I'm having a problem with my DD. Its a 2001 7.3 Superduty. About 2 weeks ago "when it started getting cold" it started really dragging the starter. I assumed the batterys were on there way out. I put 2 new batterys in and it started acting better for a day or two. Then it would start fine one min, then barely start the next. Sometimes I would go to start it and it would barely turn over, turn key off then right back on and it started just fine. Today it failed to start at all, just barely turn over. Put a jumper pack on it with same results. I know the alternater is charging fine. Even on jumper cables no start. So I pulled the starter, on the bench it sounds Fine. I'm gonna go have it tested in the morning.

Any other ideas?

I'm having a problem with my DD. Its a 2001 7.3 Superduty. About 2 weeks ago "when it started getting cold" it started really dragging the starter. I assumed the batterys were on there way out. I put 2 new batterys in and it started acting better for a day or two. Then it would start fine one min, then barely start the next. Sometimes I would go to start it and it would barely turn over, turn key off then right back on and it started just fine. Today it failed to start at all, just barely turn over. Put a jumper pack on it with same results. I know the alternater is charging fine. Even on jumper cables no start. So I pulled the starter, on the bench it sounds Fine. I'm gonna go have it tested in the morning.

Any other ideas?Clean all your battery cables, positive and negative, both batteries, with a good cleaner/shaper like this:
http://base-images.cygnuspub.com/images/Products/PTEN/2008/Feb/300x300/EZREDCOMPANY_batterypostCl.png

Also check connection at starter.

Are you cycling the glow plugs , Have you checked to see if the glow plug relay is good?

From experience working at an auto parts store for the past 13 years i would suggest that you have a loose ground or that the battery cables are corroded to a point where it's losing a connection. I've sold a pile of those starters for the 7.3 and they do tend to give problems. I'm willing to bet that it's the batt cable or starter. They also made two sytles of starters in that year. A denso and a ford (visteon). Make sure you try to get the denso if it is your starter. The denso will bolt right on and will last longer. Dont buy one from autozone or advance thou. They give you lifetime warranty for a reason. You'll be changing it for a lifetime!!!!!

Are you cycling the glow plugs , Have you checked to see if the glow plug relay is good?

glow plugs have nothing to do with crank speed.


srsgsxr1000, if your batteries are fresh, you need a new starter.

All terminals looked good when I replaced battery's a couple days ago, But I am gonna check them again.

I wouldn't thing the Glow plug relay would cause the engine to not turn over, but i'll check it.

All cables looked fine, I'll check all grounds tommorow.

Thanks for the input!

Plug it in. If you don't have a block heater you can get the kind that go in the lower rad hose. I had the same problem and ended up frying two batteries and a starter. A heater is much cheaper.

Edit: sounds like you may already have cooked your starter. Pull it out and take it in to a starter shop to get tested.

All terminals looked good when I replaced battery's a couple days ago, But I am gonna check them again.

I wouldn't thing the Glow plug relay would cause the engine to not turn over, but i'll check it.

All cables looked fine, I'll check all grounds tommorow.

Thanks for the input!

Use a multi-meter to check the resistance from the terminal end to the other end of the cable. I had this same problem on my Cummins, where first I had a bad battery. Then it cooked the starter a little later. Then it still didn't work well, so I took the starter back to the rebuild guy. He said the starter was fine, and told me to check for corrosion in the cable, where the battery cable end was attached. I had thought nothing about that, as the cable had a pre-attached end, not a clamp on. He was right, it was nasty, I cut off the existing end back to good wire, replaced the cable end, and I haven't had problems since. I might not have messed up the first starter if I would had found the cable problem earlier. I had cleaned the cable ends and battery terminals themselves before, and it never occurred to me to check the cable inside the end on a pre-made cable.

Get a Cummins :flipoff2: But everybody around here said avoid the 7.3 powerstroke b/c they dont start worth a shit in the winter unless there plug in for a while.

7.3 start fine in the cold.

you have a bad cable or starter.,

Get a Cummins :flipoff2: But everybody around here said avoid the 7.3 powerstroke b/c they dont start worth a shit in the winter unless there plug in for a while.

I'm going on my 6th winter with this truck. Never used the block heater, and never had a starting issue.

I'm betting cable or cable end.

I had this exact same problem on my diesel Kubota. I killed it to talk to someone and it wouldn't crank back. Tried to jump it and wouldn't work.

no corrosion as I have some junk I put on the terminals. finally when going to switch out the batt, I noticed a crack in the terminal. the only way I got it to work was to put the terminal on the post upside down, get the tractor back to the shop and replaced the terminal.

Get a Cummins :flipoff2: But everybody around here said avoid the 7.3 powerstroke b/c they dont start worth a shit in the winter unless there plug in for a while.

Mine starter @ -3F yesterday without being plugged in without a problem.

I normally plug it in, but somehow I forgot the night before.

She smoked a bit, but she started just fine.

As long as you have a decent starter system, and functioning glow plugs, you are good to go.

7.3 start fine in the cold.

you have a bad cable or starter.,

:laughing:

Mine starter @ -3F yesterday without being plugged in without a problem.

I normally plug it in, but somehow I forgot the night before.

She smoked a bit, but she started just fine.

As long as you have a decent starter system, and functioning glow plugs, you are good to go.

Add synthetic oil to that list and you are good to go to -30º without it being plugged it. Its not going to like you very much but it will start.

2* with a 7.3 this morning. Started great, little smoke and clatter, but fired right off.

2* with a 7.3 this morning. Started great, little smoke and clatter, but fired right off.

0* here and started fine with it being plugged in overnight.

I'd bet starter. Mine acted the same way before it left me stranded in the middle of a parking lot in the middle of the night in pouring down rain. :shaking:

My 99 would do the same thing if it were cold out and it wasn't plugged in. I changed to Amsoil and waala problem solved.

glow plugs have nothing to do with crank speed.

I wouldn't thing the Glow plug relay would cause the engine to not turn over, but i'll check it.

The glow plug relay can in fact have a lot to do with this issue. I have worked on a couple of trucks with intermittent no start issues that sound similar that nobody else seemed to be able to fix. Basically, the glow plug relay was failing and would stick closed. Replace the relay and it would function fine.

I would however look at the cables, etc. as well, just don't ignore the GPR.

I had a similar problem to yours. I changed batteries, and put new cables on the truck (needed them anyway), but the problem turned out to be the starter. Like was stated earlier, use a multi-meter to see what kind of amp and voltage draw your starter is putting on the system. BTW starters are easy to change on these trucks.

Stephen

UPDATE!

I took the starter to have it tested. They said it tested fine but could be an intermittent problem. So I put the starter back in, replaced the one terminal that had some corrosion, cleaned all terminals, checked all grounds, hit the key and it turned over 1 slow revolution and stopped. Turned off key, waited 1 min tried again and it fired right up. Took the whole truck down to do some test. Alt was fine, batteries are fine, started up 3 times fine and starter load test checked fine. Its been starting fine for the last few hours.

I'm gonna give it a few days, if I have any more problems i'm gonna buy a new starter.

I've had two starters in different 7.3's that supposedly tested fine. The problem was the person doing the test didn't run the test long enough. The initial amperage draw appeared to be in spec and the test stopped.

The parts store I trust now lets them run for a while on the testing stand and wouldn't you know it, after a few seconds the amperage draw increased to the point where the starters were deemed bad. In both cases the starters were replaced and all has been good since.

I've had bad glow plug relays (owned 7.3's since '97) and never once has it affected the speed at which the starter spins the engine over. Someone would have to prove to me that there is a relationship between the two in terms of electrical draw for me to believe that the GPR affects the starter.

Edit: Mine started no problem yesterday morning at -7°F.

:laughing:



Add synthetic oil to that list and you are good to go to -30º without it being plugged it. Its not going to like you very much but it will start.

Ive considered it. And REALLY considered it when I serviced my rig last week. But the $80 or so difference between good ole' Rotella and the synthetic thinner stuff just didnt fit the bill.


Maybe next winter.:smokin:

I've had bad glow plug relays (owned 7.3's since '97) and never once has it affected the speed at which the starter spins the engine over. Someone would have to prove to me that there is a relationship between the two in terms of electrical draw for me to believe that the GPR affects the starter.


Agreed.

With these motors, if you have a slow crank, it is either a battery/charge problem, or the starter.

Add cold weather into the mix, and any slight problem will turn into a major one. Batteries cannot hold as well a charge, and the starter draws more amperes as the oil thickens up.

As for what starter to get, somebody has already suggested the Denso starter. Ill suggest that one too. 2 winters ago I fried an OEM starter, and replaced it with this one.

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/snd0355%20--?&caSKU=snd0355%20--&caTitle=Ford%207.3L%20POWERSTROKE%20Starter%20Truc k%2094%2095%2096%2097%2098%2099%2000%20%20SND0355

Best move Ive made in a long time. You will not believe how fast this thing cranks, and how easy it makes starting these large diesels.

I've had bad glow plug relays (owned 7.3's since '97) and never once has it affected the speed at which the starter spins the engine over. Someone would have to prove to me that there is a relationship between the two in terms of electrical draw for me to believe that the GPR affects the starter.

So you don't think that a GPR that is stuck in the on position and having the glow plugs drawing 100 amps is going to affect how fast the truck turns over? :shaking:

Your GPRs failed to the open position, as most of them do.

I didn't say it was a common failure, but I have seen it happen. Like I said before, it took several people looking at it before they got fixed.

Ive considered it. And REALLY considered it when I serviced my rig last week. But the $80 or so difference between good ole' Rotella and the synthetic thinner stuff just didnt fit the bill.


Maybe next winter.:smokin:

It doesn't cost any more than standard Rotella does if you know where to look.

So you don't think that a GPR that is stuck in the on position and having the glow plugs drawing 100 amps is going to affect how fast the truck turns over? :shaking:

Actually it is more like 70 AMPS. The GPs draw about 8 Amps each.

And no, if your batteries are up to snuff, it will NOT effect how it turns over.

We are talking about 70 AMPS, in a 1600+ AMP system. Each battery should be 800CCA or better. I run 950CCA batteries.

PEANUTS.


It doesn't cost any more than standard Rotella does if you know where to look.

Okay, so find me one place online that has it for less than $12 per gallon. 'cause you sure are not getting any cheaper than that at a parts house.

hit the key and it turned over 1 slow revolution and stopped. Turned off key, waited 1 min tried again and it fired right up. Took the whole truck down to do some test. Alt was fine, batteries are fine, started up 3 times fine and starter load test checked fine. Its been starting fine for the last few hours.


Ive own several higher mileage 7.3l over the past 7 yrs. I would bank on a cable or starter you just put in new batteries and have same problem. The visteon starter motor have a habit of ovaling (swollen motor) causing dragging....I know Ive had 3 visteon failures. I run denso style now way better starter starter turns 7.3 motor fast. Visteon turned 7.3 motor slow even with new replacement compared to denso. I got my last denso style starter from DB starter also.

Actually it is more like 70 AMPS. The GPs draw about 8 Amps each.

And no, if your batteries are up to snuff, it will NOT effect how it turns over.

We are talking about 70 AMPS, in a 1600+ AMP system. Each battery should be 800CCA or better. I run 950CCA batteries.

PEANUTS.

Believe what you want, I've seen it done. The GPR stayed on long enough that it melted the harnesses too, which is ultimately how the problem was uncovered. It progressed from a hard start to a no start.


Okay, so find me one place online that has it for less than $12 per gallon. 'cause you sure are not getting any cheaper than that at a parts house.

I buy 2 gallons of synthetic oil for $20. 5w40 in the winter, 15w40 in the summer. Look at your local farm stores, they usually have a better deal than a parts house.

I bet it is the starter. Mine was doing the same shit. I replaced both batts, then the alt and was still having issues. Then even though the starter tested good I replaced it. No probs since. It was -14 here the other night and it fired right up. Stumbled a bit, but it started. I also changed over to synthetic rotella.

So you don't think that a GPR that is stuck in the on position and having the glow plugs drawing 100 amps is going to affect how fast the truck turns over? :shaking:
.

you sir are an idiot!
a powerstroke coninutes to power up the glow plug relay after the wait to start light goes out, and keeps it on a predetermined time based on oil temperature, so on a 100% perfect truck in a cold weather start situation, the glow plugs will still be drawing as you are cranking the truck.
put a test light on the GPR hot wire. the PCM continues to ground it while cranking on the superduties.

New update!

No start this morning. About 24°, tried about 5 times and on the fith try it started right up like it never had a problem.

Guess i'll buy a starter.

you sir are an idiot!
a powerstroke coninutes to power up the glow plug relay after the wait to start light goes out, and keeps it on a predetermined time based on oil temperature, so on a 100% perfect truck in a cold weather start situation, the glow plugs will still be drawing as you are cranking the truck.
put a test light on the GPR hot wire. the PCM continues to ground it while cranking on the superduties.

None of you guys seem to grasp the concept here. The relay was STUCK ON, CONTACTS WELDED! It was draining the batteries when the vehicle wasn't running. Then you would come back a while later and try to start it and it would crank slow or not start at all. To top it off, it happened intermittently, so sometimes it would start and operate fine and other times it wouldn't.

I know how the glow plug system works on these. You don't have to explain it to me. I've been around and worked on more than a couple of 'strokes, but probably not as many as you.

None of you guys seem to grasp the concept here. The relay was STUCK ON, CONTACTS WELDED! It was draining the batteries when the vehicle wasn't running.

So it took you how many posts to mention the part about the batteries draining or that power was being drawn with the key off?

Knowing that tidbit of info makes perfect sense, but I still doubt that's the problem. Starters in these tend to shit the bed early and GPR's usually won't make contact when you need them to.

So it took you how many posts to mention the part about the batteries draining or that power was being drawn with the key off?

Knowing that tidbit of info makes perfect sense, but I still doubt that's the problem. Starters in these tend to shit the bed early and GPR's usually won't make contact when you need them to.

I deal with vehicle electronics/electrical systems everyday, so maybe I just make assumptions or don't come across very well online? I dunno...

I'm with you, I doubt that the GPR sticking on is his problem, nor does it happen with any frequency. I merely was trying to get the point across that there can indeed be a correlation between the glow plug circuit and slow cranking.

None of you guys seem to grasp the concept here. The relay was STUCK ON, CONTACTS WELDED! It was draining the batteries when the vehicle wasn't running. Then you would come back a while later and try to start it and it would crank slow or not start at all. To top it off, it happened intermittently, so sometimes it would start and operate fine and other times it wouldn't.

.

if it was stuck on and drawing the full amps if it was "welded", the batteries would be under 7 volts in under 10 hours and the thing wouldnt even attempt to crank...........

On synthetic oil, I might be an oil snob, but when you go into Farm and Fleet, or Billy Bob Backoff's Farm junk, firing range and marraige counseling store to buy "synthetic oil", make sure and read up on it and make sure it isn't SEMI-synthetic.
I'd rather run cat shit in my engine than semi synthetic.
Rotella, or Amsoil, for grease burners.
Just my opinion.:p

if it was stuck on and drawing the full amps if it was "welded", the batteries would be under 7 volts in under 10 hours and the thing wouldnt even attempt to crank...........

Where did I say it sat that long?