And yes I searched :flipoff2:

So I got my TIG all setup and am ready to play... I went to the local Welding supply to buy some filler, but they had all kinds of stuff... SO, lets put together a "Pirate TIG Filler Guide"


I looked at Mild Steel Uncoated, Mild Steel Coated, all the numbers seem like rocket science to me. What good does the coating do? The folks at the shop said to remove the coating before welding with it :eek:

are you talking about a flux coated tig rod ? What material was the core ? Generally I just use a copper colored mild steel filler rod for mild steel , there are others that are specific for chrome moly tube. The number escapes me at the moment. And with aluminum I try and match the rod to the alloy of aluminum. Not always though... sometimes I just wing it and if it welds like shiiit I get a different rod. 304 stainless rod is good for sending impurities to the bottom of the weld puddle when tigging mild steel.

You will want ER70S2 for mild carbon steel. leaving the copper color on the wire wont do much other than reducing the silica that may or may not float around on your puddle.

I have never encountered flux covered or filled tig wire. It should be bare (no flux coating) and without any kind of core. You may have been looking at brazing rod.

Nah, they had a Copper coated mild steel, and bare mild steel...

But they said I'd need to remove the copper before using it, that is was coated just for storage purposes??

I wanna know about Mild Steels, Chromoly, and Alloys at this point... Stainless I got....

you can take that stuff off with a scotchbrite pad pretty easily. Ive never done it tho.

ER70S2..

Whats the difference in the last number? I see some that is ER70S3, and some ER70S6

ER70S2..

Whats the difference in the last number? I see some that is ER70S3, and some ER70S6

It's designates minor differences in the composition of the filler.

S-2, 3, and 6 are generally the most common for ER70 filler. The biggest differences is that S-6 filler wire contains higher Manganese and Silicon (1.4 to 1.85% and .8 to 1.15% respectively). These elements act as deoxidizers, so S-6 wire is generally more tolerant of light rust, and are a better choice when using an Ar-O2 gas mix. Impact testing on S-3 wire is required to be done at 0°F, while S-2 and S-6 are at -20°F for a wire to carry those AWS designations. S-2 wire must also contain portions of Titanium (.05-.15%), Zirconium (.02-.12%), and Aluminum (.05-.15%), S-3 contains none of those elements, S-6 contains .5-.9% of Aluminum. I am unsure of the exact properties that these elements give the weld, but I think it has to do with how the puddle wets out. Composition info is from Lincoln's Handbook of Arc Welding 14th ed.

You do not need to remove the copper coating from the filler, whoever told you that doesn't know what they're talking about, or thinks you're looking for gas welding filler. RG45 and RG60 designations are gas welding filler. I seem to remember RG60 coming as a bare wire, and RG45 coming copper coated.

I've never heard of ER304 stainless classification. ER308 is a good filler for 304 stainless. ER309 has a higher nickle and chromium content is good for joining stainless to carbon steel.

You do not need to remove the copper coating from the filler, whoever told you that doesn't know what they're talking about, or thinks you're looking for gas welding filler. RG45 and RG60 designations are gas welding filler. I seem to remember RG60 coming as a bare wire, and RG45 coming copper coated.



RG45 = 45,000 psi tensile strength
RG60 = 60,000 psi tensile strength

Copper coating is to allow for drawing die wear (copper acts as a lubricant, super thin coating). More for the production of welding wire.

With 4130 I use RG45. Weld area is much larger than the tubing, and as the weld shrinks it allows for elangation. No need to remove the copper, but a scotchbrite pad with a wipe down of alcohol is OK if it makes you feel better. :)

As to counter guys at the weld shops... One of them flat out told me you can not O/A weld aluminum. I asked "well how did they build all those WWII aircraft?" His comment was it was they only used TIG welders :shaking:

i will put this to rest here ... im tired of bad information on GTAW filler.

THE COPPER COATING IS THERE TO PROTECT THE FILLER FROM RUSTING DURING STORAGE. LOOK IT UP. CHECK AWS, ASME, ASTM, AND ANY OTHER REFERENCE YOU WISH.

does it alloy the weld a bit? hell yes it does. do you magically have a copper weld? hell no.

the coating has absolutely nothing to do with "the amount of silicon floating around in your weld". and you do not need to take it off with scotchbrite unless you are bored and feel like wasting your time and money.

wherever you went to shop, stop going. the idiot that said you need to remove the copper coating before you weld with it is obviously a babbling idiot with ZERO GTAW experience. kick him in the nuts, kill his children, eat his pets, and burn his home.

ATTN IGNORANT PEOPLE: keep your ignorant welding advice to yourself (not anyone in this thread really ... that is directed more to the aforementioned babbling idiot), drink bleach and die.

thanks. thats all for now :flipoff2:

What about that yellow/gold colored coating on my coat hangars.. should I be taking that off before welding with it?

:flipoff2:

i will put this to rest here ... im tired of bad information on GTAW filler.

THE COPPER COATING IS THERE TO PROTECT THE FILLER FROM RUSTING DURING STORAGE. LOOK IT UP. CHECK AWS, ASME, ASTM, AND ANY OTHER REFERENCE YOU WISH.

does it alloy the weld a bit? hell yes it does. do you magically have a copper weld? hell no.

the coating has absolutely nothing to do with "the amount of silicon floating around in your weld". and you do not need to take it off with scotchbrite unless you are bored and feel like wasting your time and money.

wherever you went to shop, stop going. the idiot that said you need to remove the copper coating before you weld with it is obviously a babbling idiot with ZERO GTAW experience. kick him in the nuts, kill his children, eat his pets, and burn his home.

ATTN IGNORANT PEOPLE: keep your ignorant welding advice to yourself (not anyone in this thread really ... that is directed more to the aforementioned babbling idiot), drink bleach and die.

thanks. thats all for now :flipoff2:

Sorry, but the copper coating is there as a lubricant from the drawing process. FWIW, it also does NOT prevent rust.

If you're going to jump on a soapbox, please get your shit straight.

You will want ER70S2 for mild carbon steel

Works for Chromo as well.

ER70S6 - 30lb spool in my mig, and 36" lengths for the TIG 1/16, 3/32, 1/8. So far I like it.. but I haven't used much of anything else :D

ER70S6 Info:
http://www.weldingmaterialsales.com/Product_pages/er70s6_productpage.htm

ER70S2 Info:
http://www.weldingmaterialsales.com/Product_pages/er70s2_productpage.htm

i will put this to rest here ... im tired of bad information on GTAW filler.

THE COPPER COATING IS THERE TO PROTECT THE FILLER FROM RUSTING DURING STORAGE. LOOK IT UP. CHECK AWS, ASME, ASTM, AND ANY OTHER REFERENCE YOU WISH.

does it alloy the weld a bit? hell yes it does. do you magically have a copper weld? hell no.

the coating has absolutely nothing to do with "the amount of silicon floating around in your weld". and you do not need to take it off with scotchbrite unless you are bored and feel like wasting your time and money.

wherever you went to shop, stop going. the idiot that said you need to remove the copper coating before you weld with it is obviously a babbling idiot with ZERO GTAW experience. kick him in the nuts, kill his children, eat his pets, and burn his home.

ATTN IGNORANT PEOPLE: keep your ignorant welding advice to yourself (not anyone in this thread really ... that is directed more to the aforementioned babbling idiot), drink bleach and die.

thanks. thats all for now :flipoff2:


While the CU electroplate coating may increase rust resistance and may aid current pickup at the contact tip in GMAW, the PRIMARY FUNCTION of the Cu electroplate coating on solid GMAW/GTAW filler is (as already said) to aid in the drawing process.

I have no idea what im talking about, but if I say it loud enough someone will believe me.

I think thats what you meant to say...

For what your doing you really wont notice a difference between -s2, -s6, whatever. Also you can either leave the coating on or not, it also wont have a noticeable effect (to you). But dont get uncoated wire, it will start to rust much faster than coated.

Sometimes for high quality work it is important to take the coating off before you weld, it *might* build up enough to show as an inclusion on an xray. You see those guys in the shop pounding out RT and UT welds? They dont scrub off the filler because some guy at the weld shop told them too.

Stay away from RG wire, its not meant for TIG. If you get in a bind its also perfectly acceptable to straighten out MIG wire and run that. Hell, ive knocked the flux off a stick rod and ran that in a few special applications.

ER70S6 Info:
http://www.weldingmaterialsales.com/Product_pages/er70s6_productpage.htm

ER70S2 Info:
http://www.weldingmaterialsales.com/Product_pages/er70s2_productpage.htm

Looks like I had S-2 and S-6 fluidity vs deoxidizers mixed up.

ER70S6 - 30lb spool in my mig, and 36" lengths for the TIG 1/16, 3/32, 1/8. So far I like it.. but I haven't used much of anything else :D

ER70S6 Info:
http://www.weldingmaterialsales.com/Product_pages/er70s6_productpage.htm

ER70S2 Info:
http://www.weldingmaterialsales.com/Product_pages/er70s2_productpage.htm
er70s for me too, use it in my mig and on the tig, 3/32 mostly on the tig. 308L stainless rod for your usual stainless, 1/16 and 3/32.
dont remember what i use on aluminum.

I haven't welded stainless or AL with my TIG yet... I want too :smokin: but have had no projects yet. Might have to get some stainless and AL to play with.

I have used ER70S6 in my MIG to weld Stainless and Mild together for a storage rack, scrap material I had... probably not the best combo but holding 100's of pounds so far for a few years :laughing:

Newb TIG filler question.

Ive been using ER70S2 for welding mild steel with awesome results, but, now have access to 1/16th 4130 chromo filler. I have been practicing with it on the bench welding mild steel with good results. I have read using ER70 filler on chromoly is ok, but is using the 4130 filler on mild steel acceptable?

I dont want to weld something up and find out im a retard and have the welds fail :flipoff2:

Newb TIG filler question.

Ive been using ER70S2 for welding mild steel with awesome results, but, now have access to 1/16th 4130 chromo filler. I have been practicing with it on the bench welding mild steel with good results. I have read using ER70 filler on chromoly is ok, but is using the 4130 filler on mild steel acceptable?

I dont want to weld something up and find out im a retard and have the welds fail :flipoff2:
why not just use your cromo filler on your cromo?

why not just use your cromo filler on your cromo?


Ummm, I do?

Just wondering the ups/downs of using the chromo filler. It just seems like it flows really well when burning on mild steel :D

ER80s-d2

E-Electrode
R-Rod
80- Tensile strength (1,000 lbs)

D2- deoxidizers ect (random sh!t they put in it)

mig welding is exactly the same way of labeling.

oxy is close

but oxy will be something like

rg45
R-rod
G-gas

45- 45,000psi

chromo i believe u want to use

er80s-d6

RG45 = 45,000 psi tensile strength
RG60 = 60,000 psi tensile strength

Copper coating is to allow for drawing die wear (copper acts as a lubricant, super thin coating). More for the production of welding wire.

With 4130 I use RG45. Weld area is much larger than the tubing, and as the weld shrinks it allows for elangation. No need to remove the copper, but a scotchbrite pad with a wipe down of alcohol is OK if it makes you feel better. :)

As to counter guys at the weld shops... One of them flat out told me you can not O/A weld aluminum. I asked "well how did they build all those WWII aircraft?" His comment was it was they only used TIG welders :shaking:





rg45 is a oxy rod.

you want a rod labeled ER
for electrode Rod

not Rod Gas



and if the guy at the welding store knew what he was talking about he would be a weldor,,, not making minimum wage working at a counter

why not just use your cromo filler on your cromo?

Because with 4130 filler, post weld heat treatment is absolutely mandatory unless you like cracked welds. Without the capability to shove an entire 4130 chassis into a heat treating oven after welding, you have to make a compromise somewhere. 80S-D2 is a pretty close match to 4130 and doesn't require any complicated PWHT. 70S-2/S-6 will also work just fine, but they are not as close a match to 4130 as the 80kpsi filler is. There is a long ongoing debate with the chro-mo crowd on what is the best filler to use, so be prepared for differing opinions depending on who you ask.

Here's a good article on it:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Best-Practices-for-GTA-Welding-of-4130-Chrome-Moly-Tubing/

rg45 is a oxy rod.

you want a rod labeled ER
for electrode Rod

not Rod Gas



Old thread... my comment on RG45 and RG60 was in response to an earlier comment about the difference between the two. RG is used in O/A welding.

I still need a new argon regulator... till then my Meco O/A is getting a workout. :)

Tom

I use the brutus tig from http://www.rockmountnassau.com/product1.html its great stuff and welds awesome and they are also great to deal with