Hey Everyone! Me Again, I just thought of something else...

For you full size people out there into rock crawling , what lockers do you use/prefer?
Im leaning towards ARBs or the new OX Lockers....
Has anyone used the OX lockers?

What are the advantages and disadvantages : air vs. Mechanical?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Also , anyone know where else to get a slip yoke eliminator besides Tellico?


Thanks Everyone!

Erin

Search here and in the General forum for lots of info on OX and ARB lockers. I personally prefer auto-lockers like the detroit, simple, cheaper, and generally more reliable. For a rear that can handle it (like a C14FF), just weld it and throw a detroit in the front...

I second the welded rear and the Detroit in the front. no compressor, lines or bs to go wrong.
"KISS" method, Keep It Simple Stupid

Thanks Bad & Spooln! Really appreciate your time!

Thanks Again!
Erin

spool it

what t-case are you runing?

Forget the spool. C14ff welded and save some cash to get the same thing as a spool. Detroit up front.

When you gonna post that pic? You did'nt think he was joking did ya? :flipoff2:


Charlo

What pic??? :rolleyes:

I know I say this every time, go detroit front and rear! they work everytime!

Welding the rear is fine, but if you can afford it put in the detroit esspecially if you do any street driving it saves a lot of stress on componants.

If you have manual hubs up front, just spool the front to save money and go with a detroit in the rear for road use.

Originally posted by Shaw
If you have manual hubs up front, just spool the front to save money and go with a detroit in the rear for road use.
Hmm, can't say I agree with that. For one thing, it's tough to even turn the wheels with a spool in front if you don't have hydro assist. For another, when the outside tire is not allowed to over-run the inside tire, there is a tendency to not want to turn at all, even when the tires are at full lock. A spool in the rear will sometimes have the same tendency but, it is much more exaggerated with a spool in the front.

I was welded front and rear in the Heep I had and it really works well. Its hard to turn a Detroit at times as well. What I did is only lock one hub untill I needed it then locked both, hey $325 can make good use somewhere else as far as I am concerned. As for the welded rear, if I rember right you had a 14ff right? Do I need to say more?

If you have manual hubs up front, just spool the front to save money and go with a detroit in the rear for road use.

spool in the front with 37s and a 10bolt lol :flipoff2:




Charlo

Ummm......yeah. Spool in the front with a 10-bolt? Just unlock one hubto turn? Get really good at replacing 297x u-joints if you go that route. Weld the rear, Detroit or ARB the front, or if you get a Dana 44 front, you could go OX, but depending on your drivign style and the type of wheelin' you plan on, you may even be happy with a good limited slip front.

Originally posted by charlo


spool in the front with 37s and a 10bolt lol :flipoff2:




Charlo

I didn't see that she had a 10 bolt. :flipoff2:

She's a chick. of coarse she's got a 10bolt :crybaby:
just kidding. :D



Charlo

ouch Charlo...that was harsh !

*smirk* You just wait ...... the Big Dawg'll be out to get ya soon enough

:flipoff2:

Actually after November 11th its gunna be 14 bolt rear , D60 front....So the question is changed......?

ARB front , Detroit rear still?

And as far as gears , I was cautioned to not go lower then 4:88s ....too high RPM on highway?

Just out of curiosity , I was told to find a 3/4 ton suburban and run the D44 off that?? Are the 3/4 tons 6 or 8 lug???????

:angel:

As I recall, your planning on 38/39" tires, right? If so 5.13s should keep you in a more or less stock rpm range (according to 4LO's (http://www.4lo.com/geartable.html) gear table I pointed you to earlier. I didn't bother to verify it but, it sounds about right. Take a look, it tells you what rpm you would be doing at 65 based on tire size and gear.

On lockers, my personal preference stands at Detroit front and rear. However, an ARB would be very nice in the front in some cases, not so good in others. <shrug> It's up to you and your bank account I guess... For me, the pros of the ARB vs. the cons are not enough to justify dipping into the bank account. If I were “well off” (or better yet, wealthy) then I would probably have 2 rigs, one with a D60 ARB and the other with a DL. :D After all, I’m rich (or rather am in this fantasy!) so why not!! ;)

Yes, the 3/4 ton has a 8 lug D44 or C10 front, depending on year. IMO, it’s really not strong enough to run 38”+ tires if you really plan to use it off road in a full size with reasonably health V8…

Originally posted by 4Bangler
Ummm......yeah. Spool in the front with a 10-bolt? Just unlock one hubto turn? Get really good at replacing 297x u-joints if you go that route.

Well with my heep I had a Chev 350 and only had to replace one axle the whole time I had the thing (although it had 538's too). It all depends on your driving style, Big foot= BIG AXLES Finesse= you might get away with it.

Ya know the more I think about (and its been bugging me for days now) the selectable locker thing in the rear the better it sounds. Turning brakes definatley come in handy now and then.

You can have cutting brakes with a DL too. Just need to twin-stick it...