hey guys i'm new here, just bought my 1st truck

1996, 4x4, 3/4 ton (8bolt), 4l80e, 216K motor rebuilt (blue printed & balanced)at 120k

i was thinking of going with a 6" lift, exhaust, chip, and rocker panel sliders.
i dont want to get to extreme and cut the body up. i know its too long to do alot of heavy off roading.

and other ideas?

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/2009-12-12172708.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/2009-12-12172726.jpg

These guys are gonna tear you apart. Just a suggestion, read for a couple years, do your mods, then start a thread.

also gonna add a trans Temp gauge

These guys are gonna tear you apart. Just a suggestion, read for a couple years, do your mods, then start a thread.
have been reading for a week or so. i dont see why they would tear me apart for saying hi?

Yeah these guys on pirate 4x4 think they know everything and are the gods of off road. :rolleyes: Best advice for you, run. :flipoff2:

also gonna add a trans Temp gauge


have been reading for a week or so. i dont see why they would tear me apart for saying hi?

Because almost everyone on here is a jack ass mother fucker pot head. You and me are the only sane ones. LOL

what are your plans for wheeling.rocks?

For the love of everything holy............another fuckin OBS:shaking::shaking:

u will be escorted to the newbie area soon enough LMAO

and other ideas?




Read the stickies.


Search for posts by bowtie96 and don't be like that guy.

Post reported.

u will be escorted to the newbie area soon enough LMAO

prepared to be banned:flipoff2:

Yeah these guys on pirate 4x4 think they know everything and are the gods of off road. :rolleyes: Best advice for you, run. :flipoff2: them over ?:flipoff2:

Because almost everyone on here is a jack ass mother fucker pot head. You and me are the only sane ones. LOL
ok

what are your plans for wheeling.rocks?
yes rocks, i live in AZ that's all we have. rocks and sand. its my DD and still needs to be a functional truck for camping and carrying my ATC, etc

For the love of everything holy............another fuckin OBS:shaking::shaking:
? huh?? OBS?? if you say so.....

First things first.........you need to get a quart of POR15, and a set of Bosch wiper blades....everything else will come.:grinpimp:

[QUOTE=Keaton;10726462]
yes rocks, i live in AZ that's all we have. rocks and sand. its my DD and still needs to be a functional truck for camping and carrying my ATC, etc
QUOTE]

do a solid axle front on leafs and go from there dont waste your money on the ifs.

mattxc is being rude just ignore him.

people on pirate = hilarious. Seriously u guys need to settle down. Why so grumpy?

[QUOTE=Keaton;10726462]
yes rocks, i live in AZ that's all we have. rocks and sand. its my DD and still needs to be a functional truck for camping and carrying my ATC, etc
QUOTE]

do a solid axle front on leafs and go from there dont waste your money on the ifs.

mattxc is being rude just ignore him.

Thats because they were rude to me first. I didn't come hear to mess with people. I dont have time or care to fuck around like that.

people on pirate = hilarious. Seriously u guys need to settle down. Why so grumpy?

now your just messing up keatons' thread

No, I quit. Back to the subject.

I think thats a nice truck you bought. I agree dont cut the body, it looks red neck when they do that. How deep are your pockets? I would go with a 6" lift and 35's unless you are ready to SAS.

First things first.........you need to get a quart of POR15, and a set of Bosch wiper blades....everything else will come.:grinpimp:
why do i need rust paint, and Bosch blades? or are you just F'ing with me?



do a solid axle front on leafs and go from there dont waste your money on the ifs.

mattxc is being rude just ignore him.

yeah i have been looking at a conversion. it seems with a kit for either IFS lift or solid axle swap it will cost with in ~$200 of each other.
if i fab the conversion myself it would be cheaper.

why do i need rust paint, and Bosch blades? or are you just F'ing with me?


I'm just fuckin with you...check out Bowtie 96 threads and it will all be clear.

I'd do a SAS to dana 60, then a black box to help your crawl ratio in the rocks and still be able to DD it. fix or mod stuff as you find weak points or things you want to change to make your rig more capable.

why do i need rust paint, and Bosch blades? or are you just F'ing with me? there making fun of some a$$


yeah i have been looking at a conversion. it seems with a kit for either IFS lift or solid axle swap it will cost with in ~$200 of each other.
if i fab the conversion myself it would be cheaper.

If you have the skills to do it then do it you will love it and theres so much on pbb about sas's.Just read around and ask questions and you will learn alot.

why did my thread get moved?

I'd do a SAS to dana 60, then a black box to help your crawl ratio in the rocks and still be able to DD it. fix or mod stuff as you find weak points or things you want to change to make your rig more capable.

will a dana 60 support the extra weight of a diesel? at some point i want to swap it over. az law state that if i swap the motor has to be newer the the truck.
the cummins 6bt is to heavy IMO the 4bt is kinda under powered for the truck. so i'm thinking a duramax with a Allison 5/6 speed

a dana 60 will be fine.sounds like your gona build a cool truck

they moved it cuz it was newbie talk

why did my thread get moved?

the original location is for advanced construction/fabrication, like the
stuff you talked about below. Not beginning/stock trucks, That's
what this section is for.


will a dana 60 support the extra weight of a diesel? at some point i want to swap it over. az law state that if i swap the motor has to be newer the the truck.
the cummins 6bt is to heavy IMO the 4bt is kinda under powered for the truck. so i'm thinking a duramax with a Allison 5/6 speed

Sounds like a plan, keep us posted, and welcome to Pirate.

just add sliders and bigger tires and off road the bitch...fix as needed....best advice u'll get from us "mother fucker pot heads" :flipoff2:

Personally I would just do exhaust and leave it alone till you save up for an SAS.
The IFS lift will cost you more in the long run. They are hard on ball joints, axles and steering parts.
It is a nice truck, maybe a little long for rocks, you may be able to score an older solid axle truck for cheap to play in the rocks with.
I go to Arizona frequently, there is tons of old iron laying around there.

Personally I would just do exhaust and leave it alone till you save up for an SAS.
The IFS lift will cost you more in the long run. They are hard on ball joints, axles and steering parts.
It is a nice truck, maybe a little long for rocks, you may be able to score an older solid axle truck for cheap to play in the rocks with.
I go to Arizona frequently, there is tons of old iron laying around there.


all the bushings in the steering are shot so it has like a 1" of play in the steering kinda annoying. i was holding out until i either get a lift or a SAS. i keep hearing the OEM breaks are under designed for this truck. so i need to look into that


got a dumb question. when i put in into 4wd do i put the truck into park or N

If its electronic shift on the t-case its got to be in neutral (for low). If its a lever, either will work.

this truck isnt to long for the rocks. go in the chevy section and look up the Paperweight build...Its your truck sas'd with a tube bed. I dont think he shortened the wheelbase so you should be fine.

If its electronic shift on the t-case its got to be in neutral (for low). If its a lever, either will work.

this truck isnt to long for the rocks. go in the chevy section and look up the Paperweight build...Its your truck sas'd with a tube bed. I dont think he shortened the wheelbase so you should be fine.
its got a lever. i put it N an it went into 4L/2L( i have a switch that controls the front locker so i get 4l and 2L) fine. screwed around for 10 minutes then put it back into N. when i went to but it back into 2H it was grinding a kicking the lever so i put the T case into N (trans in N) then tried to put it into P and it would grind going into R so i turned it off put it into P started back up and it would not go back into 2H. so i put the trans back into N. dicked with it for 10 minutes trying to get back into 2h. turned the truck off and on 3 more time then final got it back into 2H :(
what gives?


mines is a short bed BTW

Your issue is any time you go thru the gears when the T-Case is in nuetral the transmision will still spin. So when you go to put the T-case in gear the tranny is still moving until it can be stopped. If you shut it off you should be able to put your t-case in any gear weather in park or nuetral. If it is running you need to make sure before you touch the T-case you are stopped and in nuetral or park before switching from any low to hi or vice versa.

Im too HIGH to give any advice now check back later duudes :smokin:

Your issue is any time you go thru the gears when the T-Case is in nuetral the transmision will still spin. So when you go to put the T-case in gear the tranny is still moving until it can be stopped. If you shut it off you should be able to put your t-case in any gear weather in park or nuetral. If it is running you need to make sure before you touch the T-case you are stopped and in nuetral or park before switching from any low to hi or vice versa. I was stopped in N with my foot on the brake the whole time....... o_O

don't waste your time on an ifs lift, or a chip or any of that bull. I would do a solid axle swap, gears, locker, and a winch......go have fun

Brakes on the 3/4 tons are OK. The t-case will still get some movement with the transmission in neutral even if the truck is stopped. Kinda like setting at a light in drive, the torque converter is absorbing the energy, if you shift to nuetral the energy is relieved from the torque converter and it moves to the transmission. I usually stop put the truck in park when I shift in or out of low range. Your driveline can bind up so if you can drive in a straight line for about 50 ft before you shift in or out it helps. You should be able to shift from 2hi to 4 hi while moving slowly.

if you do an SAS do plenty of research on how much it is going to cost.it'll be 4000 at the cheapest but more likely 5000 unless you do a lot of fabwork yourself but definately look at all the previous threads about it and you'll get a good idea on how many things you are actually going to need for the swap...to list a few things you'll need...front axle(and rear if you go to one tons).spring hangers for the front(swap kit).crossover steering.trac bar.leaf springs and a lift for the rear.brakelines.wheels and tires.driveshaft work.plus miscalaneous things.im currently doing one on my 90 chevy k1500 the thread is in this section

If I were you I'd find someone with a toyota 81-85 and trade them. Toyota's practically come multi-purpose. And the aftermarket supply is huge. Oh and did I mention much cheaper than jacking that truck up. But to each his own. Enjoy what you do. If you are going to lift that thing I wouldn't change a single thing till you wheel it a little. You don't have to go over the big boy stuff right away. Learn your truck, and see what might help you do more of what you want.

if you do an SAS do plenty of research on how much it is going to cost.it'll be 4000 at the cheapest but more likely 5000 unless you do a lot of fabwork yourself but definately look at all the previous threads about it and you'll get a good idea on how many things you are actually going to need for the swap...to list a few things you'll need...front axle(and rear if you go to one tons).spring hangers for the front(swap kit).crossover steering.trac bar.leaf springs and a lift for the rear.brakelines.wheels and tires.driveshaft work.plus miscalaneous things.im currently doing one on my 90 chevy k1500 the thread is in this section

I did my SAS for under $1500.

I did my SAS for under $1500.

how'd you manage that?

how'd you manage that?

A lot of trips to pick n pull instead of buying new parts, and i got my leafs and axle for cheap cheap. 40 bucks from a buddy of mine.

I did my SAS for under $1500.

You're lucky... A D60 alone around here runs about 1000-1500.

You're lucky... A D60 alone around here runs about 1000-1500.

Yeah, that's y i have a shitty 10 bolt instead. But i'm only running 33's cus it's also my dd. A dana 60 isn't always needed, that's goin on my next truck haha.

thats pretty cheap but for someone who actually uses the SAS to do some serious wheelin it will cost more