View Full Version : Converting Dually width front D60 to single?
Garza
09-07-2001, 09:45 PM
I am going to buy a front Dana60 off a 93 3/4ton Dodge I found. Prob is it's from a dually so the wheel mounting surface is way out there. I need to convert it to single wheel width. You guys got any tips or know how to do this? The only thing I saw wrong with it is that the yoke was broken. Besides that, the manual locking hubs still work and everything turns smooth.
Hayraker
09-08-2001, 04:01 PM
Change the hub and rotor assembly, by the way duallys are 1 ton not 3/4
jimbob
09-09-2001, 01:42 AM
why would you change anything bigger is better.
trade someone your front end for a 3/4 ton axle and probably get a couple bucks to boot?
Garza
09-10-2001, 10:24 AM
Originally posted by jimbob:
<STRONG>why would you change anything bigger is better.
trade someone your front end for a 3/4 ton axle and probably get a couple bucks to boot?</STRONG>
Im not sure what you mean. The axle has 93 Dodge 3/4 ton written on it. I know the guys at the salvage yard could have messed that up, but I asked a few shops and even found an application list. It said Dodge 3/4 and 1 ton front axles were D60's. I was told that 93 was the last year for the leaf sprung ones though? It doesn't matter, it's still a D60, and its going under a Toyota so I could care less what it actuall came from. When you say swap it for a 3/4ton axle im lost. I hope you don't mean D44. That's not an upgrade for me, thats just an easier axle to change than my current Birfields when they explode, but I don't want the dually width. My rear D60 is only 65" wms-wms. Goin D60 front no question. What u mean by 3/4 ton front?
patooyee
09-10-2001, 12:32 PM
I don't know what those other folks are talking about, but here's what I did to convert my Chevy dually d60 front to single wheel width:
Find a friend that works at a machine shop. Get him to machine off the outer wheel mounting surface that is on the hub right now. Then, buy a press-in lug for a single wheel application. Use it as a measurement guide to see how much you drill the remaining 8 holes out. Basically, you are taking what used to just hold the hub to the caliper and making it so that it does that plus hold the wheel on. You drill out the hub holes to the size of the first bevel on the lug, and the holes on the rotor to the outer bevel on the lug. So instead of bolts holding your hub to your rotor, now you have pressed in lugs doing it, which the wheel will also be mounted to. I don't think I really explained this very well, so tell me if it needs clarification.
J. J.
Garza
09-10-2001, 03:29 PM
Thank you patooyee, actually one of my best friends has a machine shop. I will try that. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
patooyee
09-10-2001, 11:05 PM
Don't screw up! I've seen new hubs going for around $360/hub! <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0">
J. J.
WOLF359
09-11-2001, 12:23 AM
Machine off the flange, and attach the rotor with studs. That's it.
Land Crusher
09-11-2001, 06:12 AM
the 60 was used on the 3/4 ton diesel.
regulasr 3/4 ton did not have d60
but maybe the dualy 3/4 ton in the gas
vershion did ???
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