We bought a 2000 Tahoe with a fabtech 6" lift and 285/75/16 bfgs on 16x10 rims about a year ago, now that the thing is paid off we have been noticing some front end vibrations.

This is my first lifted IFS rig. Its the wifes and only gets used on the street. I have taken it in to have the tires balanced, but no dice. I crawled under it today and jacked up the passenger side. It has about 1-2" of side to side movement coming from the joint circled in the first pic.
There is also slop on the passenger side and drivers side joint circled in the second pic. I went to the Napaonline site and am having trouble finding the replacement parts. What Am I looking at replacing? I thought it was gonna be tierods or draglink, but not sure.

I have a leak in the front diff as well that will need to be adressed. What are the steps for R&R to get this thing resealed?


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http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x217/bigbadchev84/DSCF0149.jpg

very common wear parts. inner tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm.

I don't work on ifs diffs so I can't help with that.

Ditto the above, those parts should be easy to find, I'd go for Moog parts as they are typically made a little better than the discount stuff, but they will be a little more money. Worth it in my opinion.

As far as the diff leak, if it isn't pouring out a lot, i'd leave it alone. Many diffs that haven't been built leak a little, mine included. You're probably looking at 2-4 hours if you're an amateur like myself and doing in on jackstands, less if you can use a lift and all the pneumatic goodies. You'll have to remove the upper control arm, halfshafts, and then take out the diff cradle, which may require the lower control arms to be removed as I'm not sure how the Fabtech lift places/attaches all the components. And an alignment when you're done of course. But again, if it isn't leaking alot, i'd just clean it up, make sure the bolts are tight, make sure the fluid level is ok and call it good. When it starts to really leak a lot, then I'd look at taking it out.

with the fab tech lift all you have to remove to get the diff out is the inner cv bolts and the bolts that actually hold the diff to the truck. should be able to wiggle the diff out. but like the op said just check the levels and let it ride if it is not pouring fluid out.

The only way to fix that is SAS :mr-t:

at Napa, I paid like $55 for my tie rod end links. I have a 2500HD. It will probably be about the same price.