Chevy knuckles with High Steer and Scout outers?

[uglyscout]

I am currently working on a high steer set up for my Scout II and plan to use Chevy flat top knuckles redrilled for the 8 bolt Scout spindle and then use all my Scout parts for the brakes, etc.

Has anyone done this and did it all fit? IE. did you high steer arm hit your tire, did part X hit part Y.

I already plan on using a 1" block under the high steer arm for clearing the springs - anything else to consider?

And don't try and talk me into going to Ford/Chevy outers - my money has already been wasted on Scout parts that are still in great shape.

[Hooper]

Originally posted by uglyscout
I am currently working on a high steer set up for my Scout II and plan to use Chevy flat top knuckles redrilled for the 8 bolt Scout spindle and then use all my Scout parts for the brakes, etc.

Has anyone done this and did it all fit? IE. did you high steer arm hit your tire, did part X hit part Y.

I already plan on using a 1" block under the high steer arm for clearing the springs - anything else to consider?

And don't try and talk me into going to Ford/Chevy outers - my money has already been wasted on Scout parts that are still in great shape.

You add the 1 inch spacer, is your tie rod going to hit your oil pan on full compression???

[Old Scout]

WTF Chris:confused:
You asked this a few weeks back on the BB and got all the info you needed. :rolleyes: Why is it here?

[uglyscout]

It never hurts to get more than one opinion - and I am sure there are guys here that have done this, or something similar, that don't/won't go to the BB. And what better place to have your ideas trashed and torn apart and left with that worthless feeling than right here!

As for the Tie Rod - I have decided to keep it low, in the stock location, to avoid the posibility of smashing an oil pan.

[RustoleumWhite]

Originally posted by uglyscout
It never hurts to get more than one opinion - and I am sure there are guys here that have done this, or something similar, that don't/won't go to the BB. And what better place to have your ideas trashed and torn apart and left with that worthless feeling than right here!

As for the Tie Rod - I have decided to keep it low, in the stock location, to avoid the posibility of smashing an oil pan.


yes, but the thing is, the guys that answered over there are the same guys over here :rolleyes:

You will find that *most* of use cross check... even if they say they don't.



I don't feel like typing it again, but the short answer is yes, most arms will hit. Some won't, some will. Before you buy, talk with the maker and make sure you can return them if they do, or if they will make you custom ones.

[Hooper]

Originally posted by uglyscout
It never hurts to get more than one opinion - and I am sure there are guys here that have done this, or something similar, that don't/won't go to the BB. And what better place to have your ideas trashed and torn apart and left with that worthless feeling than right here!

As for the Tie Rod - I have decided to keep it low, in the stock location, to avoid the posibility of smashing an oil pan.

So, you are going high steer but keeping the tie rod low? What size tires are you running? If you are running up to 33's, just put a Z link on it and call it good. Only reason I would go with trouble and expense of high steer would be to get my tie rod up out of the way of rocks. To do all that, just to move the drag link up seems like a lot of trouble/money to me.

I will go high steer one of these days, with drag link and tie rod, and I realize I will need to address the tie rod to drag link issue (not sure what the remedy will be) but I need to get my tie rod and drag link out of harms way.

Not too high on my list of priorities though. Need some other stuff first.

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by Hooper


So, you are going high steer but keeping the tie rod low? What size tires are you running? If you are running up to 33's, just put a Z link on it and call it good. Only reason I would go with trouble and expense of high steer would be to get my tie rod up out of the way of rocks. To do all that, just to move the drag link up seems like a lot of trouble/money to me.



Just raise the draglink, you get a stronger draglink, less bump steer.

And if you use Chevy outers, there's no place to attach a Z-link to anyhow.


I will need to address the tie rod to drag link issue (not sure what the remedy will be) but I need to get my tie rod and drag link out of harms way.


Well, the "easy" answer is a dipped tie-rod like the factory used, but dipped more. :)

[Hooper]

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Just raise the draglink, you get a stronger draglink, less bump steer.

And if you use Chevy outers, there's no place to attach a Z-link to anyhow.



Well, the "easy" answer is a dipped tie-rod like the factory used, but dipped more. :)

Sure, a high draglink has advantages, but are the advantages worth the $$ and effort, just to raise the draglink?

On the tie rod, sure a dipped tie rod would work, but strength....?

[uglyscout]

Hooper - I am running 35's.

And seriously by the time I am done I will probably have only spent what a z drag link would cost. I currently have way, way, way more time than money!

But - I am not eliminating the possiblity of raising the tie rod in the future - I just need to build it and run it and see what kind of clearance I end up with. If it looks like pleanty of room to raise the tie rod up it will go.

Hopefully when I am done I will have elimianted the bump steer almost completly and increased my drag link strength considerably. My current weak link is my drag link - I have bent 3 or 4 of them and am running as reinforced one right now but I could see bending it too.

[jdjanda]

Originally posted by Old Scout
WTF Chris:confused:
You asked this a few weeks back on the BB and got all the info you needed. :rolleyes: Why is it here?

What's the BB, Hi-steer tech there too :rolleyes:

Dam newbies, can't live with em, can't stuff em in a bag

[SSIIprop]

I used Chevy knuckles, but redrilled the spindles to fit the six bolt knuckles. Everything fit, BUT I had a Tri County Gear Steering arm and had to grind some material off of the outside where it rubbed the tire. All the brakes, etc. went on without trouble

[slipscomb]

When I did my soa, I raised the tie rod and drag link above the springs. Only on a few occasions did the tie rod hit the oil pan at extreme flex. I left it alone for about 6 years until I went with 1 tons, then I put a 1 inch spacer between the motor mounts and the engine brackets. I had to knock the top stud from the motor mount and put longer bolts in it but it was a fairly easy project.

Might try bump stops as well to avoid the motor mount spacer. Good luck.

[slipscomb]

C:\WINDOWS\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\F3LVNXGG\SSIISlipRock[1].jpg

[Mechanos]

Originally posted by slipscomb
C:\WINDOWS\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\F3LVNXGG\SSIISlipRock[1].jpg

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Now that's funny.... file:///C:/WINDOWS/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/Content.IE5/F3LVNXGG/SSIISlipRock%5B1%5D.jpg
We can see the picture if it's still on your hard drive, bonehead.

[RustoleumWhite]

slip, you need your communist red star....





DA!

[Snoopy]

Originally posted by uglyscout
I am currently working on a high steer set up for my Scout II and plan to use Chevy flat top knuckles redrilled for the 8 bolt Scout spindle and then use all my Scout parts for the brakes, etc.

Has anyone done this and did it all fit? IE. did you high steer arm hit your tire, did part X hit part Y.

Hey, I've got 3 sets of those already done and I also have the 1" spacer, the arms and all hardware for them. The dust sheild does not work after the conversion, some (with lift springs) have had to put a 5-10* bend in the arms. But pretty much the Scout outters are a bolt-on. Here are some pictures

[Snoopy]

ANOTHER

BTW ~These are 15x10 standard offset rims, arms and TREs clear tires with 1/2" to spare. No problems with ankerman angle or any other steering geometry. yes these are identical arms to Scott@RockStomper...

[Hooper]

Originally posted by slipscomb
When I did my soa, I raised the tie rod and drag link above the springs. Only on a few occasions did the tie rod hit the oil pan at extreme flex. I left it alone for about 6 years until I went with 1 tons, then I put a 1 inch spacer between the motor mounts and the engine brackets. I had to knock the top stud from the motor mount and put longer bolts in it but it was a fairly easy project.

Might try bump stops as well to avoid the motor mount spacer. Good luck.

Hmm, don't like extended bump stops, they hurt articulation, but *added* bump stops might work. Figure out where to mount them inboard, just outside of the oil pan.... Then they would not limit tire articulation, just keep the middle of the axle from coming too far up....

have to crawl around under there and take a look. I wouldn't want them the bump stops to contact the oil pan. I think bouncing your axle off the oil pan, even with rubber/poly bump stops, is asking for oil leaks... But, there should be a way to mount some off the frame that would work...

[Hooper]

Originally posted by slipscomb
C:\WINDOWS\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\F3LVNXGG\SSIISlipRock[1].jpg

E-mail me the pic slip, and I will post it for you.

[Hooper]

Originally posted by Snoopy
another

Ahh, How nice it would be to have enough money to buy all these cool toys.

[Snoopy]

last

FYI ~ all parts & hardware - INCLUDING new X-duty 1 1/2"x 1/4" DOM DragLink and TieRod (complete with new ES150R TRE and applicable inserts). Total cost for conversion kit $480.

[uglyscout]

Snoopy
What kind of hardware are you using to attach the arms? Have you had any shearing/loosing problems?

[Old Scout]

The spacer and thin arm look kind of weak. I'll take one thick ass arm over a two piece unit.

[Mechanos]

Those PartsMike Super Arms are sweet!!! I have a set just like them sitting on the workbench just begging me to bolt them up.

[Old Scout]

Originally posted by TORC
Those PartsMike Super Arms are sweet!!! I have a set just like them sitting on the workbench just begging me to bolt them up.

I have a ton of room. 17x9 wheel with 5":eek: of BS

[Snoopy]

Originally posted by uglyscout
Snoopy
What kind of hardware are you using to attach the arms? Have you had any shearing/loosing problems?

We use the stock style chevy cone-washers like PartsMike does. Then we use lockwashers and red locktite...NEVER had any problems street or off-road. No loose goose's either.