I bought one of the new Sumo mounts. My motor was twisting too much and causing the tc output to bottom on the x-member.

The mount is beefy and solved my problems, however the overall fit sucked. Heres my beefs:

1) The sleeve in the bushing was too wide so it splayed the mounting ears...out came the tools.

2) The base was warped frome the heat of welding on the tabs...out came out the tabs again.

3) The holes for the frame bolts were way oversized, instead of slotted. The big holes, holes however, didnt allow enough movement for install. Out came the tools AGAIN.

4) Minor..but the part was unpainted, surface rust was coming. Hardware was hit and miss, different grades, oversized washers etc.

Final alignment took a 5 foot piece of tubing and a lot of stank. The mount increased motor vibes, but not too much. The install was easier than making it from scratch, but not a quality bolt on unit. If your going to do married toy tcs, it is a big improvement over the stock mounts for locating the whole mess. Great idea... just wish the quality was there.

soooo what else did you have to do Thursday ,except get your ass to the con???..................:D

Exactly...what should have taken 20 minutes took 2.5 hours, enough time to make me miss a day of wheelin!

Isn't there something like a 1970 mopar product that works? I'll have to do a search again..

I've got no idea on that one....anyone?

I can't believe I'm doing this one..

http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=offroadsuzuki&Number=862124

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/28-653331-Mmount1.JPG (http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=offroadsuzuki&Number=651735&Forum=offroadsuzuki&Words=engine%20mount&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=3&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=651735&Search=true#Post651735)

here's a pic and more of a disussion on the mounts(click the pic its a link)

I used a Tracker motor mount. It's bigger than a stock one anyway.:D

Thats a nice bargain setup! I dont know it could use it even it it made your engine a hair lower, my ex. manifold is already REALLY close to the frame.

Here is what I used

http://www.roadlessgear.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RGL&Product_Code=RG241&Category_Code=E

Fit was good, and the mounts are beefy.

Bahaha I posted this crap over 2 years ago.... on that board, at that point the only thing anyone could say was "why". That was before i saw the red star and move on....

http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/lmm1.jpg
http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/lmm2.jpg
http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/lmm3.jpg
http://www.yager.net/zukin/new/lmm4.jpg

heres a few more shots... pics show the small washer i tacked on to prevent the mount from spining (factory zuke has a small "nub") Total install including fab work was like 30 min...

Install is cake, redrill cast mount to 1/2" trim off ~1/2" of stud so it will clear the block... weld on small washer..

There is soposed to be a mount that is the SAME but fliped to allow the interlock tab to work as intended on the Pass. Side. Never seen it and havnt had a prob on that side so....

I spec'd mine from an 82' dodge 150 truck w/ 6cyl... cost $9 w/ tax...

Sean if you clearenced the frame you could loose that trick hole in the hood.............................................. .:D

Originally posted by zukipuke
Bahaha I posted this crap over 2 years ago.... on that board, at that point the only thing anyone could say was "why".

Well, it was tech info, thats why :p :D

I don't know what the Sumo mounts look like, but I have seen the Petroworks mounts, and WOW!! They have been refining the desing on the mounts for some time now, and they have finally locked up the design. I saw a number of them built up, and they are the best lookiing mount I have seen, bar none.

They are a fully enclosed rubber mount, and are a simple bolt in item. so no more worries about tearing the mounts, and they do not transmit vibration like the spring bushings some companies are trying to sell as motor mounts.

What can I say, I am impressed by these mounts.

I rode in a 16 valver the other day that had a set of prototypes in it, and it had no extra vibrations at all. If anything it was smoother.

I should point ot that I have not installed these myself, so I'll let someone else pipe up about the install.

They are brand new, so you will have to ask about them.

p.s. I think they have them for the 1300, and both 1600s.

-Wayne

This topic is funny becuae last time i checked my oil we noticed the air cleaner connector to the airbox was actualy streched so far it was torn. I thought the fend got yanked out when i flopped it a few weeks ago but it made me consider the motor mounts. The passenger side mount iis completley out of the little steel box sitting on top of the rubber :D Pretty cool.. Anyway i just ordered a set of them Valiant ones, they are 5.90 a piece :P

$5.90 apiece is somewhat cheaper than $45 for the "turbo"ones or the $38 for the old style stocker...........:D even old folks can learn

Roadless gear motor mounts look like t-case mounts

should have gone with trail toughs mounts. they fit right up first time and seem to be quite beefy.

Originally posted by rotozuk
I don't know what the Sumo mounts look like,

-Wayne
here ya go :D
http://www.asianautopartsofaz.com/images/motormounts-big.jpg (http://www.asianautopartsofaz.com/suzuki/engine.html)

those look pretty sweet.

I was tearing those motor mounts faster than I could save up pennies for a new set. As soon as I chained them in I haven't had a problem since. The trick is to get a piece off chain that just fits over the studs and then get them very tight. At the same time I threw a new Tranny mount underneath.
Yeah I know its an old trick but there might be someone out there that can use it.

Originally posted by ghost dog
I was tearing those motor mounts faster than I could save up pennies for a new set. As soon as I chained them in I haven't had a problem since. The trick is to get a piece off chain that just fits over the studs and then get them very tight. At the same time I threw a new Tranny mount underneath.
Yeah I know its an old trick but there might be someone out there that can use it.

That's what I did and it only cost $1.50. Went top grade with vinyl coated chain. :D

Controldude u are d man...............:D

I'm still waiting for mine, won them at SUZICAN in july. Was great that "MudLite" put on such an event. We all had a great time, thanks to Mudlite and everyone who help put this together. There were lots of vendor prizes from ppl like RRO, Davesport, Breeze Ind. Hawke Suzuki, Trail Tough and so on, a few things from Asian Auto, including Sumo mounts , but seein as how were talkin October now and i won them in July, It's lookin like i'll never see my Sumo Engine Mounts. So fuck this crap, I'm gonna build a mid plate and front plate, self aligning, make it way easier to re and re my engine or tranny. Plus 100% torque transfer. The best part is i'll get it when i promise it to myself. Enough of this shit, gotta build my own stuff it looks like, what else is new, want something done and done right............. you know the rest. Buyin parts sucks tailpipe. And it's too bad cuz i spend so much time buildin shit. But like i said, when you build your own, you get it when you want it ! :flipoff2:

PS Hey Scawfish, i bet my engine plates wont take much longer to install than those mounts you had to rework ! :D

Doh!

Originally posted by bobaki
Controldude u are d man...............:D

That's Mr. Controldude :flipoff2:

not old enough!........:D

What a pain in the ass.... A note on if you buy the Plymouth mounts. The bolts are 1/2 inch so you have to pull the entire friggin mount off in order to drill it out. SO a 15 minute project is now gonna take up half my evening taking all this garbage off.

Originally posted by mikrosilakhan
The bolts are 1/2 inch so you have to pull the entire friggin mount off in order to drill it out. SO a 15 minute project is now gonna take up half my evening

If ya woulda read all the good threads on those mounts(like the one I posted) you would have saw that it said the mounts had to be drilled out:flipoff2: :p

Originally posted by CROWHORSE on 01/15/02 on the ORC BBS
They are Dodge mounts and all that is needed to be done is to drill the metal bracket hole out to 1/2" and cut the lower stud on the mount so it can clear the frame

;) :D

Originally posted by DougO


If ya woulda read all the good threads on those mounts(like the one I posted) you would have saw that it said the mounts had to be drilled out:flipoff2: :p

;) :D


What????? Are you you serious? unbolt 3 bolts drill the thing out to 1/2" and never sieze the bolt so they come out easier next time... ok like 10 min..... but wait you can paint it so its not rust color......

Well i guess that might be a reason for me to spend $45 on a sotck'ish mount, if i were incompetant and didnt have a drill of any sort......with a 3/8 shank 1/2" bit......THEN and only then might that be a reason to NOT spend (i guess were down to $6.00 and change for a vailient mount) some $ to do the swap...

The metal is SO soft you might beable to whiddle it away with a knife.....

Sign me up on the "pay more less work" list.... $30 to drill a 1/2" hole....... damn im in the wrong bizz......

-yag


whoops quotes in wrong spot.....