I found what I thought and still think is a great deal this last weekend in the junkyard. It is a goodwrench crate 350 for $135. I got it home and started pulling stuf off and found that it has atleast one bent valve and a matching scared piston. This is going in a Mitshibish Mighty Max so im not worried about power, I want to keep this motor as stock as possible for ease and reliability. So my question is, if everything else looks good can I just replace the one piston and valve with a (stock) replacement? Or do I need all new pistons and valves? I know how to work on motors just never really rebuilt one with this major of a problem.

Piston should be fine as is. Make sure the valve springs are not tired. If it is an intake valve that got bent-engine may have been over reved and the valves floated and one got tagged by a piston. Make sure the pushrod is straight as well and didn't get bent.

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http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/camcw103/IMG_0095.jpg

Thats the damage to the piston, I looked at the cylinder walls and cont really see any or fell any groves or damage. So if I can keep the piston (cleaned up and debured) can I replace just the exhaust valve? Of course I will check the valve spring and push rod.

Yup deburr and check the pushrod for straightness. Heck yer that far apart, take the engine all the way down and inspect the rest of it.

While youre there, replace the valvesprings too.

you think that valve floated for no reason?

So I figured it out, now if it can be fixed. Ok where the valve go trough the head to the valve springs, there is an inner steel sleeve. I think that somehow that broke previousley, and the owner tried to jimmy rig it and use a brass sleeve (which was the wrong internal diameter) and the old valve which obviousley didn't work which is most likely why he junked it. So my next question is where can I get the correct sleeve?

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/camcw103/IMG_0108.jpg

I agree with replacing the valve springs, however I don't have a valve spring pressure tester. So does anyone have a guess as to what valves springs Chevy would use on a crate motor, or what the best choice would be. Remember I'm not after horsepower, I need reliable and resonably priced.

So I figured it out, now if it can be fixed. Ok where the valve go trough the head to the valve springs, there is an inner steel sleeve. I think that somehow that broke previousley, and the owner tried to jimmy rig it and use a brass sleeve (which was the wrong internal diameter) and the old valve which obviousley didn't work which is most likely why he junked it. So my next question is where can I get the correct sleeve?

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/camcw103/IMG_0108.jpg

Most likely a bronze sleeve. Either you have an 11/32 inch diameter exhaust stem or the 3/8 inch diameter stem. Hopefully, there was enough clearance on the valve stem in the respective guide. Too tight and the valve can hang open and get smacked. When you get your replacement valve-raise it just off the seat and there should be a barely perceptable clearance felt by rocking it side to side. If you have a dial indicator all the better. Should not fit/slide in the guide having to use force to push it. Actually should by its own weight slide. Hang in there.

Check your rods, make sure that there isn't a different length or stretched rod on that cylinder.

Long shot, but if torn down check em anyway.

So how hard is it to press out and press in new valve guides? Im just wondering if replacing the valves and doing the valve guide is worth it, or should I make another junk yard trip and pick up a new head?

It's not hard for the machine shop to do. There's nothing wrong with doing a lot of the assembly yourself, but some things are just better left to the pros. You'll be money and time ahead versus trying to do it yourself.