96' F350 crew 4x4 tow rig.

Open deck hauler, pulling a mild CJ. If I get the my other Ford project done I'll probably pull that too but thats far off.

Question: Is there a weight that is typical of needing/using a weight distributing hitch?

With my Dad (primary person I learned from) we used the wdh with the F150 just about all the time unless one of the car haulers was empty. Then it was hitch and go. Or one of the single axle utility trailers same thing hitch and go all the time.

With the F250/F350's, we would pull 5k/6k without, but if in the high end of that range and higher we would put the bars on.

I haven't weighted it but I think my CJ and the trailer are maybe 5k or so and currently I have no wdh setup. Just brakes on both axles and go.

Thoughts? Is it a must all the time? Pull better? :homer:

Been pulling it alot lately and can see myself once I rebuild the engine/tranny pulling more weight and frequently.

Thanks very much for any advise or input.

For your 1 ton truck It's not necessary to use a weight distribution hitch for a load of only that weight. If you were pulling two rigs it would be a necessity. Alot of it is also dictated by the rating on the bumper pull hitch. Even the new 2500 chevrolet trucks with a v-5 hitch are only rated for 7500 lbs/1000lbs tongue weight for a weight carrying. Anything about that you need to use a wdh setup as with one they are rated for much more. So in your case if your stick to that kind of weight with a 1 ton I would not bother. If i was towing it with a half ton it would be a necessity. Alot is dictated by the rating on the hitch, most hitches have two ratings, one for weight distributing and one for weight carrying.

You should be fine w/o a wdh with that setup.

You should be fine w/o a wdh with that setup.


I agree, no need for a wd hitch

I pull 10K plus on my F350 with no WD. I don't run the factory hitch though..


:usa:

I have never used a WD hitch, and I've towed with everything from a 53 Studebaker p/u to my current Dodge without issue. This is with a single car trailer and up to 6k lb vehicle on it.
Travis..

X3.

Also go with what feels good. I currently pull with a 1/2 ton. I *need* to use a WD hitch to tow my junk around. The rear springs are just too soft and it was VERY picky on getting the trail rig just right on the trailer. Using the WD hitch brought the rear end up (and/or front end down) and made everything feel more solid.

When I've towed with bigger trucks in the past, I didn't every feel the need for a WD hitch even when my trailer rig was a bloated pig.

Make sure your hitch can handle the tongue weight in a load carrying setup and you should be fine. The WDH does make things a little more pleasant though, not that it should really matter in your case.

I wouldn't bother, personally. I've pulled up to 10k on my 1/2 ton with no need, and we routinely pulled a 24-28k# bumper pull behind our one ton with no issues.

I can see the need with long encloseds, but for a regular trailer I don't.

Definitely helps with handling and such, but if you have a big enough truck, small enough trailer, and stiff enough springs, you can get by.

With my Dodge or my buddy's Excursion, a single rig with no WDH on the trailer would cause the front end to float, so handling and braking was poor, especially in wet conditions.

With my 3/4 ton av it did ok, but the ride sucked and it was bouncy, the WDH really settles it down. Of course that is with a 9k trailer.

F-350 towing a CJ I would skip it, but would consider it if you were towing a fullsize.

You do not need the WDH. Would be a waist at those weights. I would spend the money on airbags first. I love mine, keeps the bounce out of the rear when pulling.

I've got an older 3/4 ton Dodge and tow around 8000#. I don't need a WD hitch ever -- BUt if I am going over a hundred miles I will hook it up. It makes it tow a little nicer and is worth the hassle of hooking it up. If I am just going around town it isn't worth the hassle....

Thanks for all the replies.

The heaviest I towed was a 77' F250, wish I had one then as the front end of the tow rig was light.


Guess I'll keep the wdh and use it when I start towing the other Ferd around.

Thanks.

I would sell the WDH and invest in a set of air bags with a compressor and remote control

as said make sure your hitch is up to the job. I've seen many class 2/3 hitchs on bigger trucks because someone didn't know better.

Just like yager said, make sure the hitch itself is rated for what your towing. I sell new Chevys, and just sold a 2500hd Duramax to a guy using it to pull his 12,000 lb boat. He does not use a weight distribution hitch. The factory tow hitch without weight distribution is only rated for a tongue load of 1000lb and 7500 lbs of pulling weight. It is being upgraded to a Curt Manufacturing 18,000 lb/ 1800 lb tongue weight even without weight distribution.

You know I checked the ball and ball mount but didn't read the sticker on the reciever.

Good point and will check tomorrow.

Thanks.

This thread is exactly why I quit coming in here. At 5k, you are at the limit of the hitch, if I remember right, and the hitch hasn't been changed out. For as many of you guys that scream about more triangulation, you sure as fuck don't care if you drop the trailer off of the back of your truck. :rolleyes:

When you don't use a WD hitch, you hang all of the weight off of the rear two bolts. Using a WD hitch spreads the load over all of the bolts. It's got nothing to do with sway control. Sway control is just a bonus from having the weight where it wants to be. WD hitch put's the weight where it wants to be, and carries the load on the frame like the manufacture intended. Air bags just lift the ass of your truck up. Maybe act as a sway bar if you plumb them seperate.

Don't believe me? Ask anyone that has torn the frame on their Dodge.

I have always thought a WDH was for tongue weight relief....unless I missed it I did not even see bl's tongue weight. Although possible I can't see his setup having to much tongue weight unless loaded incorrectly. If you are able to adjust your tongue weight by load placement, then you would be acomplishing nothing with a WDH.

Also using a WDH is not going to change the number of stress points on the truck. Frames that break from a 6000lb load are probably from shock stress...things like trailer bump or suspension bottoming out with to much tongue weight.

WDH usually extends the ball further behind the vehicle causing more squat before load bars are pulled in place.

You should make sure everything you are using is rated for the weight placed on it.....then if you have an issue when your loaded, utilize some of the things mentioned in previous post to correct the issue.

Just my two cents....good luck

One thing not mentioned above that I have also used to take some of the shock issues off the truck and trailer is this:

489466

I have always thought a WDH was for tongue weight relief.......

You are misinformed. See Fyrman's post above. It's all about leverage and where the center of that weight rests within the length of the frame of the tow vehicle.

Most who claim to "not need" a W/D hitch understand nothing about it. :shaking:

I have always thought a WDH was for tongue weight relief....unless I missed it I did not even see bl's tongue weight. Although possible I can't see his setup having to much tongue weight unless loaded incorrectly. If you are able to adjust your tongue weight by load placement, then you would be acomplishing nothing with a WDH.

Also using a WDH is not going to change the number of stress points on the truck. Frames that break from a 6000lb load are probably from shock stress...things like trailer bump or suspension bottoming out with to much tongue weight.

WDH usually extends the ball further behind the vehicle causing more squat before load bars are pulled in place.

You should make sure everything you are using is rated for the weight placed on it.....then if you have an issue when your loaded, utilize some of the things mentioned in previous post to correct the issue.

Just my two cents....good luck

One thing not mentioned above that I have also used to take some of the shock issues off the truck and trailer is this:

489466

Did you do a simple search of frymans posts in the towing forum before you disagreed with him and threw your .02 in? You might before you correct him again. Ive been towing stuff for about 30 years and wish that him and trailerguy would add more input.

You are misinformed. See Fyrman's post above. It's all about leverage and where the center of that weight rests within the length of the frame of the tow vehicle.

Did I not say to "center the weight" with load placement.

Most who claim to "not need" a W/D hitch understand nothing about it. :shaking:

I did not say he did not need a WDH....I said get everything to specs and then evaluate the load. I am guessing you would use your
WDH to go pic up your lawn mower.

Did you do a simple search of frymans posts in the towing forum before you disagreed with him and threw your .02 in? You might before you correct him again. Ive been towing stuff for about 30 years and wish that him and trailerguy would add more input.


I do not have to research Frymans post to read directions and manufactures recomendations......And I did not disagree with him except not understanding what two bolts he was talking about....my 95 F-350 factory receiver has 6 bolts...If fryman wants to disagree with anything I have said, it would behoove everyone looking at this post including me for him to do so, to get the facts straight and agree or agree to disagree.

I own a WDH and its neater than sliced bread when needed but is tits on a boar hog useless when its not

As far as your post it contributes nothing except a post count you might want to think about that before you post again.
Instead you might want to use your 30 years towing experience to give real life situations and solutions you have had.


FYI: This is from my WDH instructions:"The purpose of a weight distributing hitch is to remove excessive weight from the tow vehicle's rear axle and distribute it to the front wheels and the trailer wheels. This may also be achieved by proper weight distribution when possible."


.

I have an after market hitch on my F350 dually. Admittedly not your standard tow rig, but it reccommends wdh above 10k. I believe its rated to 18k. With my trailer scaling at around 6k my truck rides better without the WDH as it puts weight on the the really stiff rear springs.

Above 5k is probably a really good recommendation for a 1/2 truck, but not neccisarly accurate for all trucks.

Above 5k is probably a really good recommendation for a 1/2 truck, but not neccisarly accurate for all trucks.

Search for the guy that overloaded his brand new Dodge one ton with the hitch rated at 5K.


I'll play nice. Your linkage.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=617194&highlight=factory+dodge+hitch+overloaded

I do not have to research Frymans post to read directions and manufactures recomendations......And I did not disagree with him except not understanding what two bolts he was talking about....my 95 F-350 factory receiver has 6 bolts...If fryman wants to disagree with anything I have said, it would behoove everyone looking at this post including me for him to do so, to get the facts straight and agree or agree to disagree.


FYI: This is from my WDH instructions:"The purpose of a weight distributing hitch is to remove excessive weight from the tow vehicle's rear axle and distribute it to the front wheels and the trailer wheels. This may also be achieved by proper weight distribution when possible."

10 years in the industry as a hitch and wiring specialist. You wanna listen to a guy that uses the end product, or the pencil pusher that wrote the instruction manual for your cheap hitch. And, before you look at the pencil pusher to close; the first hole you drill, when you install a Valley fifth wheel hitch (well known manufacture), in a tube frame Dodge truck, will void the warranty.


And it's the back two bolts. You have six in your hitch. Which holes do you think I was talking about? The holes closest to the rear differential? Here's a hint: The frame at the back of your truck is maybe 1 1/12" wide.



P.S.

Spell my name correctly if you wanna argue.

10 years in the industry as a hitch and wiring specialist. You wanna listen to a guy that uses the end product, or the pencil pusher that wrote the instruction manual for your cheap hitch. And, before you look at the pencil pusher to close; the first hole you drill, when you install a Valley fifth wheel hitch (well known manufacture), in a tube frame Dodge truck, will void the warranty.


And it's the back two bolts. You have six in your hitch. Which holes do you think I was talking about? The holes closest to the rear differential? Here's a hint: The frame at the back of your truck is maybe 1 1/12" wide.



P.S.

Spell my name correctly if you wanna argue.

I do apologize for murdering your name it was unintended.
I never intended to argue with you....And your points are well taken.

I however do not see how they are helping blthomas with his issue or how they apply to any statement I made.


Also you say using a WDH takes the load off of the two bolts.....it may transfer some of the weight to the frame but all the weight is still on the same bolts, nothing has changed from the receiver back to the truck. The same weight relief could have been achieved by weight transfer if possible.


My WDH was crowding $600 which most in the industry would not consider cheap. Usually the only thing I get accused of being cheap on is beer.

If blthomas gross load or tongue weight exceeds his receiver hitch rating or his trailer tongue rating adding a WDH will not change that....his load will still exceed his ratings and technical be an unsafe setup.


I respect your industry tenure as I have also spent time in the business.
But I was simply trying to give blthomas the info needed to make a decision instead of a blanket statement to put a WDH on, when we have very little info on weights and specs.

I do apologize for murdering your name it was unintended.
I never intended to argue with you....And your points are well taken.

I however do not see how they are helping blthomas with his issue or how they apply to any statement I made.


Also you say using a WDH takes the load off of the two bolts.....it may transfer some of the weight to the frame but all the weight is still on the same bolts, nothing has changed from the receiver back to the truck. The same weight relief could have been achieved by weight transfer if possible.


My WDH was crowding $600 which most in the industry would not consider cheap. Usually the only thing I get accused of being cheap on is beer.

If blthomas gross load or tongue weight exceeds his receiver hitch rating or his trailer tongue rating adding a WDH will not change that....his load will still exceed his ratings and technical be an unsafe setup.


I respect your industry tenure as I have also spent time in the business.
But I was simply trying to give blthomas the info needed to make a decision instead of a blanket statement to put a WDH on, when we have very little info on weights and specs.
Physics tells me you are incorrect.

if you just hang something off the back of the hitch, the rear most bolts see most of the force.

With a WDH it uses some of that load to create a rotational moment at the hitch and force the front of the hitch DOWN, loading the front bolts (and hence typically brings the front of the truck frame down and the back of the truck frame up. Hence it releaves some of the force on the rear most bolts and shares is more equally (distributes :idea:!) the towed weight more equally.

I'd get more into it, but my daughter it bouncing on my lap making it very difficult to type. That said, the hitch on my new tow pig is rated for my trail rig and trailer w/o a WDH, time will tell if I use one for longer trips or not for comfort and piece of mind., but for short trips I'll probably hook and go.

Only thing I checked recently was the hithc ball mount, and it's under rated. I have several, but all are at max 5k load.

I have one of those 3 ball style with the balls welded to it, but can't find rating stamped in it.

I haven't pulled the CJ since I typed this.

Only thing I pulled was a coal stove and maybe 800 pounds of coal bagged up on a single axle trailer.

Appreciate the input.

[COLOR="Lime"]
I do not have to research Frymans post to read directions and manufactures recomendations......And I did not disagree with him except not understanding what two bolts he was talking about....my 95 F-350 factory receiver has 6 bolts...If fryman wants to disagree with anything I have said, it would behoove everyone looking at this post including me for him to do so, to get the facts straight and agree or agree to disagree.


Years ago I was curious why my factory receiver had different weight ratings depending on wether or not you are using a WD hitch. A couple of degrees in mechanical engineering come in handy at times like this. A simple free body diagram reveals that without a WD hitch all of the tongue weight is carried by the rear two bolts, as several people have pointed out in this thread. The other four bolts see no vertical load until you put a WD hitch on, then presto, all six bolts are in tension.

I regularly bumper pull over 12,000 lbs using a 2.5" Valley hitch with WD.

As a side note, your anti vibration hitch actually makes things worse by increasing the leverage (moment arm) of the tongue weight (force).

Years ago I was curious why my factory receiver had different weight ratings depending on whether or not you are using a WD hitch. A couple of degrees in mechanical engineering come in handy at times like this. A simple free body diagram reveals that without a WD hitch all of the tongue weight is carried by the rear two bolts, as several people have pointed out in this thread. The other four bolts see no vertical load until you put a WD hitch on, then presto, all six bolts are in tension.

I regularly bumper pull over 12,000 lbs using a 2.5" Valley hitch with WD.

As a side note, your anti vibration hitch actually makes things worse by increasing the leverage (moment arm) of the tongue weight (force).

As I mentioned in my very first post:
blthomas does not have a tongue weight problem the best I can tell....I am talking about load...5000lbs is the figure we were given...how is a WDH going to help with a 5000lb load if his receiver rating exceeds that weight.

I will fall into line on your thinking if you will remove the front bolts on the receiver with out a WDH and stick your finger in it while driving down the road....just to prove to me there is no load on those bolts.....I'll even hold your beer for ya. Could be done less dramatic but not as fun to watch.

Maybe a third M.E. Degree would allow you to figure out that assuming my setup is making things worse would be incorrect. I had a bumper pull that had a case of trailer bump on concrete interstates....the WDH did not help at all....the set up I pictured stopped the side effect of the problem.....I never had a weight problem with the tongue. The problem was not fixed but the undesired side affects where eliminated. The air bag was absorbing the bump instead of the truck frame.

On a side note...we are dealing with a F350 not a 1/2 ton or pacer.......at what weight(tongue and or gross) do you recommend using the WDH from a mechanical engineers prospective? Do I need one for my 4x8 when hauling my 4wheeler?

And is it a blanket statement or should people make sure all their equipment is rated for what they are doing and then make an assessment based on their setup?

As I mentioned in my very first post:
blthomas does not have a tongue weight problem the best I can tell....I am talking about load...5000lbs is the figure we were given...how is a WDH going to help with a 5000lb load if his receiver rating exceeds that weight.


Just to add to the pot -- I'd wager that the factory hitch is 500/5000 and 1000/10000 w/WD. That was pretty much the 'standard' in 1996. Aftermarket hitches might be rated 600/6000 and 1000/10000 w/WD. And if you got all fancy you could buy a 750/7500 and 1000/10000 w/WD.

So his load would be perfectly fine non-WD'd for his truck and hitch.

As I mentioned in my very first post:
blthomas does not have a tongue weight problem the best I can tell....I am talking about load...5000lbs is the figure we were given...how is a WDH going to help with a 5000lb load if his receiver rating exceeds that weight.

I will fall into line on your thinking if you will remove the front bolts on the receiver with out a WDH and stick your finger in it while driving down the road....just to prove to me there is no load on those bolts.....I'll even hold your beer for ya. Could be done less dramatic but not as fun to watch.

Maybe a third M.E. Degree would allow you to figure out that assuming my setup is making things worse would be incorrect. I had a bumper pull that had a case of trailer bump on concrete interstates....the WDH did not help at all....the set up I pictured stopped the side effect of the problem.....I never had a weight problem with the tongue. The problem was not fixed but the undesired side affects where eliminated. The air bag was absorbing the bump instead of the truck frame.

On a side note...we are dealing with a F350 not a 1/2 ton or pacer.......at what weight(tongue and or gross) do you recommend using the WDH from a mechanical engineers prospective? Do I need one for my 4x8 when hauling my 4wheeler?

And is it a blanket statement or should people make sure all their equipment is rated for what they are doing and then make an assessment based on their setup?

Fyrman was right, you do just want to argue. :rolleyes:

The original poster asked at what point should you start using weight distribution. Several folks posted that they are pulling serious loads without WD. I was trying to alert people to the fact that WD is not just about handling and where your headlights are pointed.

So, my opinion is you should scale your trailer and truck. You should have 10-15% of the trailer weight on the tongue, I like closer to 15%. If this amount exceeds your receiver's rating without WD, you need WD. If it exceeds your receiver's WD rating, you need a bigger receiver, less junk, or a gooseneck trailer. :flipoff2::flipoff2:

When I towed with a 95 Tahoe, the factory hitch was rated for 500/5000 without WD. If the trailer scales at 5,000 lbs you could tow it without WD, but with only 10% on the tongue its likely to wag a bit. I would pull it with about 700 lbs on the tongue and WD.

Now.
I've stated my credentials. I've added tech. I've stayed on topic.
How about you?
No credibility. Wacky rubber band aid tech. Plenty of attitude.

Fyrman was right, you do just want to argue. :rolleyes:

The original poster asked at what point should you start using weight distribution. Several folks posted that they are pulling serious loads without WD. I was trying to alert people to the fact that WD is not just about handling and where your headlights are pointed.

You should have quoted the people you are referring to and not me in your response if that was truly your intention.

So, my opinion is you should scale your trailer and truck. You should have 10-15% of the trailer weight on the tongue, I like closer to 15%. If this amount exceeds your receiver's rating without WD, you need WD. If it exceeds your receiver's WD rating, you need a bigger receiver, less junk, or a goose neck trailer. :flipoff2::flipoff2:

This is actually the first advice you have given to blthomas which in turn is very similar to the advice I gave


Now.
I've stated my credentials. I've added tech. I've stayed on topic.
How about you?
No credibility. Wacky rubber band aid tech. Plenty of attitude.


I did not respond to what other people were saying, I was responding to blthomas with this advice from original post "You should make sure everything you are using is rated for the weight placed on it.....then if you have an issue when your loaded, utilize some of the things mentioned in previous post to correct the issue.

Just my two cents....good luck "

That is all I said: Did not require a engineering degree, hardly band aid tech, and certainly was not giving with any attitude.

Crawled under the truck yesterday, can't find anything on the hitch, the sticker is worn off, and I'd be willing to bet thats where the weight info was.

Stopped at TSC, they have class 4's there rated at 6,500 no WDH, and I believe it was 8500 with WDH or something to that effect, I didn't write it down.

That would suite my needs fine, the camper is small and weighs 4400 dry and unloaded.

CJ on car hauler needs to be weighed, so I'll work on figuring out what hitch is on the truck, and getting the proper ball mount/ball. Then get weighed.

Thanks.

Odds are your factory receiver is rated at 500/5000 weight carrying and 1,000/10,000 with weight distribution. https://www.fleet.ford.com/downloads/Towing/10-12_thingstoknow.pdf

As a point of reference, my CJ weighed 3,500 stock and 4,500 in its current state. My 18foot car hauler weighed 1,800 stock and 2,000 with tool box and gear. So unless you have an aluminum trailer and a stock CJ you are going to be over 5,000 lbs.

Being a couple of hundred pounds over these ratings is no big deal, there is a healthy factor of safety in the design. If your "other Ford project" is a full size on Rocks, then you are gonna need WD so you might as well get it now. If you are planning to get a bigger trailer and tow two rigs you should move up to a 2.5" receiver now and get a WD hitch when you get the bigger trailer.

Appreciate the input. I'd still like to verify the weight rating on it. It's a bone stock XL F350, was used as a landscape truck.

I'd like to pick up the proper equipment for heaviest of towing eseentially over building it for my needs, but if I found my hitch receiver was 10k rated with WDH then that would suit me fine.

They had on the shelf a WDH hitch at TSC for $369, bars, chains, brakcets for trailer, hitch mount.

All I'd need is the proper ball.

Yea I figure I'm over the 5k rating for sure. The trailer is open deck, but it's homemade with c-channel for frame/tongue, the the crossmembers are c-channel too, the runners are steel plate, the ramps slide in and are 3/8" angle covers in diamond plate steel.

Figure with fenders, tires, spare, toolbox, it's got to be 2k easy, especially with damn near 20' of deck.

CJ is nothing special by Pirate standards, homemade skids, small lift, 33" LTB's. But I carry spares, tools, etc so I'm sure it's heavy too.

I want to strap up and get weighed and be sure of what I have there.

Probably won't end up pulling the other Ford much, I think it will be more resto now after working on it. 77' F250 shortbed. If I did decide to bog it or whatever, I'd have to look at a better towrig for that heavy mothfukle.

Getting back to the OP questions.

How much of an improvement in handling/braking/sway control/etc do you get when you tow with the WDH vs. with a standard drop hitch? I admittedly have never towed with a WDH and would like to know if I should really look into getting one. I’m trying to evaluate the cost to benefits ratio. If I am only going to see marginal gains then I can not justify the cost. If there are remarkable gains then it’s a little easier sale.

I tow a pretty standard setup; Jeep on an open deck trailer with gear in the truck bed. My truck is a gas regular cab ¾ ton dodge with an 8’ bed w/ air bags. I feel that my current setup can be towed very safely. But if there is a safer more efficient way to do something then I’d like to know.

Getting back to the OP questions.

How much of an improvement in handling/braking/sway control/etc do you get when you tow with the WDH vs. with a standard drop hitch? I admittedly have never towed with a WDH and would like to know if I should really look into getting one. I’m trying to evaluate the cost to benefits ratio. If I am only going to see marginal gains then I can not justify the cost. If there are remarkable gains then it’s a little easier sale.

I tow a pretty standard setup; Jeep on an open deck trailer with gear in the truck bed. My truck is a gas regular cab ¾ ton dodge with an 8’ bed w/ air bags. I feel that my current setup can be towed very safely. But if there is a safer more efficient way to do something then I’d like to know.

I personally don't think you need a WD setup with what you described, from my personal experience if you use a WD on lighter loads when you don't need it you actually end up with more sway. Your jeep loaded right on a drop hitch should pull just fine.

I personally don't think you need a WD setup with what you described, from my personal experience if you use a WD on lighter loads when you don't need it you actually end up with more sway. Your jeep loaded right on a drop hitch should pull just fine.

he does not need a WD setup as long as the hitch, mount and ball are all rated for that load in a non-WD setup. That is the point that is being made in many of the posts here.

If he has a typical Class III hitch, then the 500lb tongue, 5000lb total load may not be enough. I am not sure what people are not understanding about this concept.

If he has a Class V with 1200lb tongue, 12000lb total load then he wont need a WD setup

he does not need a WD setup as long as the hitch, mount and ball are all rated for that load in a non-WD setup. That is the point that is being made in many of the posts here.

If he has a typical Class III hitch, then the 500lb tongue, 5000lb total load may not be enough. I am not sure what people are not understanding about this concept.

If he has a Class V with 1200lb tongue, 12000lb total load then he wont need a WD setup

Exactly. This stuff can and does break. $400 for a WD setup is cheap considering what would happen if your receiver or frame failed. Here is an example:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/pic-why-you-should-check-your-stock-t236943.html

Getting back to the OP questions.

How much of an improvement in handling/braking/sway control/etc do you get when you tow with the WDH vs. with a standard drop hitch?

I noticed almost no difference between pulling the small TT with WDH versus the CJ on the open deck trailer.

THe TT is so light though with the fold out tent style ends, it's a good 1500 lighter total weight dry.

he does not need a WD setup as long as the hitch, mount and ball are all rated for that load in a non-WD setup. That is the point that is being made in many of the posts here.

If he has a typical Class III hitch, then the 500lb tongue, 5000lb total load may not be enough. I am not sure what people are not understanding about this concept.

If he has a Class V with 1200lb tongue, 12000lb total load then he wont need a WD setup


I myself have understood that from the start, it seemed clear to me once explained. My worry now lies with the receiver hitch itself, I have a rated 2 5/16 ball, need a rated ball mount.

If my receiver is found to be a 500/5000 & WDH 1000/10000, I may just up grade to a class 4 or 5 reciever for now.

The TT has WDH setup with it, including ball and mount. But it's only a 2" ball so I'd need a separate setup for the CJ and trailer as that trailer is 2 5/16". :shaking:

Figure if I step up to a class 4 or 5 receiver and good ball/ball mount, I should be covered on all fronts for my personal hauling.

Thanks

Since we're on the subject, I picked up a used Draw-tite WDH for mine this weekend for $110 off craigs. Came with everything including solid shank with adjustable height. Watch craigslist, they pop up from time to time at least around my area.

I've never used one before but knew I needed one for this trailer that we bought a couple weeks ago, it's 30' and the GVWR is 9500 lbs. Not sure what it is dry yet.

Does this look setup right? How do you set the tension on the sway bar chains? Per instructions it says to hold the chain taught with binder closed, take note what link is closest to the hook then take away one more link when you hook it up. This didn't seem real tight to me, I mean I could almost lock the binder with-out the cheater pipe.

http://198.237.72.28/trailers/Ford-Terry-1.jpg
http://198.237.72.28/trailers/Ford-Terry-2.jpg
http://198.237.72.28/trailers/Ford-Terry-4.jpg

The chains aren't for sway control, they allow the bars to move when you turn.

The angle of your bars looks good (parallel to the ground). I would take up another link and see if the tension felt right. If so, and the bars are now out of wack, you need to take the add another washer in the shank to level them out.

Note that my instructions mention measuring from ground to fender front and rear then setting the tension so that the relative heights are the same (if it was an inch higher in the rear without the trailer, it should still be and inch higher with the trailer and WD).

Nice looking rig.

I tow a 8000 lb camper when it's fully loaded, use WDH and sway bar, air bags in the rear springs of my 2006 Suburban 1500. The only reason I'm not over weight is that I'm rated at 8500lb due to my 4.10 gearing.

When I hook up the torsion bars it sure does pick up the back end of the suburban. Never towed without the setup, but I'm sure it wouldn't drive well at all. Drives great the way it is. I get the torsion bars as tight on the chain as I can, but still keep them fair parallel to the ground.

Fyrman nailed it. A WD hitch is designed to take the load diredtly off the ball and transfer it toward the front of the vehicle. There is a simple rule to follow. If your trailer weight OR tounge weight exceed the weight carrying specs on the hitch, you need to use it. You always use the lowest rating in your setup as your deciding factor.
Oh, and in defense of the guy with the Dodge, they are terrible about putting WC ratings on those hitches. I spent way too much time on the phone trying to find that info for a customers truck.
There is a pic floating around showing a pair of Olds Toronados towing trailers with a WD hitch, and the cars don't have any rear wheels on them.

anyone with issues with bolts pulling out of the frame or hitches tearing are fuktards who should not be allowed to pull a trailer yet alone drive WD hitch or not
you cannot just load up the trailer with all your crap,inflate the air bags and go

I tow 6400lbs (scale weight)with 800lbs camping gear in the bed(again weighed at scale) with 500lbs tongue weight(measured at the scale) at it handles just fine with a 1/2ton with stock springs+2inch addaleaf and no air bags with only 2inches of sag

if find it amazing how many fuktards just load there crap on the trailer as far forward as it will go without even thinking about weight distribution

The chains aren't for sway control, they allow the bars to move when you turn.

The angle of your bars looks good (parallel to the ground). I would take up another link and see if the tension felt right. If so, and the bars are now out of wack, you need to take the add another washer in the shank to level them out.

Note that my instructions mention measuring from ground to fender front and rear then setting the tension so that the relative heights are the same (if it was an inch higher in the rear without the trailer, it should still be and inch higher with the trailer and WD).

Nice looking rig.

Oh ok, I'll do that next. There isn't anywhere near enough tension on the chains as I had it to raise the pickup up in the rear (it drops an inch or more when the trailer is down on the ball). I'll measure like you mention next time I hook it up and tighten from there, I was just afraid I was putting too much on them but it sounds like you can't hardly put too much.

Thanks