First, I've searched and read just about everything I could find.

1988 YJ 4.2l Manual right now.

Here's what I am building up right now.

SBC 383, Holley Truck Avenger(got a great deal on it, otherwise I would have gone Qjet)
TH400, NP205

I am looking for info on water pumps, fuel pumps, torque convertor and headers.

I have to run an electric pump. I thought I had read somewhere that you can change the in tank pump to a Mustang style pump. Is that true?? If so, is that enough fuel to support this engine? If that pump won't work, can I just run the stock pump plus an Electric Holley blue???

Water pumps- What is a good one for the money and still fit in the space avaialble?? Should I automatically look for the "short style"?

Torque convertors- Where to find a nice low rpm stall? Doesn't B&M have those RV ones? Everyone I see is like 2000-2400RPM with a 350...But with the 383, that will raise those figures. I need something that is like 900-1200 with a 350.

Headers- Who is making good shorty headers that don't cost a fortune???

Any info or direction is appreciated!!

Thanks,
Steve

TTT

BTT

I am putting together a 383 right now too 'cept mines going in an 87 yota but anyhoo, Summit has shorty blockhuggers for @75 bux or so, So far as fuel pumps pretty much any external electric pump will do, your jeep is carbed right now right? WHich means mech fuel pump onthe side of the 4.2 right?!? (Im not a jeep man so I dont know much about them) but, if it has an electric in-tank pump then use that one with a regulator so you wont hurt the carb. SO far a torque convertors I am building my engine for mid to upper rpm ranges so I am gonna end up with a 3500-4000 stall convertor in mine so I am not much help at all there, but I bet if ya called summit or talked to a transmission builder he could advise you what to get. Water pumps depend on what accesory bracket that you have orhave access to. Id imagine that a short one would make for lots more room under the hood, but it doesnt matter on mine because the radiators goin inthe bed, I just need a high volume pump to match my acc brackets. Hopefully some of this helps you out a little bit.

Good Luck

-j-rOd

I went through my swap last winter/spring and here's my two cents:

Headers:
Buy good ones (thick flanges) or you'll be sorry. Anything smaller than 5/16ths thick at the flange is tough to get to seal. 3/8ths is better. Also, make sure you use copper gaskets at the flanges and collectors (or, better yet, a gasketless header, then you just need the collector gasket). If you aren't willing to pony up the dough for a good header, go with some high-flow manifolds (Corvette ram's horn manifolds are good). You'll be MUCH happier in the long run. I went with Sanderson gasketless street rod headers and they weren't cheap, but I'm very happy with them. (no leaks ;) )

Fuel Pump:
If you're going carbed you shouldn't NEED an electric fuel pump. A good mechanical fuel pump would probably do you fine. Your 4.2 doesn't have an in-tank pump to begin with so you shouldn't need to mess around dropping your tank and can just use the plumbing as-is.

Torque Converter:
I'd steer clear of an RV torque converter and have one made special for your application if you can't find an aftermarket one that suits you. An RV converter is designed for a much heavier vehicle and would behave completely different in a light Jeep. If you look hard, I'm sure you can find a "truck" converter that would work fine. Check Summit and other mags like that.

Water Pump:
Definitely go with the short style. It gives you more options for brackets, fan (electric vs. engine-driven) and radiator shroud clearance. You can always add spacers.

HTH,
Jake

Thanks guys!!

One thing...I have no clue what kind of pump my Jeep has now, never really looked. The fuel pump will need to be electric as my new engine will not accept a mechanical, at least as ffar as I've been told by my friend. My friend building the motor has built hundreds of SBC's so I trust him on that.

I guess I will have to call Summit or B&M for the convertor. And I will make sure and get some quality headers.

Any other tips for the "little stuff" that I probably have forgotten??

Thanks again,
Steve

A 258 has the fuel pump on the passenger's side of the block.

Your 383 not taking a mechanical fuel pump must have something to do with the crank... Or perhaps it's a newer block casting and has it blocked off (my Ramjet is like that).

In any case just pick up a good quality low-pressure electric fuel pump from Holley, Mallory or Walbro and you'll be fine. You don't have to worry much about fuel pressure with a carb so an in-tank pump isn't necessary. Just tap into the fuel supply line from the tank and use a frame rail mounted pump. Mount it close to the tank for best performance and plumb it back into your existing fuel lines. Make sure you get the supply line and not the return line. ;)

One other tip: Get some good engine mounts. M.O.R.E weld-in bomb-proof mounts are good and I had good luck with my (less expensive) bolt-in AA cradle mount.

Good luck,
Jake

The block is pretty new. I think mid 90's. It was installed by GM a few years into my buddy's truck.

Should I need to run a fuel regulator??

Originally posted by Kicker
The block is pretty new. I think mid 90's. It was installed by GM a few years into my buddy's truck.

Should I need to run a fuel regulator??

Depends on the carb. If the carb incorporates a return line Like your stock carb, you probably won't need one if you choose your pump carefully and don't overdo it on the GPM.

If the carb has no return then yes, you'll probably need to regulate the pressure at whatever the carburetor manufacturer recommends.

HTH,
Jake

Thanks...You have helped!!

I will see how far I get now :)

Steve

maybe since you don't have a waterpump you could get a serpentine belt setup off a Camaro firebird or GM truck? The serpentine belt setups use a reverse rotation water pump

the crank? the fuel pump pushrod runs of a lobe on the front og the cam on a SBC. anyways, it may be blocked off on the block, youd have to check, anyways, just thought I'd let you know for future reference. oh and for the water pump, it's not always neccesary for it to be the high this and high that one. too much flow is just as bad as not enough flow. if the water is being pushed through the rad. too fast it won't have time to dissipate the heat. anyways, just my .02......

-Scott

Originally posted by SCOTTS_4X
too much flow is just as bad as not enough flow. if the water is being pushed through the rad. too fast it won't have time to dissipate the heat.


Actually, more flow is prefered...laminar flow of coolant through a heat exchanger is bad because you develop something called the lamiar boundry layer. This is effectively a none moving film of water around the edges of your flow. This layer doesn't allow the propagation of the heat, in your coolant, to your radiator fins. It kinda acts like an insulator. You want turbulent water flow which occurs at higher flow rates.

you might want to check into using a converter that is built for the gm diesels that uses the lower stall speed that the gas engines. I put some block hugger headers on a jeep I built last winter for a friend had to use a mini starter due to clearance problems with stock starter and headers. I've run my 383 with the vette rams horns for a few years now.