565_da18d13664_b.jpg

Hey, was the original transmission a km145? How diffucult was the km132 2wd swap? How much different was the mounting, clutch, shifters, etc.?

There is a Toyota FJ80 solid axle at the yard with 4.10s, I thought I could km132 swap with a samurai transfer case...

132 bolts right in. But the diesels have a hydraulic clutch and the gassers have a cable system.

this thing is awesome. any new updates or wheeling pics? the look would have been sweet with the 35's but i see what your gettin at with the 33s

this thing is awesome. any new updates or wheeling pics? the look would have been sweet with the 35's but i see what your gettin at with the 33s

Unfortunately no real updates. I am having clutch issues. after troubleshooting the clutch system for the last 2 weeks I came to a conclusion the slave cylinder was bad which sucks because it's an internal slave. Today we replaced the slave and I am no longer leaking from the slave, but I am still not getting enough pressure to disengage the clutch. I figured I would give it a day and rebleed the system and see if there is an improvement.

spence, I bought an 87 raider the other week, it needs the timing dialed in then its going to the shop for new shoes 33s and exhaust and probly end up with a weber carb on it..... eventually ill have to buy your 4.88s for it

spence, I bought an 87 raider the other week, it needs the timing dialed in then its going to the shop for new shoes 33s and exhaust and probly end up with a weber carb on it..... eventually ill have to buy your 4.88s for it

I sold the 4.88's a few months ago, but 4.62 should work great for you little Raider if plan to go with 33" tires.

I sold the 4.88's a few months ago, but 4.62 should work great for you little Raider if plan to go with 33" tires.

I'm doing alright with the 4.62s and 38s, its just slow. Not that it was fast with 28s or 31s. :laughing:

Spence, I hope the fm145 works out for you its a really cool build.

I'm doing alright with the 4.62s and 38s, its just slow. Not that it was fast with 28s or 31s. :laughing:

Spence, I hope the fm145 works out for you its a really cool build.

The FM is going to work out, we have just had to troubleshoot a few issues. The rebuilt slave was not working properly so I was leaking clutch fluid everywhere. After replacing the slave it still would not hold pressure but I was no longer leaking clutch fluid. We replaced the master cylinder and now I am getting pressure but it is not disengaging all the way in first and reverse.

So I am thinking I may need to go with a larger master cylinder from V6 Montero. Is any one aware if the V6 Monty has a larger master cylinder?

yeah, the v6 is bigger

yeah, the v6 is bigger

That looks like the way I will have to go. I think the one I got from the autoparts store was made for a Starion which is way too small. For some reson the autoparts store thinks the 2.3 diesel uses the same master cylinder as the Starion.:shaking:

The FM is going to work out, we have just had to troubleshoot a few issues. The rebuilt slave was not working properly so I was leaking clutch fluid everywhere. After replacing the slave it still would not hold pressure but I was no longer leaking clutch fluid. We replaced the master cylinder and now I am getting pressure but it is not disengaging all the way in first and reverse.

So I am thinking I may need to go with a larger master cylinder from V6 Montero. Is any one aware if the V6 Monty has a larger master cylinder?

Hi Spence,

I have a Montero V6 spare however it looks exactly like the one in my 4 cyl. I'll get some measurements & photos later today to verify.

What about looking into a MC from a Ranger?

The Master Cylinder off a ranger is a completely different setup and would be a major PITA to setup. I looked at the V6 as well yesterday, but it looks the same as the 4 cylinder units. I am thinking I may have to go with an aftermarket unit which is large enoungh to displace as much fluid as the OEM Ford unit.

Yeah, the milage is way up since switching to the 1983 federal injection pump. A friend and I had a suspision that the injection pumps off the '83 Mitsubishi Pickups were far more efficient than those that came on the '84-85 trucks. It was probably the single best upgrade I have done to my truck. Not only does it return better mpg but I definately have more power.

Since switching to the '83 pump the truck has a completely different sound. I get that cool diesel ping when I hold the rpm's constant like the big Cummins trucks. I used to get the diesel clatter but never did I get the ping.

I have owned alot of little trucks over the years like a 94 toyota with a 22re, a dakota with 3.8 magnum, chevy Luv diesels, and a mitsubishi with 2.6 and none of those engines have the moving power of these little Mitsubishi Diesels. I wish I could get my hands on another one and just keep it bone stock.
hi i have a 1983 mitsubishi turbo diesel with original 50000 miles for sale on ebay motors. it is item # 330638645806 please take a look. i am not a truck guy. i got this lead thru one of your members. thank you newjerseyed

The Master Cylinder off a ranger is a completely different setup and would be a major PITA to setup. I looked at the V6 as well yesterday, but it looks the same as the 4 cylinder units. I am thinking I may have to go with an aftermarket unit which is large enoungh to displace as much fluid as the OEM Ford unit.
hi i have a 1983 mitsubishi 4wd turbo diesel pickup truck with original 50000 miles for sale on ebay motors. i am not a truck guy . i got this lead thru one of your viewers. please take a look. it id item# 330638645806 thank you newjerseyed

hi i have a 1983 mitsubishi 4wd turbo diesel pickup truck with original 50000 miles for sale on ebay motors. i am not a truck guy . i got this lead thru one of your viewers. please take a look. it id item# 330638645806 thank you newjerseyed

Yeah I saw it a few days ago. You're up against a few issues, rust being the biggest issue. These trucks are more prone to rust than newer vehicles, but when compared to other trucks of that era like the Isuzu, Toyota, Chevy, and Ford, these little trucks are pretty rust resistant. That one has about as much rustas I have ever seen. It's not very hard to find a completely rust free specimen. The other issue you're up against is the '83 model year is the least desirable because many of the engine parts are obsolete. The '83 model year also makes 10% less power and is much less reliable than 84-85 model year engines. Due to overheating and head issues, Mitsubishi made many upgrades for the 1984 model year. They redesigned the head, injectors, glowplugs, ecu, injection pump and added a wastegated turbo. You can still get parts to this day for the 84-85 engines because Mitsubishi is still using using this rendition of the 4D55 to this very day in many overseas markets. Thirty years from now you will still be able to come buy parts for the 84-85 engines, but many parts for the 83 engines are already obsolete and the owners are having to spend thousands to convert them to the newer injectors, heads etc.

Personally I would look for a donor vehicle. I would swap the dash as well because that is the only VIN on the whole vehicle. Then you don't have to worry about any red tape. Just look for a rust free 83-86 pickup with a 2.6 engine. You will need to make a few mods to the fire wall but its all pretty straight forward.