So I going with a divorce mounted Atlas transfercase. I was just at Tom Woods Drive Shafts and they are adapting my stock slip yoke to fit a 1310 ujoint which will hook directly into my Tcase. Because it is such a tight fit with the tcase, there will only be one ujoint between the slip yoke and tcase. I hope I don't get to many vibrations.

so you're keeping the mitsu case? Thats awesome! keep us posted!

so you're keeping the mitsu case? Thats awesome! keep us posted!

I am not keeping the mitsu case, I am just keeping the Mitsu tranny. I have swapped in a 2wd transmission from an '83 mitsubishi diesel and had it seriously upgraded but it still has a slip yoke on the back which mean I have to divorce the Tcase. So the slip yoke is being modified to a 1310 Ujoint fitting so it will bolt directly into my divorced Atlas instead of connecting to the rear driveshaft.

But you are right, I guess I could have used the mitsu tcase somehow as another gear reducer, I would just have had to figure out a way to seal off that front slip yoke so all my oil did drian out.

True, forgot about the slip on the front. Are you worried about the KM132 at all? I know the KM series of trannies aren't that great, but then again thats under certain circumstances like 35s and stock gears, turbos, etc.. You might be alright with 5.13 gears though. Is the slip yoke the same in the 2wd trannies as the tcases? UPraider on the wire was looking for a good yoke on the front he said he kept breaking his on his 2.6.

True, forgot about the slip on the front. Are you worried about the KM132 at all? I know the KM series of trannies aren't that great, but then again thats under certain circumstances like 35s and stock gears, turbos, etc.. You might be alright with 5.13 gears though. Is the slip yoke the same in the 2wd trannies as the tcases? UPraider on the wire was looking for a good yoke on the front he said he kept breaking his on his 2.6.

From my experience the KM trannies are pretty good. The reason they fail is due to neglect rather than abuse. If you keep the fluids changed regularly you should be in good shape. Also when you have a KM tranny rebuilt it is important to replace all worn parts especially the forks and cluster gear if the show excessive wear. I find it funny that guys complain about the KM series Trannies. I guess they expect a tranny with 200k miles and the original oil since the 80's to run flawlessly. These trannies like oil changes every 25K miles.

As for the slip yoke, the 2wd and the 4wd use the same rear slip yoke. I have never had any issues with breaking parts, including the slip yokes but I think gearing has alot to do with that.

Good to know, didn't know I should change the fluid every year thanks for the tip :D

He did a cheap SAS while still using the dinky 2.6 front ujoints (they do work fine in IFS application for others reading) I don't recall him doing any thing about the slip yoke it might be just him tearing it up when the yoke is at full stretch about to fall off...

How are you setting it up? Try to go flat with the frame rails or?
Also, what is tom woods charging you for just the slip yoke?

pictures man

Because the atlas is sooo big, it difficult to tuck it up into the frame rails but it wont be that big of a deal. There should be 24" of clearance between the ground and the tcase. Also the big belly skid will protect all of the vitals. As far as price, I am not sure yet, but I am guessing it will be around $75-100 for the adjustment to the slip yoke.

I'll post some pics of the slip yoke when I pic it up on Monday.

Well I picked up the slip yoke from Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts today and this thing is awsome. It was $100 for the machining and adaptation to the slip yoke. They just machined off the old ujoint connection, then pressed on the plate with 4 bolt holes and then it was welded on. The bolt-on 1310 Ujoint adapter was an aditional $40. I also got several free hats.:D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5762

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=654&pictureid=5763

Atlas? Damn, BLINGBLING! I hate to say it but if you are going to drop that kind of coin on a case, why not divorced mounted toyota, dual ultimate(2.28/4.7) cases, inchworm lefty rear case with a bobby long output? Way cheaper, tons of gearing and very strong. The ott divorce mount adapter accepts tacoma and standard toyota u-joints. I re-drilled the flange to accept the d-50 drive line u-joint, worked awesome. I know the atlas is way strong with good gearing, but still hard justifying the cost. Just my 2 cents. Still going to be cool either way.

Atlas? Damn, BLINGBLING! I hate to say it but if you are going to drop that kind of coin on a case, why not divorced mounted toyota, dual ultimate(2.28/4.7) cases, inchworm lefty rear case with a bobby long output? Way cheaper, tons of gearing and very strong. The ott divorce mount adapter accepts tacoma and standard toyota u-joints. I re-drilled the flange to accept the d-50 drive line u-joint, worked awesome. I know the atlas is way strong with good gearing, but still hard justifying the cost. Just my 2 cents. Still going to be cool either way.

Yeah, I looked at alot of options including the same setup as you have, the lefty inchworm, a divorced NP205, sticking with the stock case, and a NP241OR Rubicon case. But the more I thought about it, the more I realized I should go with the Atlas. The Atlas allows me to do several things which I really wanted like the ability to do front digs. I also like the fact that it is a gear driven case, and it allows me to mount the shifters where ever I like in the cab. I am trying to keep the interior as stock as possible with the exception of a bench seat out of a newer Tacoma and an interior roll cage. As far as price goes, the Atlas and the Inchworm Lefty were the same price.

Besides, you'll be able to put it in every rig you build till you die, or break it :D

Yeah I really thought long and hard about going with a toyota case but I would have needed to do a lefty conversion or adapt it to a taco case to get the drivers side drop that I needed. It just comes to show there is definitely more than one way to skin a cat.

I am thinking that the 5:1 should be low enough, cause I really have no plans to ever go with tires larger than 34" and even that is stretching it. This truck is built more for adventure and exploring than it is rock crawling. Although it will be a great rockcrawler, I have other plans in mind like exploring the endless amount of trails here in the deserts of Utah, Nevada, Wyoming and Idaho. I also have considered the idea of doing a possible run in the BAJA 1000 (class 7 series) in the near future but that's still a year or two out.

Thats cool. You should look into 37's though. Way better tire selection. Ive been thinking about building a go fast, pre-runner type truck for awhile. Since I finished the crawler. Building my own long travel 2wd ifs and everything. Actually im thinking building either a raider, 1st or 2nd gen mighty max truggy, or pre-runner. I think im going to take everything out of the blue diesel to start over and put the engine in a carolla. We will see though.

Yeah, I been looking at tires lately and I am probably going to go with the Goodyear wranglers with Kevlar. I love the assymentrical tread.

Are you talking about the km2?

Goodyear wranglers with Kevlar.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_6d2J4H20AN8/SYuV3YDDRFI/AAAAAAAAFac/DyF9gqMHu4w/s400/off_+road+1+goodyear_tires+mt_r+kevlar+wrangler+tr uck+tire.jpg

Those are the ones. I plan on getting the 305/70/17's which are 34.1 tall and 12.2 wide.

a 305/70/17 should be equal to a 33.8x12R17. . . .either way.

ok.

since you dicided on divorced since you have the wheelbase to accomodate it why the single speed 5.0 atlas? i understand that it will never ever break behind your motor, but there are other options that a nearly as strong, seeing as they are behind v8s and supercharged v6s all the time with no breakage, as well as trucks much more modified. . . .that being said.

i understand you have drivers drop axles, odd axle choice. . . but that doesnt matter, your atlas cost you $2500 assuming you did no upgrading to it and that doesnt even come with cable shifters. and your slip yoke was another $140. and you are stuck with either 1:1 or 5:1.

OTT Divorce Adapter $325, Toyota Crawl-Box (2.28 ratio) $75, MarlinCrawler Dual Case Adapter $370, Toyota T-Case for the rear $100, MarlinCrawler 4.7:1 Gear Set $450, Inchworm Lefty Back-Half Case $800, and of course the Longfield Chromoly Output $220

thats $2340, has a 2.28, 4.7, and 10.72 low range, would never fail on you and is much more versitile than a singe speed for any rock crawler, expedition, or DD.

i heard the part about the bench seat and that is easily over come with a custom tripple stick that would allow the sticks to come out in nearly the same spot as the stock shifter.

as for the slipyoke you simply take the flange off the axle end of a stock D50 driveline and mate it to the slipyoke, and it just so happens that the centering ring from a D50 flange is the same as the one machined in to OTT adapter so all you need to do is clamp the D50 flange on the OTT adapter and drill your 4 holes, and its free.

everything in this set up is gear drive and some is chromoloy. of course you would lose the front dig capability unless you got a disconnect, buttttt you dont want to be doing that with that JK44 anyway. . .:boom:


not that an atlas isnt cool and all, its just why?

It's all a crap shoot in my opinion and going with the atlas leaves me several options for upgrades in the future. I really didn't want to patch a case togeather and it's good thing I didn't because the Atlas barely fits as is. I already had to add a 1" body lift and cut up half the floor to fit the Atlas.

Initially I planned on going with a divorced 4 speed Atlas but appearantly AA cannot divorce the 4 speed cases. I looked really hard at the 3 speed stak mini but they could not answer all my questions.

As far as the front end blowing up I am not concerned with that at all. It has been sleeved inside and out to increase the strength of the stock tubes.It's also been gusseted. I should be able to handle 40" tires with out any issues with the power I am putting out. Rock-Slide Engineering makes a great kit for up strengthening these axles. The reason I went with the JK axles was I picked them up for $2500 because I have connections with a local dealer. I know they are not dana 60's but they are much stronger than dana 44's. I like the fact the front is a high pinion and they came loaded with disc brakes and selectable lockers. I love the brakes and they are a must on any offroad rig. Basically it just came down to best bang for the buck and these axles were a good deal. I had a set of 44's I planned on using but it was going to cost more to rebuild those than to just buy new jk axles.

As for future upgrade options, it allows me to have the option of switching to a FM146 and marrying my Altas to the FM146 or placing it in another rig altogether. From all my wheeling experience I have never needed more than about 100:1 crawl ratio on 34" tires. I always say, proper rockcrawling with a manual tranny demands that you have your tire circumference and crawl ratio about equal. For instance if your tires circumference is 200" then you beter have a 200:1 crawl ratio to move those meats at the right speed for crawling. Auto trannies can get away with a 2:1 ratio.

As for the 305/70/17's or 34.1x12.2x17 tire size those are the sizes Goodyear lists for that tire.

You wont break the axel housing, just the shafts. The jk44 is a dana44 third with dana30 outers. Bobby Long just came out with a d44 birffeild that should fit your axel. Might want to look into it. I wouldnt go over a 37 with a d44. Ask Fawk Awph about his way blinged out, fully built d44 on 40's.

You wont break the axel housing, just the shafts. The jk44 is a dana44 third with dana30 outers. Bobby Long just came out with a d44 birffeild that should fit your axel. Might want to look into it. I wouldnt go over a 37 with a d44. Ask Fawk Awph about his way blinged out, fully built d44 on 40's.

I think your terribly confused. The JK44 does not share any parts or specs with the dann 44 or the dana 30. It between a dana 44 and a dana 60. You start comparing a JK44 to a Dana 44 and the JK44 is much beefier.

Well I don't like the Idea- but wish you luck- One U joint is a bad idea - and welding that plate to the slip yoke barrel is not another -But time will tell- Jess

I think your terribly confused. The JK44 does not share any parts or specs with the dann 44 or the dana 30. It between a dana 44 and a dana 60. You start comparing a JK44 to a Dana 44 and the JK44 is much beefier.

from what ive read about the JK44 it has the strongest D44 R&P ever made, but is still the standard D44 size. as for the tubes, they are smaller by quite a bit, although thicker than the TJ44, but you have them sleeved so you are good in that department as well. RCV makes, and has made a birf for these axles for a while now, so you are good there.

the only issues people have been having is ball joint failure, they are smaller than a standard D44. they also have a unit bearing that is is not as stong as the D44 double tapered bearing design, and of course the no stock locking hubs or histeer at the moment.

to call them a cross between a D44 and a D60 is well, stetching it. side by side with a D44 i would call them an equal, but not stronger by any means in stock form.

and proper rock crawling with a 4cyl would be in the 200:1 range on a 37, and 220:1 on anything above a 42. you formula puts me at 131:1, where i am currently at 170:1 and do not have nearly the crawl ratio i need.