Ive always been looking and searching around on here and finally registered. I'm in the process of installing a D44 HP into the front of my 01 Dakota. The D44 is from a 76 F150 that I cut down 6" and installed 79 F250 8 lug outters on. I ordered a shaft from broncograveyard for an early bronco with the narrower 44 that accepts the larger 297x u-joint. Just for a little extra information the 8 lug outters add 1-1/2" width. Also the 76 F150 housing is 2-3/4" OD with 1/2" thick wall. I noticed on a scout D44 axle it was only 3/8" thick.

Stock dakota width is 63" WMS front and 65" WMS rear. The front axle I built is 61-1/2" and the rear dana 60 I have will be 63-1/2".

I'm going with a leaf spring suspension and using stock leaf springs from an 84 Chevy Blazer. I chose those because they were in so many years and models if I need a lifted spring chances are I can shoot down to the junk yard and pick some up for a decent price. Also I got the set for 20 bucks and a buddy gave me another set. They have a military wrap on them also. I'm also using a 79 F250 steering box because it had a rack on it.

What I have done is the front crossmember is finished and just about completely welded up, the rear spring mounts I just finished up welding as well. I made a set of shackles that house a bushing, which is the same bushing that goes in the front of the leaf spring.

Still lots to be done but I'm slowly getting there. Budget is about zero dollars so I'm getting very creative. I'll post some pics of what I have done so far tomorrow.

I have a cummins 4bta that will make its way in there someday(next year maybe???). Just need a tranny and transfer case.

I also have to thank NorCal Dakota because I have looked as his build so much its pretty much burned into my mind.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/th_IMG_0367.jpg (http://s975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/?action=view&current=IMG_0367.jpg)
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The main body of the crossmember is made up of 3/8" rectangle tubing 3"x6", then everything else is either 1/4" or 3/16". I still have some work to do on the shackles, my old flux core welder was having some serious issues, I have since upgraded a little bit. Still have flux core but I have a hobart 135 that seems to do the job with multiple passes, much better then the cambel hausfeld and my old 220 buzz box.

I like how you tuck the shackle up into the frame, that is something I want to redo on mine to keep it lower.

Thanks, I got all the welding finished up on them and they turned out great. I kinda went at that with not much of a plan but it turned out to be about what I wanted. Everything was made from 1/4" and beveled heavy so I could get a good weld on it. Looks to be stout anyways.

Finally hit the point of no return. Cut the crossmemeber out last night. Still have to cut out the back control arm mounts then im home free. I'm curious to see what ride height is going to be with those stock chevy springs. Another reason why I used those springs is they come in alot of different spring rates, straight rates and progressive rates. So when the little diesel does find his way in there it will be easy to get the rate I need.

Looks good so far! can't wait to see more pics!

Any updates?

Not much to update. I have been plowing snow like crazy. I got a set of 79 F250 knuckles so I can work on having a high steer setup. Budget is keeping the process slow but that should change here soon. Im thinking of maybe sending the knuckles out to that guy on ebay. Nice heavy duty looking pieces and its got a puzzle lock deal to help lock the arm into the knuckle. Its $250 for both arms, machine service, stud kits and free return shipping. I was going to make my own but by the time I buy the reamers and everything I'm gonna have a bit of money into it.

Got my body lift about off and my axle is sitting in place on some jack stands. Seems to be about a 3" lift with the springs being inverted a couple inches. Not sure what to do about tires but I have a friend that said he can get a good deal on cooper tires so maybe the STT? Still undecided on what size. 35" or 37". Whatever I can find.

Well I have finally stopped plowing snow for awhile. That was a good winter if your making cash while the snow is flying. Just wanted to give an update. I sent my pass side knuckle out to that guy on ebay that puts the puzzle lock deal in the knuckle and I decided to only get the one arm. What made me decide that is my buddy just happened to mention ackerman theory when we were working on his race car. I obsessed over that for awhile and since this was going to be a daily driver there was really no reason to have my tie rod up there and it was going against the ackerman theory if I would have done the high steer because the high steer arms are pointed inward for wheel clearance.

So I got my knuckle getting machined for the pass side arm, I got spring perches, top plates and some 5/8" U-bolts, just bought the DOM tubing and tie rod ends for my steering. I havent touched anything for about 2 months now but I'm gonna start to have a little time and money on my hands so hopefully she will be up going here soon. Still have to figure out my sway bar situation but thats for a later date. Going to head to the junk yard tomorrow and see if I cant find a set of 2-4" lift springs off a chevy so I can get a little more then the 3" of lift I have now with the stock springs I have.

Slowly making some progress but the parts are starting to be collected again. I got new spicer ball joints, brake calipers, wheel bearings, seals, rotors and I just ordered up some rims and tires. Ended up getting some Mickey Thompson 315/75r16 MTZs on 16x10 8 lug dick cepek DC-2 wheels. That should get some fire under my ass to get working on my truck again. Ended up getting some new leaf springs from summit, they are 2" lift springs and ended up giving me about 6" of lift. Maybe a bit to much but I'll just pull springs until she sags a little more. Bonus about it tho when the little cummins decides to mount itself in there I'll have some springs to bring it back up.

I got gas hooked up to my welder finally and found a good place to get steel in the process so things should speed up a little bit. Just happy I dont have to run flux core anymore.

Hopefully I'll get some time this week or weekend to at least get the front wheels on and my steering box in.

I got a question that someone can hopefully fill me in on. I am about to mount my steering box (ended up going with the 79 F250 box) and I plan to use the stock pitman arm. My question is my steering box ends up being 1-1/2" back from draglink being in line with my tie rod. Will this pose any problems or is it an incorrect way of doing this if i proceed this way? Im running a crossover steering setup so it will not be interfering with anything else. Thanks

Dan

It is not optimal, but what it ultimately comes down to is the rest of the suspension/steering design. If it binds or hits anything during suspension travel, then that is a definite problem. But it is better to have the drag-link perpendicular with the chassis.

Well I got my steering box mounted and got my box moved farther forward then i originally thought, ended up with about a 3/4" difference. Im waiting on my reamer and the ford shock mounts I ordered.

Got my inner C and leaf spring perches welded up. Used the old buzz box for those welds. Just got the axle sand blasted and got some paint on it yesterday. Just have to mount the shock mounts to it whenever I figure out what I need. Im really hoping to have it moving around this weekend. Went to summit and grabbed a 3/4" DD shaft and a flaming river steering joint so the box is now connected to my steering wheel. If anyone needs to know the 79 F250 box is 3/4"-36 spline.

Stayed up all night so I finally got something done. I still need some little things here and there to finish up the front but it not far off from being done. I'm hoping the springs will settle in a little but only time will tell.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/DansPicsSAS009.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/DansPicsSAS008.jpg
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I don't think they'll settle IMHO. They're already flat so they'd be "inverted" if they "settled" anymore. Just my $.02.

Yea Ive been fighting with myself over that trying to convince myself they will. I have a set of stock 85 Blazer springs sitting that may be test fitted on there to see if that will work most of those sit inverted. Just a little to high for me. If I would have been able to figure out the lift I was gonna get I may have went spring under but I'm kinda stuck now because my steering turned out great. If all else fails bigger tires later on.

It's a pretty kick ass build though. Not my first choice of wheels, I think some all black steelies would look bitchin'... :flipoff2: I gotta do my '99 sometime, when I have money. :rolleyes: I freaking HATE IFS.

Nice job! What gears/locker are you gonna run?

No locker yet I think the 60 rear I have has limited slip and 4.10 gears.

nice looking dak

Well I put those blazer springs in and it dropped about 2". Looks a lot better. Up travel is gonna be limited because of my drag link but I'm sure I'll get enough to make me happy tho. I'll post some pics later.

Well I put those blazer springs in and it dropped about 2". Looks a lot better. Up travel is gonna be limited because of my drag link but I'm sure I'll get enough to make me happy tho. I'll post some pics later.

Post them now damnit! :flipoff2::flipoff2:

EDIT: I forgot my flipoff damnit. :blackflipoff:

Well here are some pics of where its sitting now. Everything got a lot closer. I have to see if I have enough up travel room without it hitting my drag link or the bellhousing on my tranny with the yoke.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/DansPicsSAS013.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/DansPicsSAS016.jpg

Nice Dak, I'd like to do one a lot like this someday, except 4door.

Kinda looks like those springs are gonna be super shitty on the street for you, but IDK

The spring rate is pretty soft on them and how they are sitting inverted and trying to pull the shackle forward and lift the truck seems to be a pretty effective way to increase that spring rate. Its just a bit stiffer in the front then the rear using my patented sitonbumper meter. The best thing about this if I don't like how it rides I'll change it.

Any updates?

X2 is it complete and driving?


I have some little questions if you dont mind.. lol!:homer:
Where did you buy those spicer balljoints? i've been looking all over!
What ujoint did you use to convert the dodge steering shaft to the f250 box?

Not quite done yet havent had a whole lot of time. Ended up using the new leafs I bought so it sits a little higher but it looks alright. Axle is bolted up tight and everything is looking good. Drove it around the field once. Still have to do the exhaust, get some shocks, and hook a sway bar up somehow. The rear I'm going to do shackle flip and I'm ditching the Dana 60 for a cab and chassis 14 bolt just for the fact that it is the right width from the factory at 63.5" WMS. Hoping to pick the 14 bolt up tomorrow.

The spicer ball joints I got from Hovis auto parts and I think Raybestos is the same quality if not the same part. I had one spicer I think the rest were Raybestos. The Steering U joint I got was from summit, it was a flaming river brand 3/4" DD to 3/4"-36 spline and I got a piece of 3/4" DD shaft that slid right up into the stock intermediate shaft on the Dakota.

Oh yeah I have the power steering lines all hooked up. Very easy to turn the wheel. Ended up cutting the stock dakota line and flaring into a fitting that would adapt to the F250 box. I thought I was going to have to change the power steering pump because of the rack and pinion but I replaced the pump not to long ago with an auto zone one and it had the same part number as the older dakota with the steering box so I think I'm good there.

Got my 14 bolt today. Ordered up perches, plates, u bolts and all the good stuff to get it mounted. Also ordered a Dana 70 tone ring to fit up to the carrier. As I'm waiting on that stuff Ill get the rear shackle flip done and get the axle all cleaned up and get it ready to go in. Also ordered the brake brackets from ruffstuffspecialties.com for the cab and chassis axle. Hopefully it will be a productive weekend.

Right on man, keep going and throw us a bone! (More pics dude:flipoff2:)

I got a question about the 14 bolt I picked up. WMS is 62-3/4" I was under the impression the cab and chassis is 63-1/2"? I believe the drums went on the back of the hub but I'm not positive because they didn't come on the axle. Also I pulled the cover and noticed some teeth on the ring gear to be chipped on the very outside edge of the gear. I am assuming this will cause me no issue because the pinion does not even run there but I just wanted to get another opinion. Seems like alot of crud was running around in there but the gears look ok other then those chipped teeth and the bearings may get replace after I inspect them a bit more. The ones that support the carrier seems like some crud got in there and put some very small imperfections in the surface of the cup not sure if it will be an issue but I''l look at them a bit closer tomorrow.

Not quite done yet havent had a whole lot of time. Ended up using the new leafs I bought so it sits a little higher but it looks alright. Axle is bolted up tight and everything is looking good. Drove it around the field once. Still have to do the exhaust, get some shocks, and hook a sway bar up somehow. The rear I'm going to do shackle flip and I'm ditching the Dana 60 for a cab and chassis 14 bolt just for the fact that it is the right width from the factory at 63.5" WMS. Hoping to pick the 14 bolt up tomorrow.

The spicer ball joints I got from Hovis auto parts and I think Raybestos is the same quality if not the same part. I had one spicer I think the rest were Raybestos. The Steering U joint I got was from summit, it was a flaming river brand 3/4" DD to 3/4"-36 spline and I got a piece of 3/4" DD shaft that slid right up into the stock intermediate shaft on the Dakota.

Oh yeah I have the power steering lines all hooked up. Very easy to turn the wheel. Ended up cutting the stock dakota line and flaring into a fitting that would adapt to the F250 box. I thought I was going to have to change the power steering pump because of the rack and pinion but I replaced the pump not to long ago with an auto zone one and it had the same part number as the older dakota with the steering box so I think I'm good there.


i just cut and welded the two steering shafts together when i mounted my F250 steering box. no problems yet.

and x2 on the very easy to turn. mine turns like a dream! even with 38.5's and the original steering pump. must be the design of these boxes.

Took the bed off my truck today so I could get to the shackle hangers. Got those all apart and the hangers off the frame. I think i'm just going to get a set of front spring hangers off another dakota for the rear and then build my shackles as the stock ones look pretty flimsy.

Washed the housing inside and out yesterday and painted it. Got the stock axle out of the truck today and the sway bar mounts tacked to my 14 bolt. I'll have to wait till monday to get my hangers and my other parts should be here this week hopefully. I still have to get rotors and brake calipers for the rear. I'm thinking about getting those calipers on ebay, they are eldorado style calipers that are brand new for 110 bucks free shipping for a set. I think they even come with pads. Not a bad deal and I think cheap calipers will prolly be just fine because of how overdone this brake system is now for this truck. Hopefully the master can push enough fluid.

Well I ended up checking out those calipers on ebay they are the small ones so no go on that. I got a set from advanced the only bummer is they dont come with the ebrake stuff like levers and springs but thats no big deal I can figure something out. Still waiting on my stuff from ruff stuff so that kinda holding me up at the moment. Got my carrier machined to accept my tone ring so I just have to drill a hole in the housing and weld a plate on to hold the sensor and hopefully I should be done with that part here soon. After I get the tone ring setup in the 14bolt I'll post some pics.

Nice Dakota.

Got the tone ring and sensor pretty much setup. I still have a little bit of time on the plate that holds the sensor but it is pretty much cosmetic. Here are some pics.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/DansPicsSAS034.jpg
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Hey man been dying waiting for an update! Feed my addiction!

I'd missed this thread until today. Very nice work and easily my favorite leaf sprung Dakota SAS.

Where in PA are you? I'm down to Rausch Creek and that neighborhood pretty often, lots of friends from Right Coast all over down there too.

Since winter time hit I haven't had a free moment to do anything but sleep and make money. Now I have cash to finish my project tho. As of now I have done a shackle flip in the rear got the perches welded up and mounted up to my leaf springs. Just bought most of the stuff to finish up the rear brakes. Got new wheel bearings and seals and studs. Putting all new bearings in the differential. Got my conversion U joint for my drive shaft 1330-1350. Got levers for my caddy calipers from blackbirds custom trucks and modified them to work with my original e brake cables. I'll take some pictures of where I'm at tomorrow or over the weekend. Hopefully I'll have the weekend to get about everything finished up. Got to take a trip to summit and get the rest of the parts as well.

I am about 5 miles from the Grove City outlets on 79. What is Right Coast?

Oh yeah I got myself a new Miller 211 welder also. What an awesome machine.

Well I finally got some time to work on my truck again. Got all new bearings in the rear diff now and my speed sensor works like a champ. Ive been running into some really stupid issues with the rear brakes driving me crazy. First was the brackets for the disc brake conversion were bent wrong but the guys from ruff stuff made it right really quick. Then the calipers I ordered from advanced were a problem. Well just the right one. It had the left handed e brake shaft in it. I ordered another same problem. I ordered one more and it was correct. What a PITA. What is left to do is just install the rear brakes and make shock brackets for the axle. Make sure my front shock mounts are 100% and weld them solid and hook up brake lines to the front calipers as well. Damn list is finally getting smaller. I never put new carrier bearings on my front axle so I am going to do that after I get it rolling. I'm gonna take it to a friend that has a lift. I also need to figure out a front sway bar.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota1.jpg

you really have zero need for a swaybar with leaf springs all the way around. I've never run one on my coil sprung SAS Dakota and have rarely if ever wanted for one....

I did not know that. I have the little rear sway bar hooked up. I was just gonna run it first with no sway bar to see how it was. That is good to hear. Thanks

I did not know that. I have the little rear sway bar hooked up. I was just gonna run it first with no sway bar to see how it was. That is good to hear. Thanks

I never ran one on mine when it had leafs. Higher pressure shocks helped the ride too.

Thats awesome. On a good note a good friend of mine that builds custom suspension for motorcycle atv and pretty much whatever someone brings him says hes all for building me some shocks for me so that could be interesting. Hes even got a shock dyno so I'm sure something will work out.

Any more update and pictures.

Well funny you ask. As of Saturday the project did pretty much a complete 180. Its gonna end up being a bit more heavy duty. I acquired a 92 w250 cummins 5 speed. No bed and the cab was a bit on the rusted side. ANYWAYS. Wheelbase is identical to the dakota. I have to patch the frame just a little bit where the fuel tank was sitting then weld up some body mounts. Turns out the frame is the same width also. All that work I did originally on my dak wasnt for nothing anyways. I know exactly what I'm looking for now. My diesel dakota isnt far off from able to be driven anyways. I am going to narrow the front axle 2.25" on each side to get it down to the dakotas width and the rear axle is already 65" so that is ready to go.

are you sure the position of the cummins in the W frame is compatible with the dakota body? i think your firewall and the #6 cylinder will be fighting for the same space.

the dakota frame is also stiffer than the W series frame.

Well i originally planned on a 4bt conversion and the backside of that engine in relation to the tranny is the same as the 6bt and there has been alot of those conversions so I dont think that is gonna be to big of an issue. There was a guy that put a 6bt in his dakota and I dont think he had to cut the firewall. I have to put body mounts on the frame so I can pretty much place it where ever I need it. I did notice the w frame wasnt as stiff as my dakota frame but I dont think that will cause any issues. I'm sure there will some problems to overcome but I'm sure they will all be sorted out one way or another. I'm gonna try to get the cab set on the frame this weekend hopefully to see how its all gonna fit up together. If I need room I'll build room. It a project thats part of the fun.

Yzeffer:

I wish you luck with the cummins stuff and when I did the hemi i thought it was a nightmare and bad dream good luck and keep us inform with info and update.

Aloha Fireahi

Thanks. One thing I did notice right off the bat as soon as I got the cab off my dakota is the getrag tranny has the shifter in the front side the nv3500 has it in the back side. Its like 7" difference from the edge of the bellhousing. I think I have just enough room to trim inside the body to get the shifter up thru the floor then I just have to bend the shifter up and get it in the right spot.

I got a cummins frame ready for the dakota body so i can start mocking everything up. Waiting on a digital angle gauge that I ordered so i can get the front diff narrowed. I'm going to cut both sides 2-1/4" to get it to the stock dakota width and keep everything lined up. Crossover steering is also gonna happen cause I don't want to do all this work and have it wonder down the highway.

Well I got the Dakota body set down on the w250 chassis. Pretty good fit. Have a small issue with the shifter being in the front side of the tranny but now that i have it on there I can see it wont be to bad to deal with. Wish it was an NV4500 for the simple fact that the shifter is farther back but this is what I got and this tranny is still very tight and it shifts nice. There was some nice goober welds on the shifter too.Cutting the axle today most likely wont weld it until I get ride height set so I can get the proper caster.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota020.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota021.jpg
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http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota023.jpg

Well got my front axle narrowed today. Way easier second time around. Cut 2-1/4" of each side to give me a 63" WMS to WMS. I started to reassemble everything but my arms were beat from all the grinding and hammering. I'll get it set under the truck tomorrow and get some pics and hopefully be able to roll it back into the garage. I'm mocking up everything and later on the frame is getting sandblasted so I'm reusing all my old parts at the moment. Crossover steering is gonna be a pita, from what i read you have to have like a 4" lift to make it work. I don't think I will be lifting it at all sooooo that could be a fun challenge.

Got the axle under it. Deff don't need any lift. This truck sits very high in the back also I'm going to pull the factory 6" blocks and work from there to level it out. I'm going to start putting body mounts on the frame tomorrow. Coming along pretty good so far.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota027.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota029.jpg
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/yzeffer/Dakota030.jpg

Yo:

You must got some muscles to lift the cab to truck.. Looking good...
Keep sending the info this might be faster then axle swap hahaha

Wyatt

It was pretty hillbilly the way I got the cab up off the frame. I used two of those self standing porch swing frames and a bunch of heavy duty ratchet straps. Didnt even have to pull the front clip of the old dodge. I just got it up high enough and wheeled the chassis out from underneath. Did the same for the Dakota only it was a bit easier cause the front crossmember unbolts and you only have to lift it up a little.

Got the body mounts cut off the Dakota and cleaned up and bolted to the cab just getting it level and straight with the chassis and i can tack them in. Ended up being lifted a tad more then I wanted it but oh well. Maybe bigger tire down the rd. I have 12" front the top of the tire to the fender opening. I think Im going to remake the stock crossmember for the tranny cause it hangs down like 4" below frame. Really no reason for it to be down that far but I'll do that after I get it on the road.

Updates? :homer:

Not a ton of updates to report started working again and it slows the project down a bit but no matter its moving forward. Have to do a little cab modification on the rear and front. I want the cab to sit on the frame a bit closer but the floor in the back hits the frame. So Im going to trim the floor out a little bit and let the body come down 2".
My front axle is about 3" forward and I was only looking for about 1 to 1-1/2"forward so Im gonna trim the firewall a little bit to let the engine set in a little farther which gives me a little more radiator and intercooler room as well as push the shifter into the cab giving me some more clearance. All as to be expected. Nothing that cannot be tackled.

Got some updates on the truck. Got it lowered as much as possible onto the frame and the cab mounts should be in there final locations. Just have heavy tacks on them just incase. Cut the firewall and heater box and got the engine to sit in about two inches in. Its turning out pretty good so far. Bed is sitting on the chassis just have to mock up some mounts for it and all the stuff should be done and outta the way. Progress should pick up a bit. Got into the union operating heavy equipment so having a lil money to back the project is a big bonus. Just ordered my pitman arm and gonna build an arm for the pass side knuckle for the crossover steering.

when you give up on this thing i will come buy it and do it right.:laughing:

no seriously before you waste anymore time or money sell it to me:flipoff2:

Im still suprised it fit in there !
good work:grinpimp:

Im still suprised it fit in there !
good work:grinpimp:

if you look closely he hasn't gotten it to fit.:shaking:

its still a pile of pieces. i could set my dakota cab on a peterbuilt chassis that dosen't mean i got it to fit.:laughing:

Howzit:

Backyards are where dreams are made and built.

Aloha

Fireahi

Keep up the good work and hope to see the running pictures.