Just about to shave my Reverse D60's... plan so far is to shave about 1.5" off, then weld on 0.5" plate (1" better clearance). Figure that there may be a little to come off the ring gear, but no more than 1/4"...

Question - anyone who has done this had any failures? Ring gear failures? Housing failures? Weld failures? etc?

ie. any failures relating to cutting and welding the cast steel housing, or ring gear breakages from excess shaving.

Oh yea - and any advice on the best welding technique for mild steel on to cast steel... I won't do this myself as my welding skills terminate at mild-mild steel, but want to make sure the guy who does it does it right.

Talk to EasyXJ. He did a sick job on his 60s.

Originally posted by FireTruck
Oh yea - and any advice on the best welding technique for mild steel on to cast steel... I won't do this myself as my welding skills terminate at mild-mild steel, but want to make sure the guy who does it does it right.

Cast steel? I'm under the impression that Dana center chunks are nodular iron, which would require the use of a stainless or high nickel rod. Search on this, it's been discussed quite a bit for SOA folks.

Bryan

well i have done 2 so far, but i am by no means an expert,, i used 1/4 plate would use prolly 3/8 next the 1/4 is holding up but its not pretty...lots of heat before and after u weld...u dont want to hear the ting ting sound.. that is bad.. when u make your first cut on the housing leave some extra..if u take too much off at first its no good..Cast grinds easy..To cut the housings i used a cicrualar saw with abrasive blade. I made a rip fence and bolted it to the housing using the covers bolts. this makes a nice straight cut..I used a nomacast rod from forney. im sure some of the welders on the board may have a better suggustion but it work good for me

If done right there should be no problem, just make sure you burn the weld in really well, or it will leak, and let it cool down slowly, when you weld on a housing, its a good idea to barry it in dirt so it will cool slowly.

Originally posted by Jeepmangled87
If done right there should be no problem, just make sure you burn the weld in really well, or it will leak, and let it cool down slowly, when you weld on a housing, its a good idea to barry it in dirt so it will cool slowly.

Try wrapping the housing in household insulation material after welding. Seems a little easier than burying the whole damn thing.
Unwrap it a week later and it will still be warm.

Hate to do this...no I don't...have you tried a search. Damn, this topic was just updated last week.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76833&highlight=shaved+60

Don't come back until you do some reading, newbie.

Thanks TJBob - you are always helpful...

I don't always have time to search, as my only PC is at work and it is under the watchful eye of big brother (internet useage is monitored). This also means that I am not able to sit on the BB all day every day.

Yes - I had already read that thread. Thanks.

I have done a few. The cast housing welds pretty good but it really takes a big welder to put in enough heat so don't go at it with a 150amp welder. I cut the bottom off with a poart-a-band and then geind it smooth from there. I use 1/2 plate for the bottom to help replace some of the strength I removed by cutting. Alos I am not looking for the ultimate in grond clearence as much as I am a smooth bottom so as to not hang on the lip. I also weld it in 3 passes and weld it in a backstep meathod starting in the center and working out to the cover. Here are a few shots of Adam Ants rear 60
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/shaved601.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/shaved603.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/shaved605.jpg