ok im sure its been beat to death and i did some searching and found out some good info. but im not a ford guy and id like feedback on those who have done it.

96 Bronco XLT 5.0 5 speed

i can get a 78 D44 on the cheap, its complete hub to hub
i know i need new radius arms and brackets
i know i will need to relocate the brackets

so i need to know a bit on steering components and the other little things i will run into. this is pretty much gonna be a DD/light trail/fishing vehicle that will only see 33's tops.

thanks for any help and sorry for the newbish type question

try looking at stone crusher steering.

WFO Concepts makes custom tie rods and drag links

Check out Fullsizebronco's.com SAS section. It'll have everything from full hydro to assist to flat top knuckles to normal steering locations.

Personally I'd buy 6' or so of 1.5" .250 DOM, the appropriate weld in link inserts from Polyperformance or another Pirate vendor, and the right link ends for what you want to run and build your own setup.

i will check out the fullsizebroncos.com tonite, if its going to be alot of work it might not be wirth it to me, i really dont like IFS but i can live with it

trust me it's worth not having to deal with all the bs from Ifs

i did one on a 95 f150 in a day. its really easy the only fab work u will have is the track bar bracket. i used everything off the same year truck your getting the axle from

If your only going to run 33's and its light wheeling fishing vehicle ..I'd keep the ttb.

I just put a tuff country 2.5 in lift and 33x 10.5 15 on the factory rims on my 96 bronco.

its fine for light wheeling and DD.

a lot of work for minimal gain unless you plan on running larger tires.
just my thoughts

i agree the ttb will do you just fine for what your doin get a bolt on suspension lift and tires if your runnin 33's the 3.55s that came stock in most of those will do fine but will feel sluggish

theres a good chance ill probly just keep the ttb then, it sounded like a good idea as im probly pickin the bronco up next week and i would have a fullsize ford and fullsize gm, both with axle swaps, manual trans and removable top:smokin:

Yeah no sense in replacing a D44 with a D44, the stock setup will work quite well if you know a thing or two about how they function. They'll flex much the same too if you lose the stiff-assed coils most lift kits come with (and of course ensuring the steering is still aligned correctly if you lift it, very often a longer drop pitman arm is needed than what lift kits provide, or even better, swap out the crappy stock Y-link steering for a K-link or something).

I run my Bronco II with it's TTB through some pretty good trails on 35x12.50s, and haven't found much to complain about on it.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=29

The main thing with a small lift with a solid D44 is engine cross member clearance. With less than 6" of lift you have to do some major trimming on the engine cross member to avoid the diff from hitting it, and even then its still tight.

I agree with everyone else, if you sticking with 33's I wouldnt worry about a SAS...

The main thing with a small lift with a solid D44 is engine cross member clearance. With less than 6" of lift you have to do some major trimming on the engine cross member to avoid the diff from hitting it, and even then its still tight.

I agree with everyone else, if you sticking with 33's I wouldnt worry about a SAS...

would you have the trimming issue on the cross member even if moving the front axle further forwards for more wheelbase?

yes, because the further foward you go the x-member dips down and you would have to hack it off to run your trac bar correctly, Ive got 6 deavers on the front of mine and had to put a little bend in my trac bar and it runs right under the middle of the x-member, but I also have about 8" of lift