I just put disc brakes on the 14 bolt rear in my 76 3/4-ton and now I want to install a pressure regulator. I read some where to just connect the line from the mc to the front brake line with a tee and to put the adjustable regulator between the lines for the rear. First, is this correct? Second, which line is which on the master cylinder. It looks like the 3/16" line with a bigger fitting that was on the combination valve is for the front and the 1/4" line with a smaller fitting on the comb valve is for the rear. Can anyone confirm?

you dont need it.

Could save yourself the trouble for now and see if you even need it. I'm working on a 14FF build and asked a similar question on another 4x site and some of them don't run 'em. Only time they have a rear lock up is emergency braking if something or someone runs out in from of ya. I didn't ask about snow or dirt/gravel. I've heard if you did want a regulator they make them that go on the calipers themselves. I haven't actually looked it up yet though.

It sounds to me like he is asking about a Prop valve.

I’m still looking for the right prop valve, not satisfied with what I have seen yet.

And then there is also the need for some kind of Brake lock.

I used a Mico, lever lock.

Their website.
http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=43

Here is the install info.
http://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&pid=gmail&attid=0.1&thid=124ef9e6dcc27a46&mt=application%2Fpdf&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2F%3Fui%3D 2%26ik%3D696f819144%26view%3Datt%26th%3D124ef9e6dc c27a46%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dattd%26zw&sig=AHIEtbQ17lJQ7oFDsTD65wHuhlPZ2YcQCg

I converted a 14 bolt as well and didn’t do it in the conventional (3/4 Ton Chevy parts) manner for a few reasons.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=533375

Should I change the master cylinder and comb valve to ones that are stock for a disc/ disc set-up? Got part #'s?

no,

if you are seriously looking to throw money away ill pm you my address.

all you stock stuff is just fine.

pae is a over retentive airplane mech[ie nerd who spends 10x to much effort and isnt happy unless he makes it super specail so that it is better than everyone elses]

i have had my setup for 5 years now, stock master, stock valve, no extra reducer, no hub register spacer, no expensive bullshit, i couldnt be happier with it. it stops my 6500lb truck with 38"s easy, if i mash on it it just dips the front and grabs harder. i when i swaped the d60 in front i noticed a very slight softer pedal and it still prforms flawlessly.

Sorry, just finished looking at your conversion post. I saw th Napa part # for the MC. I still would like to know about the comb. valve or prop valve whatever you call it. Nice work on the custom machined parts. I'm good enough at machining to make a one-off, but not repeatable precision.

Thanks, and no I don't have money to throw away. Who does these days? I just want sound advice to keep me safe on and off the road. My rig is turning into my DD. Had to sell my 07 to get rid of the payment. I'll try using the stock parts. I'm running 38's too.

i dd, i have probably 4-50,000 miles on this setup.

If you already have a 3/4 ton I would think it'd be fine too. I'm putting a 14FF with the disc conv. 3/4 ton calipers under a 1/2 ton truck. My brakes already suck on the front and always have so I'd imagine I'll be possibly looking at rear lock up fairly easy. I would rather do a upgrade to the front anyway since even just a bed full of fire wood I have to mash the brakes hard to slow down. Not much better empty. I'm about 5900#, but I'm only running 35's too. Let us know how this works out for ya. I'm curious since I'm not done yet with my axle build.

My truck has a 1ton master, hydroboost, stock d60 front brakes, 3/4 ton rear rotors w/ 1/2 ton calipers, stock half ton proportioning valve, and the brakes are EXCEPTIONAL. 2 parts trucks stuck together, and I couldn't ask for them to work better.

Offroad, the uphill end will lock up just a hair before the downhill end. Does this with both ends, so the brakes are pretty well balanced. On-road, it'll lock the rears first, but only if you stab the brakes hard to pitch the truck forward.

I went ahead and tried the stock parts. After bleeding last night and going for a test drive I was alittle dissapointed. I have to admit I don't have much to compare too since this is the first truck I have ever driven like this. The truck is a 77 3/4-ton 4x4 chassis with a 76 1/2-ton 4x2 cab. I have to assume the brake booster and MC are stock for the 1/2-ton 4x2. When I drove last night the brakes didn't lockup at all front or rear. I'm going to try bleeding some more to make sure the system is solid. The pedal feels faily good with the engine running and is fairly solid when the engine is off. The truck nosed down and came to a stop ok but all I can compare to is newer, lighter vehicles with stock brakes and there was a big difference. This truck was not driveable when I bought it and the rear brakes were shot so I felt money was better spent on converting to disc. I would still like to see about changing the MC and comb. valve to disc/ disc parts to see if there is an improvement.

It sounds to me like he is asking about a Prop valve.

I’m still looking for the right prop valve, not satisfied with what I have seen yet.

And then there is also the need for some kind of Brake lock.

I used a Mico, lever lock.

Their website.
http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=43

Here is the install info.
http://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&pid=gmail&attid=0.1&thid=124ef9e6dcc27a46&mt=application%2Fpdf&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2

Fmail%2F%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D696f819144%26view%3Datt%2 6th%3D124ef9e6dcc27a46%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dattd %26zw&sig=AHIEtbQ17lJQ7oFDsTD65wHuhlPZ2YcQCg

I converted a 14 bolt as well and didn’t do it in the conventional (3/4 Ton Chevy parts) manner for a few reasons.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=533375

Do you have any pics of you brake booster and MC? I looked up the Napa MC and it says something about hydroboost, which I do not have. I wonder if it will work for me?

PM sent.

Do you have any pics of you brake booster and MC? I looked up the Napa MC and it says something about hydroboost, which I do not have. I wonder if it will work for me?

i dd, i have probably 4-50,000 miles on this setup.

Do your bakes lock up in front, rear, both, or neither? I'm not sure if I have a bad MC or still have air in the system. It seemed like it took about 40 to 50 feet to come to a stop from about 35-40 mph and nothing locks up even if I jam hard on the pedal.

sound like u need to bleed it more.... they should lock up

I thought the rear would lock up at least, but I do have about 120 lbs in tires and wheels at each corner and these are stock 3/4-ton rotors and calipers all the way around. Bleeding is easy so I guess I'll try some more and see what happens. The weather here in KC is getting crappy and I'm borrowing a pickup from my in-laws. Hope to get this working better soon. Besides I really want to drive this truck. I just want to know that the brakes are working as good as they can before I dd, especially in bad weather.

i dont know what world you live in but locking up is a BAD thing.

when you lock your brakes and slide you are not making maximum stopping power.

i dont know what world you live in but locking up is a BAD thing.

when you lock your brakes and slide you are not making maximum stopping power.

I agree 100%, but 40' to 50' to stop from 40mph seems a bit weak. I guess I just expected the rear to lock up when I jam the pedal based on what others have said. I think it's time to bleed more. I'll follow up when the rain/ snow mix lifts.