Since the initial build of my Formula Four I've been more than pleased with it's ability on the rocks. I can pretty much go on any trail that the rest of my club is running. Now I want to be able to go faster across the desert. I'm about in the top third of the group when we're racing back to camp but I want to still go faster. I'm now looking for advice on where I should start making improvements.
Also,
Do you think I should be posting in the desert racing section instead of the FToy section?

The basic specs of my buggy are:
118" Wheelbase
38" TSL's (possibly 39.5" Iroks next year)
14" Fox 2.0 Remote reservoir shocks in the front. (Static at 7" shaft showing)
14" BBCS in the rear. (Static at 5" shaft showing)
Last time I weighed it I was about 3260lbs with me in it.
-D Side front, 910lbs
-P Side front, 830lbs
-1740lbs in the front
-D Side rear, 780lbs
-P Side rear, 740lbs
-1520lbs in the rear
I'm sure I'm about 100lbs heavier in the rear now.
22R on propane
Stock tranny
Dual cases with 4.7's in the rear case
4.10 gear (4.88's waiting to go in around March)
Leaf springs at all four corners (29.25" apart)

What should I be doing to make it faster in the desert? (Other than making major drive train changes.) I want to get rid of the BBCS shocks and go with some more Fox 2.0 Rem Res in the rear. I know I need to start playing with the valving in the front to keep me from bottoming out. I have no idea what the rear is doing. I have about 3.5" of up travel at all four corners. I'm not sure what I have in down travel. I'm willing to change my shock mouning locations if I have to.

Let me know what other specs and pictures I need to provide so I can feed the need for speed. Keep in mind I'm low budget, I have all the basic tools, a bender, notcher, and welder.

How it sits now.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3329.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3330.jpg

Thanks

How's the 22r on 'pane doing? Is it holding you back at all? Worth a swap to 5vz or 3rz?

The 4.88's will absolutely help quickness.

The 22R's fine. It takes a little time to get up to speed but I always have to slow down for the whoops and hard hits. I was planning on getting the suspension to handle the power I have now. Eventually I'll rebuild my tired 22R and turbo it. I like the 22R because it's so lite and reliable.

I'm pretty sure up travel is one thing you want lots of. I think I remember Hobie saying that was a big deal. Air bumps might be a good investment but I think your on track with shock quality and tuning.

I have been thinking the same thing, I planned to start off with shocks I can tune in and air bumps, when I am going to do it is another story.:(

I'm pretty sure up travel is one thing you want lots of. I think I remember Hobie saying that was a big deal. Air bumps might be a good investment but I think your on track with shock quality and tuning.

That's what D-Toy said was the biggest help with the Marlin Crawler F-Toy. (up travel)

More up travel. If you've got 7" of shaft at static ride height, I'd be hoping for damn near 7" of vertical up and sacrifice some flex; of course you'll need good bumpstops for this to work. I have my leaf sprung cruiser set up this way and it's fairly quick. You will lose some crawling stability, but it will still get through the trails

I worked in Hobie's pit for KOH. I remember that he put higher lift springs for KOH. He wanted more overall travel so he could soak up the big hits. I don't think it will hurt my crawling if I had a little more lift. I don't see air bumps comming anytime soon ($$$). Hobie did end up ripping his rear shocks apart. The shafts broke right above the lower mounts. That reminds me that I need to put some limit straps too. I do use all 7" of up travel. I had to put bump stops to keep from bottoming out my shocks.

I'm valving my front shocks at 85 comp. and 50 reb. That's almost 180 deg from what they were before.

If you truely have 7" of up travel (which I doubt) that's good. When I say up travel, I mean straight up not flex.
With 7" of up travel it's all about shock valving. I would guess that you will have to take apart the shocks and tweak the valving 6 or 8 time before you get it right. FOA bypass shocks made this process a little easier for me.

Whici is it? You said 7" of shaft and 3.5" of up. Which is believable on a crawler. I had to limit my articulation travel to get 7" of up, no way around it with leaves

If you truely have 7" of up travel (which I doubt) that's good. When I say up travel, I mean straight up not flex.
With 7" of up travel it's all about shock valving. I would guess that you will have to take apart the shocks and tweak the valving 6 or 8 time before you get it right. FOA bypass shocks made this process a little easier for me.

I now understand the difference between up travel for flex and straight up travel. Thanks for pointing that out. I'm only getting about 3.5" of straight up travel.

I revalved my front shocks to (about) #80 compression and #50 rebound. The reason I say "about" is because I didn't have the exact size stack to make true stacks. Anyway, as soon as I pulled the buggy off the trailer I noticed that it far stiffer when I dropped the front end off of the trailer. (I don't use the ramps for the buggy.) I took it down some dirt roads then some trails. It handled far better through the whoops but on the bigger hits it still bottomed out. My rear end what kicking me up on some of the bigger hits. I'm just not sure how much I can do with the front end when I have no control over the rear end. The BBCS just aren't going to cut it. I'm going to keep playing with the valving in the front and make the best of it until I can afford some new rear shocks and some springs with a little more lift. Next time I'll have to make sure I get some video and take my GPS so I know how fast I'm going.

It is a fact that the more compression you put in the front suspension, the more weight is transfered to the rear suspension. You figured it out. Buy new rear shocks.

With the small amounts of up travel on most F-toys you have to run max compression and as little rebound as you can stand. This will make it handle the whoops better but kind of ruff on the trail. Also don't waist to much time tuning the fronts until you get new rears.

well, as the "master of faster", i guess i should pipe in :D (i have to revel in my crown cuz one day, i might not have the fast ftoy, esp consider i aint got no money)

you need to brake down your suspension and set the front up to make sure you have all that up travel that you think you have. let the springs go up as far as they can before you collide with the motor or radiator. also make sure your shackle angle isnt maxed out when the springs still have more compression room in them. make sense?

once you do that, then setup the shocks. naturally some bypass shocks would be the way to go. the bbcs and 5150's etc... just dont cut it for high speed on a ftoy in the woops.

for bump stops i took that big poly urathane stop that TG sells and drilled a couple holes in the side of it to give it some compression.

and find the compromise with the stiffest tallest spring you want to put on without being a monster truck.

as far as the motor, a 22r propane turbo motor will fully get it big time! i would love to have one but i want to stay class legal. my LC stage 2 kit with some porting and polishing did wonders on my motor.

and yes my shocks ripped off in the rear cuz i didnt do what i said above with the rear, my fault, not the springs or shocks. i will have it fixed for this year.

btw, your rear springs looks pretty flat. front isnt too bad..let me see if i can find a pic of mine after the race so we see how much up travel there is

here is a pic on sat after the race. the springs are well broke in at this point :laughing:

even though its on a slight hill so the front isnt quite fully loaded you can see that i have about double the up travel than what is currently on your ftoy and i am sure the rear is the same.

also, when you start going faster those springs are that much more active and so are the shocks and they tend to travel more, heat up more, and wear out faster

here is the rear. (with no bump stops) with brand new springs. they settled a bit, but not much more than what is shown here.

if you could take off your blocks and get some springs with some arch in them, that would help nicely with up travel in the rear.

which brand bypass shock do you all like for this?

I just got some FOA's, there a great bang for the buck.

Sheesh... all you guys talking about needing more up-travel, and here I am building mine trying to figure out how to get it lower :(

Sheesh... all you guys talking about needing more up-travel, and here I am building mine trying to figure out how to get it lower :(


You can have both. Its just a lot more work and if your trying to stay ftoy comp legal its pushing the rules.

here is a pic on sat after the race. the springs are well broke in at this point :laughing:

even though its on a slight hill so the front isnt quite fully loaded you can see that i have about double the up travel than what is currently on your ftoy and i am sure the rear is the same.

also, when you start going faster those springs are that much more active and so are the shocks and they tend to travel more, heat up more, and wear out faster

What front springs are you running ? are they trail gear I am building kinda of a ftoy knock off and wanting to make it faster also , I have the deavers from Poly and they seem almost to soft at speed

thanks

Sheesh... all you guys talking about needing more up-travel, and here I am building mine trying to figure out how to get it lower :(

I think lower(not to low though, thats what the winch is for) is better for crawling. But we might give the rcrock race a try:smokin:

Sheesh... all you guys talking about needing more up-travel, and here I am building mine trying to figure out how to get it lower :(

i have noticed for years on pirate that alot builds go with flat springs in order to get their COG lower and that they are very proud of it. i have found that it doesnt quite work that well. flat springs will unload in a hurry just in time for you to flop. flat springs mean little up travel which means a tire is always lifing and no traction and again, flop.

you should build your suspension the way it needs to be for what you intend it for, then build the rest of the truck. if you want lower COG, drop the motor, seat, steering wheel, fuel, etc...not sacrifice quality suspension for COG

What front springs are you running ? are they trail gear I am building kinda of a ftoy knock off and wanting to make it faster also , I have the deavers from Poly and they seem almost to soft at speed

thanks

yes the TG 5" pack

I think I understand all the information that's being put out here. I really appreciate this.

I understand that I have to get taller springs and better rear shocks so that I can go faster. I'm actually trying to mimic your set up Hobie. I know it worked for you and I see no need to try and reinvent the wheel. I'm also willing to give up some COG in order to go faster.

To further add to the myths on COG, Hobie's rig runs a narrow rear axle and sits higher even in crawling trim than most other Ftoys and I can tell you from personal experience that it works VERY well that way.:D Where most guys flat springs reach full stuff and start to lift or flop the rig, Hobie's just stuffs the wheel further.

What front springs are you running ? are they trail gear I am building kinda of a ftoy knock off and wanting to make it faster also , I have the deavers from Poly and they seem almost to soft at speed

thanks

Get better shocks, won't find a better spring than Deavers

Get better shocks, won't find a better spring than Deavers

I agree the springs are quility but there is little arch and the front of the rig well never be lighter than it is now

i was readin this post and holy shit, 29 palms? no way theres only meth heads and marines with f350 skyjacker lifts from rad wheels. not people with a badass buggy that fabricate there own shit.

badass rig man

if youve ever seen a white jeep comanche on base, 35,s, blue driver door, thats me

-Shomsky

i was readin this post and holy shit, 29 palms? no way theres only meth heads and marines with f350 skyjacker lifts from rad wheels. not people with a badass buggy that fabricate there own shit.

badass rig man

if youve ever seen a white jeep comanche on base, 35,s, blue driver door, thats me

-Shomsky

I've been converting some of my Marines to rock crawling lately. I take them to my test and tune area, Copper Mtn. There's a few "Hammers" quality trails and some long runs with whoops for me to play on.



Back to the Fast.
Will another set of Fox 2.0 Remote Res shocks be enough for the rear? A long run for me is racing back from Outerlimits.

I agree the springs are quility but there is little arch and the front of the rig well never be lighter than it is now

They are old springs, may be time to send them to deaver for some freshening or "spring" for a new pack. If you want you can try out my alcans and buy if you like. They'll move your axle forward 2" or so as well

2" fox shocks will be fine. Dever can re-arce and add more leafs to your pack.

Did some more work to the front end now. I put two more leafs in the front packs and added a spacer to the drivers side pack to make it sit level. I now have 5" of up travel before I hit the bump stops and 6" of up travel before I hit the crank pulley. I also put in some limiting straps to keep the shocks from ripping apart.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3356.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3353.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3355.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3358.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN3357.jpg

I pulled the front spring packs apart and did all my measuring to see what wasn't working. I found that my drivers side bump stop wasn't contacting the top of the spring plate where I wanted it. It was actually hitting the spring. I couldn't find any other problems while I was cycling the suspension. I actually have more travel in the shocks than I have in the springs. Next month I'm going to get some quality bump stops. The front end is a lot more stiff now. I think it's too stiff. This weekend I'm going out to Truck Haven Hills so I'll be able to flex out the suspension and race down the wash beds. In January I'll be able to start concentrating on the rear suspension.

Looks good, I am going to be ordering some FOA shocks for the front when I get home, then sooner or later get the FOA's for the rear too.

Then one day some air bumps.

I think lower(not to low though, thats what the winch is for) is better for crawling. But we might give the rcrock race a try:smokin:
Hey, what are you planning on doing about your stearing, my assist is way to slow. I am running a stock pump, not having problems with it, it just isnt very responsive.

your shackle angle is a little steep do you not think? that could be making it ride rough

Looks good, I am going to be ordering some FOA shocks for the front when I get home, then sooner or later get the FOA's for the rear too.

Then one day some air bumps.


I'm selling some new, never istalled 12" FOA resi's that come with a FOA warrantee for 30 days. I'm linking and going c/o's

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=839721

Hey, what are you planning on doing about your stearing, my assist is way to slow. I am running a stock pump, not having problems with it, it just isnt very responsive.

What bore ram? I would first try a higher volume pump and swap rams from there. I can catch my super blinging PSC system with a 1.75" ram. 1.5" may be all right, but I've only caught it a couple times, drifitng on mountain switchbacks.

What bore ram? I would first try a higher volume pump and swap rams from there. I can catch my super blinging PSC system with a 1.75" ram. 1.5" may be all right, but I've only caught it a couple times, drifitng on mountain switchbacks.
I will have to check it out. Some people sugest bypassing the assist alltogether any thoughts on that?

I'm selling some new, never istalled 12" FOA resi's that come with a FOA warrantee for 30 days. I'm linking and going c/o's

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=839721
What is the price shipped to 30523

I will have to check it out. Some people sugest bypassing the assist alltogether any thoughts on that?

For go fast, sure. I've thought about it myself.

What is the price shipped to 30523

$49.67, willing to split shipping. These are ready to go out tomorrow (too busy of a day for me today).

Sent u pm

your shackle angle is a little steep do you not think? that could be making it ride rough

I blame the rough ride on the rear suspension. I going to start working on it this month.

My ram hasn't really slowed me down. I have the Trail Gear set up on my buggy. I have more problems with traction than the ram being too slow.

Back from Afghanistan. Time to start building again. I just went out this weekend and this happened.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/J%20Valley%20Misc/DSCN4766.jpg

Trying to go fast and the wheel came off. I know I checked the lug nuts before I ever loaded it in the trailer.

I have two 4" Fox bumps that I'm going to stroke down to 2" and install them on the front.

These are going on the rear.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN4770.jpg

I'm going to link it with the shocks mounted one foot from the axle on a five foot link. Some what of a prerunner type rear suspension. Let's see what happens.

I weighed my buggy this weekend and used the roll over spread sheet on the Jeehaholics site to find my roll over angles. It weighs 3850 with me and my 14yo son in the front seats and my normal trail load. My COG is 56.8" behind the front axle (almost centered on my 119" wheelbase). My track width COG is 36.5" (on 73" of rear track width). But, the formula put's my COG at 25.8". That is at the bottom of my Toyota frame. Can that be right? The other calculations that were given were 54* before roll over on the sides, 67* before rolling over backwards, 65* before rolling over foward.

I've got the shocks mounted where I think they'll work best. Everything is just tacked in. I have to build the upper link mounts on the axle and I'll be able to cycle the suspension. If everything works out I can finish the welds and finish boxing in the control arms. The anti squat and roll (over) steer is calculated at 71% and 4*.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN5289.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN5285.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/DSCN5286.jpg

nice lower arms!!:D

I would triangulate the lowers and mount them in front of the axle instead of on top of the axle. Your lower links are good for a prerunner but are going to be a bummer in the rocks.

Check out the rear suspension on MD's new car.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1003660&highlight=mustard+dog+friends

Thanks,
I brought the lower links in 8" on the 4 link calculator and it cut my roll over steer down to 2*. I understand the that my lower link design is going to hurt me on the rocks but I still want to how bad for myself.

I would triangulate the lowers and mount them in front of the axle instead of on top of the axle. Your lower links are good for a prerunner but are going to be a bummer in the rocks.

Check out the rear suspension on MD's new car.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1003660&highlight=mustard+dog+friends

Is your suggestion on bringing the lower link mout to the front of the axle to help fight axle wrap/tortional twist?

Is your suggestion on bringing the lower link mout to the front of the axle to help fight axle wrap/tortional twist?

it will help get some seperation from your upper links for one, plus having those lower link mounts on the front of the axle instead of the top like you have it, will relieve like 2 to 3k torque on those heims and mounts...

It's finally standing on it's own.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0053.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0050.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0049.jpg

There's still 4" of up travel in the shocks but I need to make some room for my drive shaft to take advantage of it. Total so far it's getting 17.5" of travel. I still need to finish the link mounts on the axle, finish boxing the links, and shorten the links up an inch. I also think that my spring rates are too high (250 over 300).

I did lower the lower links and triangulate them more too.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0048.jpg

very nice!!:smokin:

lets go take it off some sweet jumps:D

lets go take it off some sweet jumps:D

That's the plan. Let me get the air bumps mounted on the front first. (Then we'll see what falls off.):D

Here's the latest progress. I still need to finish mounting the rear seat, the tank mount, the axle truss, and the lower links. I'm also thinking about selling the rear seat and just putting a single seat in between the shocks.

Will these springs "settle" at all? I keep thinking that the buggy looks too high in the rear but it's actually sitting level now. I was too used to seeing it sagging in the rear with my old leaf springs.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0079.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0080.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0081.jpg

Really nice setup. Any idea what your baseline valving will be in the dampers?

Thanks,
The front is 90/30. The rear is 90/45. (comp/reb.) It's all a guess. I still haven't been able to take it out on a test run. I should be out testing next week.

Are you going to be wheelin' KOH week, Richard? I'm looking for some people to run trails with on Mon-Tues-Weds, and maybe Thursday! :grinpimp:

I'll probably get out there on Wednesday. I have the FToy here in 29 Palms right now. Once I get a few more things buttoned up I'll be taking it out on some short runs to make sure everything is working. Maybe you can organize an All FToy run.

Can I come

Hell yeah! Does 3 make a convoy?

I guess you got the brake lines all bent up, since you're posting?:flipoff2:

It got cold and I got hungry.:crybaby:

They're ran all the way along the frame and the flex line is hanging down towards the axle. I just need to finish the lines along the axle, connect to the flex line and bleed. I also got the propane tank mounted lower and started working on the rear rock lights.:D

I'll probably get out there on Wednesday. I have the FToy here in 29 Palms right now. Once I get a few more things buttoned up I'll be taking it out on some short runs to make sure everything is working. Maybe you can organize an All FToy run.

Can I come

Hell yeah!

I'll PM Jake and Jess.
I pm'ed Loosekannon, but haven't heard back from him.
Does jedrattle still have that FToy he bought last year?

Do we know of anyone else heading out there with FToys just to fawk off?

Hell yeah!

I'll PM Jake and Jess.
I pm'ed Loosekannon, but haven't heard back from him.
Does jedrattle still have that FToy he bought last year?

Do we know of anyone else heading out there with FToys just to fawk off?
Chase will be there, Jedrattle will not (he sold his ftoy) geek squad AKA 4x4 taco will most likely be there as well. We will need to set some hard times and ill drive up for the day. Lets say Wednesday. Which ever day does not have races on spooners and outer limits... Up one and down the other. Ill talk to jake and Jess to see if they are going

Got a PM from both Jake and Jess and they've got a broken 4.10 hp front diff they need to replace.

I offered them my 5.29 elocker front, but they are 4.10 rear, too.

OlMan is busy pitting all week.

Let's firm up Wednesday. I would absolutely love to run both OL and Spooners.

Got a PM from both Jake and Jess and they've got a broken 4.10 hp front diff they need to replace.

I offered them my 5.29 elocker front, but they are 4.10 rear, too.

OlMan is busy pitting all week.

Let's firm up Wednesday. I would absolutely love to run both OL and Spooners.



Wish mine was done:emb: Next Year!:grinpimp:

Wish mine was done:emb: Next Year!:grinpimp:

Yes!

Chase will be there, Jedrattle will not (he sold his ftoy) geek squad AKA 4x4 taco will most likely be there as well. We will need to set some hard times and ill drive up for the day. Lets say Wednesday. Which ever day does not have races on spooners and outer limits... Up one

Let's firm up Wednesday. I would absolutely love to run both OL and Spooners.

Early morning Wednesday! Rod will be on the lakebed @ 7am.

Meeting spot? Bridge on the south side of the lakebed @ 8am?

I got a little more work done and actually drove it up and down the vertical face of a 35" loading dock here at work. I also found a spot to where I was able to get a little bit of air time. Nothing to extreme just a little test before I actually take it out to the open desert.

Here's some pictures from when I flexed with the forklift. I think that it would have flexed a little more if I had my normal load in it. About 600lbs of people, tools, parts, cooler, and sometimes my spare tire.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/IMG_0203.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/IMG_0207.jpg

Here's the coil spring before I started compressing. I'm going to adjust my crossover ring so that my upper spring doesn't compress anymore than this.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/IMG_0206.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/IMG_0210.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/IMG_0211.jpg

Here we lifted the entire thing just to see where the cog was. Once I get it fully loaded I'm going to get the four corner scales so I can get my true cog.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/IMG_0212.jpg



I made my (rear) 4" bump stops into 2.5" bump stops so that they wouldn't affect my flex. I noticed that they come close to making contact with the pad (more than 4" of space) because the tire hits the tube work first. Could I change them back into 4" bumps since they'll only make contact when I come done hard and level?

:smokin:

Early morning Wednesday! Rod will be on the lakebed @ 7am.

Meeting spot? Bridge on the south side of the lakebed @ 8am?

I will be there Saturday to Sunday and would like to wheel with ya guys.

I will be there Saturday to Sunday and would like to wheel with ya guys.

:smokin: I'm working Sun and Fri. Wheelin' Mon-Thurs. :grinpimp:

We have fully hijacked Richard's thread. I hope he can make it, too!

PM me your cell # if it works on the lakebed.

How much more reinforcing do these bump stop brackets need? Some plates between the vertical tube and the can? The bump stops converted air shocks. I didn't convert them but I did tear them apart and verify the valving, shock oil amount, and nitrogen pressure. Do I need to also add a bolt through the upper shock eye of the bump stop?

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0113.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0114.jpg


Don't worry about the hijack. I'm not worried.

I don't know a ton about bump stops, but I do know on JeepSpeeds that they reinforce the shit out of the bumpstop mount..but they're also made out of pop cans or something.

You usually don't see a bolt or anything above the bump stop in a traditional bump stop, so I'd think the outer can and clamps will do it.

I would absolutely plate it. Keep the can from rotating side to side.

the idea is to have tubing go from the stop up and over the cage to the other stop.

looks like you connected the tube from the stop and up the top of the chassis which is good.

the can will need to be attached at more points or that can will rip off

I got the bump stop cans reinforced and my rear lights working. Two red tail lights and brake lights, one amber tail light and brake light, and one reverse light. Tomorrow I'll have my rear rock lights done. It's almost ready.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0121.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0122.jpg

it looks like there is nothing more than the clamping force of the can holding those bumps in there... most air bumps bodies are machined with either a step in them or a groove for a snap ring, or the can is designed with a "cap" at the top:

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Media/Images/Large/2.0%20BUMP%20STOP%20FOX.jpg

http://www.genright.com/images/products/New_Images_June2011/KABBS2041_md.jpg

i would look into a real set of air bumps or try to have the bodies machined for a snap ring... would have to see those things fire out of the cans on the first hard hit

How much more reinforcing do these bump stop brackets need? Some plates between the vertical tube and the can? The bump stops converted air shocks. I didn't convert them but I did tear them apart and verify the valving, shock oil amount, and nitrogen pressure. Do I need to also add a bolt through the upper shock eye of the bump stop?

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0113.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/chvyhs/Formula%20Four%20FToy/Photo0114.jpg


Don't worry about the hijack. I'm not worried.

If I were you I would machine a groove for a snapring about 3/4" from the end of the body on the seal carrier side, put a snapring on and run them. Same type of deal as these: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Budget-Bump-Stop-p-25577.html