There are some pretty cool threads on other forums so i figured id start one here.

Post up your best welds.

No BS tack tack comments!!!! Just let people post up pics of their welds. Even if its not up to YOUR standards.

My camera can never focus on weld pictures but this should be enough to start the thread off.

First 2 pics are some tig on very thin tubing for an intake system. Between the galvinaize coat trying to flare up and the super thin material it was a pain.

3rd pic is tig weave on larger plate and than tigging 2 razor blades together :grinpimp:

4th pic is np232 flux overhead fill for Full Penetration weld.

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1687.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1689.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1684.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/IMG_0107.jpg

How's this?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_2659.jpg

Shock mounts/lower spring plates? on an old willys wagon.

How's this?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_2659.jpg

Shock mounts/lower spring plates? on an old willys wagon.

now that's perdy right thar!

How's this?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_2659.jpg

Shock mounts/lower spring plates? on an old willys wagon.


Where is the weld...............Oh, there it is.


NICE:smokin:

Some from my chassis:

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/tay1359/Buggy057.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/tay1359/Buggy058.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h239/travis4343/DSC00919.jpghttp://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h239/travis4343/IMG_5253.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h239/travis4343/IMG_5446.jpghttp://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h239/travis4343/IMG_5632.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h239/travis4343/IMG_3863.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h239/travis4343/IMG_5647.jpg

Ill play

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0736.jpg

2" SCH 80 j-prep closed root 5g

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0759.jpg

6" SCH80 open root 6g

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0750.jpg

Root pass of above

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0544.jpg

SS oil pan for a cat motor.

Im sure I have some more around here somewhere...

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq201/Marcella_manifolds/elbow003.jpg?t=1239424272

Not mine but...it is pretty.

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq201/Marcella_manifolds/IMG_0822.jpg?t=1246160131

Nudder

How's this?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_2659.jpg

Shock mounts/lower spring plates? on an old willys wagon.

wow is that awesome... I wish I could do this, going to be awhile.

I am inspired to practice.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0103.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0147.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0139.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/DSC00955.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/DSC00954.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0440.jpg

quick one from last night. I have some better ones somewhere, but I'm too lazy to search.

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq201/Marcella_manifolds/elbow003.jpg?t=1239424272

Not mine but...it is pretty.

um aren't the welds suppose to be flat or concave??

um aren't the welds suppose to be flat or concave??

um no.

From work.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i86/jmleban/P1010164.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i86/jmleban/P1010177.jpg

Mig:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/2009/crossmember/crossmember129.jpg

Stick:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/Other%20Stuff/DSC04995.jpg

Hey RobG is that 311 flux?

Hey RobG is that 311 flux?

Nope. Just run of the mill .045 er70s-6 with stargon.

um no.

Excessive convexity?? :confused:


http://www.twi.co.uk/content/jk68.html

Excessive convexity can be a bad thing (usually shows as cold lap), but being slightly convex is not automatically a defect. If a fillet weld is too concave it probably wont have proper throat thickness. Usually slightly concave to slightly convex is acceptable.

On a butt joint you absolutely want convex welds, flat at the very minimum.

Excessive convexity?? :confused:


http://www.twi.co.uk/content/jk68.html

when you get weld tolerances ... they usually show up like this

GTAW, Fillet, 1/4" (-0, +1/16")

underfilled welds will generally always fail ... as stated, its call insufficient throat.

some buildup is allowed.

when i taught welding our tolerances were (-0, +1/8) (which is more strict than AWS d1.1 or ASME sect IX, the codes i qualed my students to.) ...


but in the same respect i have seen a few tolerances come through as (-0, +0) ... not always fun.

Wow!

During the summer of either '81 or '82, I worked for a company called appropriately enough, Custom Tube. I spent 80+ hours/week fabbing tubing assemblies for International Harvester. Lotsa oil filler tubes, fuel tank cradles, etc.


Even spending that much time practicing, I wasn't as good as you guys! Some of those welds look better than machine/robotic welds!

um aren't the welds suppose to be flat or concave??

Generally the only downside to a concave profile on a fillet weld is that it is harder to measure the throat, a concave fillet weld profile is preferred where it may be subject to HCF, IE vibratory service due to the lower stress concentration factors. Undersized concave fillet welds are rarely an issue for anyone with even a basic knowledge of weld joints and access to a fillet weld gauge.

bump

Some of those welds look better than machine/robotic welds!


x2,
by some miracle, every once in a while a pretty weld will show up on my work (and in the right location :laughing: ),
then, just when I think I know what I'm doing, the rest of the day comes out :nuke:

Not up to Booger Welds standards...better delete it.

70 amps.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii206/JRsBronco/DSC_0016.jpg

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq201/Marcella_manifolds/IMG_0822.jpg?t=1246160131

Nudder

Where did you find this - looks either like a Big Block Chrysler or Pontiac. If its Pontiac, I would like to know who builds them.

70 amps.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii206/JRsBronco/DSC_0016.jpg

That is amazingly similar to what I made more than I can count of for International Harvester back in the early 80s.

Imagine welding things like that for 16 hours/day. Damn good thing I was 19/20!

My welds still didn't look that good.

So this is where we all whore ourselves out right???? :flipoff2:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/tmorgan444/Tacoma%20LT/IMG_5038.jpg

That has to be the most badass jig table ever

tmorgan4,

Beautiful work, are these going on a 1 car or a trophy truck?

Also, can you give us a ball park on what that tapped plate cost? (I've been looking at doing something similar for making ATV arms).

Thanks!

Where did you find this - looks either like a Big Block Chrysler or Pontiac. If its Pontiac, I would like to know who builds them.

Looks like john marcellas work, marcella manifolds.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97936&highlight=marcella

Tis John's Marcella's.
More pics and a phone number http://v8tvshow.com/forum/index.php?topic=2016.0

Kind of intimidating posting these here. :D This is one I squirted out of the glue gun a few days ago..

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2175/1522/5435760945_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2175/1522/5435760946_large.jpg

Only got a chance to weld one joint tonight before it got dark but id thought id share. :grinpimp:

tig
http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1718.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1716.jpg

tmorgan4,

Beautiful work, are these going on a 1 car or a trophy truck?

Also, can you give us a ball park on what that tapped plate cost? (I've been looking at doing something similar for making ATV arms).

Thanks!

That has to be the most badass jig table ever

Thanks! Trying not to derail this thread too bad but I can answer some questions.

Unfortunately...these are just going on a Tacoma. :flipoff2: I came up with the new arm's geometry but Dan (triaged) on here is responsible for the CAD work and actual design of the arm and fixture.

The table is 1.5" thick and was supposed to be 24"x24" with holes every inch (24 holes wide and long) but the material was undersized to begin with and by the time it was square there was only room for 22 holes. That explains why the part holding the uniball is hanging off the table. :(

The material only cost a few hundred bucks but it needed a lot of machine work to get it square and flat upon arrival. I got a quote from a very good machine shop for a 24x24x1" table with holes every inch, tapped to 3/8-16 for $688. It's $50 less to not tap them but all 484 holes on this table were done by hand and I'd have a machine do it next time.

Send me a PM if you want more info....sorry about getting this thread off topic. :(

I keep trying to get my camera to focus correctly. I will try more this week.

I keep trying to get my camera to focus correctly. I will try more this week.

I asked my wife how she takes the pics because i can never get them to focus right.

She said put your camera on close up mode without flash. Also taking pics with flash on when its dark will show the welds a bit.

All the welds i have posted have been junk compared to the stuff i weld when she isnt home but i cant get the damn camera to work.

Only got a chance to weld one joint tonight before it got dark but id thought id share. :grinpimp:

tig
http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1718.jpg

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx97/rominefabrication/DSCN1716.jpg

I think you may have posted in the wrong thread :flipoff2:

But seriously.. your welds have a LOT of undercut. Add more filler and maybe not run so hot. A better fitup would help a lot also. Practice makes perfect :)

I think you may have posted in the wrong thread :flipoff2:

But seriously.. your welds have a LOT of undercut. Add more filler and maybe not run so hot. A better fitup would help a lot also. Practice makes perfect :)

Ill take pics in the light today. There is some undercut on the top part but the bottom looks good. And my fit up was perfect but i ran it in too hot. I know they dont look perfect but im trying to keep the thread moving. :flipoff2:

Well you are moving it in the wrong direction.

:flipoff2:

Where did you find this - looks either like a Big Block Chrysler or Pontiac. If its Pontiac, I would like to know who builds them.

John Marcella
Marcella Manifolds
ph.248-259-6696

here is some of his art work

http://yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127750&highlight=welds

http://yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97936&highlight=welds

There's an outfit in Santa Maria, CA that makes similar intakes. Hogan's Racing Manifolds (not a plug, just pretty pictures, never used their services)

How's this?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_2659.jpg

Shock mounts/lower spring plates? on an old willys wagon.

I'm like in love with this weld. I cant stop looking at it. Just wow.

these are on the jeep. if i remeber to take the camera to work sometime i could snap a few more

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/m715/m715251.jpg

no marcellas intake, but its all i got

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/m715/m715401.jpg

I've been tigging steel for a few months now, but this was my first time tigging aluminum. I'd like think it's not too shabby for a beginer. It's not pretty but after bending some others I did they are pretty strong. Used a Lincoln Squarewave 350 @ 80 amps. .100" aluminum.

I know this isn't really the thread for advice, but please critique them, I need all the help I can get.

http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/weld3.jpg

http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/weld1.jpg

http://www.ilostmymind.com/upload/weld2.jpg

From a link I built the other day... (sorry for the crappy resolution)

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/tay1359/iphone062.jpg

lame...ALL THESE WELDS IN THE FLAT POSITION...arent there any REAL welders in here??:flipoff2:

From a link I built the other day... (sorry for the crappy resolution)

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/tay1359/iphone062.jpg

dont let your wife see that!!! why you welding up weiners anyhow?? :rainbow: :D

Here's a couple from the coyote build in my sigline. All done by Josh Wrightsman(shortbus).

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=338632&stc=1&d=1196231553
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=340604&stc=1&d=1197249008
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/330/img0384editedhb8.jpg
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=339380&stc=1&d=1196578216
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/4153/img0208wd0.jpg
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=336021&stc=1&d=1194938321
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=369071&stc=1&d=1210276924

I'm running low on argon but i may fire up the TIG tonight and try to make something worthy of this thread.

Here's a couple from the coyote build in my sigline. All done by Josh Wrightsman(shortbus).


I'm running low on argon but i may fire up the TIG tonight and try to make something worthy of this thread.

Shouldn't you be using a staple gun or needle and thread? :flipoff2: Or do I have the wrong guy?:emb:

Soon to be Physician?

In process verticle up.

Here's a couple from the coyote build in my sigline. All done by Josh Wrightsman(shortbus).

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=336021&stc=1&d=1194938321

I'm running low on argon but i may fire up the TIG tonight and try to make something worthy of this thread.

thats some darn nice fab work, but theres a downhand weld on a 3/8'' thick caliper bracket here...nickle and dimeing you there, but thats a less than ideal technique for such a thick piece of metal...

In process verticle up.

finally a weld that took a little skill...dual shield, 232 or core 8?

Dual shield.

my spring hangers were all out of position :flipoff2:

i never have a camera at work where all of my real welding happens. otherwise i could give you some out of position stuff and more heliarc too

ryan

Shouldn't you be using a staple gun or needle and thread? :flipoff2: Or do I have the wrong guy?:emb:

Soon to be Physician?


You've got the right guy although sometimes I wonder if I made the right choice (not really but LONG days of studying and threads like these make me miss days in the shop ALOT). I bought a diversion 165 TIG last year and have a couple fab tools here in my rental house's garage to keep me sane and blow off the steam on the weekends.

Camera wont focus, guess I cant make "pretty" welds :laughing: I tried with/without flash, different lighting, etc. My camera doesnt suck THAT bad. Works great for everything else :rolleyes:

Camera wont focus, guess I cant make "pretty" welds :laughing: I tried with/without flash, different lighting, etc. My camera doesnt suck THAT bad. Works great for everything else :rolleyes:

Apologies if you already know this....

Press the little flower button/icon on your camera for close up pics.

A few of mine. All MIG.

A few of mine. All MIG.

you moved too fast on the bottom one, but in the ones above, youre welding nice and hot without undercut

i better stfu and post some pics while talking shit

Here's a pic from when I welded my beadlocks.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=349335&d=1201356560

lame...ALL THESE WELDS IN THE FLAT POSITION...arent there any REAL welders in here??:flipoff2:



2" SCH 80 j-prep closed root 5g

6" SCH80 open root 6g



What, that doesnt count?

Here's a pic from when I welded my beadlocks.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=349335&d=1201356560

I thought you just made soup:confused:

Heres two examples of mine. 1st was done with a 255XT Lincoln Mig and the 2nd was with my trusty Lincoln AC225 set at 160amps using 7014 rods.

http://i47.tinypic.com/2zyx16d.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/4k7g5h.jpg

thats some darn nice fab work, but theres a downhand weld on a 3/8'' thick caliper bracket here...nickle and dimeing you there, but thats a less than ideal technique for such a thick piece of metal...

I'm kinda new to welding, could you explain this? I'm not sure what downhand is and why you wouldn't do it to the bracket, what would be the ideal technique? Btw nice look'n welds guys keep them coming they are giving me some inspiration. I recently bought a welder so i'm trying to learn as much as I can.

lame...ALL THESE WELDS IN THE FLAT POSITION...arent there any REAL welders in here??:flipoff2:

how bout meow?

moars?

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1345/Welding/GTAWbmw540I4.jpg

how bout meow?

BAM~! got me beat, i havent done any 5 or 6 G in over 6 years...

BAM~! got me beat, i havent done any 5 or 6 G in over 6 years...

word ... all of my 6G is GTAW root, with either GTAW fill, SMAW fill, or FCAW fill ...

the yellow pipe is 28" diameter (or so called 'sissy-pipe') ... i only welded the vertical (15* below vertical to make it interesting) and flats on it, then rotated it because of the beam we used to keep it straight ...

5/32 7018 all the way out, 3/4" wall, 37.5* bevel .... last pass was about 2.25" wide :rolleyes: idiots were supposed to bevel it on 45* but got confused with all the numbers floating around.

BAM~! got me beat, i havent done any 5 or 6 G in over 6 years...

we will see how the Xray reads tomorrow before i gloat :o

You've got the right guy although sometimes I wonder if I made the right choice (not really but LONG days of studying and threads like these make me miss days in the shop ALOT). I bought a diversion 165 TIG last year and have a couple fab tools here in my rental house's garage to keep me sane and blow off the steam on the weekends.

That's why I went into finance, Grand pops was a surgeon and it sucked for my dad. although I did do my mcat twice and then chickened out.

word ... all of my 6G is GTAW root, with either GTAW fill, SMAW fill, or FCAW fill ...

the yellow pipe is 28" diameter (or so called 'sissy-pipe') ... i only welded the vertical (15* below vertical to make it interesting) and flats on it, then rotated it because of the beam we used to keep it straight ...

5/32 7018 all the way out, 3/4" wall, 37.5* bevel .... last pass was about 2.25" wide :rolleyes: idiots were supposed to bevel it on 45* but got confused with all the numbers floating around.

Odd. 37.5* bevels are all we use. why go to 45* other than to use more wire?

lame...ALL THESE WELDS IN THE FLAT POSITION...arent there any REAL welders in here??:flipoff2:



When I worked in a shop welding, pretty sure my boss would kick my ass if I pulled out my phone or camera and started taking pictures :flipoff2:

I'm kinda new to welding, could you explain this? I'm not sure what downhand is and why you wouldn't do it to the bracket, what would be the ideal technique? Btw nice look'n welds guys keep them coming they are giving me some inspiration. I recently bought a welder so i'm trying to learn as much as I can.

Standard protocall for welding a vertical is to do it uphill. It allows better penetration.

If you know what your doing you can run a sufficent downhill pass. I had to get certified for it because i got caught by a new (young and cocky) inspector fiilling up some gaps. He said the only way i wouldnt have to grind it all out and re do it is if i get certified for it.

I came back that following monday with vertical downhand 1/2" welding certs. :grinpimp:



Im a structual welder (232, 311ni, 5/64 211, 7018) Im still kinda new to the fancy gas welding (tig,mig) but hopefully this overhead tig looks good enough. :flipoff2:

you should buy that inspector a six pack, all the inspectors i've ever delt with in the San Fran area would have made you grind it out if you were'nt certified at the time of the weld.

you should buy that inspector a six pack, all the inspectors i've ever delt with in the San Fran area would have made you grind it out if you were'nt certified at the time of the weld.

Yeah the Sac area inspectors are way laid back compared to the bay area ones iv dealt with. Its always a crap shoot on inspectors though. Most our jobsites are inspected by Kleinfielder. A lot of laid back guys work there. :D

To be honest ill put anything i possibly can to fill up a large gap. Rebar, thick angle iron, flatbar. Obviously wont do that on somthing thats critical but time is money to the company and as long as you dont get caught they are all for it.

I hate to hijack my own thread but i had to post up these pics since we are talking about stuffing gaps and inspectors.

This was a small job we did at chico state.

The situation was that we had to have enough weld to hold the pieces up while we cut the crane loose but couldnt weld them out because we still had to rack (level, and straighten) all of it.

The top horizontal piece with the 45degree kicker was 24"x12x1/2" x 45'long and the only thing holding it up was a single pass 12" fillit 232 weld. My weld to be exact. I have never been more stressed out in my life. :laughing:

We held the floating edge with the lift and when we cut the crane loose (very very slowly) the lift dropped over 3 feet.

We immediatly flew in the 45 degree kicker and i tacked it to the column than held it with my lift while the crane cut it loose to rig the horizontal piece back up.

That was a lot of work for only 2 guys in the air.

.......... My weld to be exact. I have never been more stressed out in my life. :laughing:


:laughing: I used to worry about welding lift lugs on stuff in the shop but now its nothing. You come to learn how much weld is needed for certain stuff. Just enough to hold it, but not enough to ruin it if it needs to come off.

I can make pretty welds...........no really..........just ask anyone.......camera is too scared :laughing:

And NO I didnt know about the "close up" feature. Guess I have to mess with my camera some more.

Here's my pretty weld for today, almost in focus :laughing:

Odd. 37.5* bevels are all we use. why go to 45* other than to use more wire?

because thats what the Foreman / Welding engineer / Customer told them to do.

we dont get paid to argue, we get paid to do what our bosses tell us to do.

When I worked in a shop welding, pretty sure my boss would kick my ass if I pulled out my phone or camera and started taking pictures :flipoff2:

gotta be sneaky :flipoff2:

we will see how the Xray reads tomorrow before i gloat :o

commence gloating.

Ok. I found the "flower" thing on my camera and HOLY CRAP it does work close up.........but I left it at home today so no pictures :laughing:


EDIT:
Brought it to work, pushed the flower button to "macro" mode and it still wouldnt focus worth a damn. :mad:

Here's my pretty weld for today, almost in focus :laughing:

Pizimp :grinpimp: Dallas, I bet you make sweet love to your Torchmate table every night. :flipoff2:

I thought you just made soup:confused:

:laughing:

Jack of all trades, master of none.

Ok, out of all the pictures I took. This is only one that came up somewhat clear.

How bout some technique tips to go with the pretty pictures? Even basic descriptions would help those of us with some clue but not thousands and thousands of hours doing it.

For example and this is overly basic but just to show how simple..."floor pedal, hold, see puddle/beachball...start to walk cup by..."

I'd like to learn how to walk the cup and some other techniques.

How bout some technique tips to go with the pretty pictures? Even basic descriptions would help those of us with some clue but not thousands and thousands of hours doing it.

For example and this is overly basic but just to show how simple..."floor pedal, hold, see puddle/beachball...start to walk cup by..."

I'd like to learn how to walk the cup and some other techniques.

Walking the cup is something you have to watch and learn. Someone could draw a diagram and you would get the jist of it but it wouldnt do it justice. It is something that definitly takes a lot of practice. AND everyone has a little bit of a different tecnique. Hell I have different ones for doing Carbon steel and stainless and others for the other non ferrous stuff I deal with too. Depending on diameter of pipe or size of the weld I do it differently too. Im REALLY bad at trying to explain/teach things so I will leave it to someone else.
I just checked youtube and non of the videos I saw were from the INSIDE of a welding lens. I dont have time to try it at work this week but I will next week if no one else can.

you moved too fast on the bottom one, but in the ones above, youre welding nice and hot without undercut

i better stfu and post some pics while talking shit


Your right, but for what it is there just fine. It's the tool tray welded to the parts washer I made. See the cell phone sitting in it and the hammer and right angle grinder in it before powder coat. Its more then big enough for a 1 ton axle. Leak check, no leaks the first try. :flipoff2:

Your right, but for what it is there just fine. It's the tool tray welded to the parts washer I made. See the cell phone sitting in it and the hammer and right angle grinder in it before powder coat. Its more then big enough for a 1 ton axle. Leak check, no leaks the first try. :flipoff2:

Cool project if you have the space for it, that thing could be useful!

Cool project if you have the space for it, that thing could be useful!


My thread on it.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739597&highlight=

6061 Aluminum 3/16" Done with an old Miller 320 A /BSP

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz321/stuck720/DSC_0010.jpg

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz321/stuck720/DSC_0001.jpg

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz321/stuck720/P9060059.jpg

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/lowres_6-1-09%20012.jpg
ER71T-11 in the horizontal position.



http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Welds/mm1752.jpg
ER70S-6 & C25. My attempt at a "Pirate Purdy" Mig weld.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/mcreynoldsair/SSPX0101.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/mcreynoldsair/DSCN1469.jpg

Top photo is a dash?

Top photo is a WELDED dash?

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/4linkandtraxxuslosi021.jpg

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/4linkandtraxxuslosi021.jpg

pimp!

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/4linkandtraxxuslosi021.jpg

It would be a shame to paint that with anything other than clear.

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/0118092000a.jpg ya clear coat was the plan so the pressure was on to pull off a good looking weld.http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/misslerodweld.jpg

Hoff,

What are you using to prep your tubing prior to weld? Belt sander?

Good call! Yes i use a belt sander and finish it with emery cloth.

I'll play Nuke cert stuff. shitty camera

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61596&stc=1&d=1051248550

Did this on a Rotary

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61597&stc=1&d=1051248625

This is 9010 stick void percentage test.

Mac

Here's mine

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs274.snc1/10135_1122167900868_1427206039_30312706_1925357_n. jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs274.snc1/10135_1122167820866_1427206039_30312705_1293344_n. jpg

I'll play Nuke cert stuff. shitty camera

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61596&stc=1&d=1051248550

Did this on a Rotary

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61597&stc=1&d=1051248625

This is 9010 stick void percentage test.

Mac

Now thats some good lookin work, what did you run the first one with? hard to tell.

Here's mine

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs274.snc1/10135_1122167900868_1427206039_30312706_1925357_n. jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs274.snc1/10135_1122167820866_1427206039_30312705_1293344_n. jpg



Looks like tac tac tac method, correct?

Yes, I think it is better looking then regular MIG. Of course it is easier for someone to screw up by not fully penetrating the metal. Haven't had any of my trigger welds fail though. Those pics I had on my computer aren't the prettiest.

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/Mobile%20Uploads/1212091523a.jpg And tig welded the shock tabs with a miller dynasty

I'll play Nuke cert stuff. shitty camera

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61596&stc=1&d=1051248550

Did this on a Rotary

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61597&stc=1&d=1051248625

This is 9010 stick void percentage test.

Mac




please tell me that is 2'' tig,,, if so,,,, you are my hero

please tell me that is 2'' tig,,, if so,,,, you are my hero


Its just mild steel rod 70S2......yes you are correct it's tig. The coupon below was 9010 stick rod with the ends cut off obviously.

.

no im saying is that 2'' pipe?

The rotary tig weld is unreal!!! Freaking amazing!!! How did you add the filler rod in without no signs of adding any? Did you run the tig over the first pass to smooth out the weld surface? Or is it the picture that we can't see it that good?

Yes, I think it is better looking then regular MIG. Of course it is easier for someone to screw up by not fully penetrating the metal. Haven't had any of my trigger welds fail though. Those pics I had on my computer aren't the prettiest.

who gives a rat's ass if its prettier if its weaker?

no im saying is that 2'' pipe?

YES sorry wasn't paying attention to what I was reading.

Mac

The rotary tig weld is unreal!!! Freaking amazing!!! How did you add the filler rod in without no signs of adding any? Did you run the tig over the first pass to smooth out the weld surface? Or is it the picture that we can't see it that good?


No smooth over just a steady hand

The rotary tig weld is unreal!!! Freaking amazing!!! How did you add the filler rod in without no signs of adding any? Did you run the tig over the first pass to smooth out the weld surface? Or is it the picture that we can't see it that good?

its a automated welder it is all done by computer, all you do is clamp it on

who gives a rat's ass if its prettier if its weaker?



Agreed, it is weaker too. He may not have had any welds fail but they just may not have seen any load yet either, or enough. If you learn how to MIG right you can make it look like a good TIG weld WITH GREAT penetration. TAC TAC TAC method if for welding sheet metal ONLY.

its a automated welder it is all done by computer, all you do is clamp it on

Not the same as what is done here :shaking:

Here's mine

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs274.snc1/10135_1122167900868_1427206039_30312706_1925357_n. jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs274.snc1/10135_1122167820866_1427206039_30312705_1293344_n. jpg

My equivalent post response to yours:

:laughing:
zzz
:laughing:
zzz
:laughing:
zzz
:laughing:
zzz
:laughing:
zzz
:laughing:

Not the same as what is done here :shaking:

right on, so then i take it it was roll welded and not done in position

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/mcreynoldsair/101_0486.jpg

Rotary=Rotary positioner/turn table.

AND
Tack tack tack has no place in this thread :rolleyes:

Rotary=Rotary positioner/turn table.

AND
Tack tack tack has no place in this thread :rolleyes:


No BS tack tack comments!!!! Just let people post up pics of their welds. Even if its not up to YOUR standards.


:shaking:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/mcreynoldsair/101_0484.jpg

Very nice alumium welding what Gas are you running?

I know it's not a pretty weld but I'm looking for some constructive criticism. I am welding 1/8" to 3/8" steel.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs076.snc3/14340_382390900594_668440594_10287129_1645005_n.jp g

:shaking:

:p:flipoff2:

does mine count?

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu105/nwstindy/T4r/_IMG0116.jpg

Hell ya they count! Lets see one of those tubes all welded up!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r285/willyp87/robs%20jeep/Picture252.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r285/willyp87/robs%20jeep/Picture040.jpg

I know it's not a pretty weld but I'm looking for some constructive criticism. I am welding 1/8" to 3/8" steel.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs076.snc3/14340_382390900594_668440594_10287129_1645005_n.jp g



When you weld thick to thin with a fillet weld with a wire feed, you want consintrate the puddle more on the thick material with the gun at an angle but dab or dip into the thiner material. So keep your gun lower, more pointed at the thick material, ever if your at a good 45 deg angle. If you put equal amounts of weld into both pieces of material you can blow out the thinner stuff easily as it get hot, like with a straight drag weld. I prefer a curly cue pattern, or overlapping circles. Roll your gun up when making small circles so you flow wire on the thinner material. Should have a nice radiused weld.

I know it's not a pretty weld but I'm looking for some constructive criticism. I am welding 1/8" to 3/8" steel.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs076.snc3/14340_382390900594_668440594_10287129_1645005_n.jp g


Welding. You can do it the easy way, Or you can try it the hard way.
Small steps make all the differernce.


Well... Some pointers..
1.Your metal IS NOT. clean enough for mig..... i know i know i know.
IMO, For mig, The Metal Must be AS CLEAN, as for tig. That means, use a flap disk, and some sort of cleaner (not getting into the cleaner convo).. When the wire touches that dirty basemetal, it hesitates for .00000000001 seconds to re-establish the arc....

2) make your motions Wider,
(further apart laterally.)




3) keep stickout tight, (about 3/8) of an inch.
This is a lot tighter that it seems when you have your hood down.

4), for thicker sections. i would lay three beads on that, one like you have, then one centered along the bottom toe and one on the top. overlapping eachother by half.

5) for short circuit mig, you kinda limited to ma of 3/8'' standard t-joint, it just doesnt have the needed penetration, i would suggest going to Mig with a spray transfer

more of HOFFs' work, my upper control arm....

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o230/DJ404564X4/FRONT%2060/ATT00059.jpg


my 14 bolt, Poly Performance truss

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o230/DJ404564X4/14%20BOLT/14bolt-1.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o230/DJ404564X4/14%20BOLT/parts015-1.jpg

When you weld thick to thin with a fillet weld with a wire feed, you want consintrate the puddle more on the thick material with the gun at an angle but dab or dip into the thiner material. So keep your gun lower, more pointed at the thick material, ever if your at a good 45 deg angle. If you put equal amounts of weld into both pieces of material you can blow out the thinner stuff easily as it get hot, like with a straight drag weld. I prefer a curly cue pattern, or overlapping circles. Roll your gun up when making small circles so you flow wire on the thinner material. Should have a nice radiused weld.

Thanks, I still have a few more to do so I will try this just to clarify. I should have the majority of the puddle on the thick metal and dab it over to the thinner metal. I have been using a figure 8 pattern however I think the loops on my 8 have been rather liniar and they need to be fatter loops.

Welding. You can do it the easy way, Or you can try it the hard way.
Small steps make all the differernce.


Well... Some pointers..
1.Your metal IS NOT. clean enough for mig..... i know i know i know.
IMO, For mig, The Metal Must be AS CLEAN, as for tig. That means, use a flap disk, and some sort of cleaner (not getting into the cleaner convo).. When the wire touches that dirty basemetal, it hesitates for .00000000001 seconds to re-establish the arc....

I used a flap disc on the ends of the metal and on the base metal but I didn't use a cleaner. where could I find a good cleaner.

2) make your motions Wider,
(further apart laterally.)

In my figure 8 pattern I should move further away from the puddle or i should spread the puddle out


3) keep stickout tight, (about 3/8) of an inch.
This is a lot tighter that it seems when you have your hood down.
Is this why the metal around my weld looks dirty when I'm done.

4), for thicker sections. i would lay three beads on that, one like you have, then one centered along the bottom toe and one on the top. overlapping eachother by half.

5) for short circuit mig, you kinda limited to ma of 3/8'' standard t-joint, it just doesnt have the needed penetration, i would suggest going to Mig with a spray transfer
Is there a way to convert a short circuit mig to spray transfer? I don't think I can put in the coin to buy a new welder. Would this also be why I can't get those perfect stacked nickles or do I just need more work?

Thanks for your help on this.

I used a flap disc on the ends of the metal and on the base metal but I didn't use a cleaner. where could I find a good cleaner.


You can use a chemical cleaner for MIG, but by no means is it required or will you see a difference in using one. (In most cases) Just clean off the bad stuff like rust paint and grease. You can weld right through mill scale, not the case with TIG.

Going from short circuit MIG to spray transfer simply requires a machine with enough power and a gas with minimum 80% argon, though 90/10 or 95/5 mixes are more common. Your also going to be around a minimum of 24-26 volts before you start to see a good axial spray.

Dont get to hung up on figure 8 patterns or makes a stack of dimes look. Be able to run good consistent stringers first, then if you feel the need to start working on small motions. But dont start making huge circles and making the weld larger than it has to be, this could end up making it weaker.

I know its an ugly weld but is my 1st tig attempt and i did it with this home made TIG welder, I have since added a choke or (arc stabilizer) and also a wire feeder for a mig setup
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/5379/weld1.jpg (http://img686.imageshack.us/i/weld1.jpg/)
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/5836/pc290002.jpg (http://img689.imageshack.us/i/pc290002.jpg/)


http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/1848/weld2.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/i/weld2.jpg/)

You can use a chemical cleaner for MIG, but by no means is it required or will you see a difference in using one. (In most cases) Just clean off the bad stuff like rust paint and grease. You can weld right through mill scale, not the case with TIG.

Going from short circuit MIG to spray transfer simply requires a machine with enough power and a gas with minimum 80% argon, though 90/10 or 95/5 mixes are more common. Your also going to be around a minimum of 24-26 volts before you start to see a good axial spray.

Dont get to hung up on figure 8 patterns or makes a stack of dimes look. Be able to run good consistent stringers first, then if you feel the need to start working on small motions. But dont start making huge circles and making the weld larger than it has to be, this could end up making it weaker.



Deffenitaly dont use a figure 8 motion by any means, this will in doubt result in lots of cold lap...

here is a little cheater i stole out of my hobart book.

hope this will help,,,, the key is to always keep the wire in the front 1/3rd of the puddle

i also make mine in almost a cursive e motion.. either way, pause breifly at the to and when you go down, do it quickly..... when you go up. have the wire contactiing the base metal, across the front of the puddle

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92/hondafreak08/weldmig.jpg

Deffenitaly dont use a figure 8 motion by any means, this will in doubt result in lots of cold lap...

here is a little cheater i stole out of my hobart book.

hope this will help,,,, the key is to always keep the wire in the front 1/3rd of the puddle

i also make mine in almost a cursive e motion.. either way, pause breifly at the to and when you go down, do it quickly..... when you go up. have the wire contactiing the base metal, across the front of the puddle

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92/hondafreak08/weldmig.jpg




This is what I said, not figure 8. This is a curly cue motion or overlapping circles. The weld puddle will overlap the previous puddle.

Here's what I changed.
I went from a figrue 8 to overlapping circles curly cue.

I made my motions in the puddle larger and did not come out of the puddle

I also adjusted moved my contact tip forward in the nozzle so that I could get a better stick out.

I also dabbed the puddle over to the thinner metal from the thicker metal.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs172.snc3/19975_392853000594_668440594_10357895_4193263_n.jp g

Thats Night and Day right there!
Looks good

Here's what I changed.
I went from a figrue 8 to overlapping circles curly cue.

I made my motions in the puddle larger and did not come out of the puddle

I also adjusted moved my contact tip forward in the nozzle so that I could get a better stick out.

I also dabbed the puddle over to the thinner metal from the thicker metal.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs172.snc3/19975_392853000594_668440594_10357895_4193263_n.jp g

Looks a lot cleaner, looks a lot more uniform,,, hope i helped.. I wouldnt really suggest getting a machine for spray unless yours can already handle it, (you will probably need 3 phase)./.. Now when you progress foward on the forward up motion, have the wire contacting the base metal, but just barely outside the metal., and when you come back down have it in the front 3rd of the puddle (this will cure the cold lap problem people see)

Ps. Anyone who says a stack of dimes mig weld is chit. Im going to say that your wrong,,, sorry... Passed a quite a few bend tests using it, as well as a 2g pipe test that passed bend,,, its the technique when laying it that will screw you

Ps. Anyone who says a stack of dimes mig weld is chit. Im going to say that your wrong,,, sorry... Passed a quite a few bend tests using it, as well as a 2g pipe test that passed bend,,, its the technique when laying it that will screw you



I have and do dispute this to a certain degree. It depends entirely on the overlap of the "dime" diameter. I have seen dime mothods done where the overlap was 1/3 or less the diameter of the dime diameter. This creates a failure point. The section width in that area is about 50% narrower then the actual width of the dime diameter which creates a stress point and weak spots all along the weld. Where it fails has to do with many factors like structural design, material thickness, weld penatration among others.

A dime method where the overlap in atleast 3/4 or better creates almost a straight line at the weld edge. Not scallops like a method where the overlap is spred too far apart. It's just simple physics and common sence period. Just because your welds didn't fail does not make what you said a true statement. You must have eaither done it right by having plenty of overlap and good penatration or you had a sufficient amount of overlap not to fail by luck. Every body says "Dime is awesome or the best" without getting into the details of the method itself. Remember, if you spread your "dime" too far it's just an individual tack, right? Make sence? I LOVE the dime method WHEN it's done right. Not to mention the height of the dime weld too. The section width in that view is also scalloped. You get peeks and vallys. A tight overlap creates almost no vallys, hence a stronger weld.

Here's what I changed.
I went from a figrue 8 to overlapping circles curly cue.

I made my motions in the puddle larger and did not come out of the puddle

I also adjusted moved my contact tip forward in the nozzle so that I could get a better stick out.

I also dabbed the puddle over to the thinner metal from the thicker metal.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs172.snc3/19975_392853000594_668440594_10357895_4193263_n.jp g



Ahh, I see you took some of my advice. Great job, looks WAYYYY better. Your welcome. :D Good for you for listening and learning without getting bent from constructive criticism. I'm stoked for ya man! Anytime you have any questions regarding fabrication, machining, or welding and you think you might get flammed here you are welcome to PM me if ya want to. I'm always happy to help someone willing to listen and learn.

As much as I love to read(not get involved with) the debate about stack of dimes. Lets keep THIS thread about pictures!!

And BTW, try doing the tack shit with an AWS welding inspector around and see how long it takes him to kick you out laughing at you ;)

And BTW, try doing the tack shit with an AWS welding inspector around and see how long it takes him to kick you out laughing at you ;)




Let's not start that tack tack shit again. ;)







:flipoff2:



edit: I still can't get a weld pic to turn out worth a shit, tried everything, macro, different light, etc. Usually end up with too much reflection so you can't see anything. Guess I'm not a cameraman. Oh well.

Let's not start that tack tack shit again. ;)







:flipoff2:



edit: I still can't get a weld pic to turn out worth a shit, tried everything, macro, different light, etc. Usually end up with too much reflection so you can't see anything. Guess I'm not a cameraman. Oh well.

turn your flash off..

I have and do dispute this to a certain degree. It depends entirely on the overlap of the "dime" diameter. I have seen dime mothods done where the overlap was 1/3 or less the diameter of the dime diameter. This creates a failure point. The section width in that area is about 50% narrower then the actual width of the dime diameter which creates a stress point and weak spots all along the weld. Where it fails has to do with many factors like structural design, material thickness, weld penatration among others.

A dime method where the overlap in atleast 3/4 or better creates almost a straight line at the weld edge. Not scallops like a method where the overlap is spred too far apart. It's just simple physics and common sence period. Just because your welds didn't fail does not make what you said a true statement. You must have eaither done it right by having plenty of overlap and good penatration or you had a sufficient amount of overlap not to fail by luck. Every body says "Dime is awesome or the best" without getting into the details of the method itself. Remember, if you spread your "dime" too far it's just an individual tack, right? Make sence? I LOVE the dime method WHEN it's done right. Not to mention the height of the dime weld too. The section width in that view is also scalloped. You get peeks and vallys. A tight overlap creates almost no vallys, hence a stronger weld.



i agree with you 100%, what im arguing is the people who say if its gotta ripple its weak...... to much overlap, though,. causes u to come to far back into the puddle, the weld doesnt fuse into the basemetal, its merely burning into the existing weld, causing cold lap, to far ahead, and its like you said. basically a tack, best is to the the dimes overlapping 50%

Trying out my 'new to me' positioner. Literally the first three aluminum welds on this thing and I love it.

Other aluminum is me just playing around. (Yea, I see the craters :flipoff2: )

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_4264.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_4265.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/IMG_4266.jpg

i agree with you 100%, what im arguing is the people who say if its gotta ripple its weak...... to much overlap, though,. causes u to come to far back into the puddle, the weld doesnt fuse into the basemetal, its merely burning into the existing weld, causing cold lap, to far ahead, and its like you said. basically a tack, best is to the the dimes overlapping 50%



Check out the link below and the welding pics, along with lots of the welding pics in this thread the overlap is more then 50% and absolutely not colp lap welds. 50% SHOULD be minimum. The IDEAL in my openion TIG weld is the pic in post #2 of this thread. Don't get any better then that. That weld is as near a constant filler rod feed into the weld pool as possible. Not dap move dap move dap move.. dime method. Almost looks like a machined radius. If any part, wether machine with a ripple (high and low spots) or welded with a ripple, inherently the "thin" area will be the weak spot.

http://www.desertrides.com/features/vehicles/gordonTT/index.php

Check out the link below and the welding pics, along with lots of the welding pics in this thread the overlap is more then 50% and absolutely not colp lap welds. 50% SHOULD be minimum. The IDEAL in my openion TIG weld is the pic in post #2 of this thread. Don't get any better then that. That weld is as near a constant filler rod feed into the weld pool as possible. Not dap move dap move dap move.. dime method. Almost looks like a machined radius. If any part, wether machine with a ripple (high and low spots) or welded with a ripple, inherently the "thin" area will be the weak spot.

http://www.desertrides.com/features/vehicles/gordonTT/index.php

You try dippin at a nuke and see how long you last:laughing: I know most guys think that cup walking is not a suitable structural welding technique but I will argue that till I am blue in the face. I believe its one of the best ways to use the filler material to its full intent. Thus you have almost no high low voids.

Mac

You try dippin at a nuke and see how long you last:laughing: I know most guys think that cup walking is not a suitable structural welding technique but I will argue that till I am blue in the face. I believe its one of the best ways to use the filler material to its full intent. Thus you have almost no high low voids.

Mac

Thats exactly how I do it

These are from ZTFab over on Weldingweb.com; this guy does some beautiful work.

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m231/zerotolerancefab/Mike%20Vs%20RHino/IMG_2411.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m231/zerotolerancefab/Mike%20Vs%20RHino/IMG_2425.jpg



Here's one of mine.

Check out the link below and the welding pics, along with lots of the welding pics in this thread the overlap is more then 50% and absolutely not colp lap welds. 50% SHOULD be minimum. The IDEAL in my openion TIG weld is the pic in post #2 of this thread. Don't get any better then that. That weld is as near a constant filler rod feed into the weld pool as possible. Not dap move dap move dap move.. dime method. Almost looks like a machined radius. If any part, wether machine with a ripple (high and low spots) or welded with a ripple, inherently the "thin" area will be the weak spot.

http://www.desertrides.com/features/vehicles/gordonTT/index.php



Agree again. but, i was refering to Mig, i do believe that tig should be tighter that mig....... and the lay wire / cup walking tec. is great on everything but t joints,, doesnt really want to get deep into the joint, and in mostn cases u can cut it in half and see a hole running down the vertex of the joint

I know its an ugly weld but is my 1st tig attempt and i did it with this home made TIG welder, I have since added a choke or (arc stabilizer) and also a wire feeder for a mig setup
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/5379/weld1.jpg (http://img686.imageshack.us/i/weld1.jpg/)
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/5836/pc290002.jpg (http://img689.imageshack.us/i/pc290002.jpg/)


http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/1848/weld2.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/i/weld2.jpg/)

How well does that mig setup work? Mig and tig operate differently, one is constant current, the other is constant voltage.

Agree again. but, i was refering to Mig, i do believe that tig should be tighter that mig....... and the lay wire / cup walking tec. is great on everything but t joints,, doesnt really want to get deep into the joint, and in mostn cases u can cut it in half and see a hole running down the vertex of the joint

Tell that to the inspector that bent my fillet weld. he's going to be pissed that he missed that hole. :homer:

Penetration has less to do with how you throwing the filler in than your torch angle and arc length, something that lots of people f-up when trying to walk out TIG joints

Agree again. but, i was refering to Mig, i do believe that tig should be tighter that mig....... and the lay wire / cup walking tec. is great on everything but t joints,, doesnt really want to get deep into the joint, and in mostn cases u can cut it in half and see a hole running down the vertex of the joint

Not exactly walking the cup but if you look at the picture I posted. Thats laying the wire and running the cup back and forth against the T joint.

A few welds from work 100% x-ray.

Your puddle control is incredible. :eek:

Here is a manifold I built for a subaru setup running a twinscroll 35r turbo. Running over 500whp on this setup. Beveled joints, 2 passes and backpurged.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x318/kmurphy187/Twinscroll%20t4%2035r%20build/IMG_4559.jpg

Kmurphy187, Do care to share how you backpurged that header? There have been times I wanted to do this, but have never had the know how :D

run 2 flow meters off your argon tank. one goes to the torch (obviously) the other, you plug up all ends of the header (on something this small) and fill the header with argon.. Cardboard and duct tape will work. then leave it flowing in.

run 2 flow meters off your argon tank. one goes to the torch (obviously) the other, you plug up all ends of the header (on something this small) and fill the header with argon.. Cardboard and duct tape will work. then leave it flowing in.

Just dont forget to leave a vent hole.

i generally use aluminum foil to mostly seal up the ends. generally on the gas end if im close to a joint i'll put some steel wool right after the hose to help spread the gas evely throughout basically like a gas lense on the tig torch. I also use a seperate bottle for my backpurge setup.

Not bad for a 17 year old huh?? I can weld like this but cant get a job...:shaking: Both welds are tig...stainless.

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/3766b6fe.jpg

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/3766b6fe.jpg






Not Breaking..............:)

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/3766b6fe.jpg


*newbie*
Needs filler, slow down, too hot?

I know it is one or two of those but not good enough to tell you which.

:laughing:

*newbie*

*newbie*
Needs filler, slow down, too hot?

I know it is one or two of those but not good enough to tell you which.



*newbie*

I'll try all three and see what happens. The face weld that looks undercut isn't. That's the third pass to fill the gap. It's just the camera angle. But I'll do better for you on the next weld.

I'll try all three and see what happens. The face weld that looks undercut isn't. That's the third pass to fill the gap. It's just the camera angle. But I'll do better for you on the next weld.

Ahh, I see.



*Moves back into the corner*

Ahh, I see.



*Moves back into the corner*

So i checked this thread to see if you have posted up any pics of your welds. I don't see any. How come? Or are you one to just criticize?:flipoff2:

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/9620c860.jpg

So i checked this thread to see if you have posted up any pics of your welds. I don't see any. How come? Or are you one to just criticize?:flipoff2:

:laughing:

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/5cf6d1f0.jpg

http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/5cf6d1f0.jpg

Give me some technique here - as well as some specs on the machine, amperage, tungsten info, filler rod type and so on.

I am very new at TIG welding and would love for my welds to look half this good. :smokin:

Give me some technique here - as well as some specs on the machine, amperage, tungsten info, filler rod type and so on.

I am very new at TIG welding and would love for my welds to look half this good. :smokin:

Welding Machine is a ThermalArc pro-wave 185TSW
I used a 1/8 tungsten tip with a gas lens
3/32 super missle weld filler rod
The amps set at 135 with no pulse
gas flow at 25
try to keep your tip as close it is big. 1/8 tip, 1/8 distance

Welding Machine is a ThermalArc pro-wave 185TSW
I used a 1/8 tungsten tip with a gas lens
3/32 super missle weld filler rod
The amps set at 135 with no pulse
gas flow at 25
try to keep your tip as close it is big. 1/8 tip, 1/8 distance

Was this also done with some sort of a rotary table?

I'll throw my $.10 in :) Not a welder by any means so here's the best I could come up with. Open to some criticism.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/BuckFever/StackedDimes.jpg

I think it could use some better spacing and perhaps a little hotter :flipoff2:

ok my vertical up ,mig .035 .375 cold roll fb
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo35/eigerrich/PC170041.jpg

I'll throw my $.10 in :) Not a welder by any means so here's the best I could come up with. Open to some criticism.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/BuckFever/StackedDimes.jpg

I think it could use some better spacing and perhaps a little hotter :flipoff2:

Ya got me, I laughed :laughing:

Yeah, I thought it was pretty good :) I think some people are still scratching their heads though. Kinda of like Pictionary :)

ok my vertical up ,mig .035 .375 cold roll fb
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo35/eigerrich/PC170041.jpg

very nice what gas are you using?

A few welds from work 100% x-ray.

Where do you work?

Looks like a flow sensor

I'll throw my $.10 in :) Not a welder by any means so here's the best I could come up with. Open to some criticism.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/BuckFever/StackedDimes.jpg

I think it could use some better spacing and perhaps a little hotter :flipoff2:

you need some torch control that bead is a little wavy lol

Amazed at some of your guys work :smokin: Ill start off by saying I'm a complete hobbiest and I'm trying to get better. Only welded up a few projects and I know I need some serious mentoring or a class at the community college or something, LOL :flipoff2: That being said... I'm not hardheaded and enjoy constructive/destructive critisism :D My two biggest problems (I probably have more than just 2 problems....) are porosity and this "etching"/ "undercutting" effect I'm getting at the boundary of my welds. Is this from poor prep/contamination? Hobart Ironman 210, .035 SureArc wire, Miller M-20 gun, Silvershield #8 gas. Flamesuit on! :p

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t82/FlexyTJ/DSCF8562.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t82/FlexyTJ/DSCF8567.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t82/FlexyTJ/DSCF8568.jpg

you need some torch control that bead is a little wavy lol

That's not the bead, the bead is the lettering on the dimes....I just made a lot of them :)

if you are just teaching yourself its not all that bad it could be ALOT worse. when you get undercut its normally one of two things the angle your holding the gun at or going to fast and from the looks of it i think your just holding your gun at the wrong angle.
and from all of the people i have talked to around where i live anyway community college welding classes arent so great mostly a teacher just saying go into the both and weld they dont really help you out that much my brother took one and he said he almost never saw his teacher.





Amazed at some of your guys work :smokin: Ill start off by saying I'm a complete hobbiest and I'm trying to get better. Only welded up a few projects and I know I need some serious mentoring or a class at the community college or something, LOL :flipoff2: That being said... I'm not hardheaded and enjoy constructive/destructive critisism :D My two biggest problems (I probably have more than just 2 problems....) are porosity and this "etching"/ "undercutting" effect I'm getting at the boundary of my welds. Is this from poor prep/contamination? Hobart Ironman 210, .035 SureArc wire, Miller M-20 gun, Silvershield #8 gas. Flamesuit on! :p

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t82/FlexyTJ/DSCF8562.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t82/FlexyTJ/DSCF8567.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t82/FlexyTJ/DSCF8568.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235239AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235229AmericaDenver2010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v418/KowboyKyle/SunFeb14235249AmericaDenver2010.jpg

knocked out some SS oil pans over the weekend, these things always come out beautiful.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0877.jpg

Same weld after wirebrush.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0878.jpg

Best pic I have of the whole thing together, bolted into the jig.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Welding/IMG_0871.jpg

I Just Tig welded this today....not to bad for a 17 year old. huh?? :D

Just out of curiosity, why would you put a metal handle on a mattock? Your hands are gonna be sore pretty quick.

Just out of curiosity, why would you put a metal handle on a mattock? Your hands are gonna be sore pretty quick.

Its a multi-tool for my 4x4. I have one handle that fits on that and a saw, shovel, axe, sledge hammer. So far I havent used it I will keep you updated when I use it. :D

Just out of curiosity, why would you put a metal handle on a mattock? Your hands are gonna be sore pretty quick.
Same logic as running studs for more traction on rocks? :flipoff2:

:d

this has got to be in here...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=873435&page=8

:grinpimp:

this has got to be in here...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=873435&page=8

:grinpimp:



Awesome.....simply awesome.

this has got to be in here...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=873435&page=8

:grinpimp:

This should be in a text book!

Some more positioner welds.

Some more positioner welds.

You should back off your amps and swirl that beast all the way up to make it look like a ice cream cone from Dairy Queen!! HAHA

Some more positioner welds.
Are those done on a rotary table? What process? That's pretty sweet!

this has got to be in here...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=873435&page=8

:grinpimp:



NOT DENYING THAT THERE IS A GREAT LEVEL OF SKILL THERE

but all he is doing is walking the cup of the tig torch along his weld.....\
is it amazing._yes
is it a good weld_ yes
is it hard to do_ no not really


in comparison of difficulty.,,, the weld on the stainless oil pan blows this out the water... a couple pages back the weld on the Nuke 2'' blows everything out the water

Are those done on a rotary table? What process? That's pretty sweet!


Yes, on a rotary table. Done with mig, miller 350p. Thank you.

The part in the last picture is being welded in this video.

YouTube - positioner welding.avi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_kwx05pqw)

What's getting sprayed on the metal first there?

My somewhat consistant looking welds.

http://imgur.com/fEtBU.jpg
http://imgur.com/LqyvO.jpg

Chad

What's getting sprayed on the metal first there?


Anti-spatter spray. Thats about the only job that I use it on. The stuff makes a sticky mess that is a pain in the ass to clean up when it starts to dry. The only thing I`ve found that will really clean it off of something is alcohol.

Ill play ....... little cold to start but turned out ok, Now I just wish I could make all the welds on my sami to look this good :rolleyes:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r189/kabob00/weld.jpg

NOT DENYING THAT THERE IS A GREAT LEVEL OF SKILL THERE

but all he is doing is walking the cup of the tig torch along his weld.....\
is it amazing._yes
is it a good weld_ yes
is it hard to do_ no not really


in comparison of difficulty.,,, the weld on the stainless oil pan blows this out the water... a couple pages back the weld on the Nuke 2'' blows everything out the water



Nah it was all free hand welded, not walking the cup

Yes, on a rotary table. Done with mig, miller 350p. Thank you.

The part in the last picture is being welded in this video.

YouTube - positioner welding.avi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_kwx05pqw)

Looks like you've made a couple of those, what are they?

Nah it was all free hand welded, not walking the cup

I've just yesterday tried to TIG for teh first time ever, .125 304 ss. I'll post pics tomorrow, it was marginally looking, but couldnt break with a hammer. Any details on walking the cup/ free hand?
/hijack

Looks like you've made a couple of those, what are they?


Honestly, I dont know exactly, Wish I did. Agriculture related. The print says they are an idler mount for some type of shaker table. :confused:

As for this, "Looks like you've made a couple of those", don't get me started (took this job to get away from doing production type welding). In the four years I have been at this place, we might have made maybe 1k of these a year. So far this year, I think we have done close to 2k already. :shaking: :mad3:

I've just yesterday tried to TIG for teh first time ever, .125 304 ss. I'll post pics tomorrow, it was marginally looking, but couldnt break with a hammer. Any details on walking the cup/ free hand?
/hijack

Walking the cup is essentially resting the lip of the cup on the work piece and "walking" it along the seam so as to steady your hand. It works, but I find it restrictive, and it trips me up when I'm in a situation where i can't walk it, so I've gotten away from doing it and freehand as much as possible. Free hand is more like mig welding in terms of how you manipulate the torch, hold it above the work piece so it's free to move around as required.


Some shock mounts I built last week. Still working on my consistency, need to get over trying to do too much at once, either running too long a bead and risking warpage, or trying to get too far around the tube and having 2-3 fucked up dips.


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/maxyedor/shockmounts002.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/maxyedor/shockmounts003.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/maxyedor/shockmounts001.jpg

I'll throw in a few to the flame. I'm no pro, and don't weld everyday.
http://www.nor-calrcrc.com/albums/album142/aan.sized.jpg
http://www.nor-calrcrc.com/albums/album142/aam.sized.jpg
http://www.nor-calrcrc.com/albums/daves_album/acd.sized.jpg

I'm guessing a positioner is some type of "work" rotator? We used them at flowmaster to seal in the end caps. works very well. Wish I had one for cages. That would be sick on continuous weld around each joint.

wow great welds guys...

If you know what you are doing, you can make free hand look like walking the cup. I can do a free hand pass and a walking pass and you wouldnt be able to tell me which one was what. Steady hands and not trying to do everything at once. Its TIG, you can stop and start whenever/where ever you want and start right back up there and it just blends in. Consistency is what you want to achieve. Get comfortable(I know, not always possible :laughing: )

Walk the cup in there:flipoff2:

blebla-bleblabue-jealous-blablebla.....

stfu... :D

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bumpplate1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bunaplates.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/chevbedcage5.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/chevupright1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/chevbumper.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/upright1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/upright2.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/upright4.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/upright5.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bunaplate1.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/100_5242.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/100_5505.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/100_5507.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/100_5509.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/100_5502.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/breen/breen11-1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/breen/breen6-1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/breen/breen4-1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/04%20F-1/100_5381.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/04%20F-1/100_5384.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/04%20F-1/100_5385.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/04%20F-1/100_5396.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/04%20F-1/100_5394.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/fiege/100_5173.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/fiege/100_5178.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/fiege/100_5179.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/fiege/100_5180.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/fiege/100_5141.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/fiege/100_5172.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/keith/100_5698.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/keith/100_5697.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/keith/100_5695.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/keith/100_5467.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/galles/IMG_8537.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/galles/IMG_8535.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/galles/IMG_8557.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/galles/IMG_8556.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/galles/100_1922.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/xlt%20ranger/100_5333.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/xlt%20ranger/100_5332.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/xlt%20ranger/100_5337.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/shred3.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld13.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld14.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld17.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld18.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld11.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld12.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld8.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld7.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld4.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld3.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/weld2.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage7.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage6.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage5.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage4.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage3.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage2.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bedcage1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/breen19.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/breen17.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/breen20.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/weld1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/weld2.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/weld5.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/weld7.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/upright3-1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/upright2-1.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/stage3-1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/bumpplate10.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega2.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega3.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega5.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega7.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega10.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega11.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega12.jpg

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega13.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega14.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega15.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega18.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega17.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/bms%20parts/mega16.jpg

Sick work from the guys at BMS! What pattern are you using to get the stacked look like that with the mig?

Sick work from the guys at BMS! What pattern are you using to get the stacked look like that with the mig?


As well as machine and settings....thats fawking sick!!!

some of those are nice welds, some look like you've been molesting your spot/stitch timers

But I figured that out from the first 30 pictures... :shaking:

I am just wondering how there is ZERO spatter...

proper cleaning/prep work does wonders!..... ta ta ta ... tig.....

there is no trigger or spot or stitch welding going on in any of the above photos......there is also no molested machine settings as i welded all those with a continuous trigger pull from a lincoln powernig 215. the machine has no pulsing capabilities. the look of my welds is achieved simply with gun movement and speed....or lack there off in most cases. low and slow....loop and swoop. :)

and yes clean materials and proper machine settings make for very little spatter.

thanks for the compliments guys.

:smokin:

Jayzus I wish I could weld a tenth that well.

lincoln powernig 215

Whats a powernig 215? :laughing:

those look :smokin:

I am just wondering how there is ZERO spatter...

Clean any oils or cutting fluid off the material, and get your wire-feed dialed in. Too slow will cause spatter, as will too fast.


A squirtgun weld from today
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/maxyedor/_V8B3494.jpg

Whats a powernig 215? :laughing:

those look :smokin:



here ya go. :grinpimp:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/project%20F-1/100_5448.jpg

Geez Matt, they said post some of your welds, not all of last years. Nice welds for sure. How do you make them so consistant? They look like stitch welds but it's hard to tell.

the 100% x-ray nuke weld is the shit.

1st pic: 5th week into my first semester of basic welding... stop/start 7018....

not quite tig or mig clean but i'm proud of it...


next two: my first ever test plate I did for the final in basic welding. I failed both but atleast it didn't bust completely in half like 3/4s of the class :flipoff2:


I'd like to see you fuckers posting up these sweet looking welds post pictures after some destructive testing :flipoff2:

finally remembered the camera. a few shots of a shipping stand for a statue we are working on

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1089.jpg

free hand weave not my best but its a shipping stand so who cares

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1088.jpg

and a few i just made messing around this afternoon

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1103.jpg

left is freehand, right is cup walking

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1099.jpg

304 SS

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1107.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1125.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1126.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1119.jpg

same after the wire wheel

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1129.jpg

some 5P i did this morning on an old tender cart undercarriage beam that was built in 1902

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/ryanroo/work/100_1127.jpg

I'd like to see you fuckers posting up these sweet looking welds post pictures after some destructive testing :flipoff2:

i dont intentionally destroy my welds. the CWI tested my welds to inspect them when i got my certs to do my job. after that i see no need to take apart the work i do to prove anything

ryan

hundreds of customers over the years as well as myself on my own trucks have tried to destroy my welds........none have succeded. :homer: im not too worried at this point. :mr-t:

Wow theres some pure weld sexyness in this thread. :smokin:

Going to bring the camera to the shop tomorrow and take some pretty weld pics!

This thread SUCK :p you guys really know how to make somebody feal bad about there welding. HAHAHAHA

Ryanroo, what are the specs on your torch, what size tungsten, what rod, what cup are you using - are you using a gas lens? Just trying to learn this stuff and your help is appreciated!

Ryanroo, what are the specs on your torch, what size tungsten, what rod, what cup are you using - are you using a gas lens? Just trying to learn this stuff and your help is appreciated!

i forget what the torch is without looking at it. weldmark something or other. 3/32 2% thoriated tungsten. er70s-2 rod on the black, 308L rod on the 304ss. i forget what cup i had on for those. to be honest, i cant even give you a number without looking in the book. i just use whatever works best for me. no gas lense. i remove them under most circumstances. machine is a syncrowave 250.

I know it's a simple t fillet weld but I just got this wire from ESAB and wanted to practice with it before welding on the job. I like it for flux core wire. Really clean with no spatter. http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae354/gearmind/59781c8e.jpg