I have a 1995 F350 with an auto that was GIVEN to me. It runs, motor is stout and it is as clean as a whistle, inside and out. Everything works, but tranny needs a little work. I found another '95 F350 for $500 that has a bad motor but a working manual tranny in it.

How much trouble am I getting into swapping the manual into my truck? Can the auto in mine be built stout enough to last for the cost of a swap? Is this swap worth the trouble? Any computer issues to deal with? Will rear end be what I need?

I know NOTHING about Fords and this truck is nothing but a tow rig and the occasional "can you haul ______ for me?" truck, so I will most likely own it from now on and I want what will be better. Here are pics of my truck and what it will be towing.

PS Donor truck is complete, so I will have option of swapping rear ends as well if need be for gearing purposes.


Thanks in advance!!!! (and flame away if it makes you feel better about yourself.)

truck:
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm20/mrtodd2279/IMG_0027.jpg

trailer and Jeep:
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm20/mrtodd2279/IMG_0033-1.jpg

The biggest difference in Transmissions is, what engine is in front of them. You more than likely have an e4od and a zf5. But all of these are different bolt patterns depending on 351, 460 and Diesel.

Sorry, I was assuming everyone knew, I'm a dumbass.

It has a 7.3 Powerstroke in it.

what trans are you hoping to hook it up to?

Not sure what tranny is in possible donor truck, waiting on email reply. Found a 1995 F350 chassis cab with a bad motor (7.3PSD), but a manual tranny. My truck is a 1995 F350 xcab dually with a 7.3 PSD and an auto. I guess I should have asked in original post, of the MSOD and the ZF tranny's they came with in the 9th gen, which would I want if either? Sorry for the trouble, just learning and thinking as I go here.

The donor truck should have a ZF5 spd.

That swap should work, but you will need (to start with):
doghouse out of the manual truck
clutch master cylinder
pedal assembly
tranny crossmember
probably driveline, not sure there
the gauge cluster if you want it to look correct
neutral safety/clutch interlock wiring swapped
steering column (not a deal breaker, but the correct thing to do)
maybe the speedo cable
maybe the down pipe to clear the manual instead of the auto - not sure at all on that, though.

It isn't hard, but you will need to knock out the pre-punched holes in the firewall for the clutch master.
Make sure the new truck has the frame holes necessary for the manual crossmember (it should have them from the factory, or you can drill them but pita)

Since you have two complete trucks, this should be an easy one.

The donor truck should have a ZF5 spd.

That swap should work, but you will need (to start with):
doghouse out of the manual truck-Have it
clutch master cylinder-on donor truck
pedal assembly- on donor truck
tranny crossmember- should be on donor truck
probably driveline, not sure there- Blumenthal's
the gauge cluster if you want it to look correct- What would be different?
neutral safety/clutch interlock wiring swapped- Check!
steering column (not a deal breaker, but the correct thing to do)- Not questioning you, just curious why this would need changed.
maybe the speedo cable- on donor truck
maybe the down pipe to clear the manual instead of the auto - not sure at all on that, though. Probably get some aftermarket stuff for this, Banks?

It isn't hard, but you will need to knock out the pre-punched holes in the firewall for the clutch master.
Make sure the new truck has the frame holes necessary for the manual crossmember (it should have them from the factory, or you can drill them but pita)

Since you have two complete trucks, this should be an easy one.

So, if the donor truck has a ZF and has not been gutted, I should have everything i would need to do this other than a few bolts, etc. here and there, seals and RTV, right?

Now the other question. How much better will this be, if any better at all, than the E40D in it now? Is it worth the time and effort over just sending the auto out to get "built"?

PS Thnx a million for the input and help guys!!!!!

Now the other question. How much better will this be, if any better at all, than the E40D in it now? Is it worth the time and effort over just sending the auto out to get "built"?

ZF5 is a hell of a good tranny. They aren't quite as stout as the NV4500, but they still kick the ever living dog shit out of a stock E40D.

ZF5 is a hell of a good tranny. They aren't quite as stout as the NV4500, but they still kick the ever living dog shit out of a stock E40D.

Cool, since it is only a tow rig, dedicated, hopefully it will work well.

Funny, I go from a man to auto in Jeep and going from auto to man in tow rig. Can you say schitzo???

Is this a wise swap both for the sake of durability and cost? Remember, my truck was free, and donor truck is only $500.

Is this a wise swap both for the sake of durability and cost? Remember, my truck was free, and donor truck is only $500.

You'll have $500 and about a weekend into a power stroke tow rig. Cost wise, that's a VERY stupid question. :flipoff2:


Durability wise, the ZF will hold up just fine with the PSD. Just don't plan on doing a lot of boosted launches & power sliding corners. None of the stock transmissions hold up to that worth a fuck :laughing:


EDIT: Looking at your trailer, I would stick a 4.10 rear end under that truck, esp if you aren't DD'ing the truck. Your trans & engine will much appreciate the extra grunt when you've got that big bastard hooked up to it. Granted, your cruise speed will only be 65-68, but you'll love the low gears when you hook that trailer up to it.

the ZF is junk just box it up and send it to me.:flipoff2:

You'll have $500 and about a weekend into a power stroke tow rig. Cost wise, that's a VERY stupid question. :flipoff2:


Durability wise, the ZF will hold up just fine with the PSD. Just don't plan on doing a lot of boosted launches & power sliding corners. None of the stock transmissions hold up to that worth a fuck :laughing:


EDIT: Looking at your trailer, I would stick a 4.10 rear end under that truck, esp if you aren't DD'ing the truck. Your trans & engine will much appreciate the extra grunt when you've got that big bastard hooked up to it. Granted, your cruise speed will only be 65-68, but you'll love the low gears when you hook that trailer up to it.

I knew it was a stupid question, but my stoopid ass wanted to be sure, LOL!

I'm hoping this other truck has a 4.10 under it considering it is a chassis cab, but no telling until i get a reply.

It'll be driven nicely, need it to last until I win the lottery, then all bets are off!!!

I just want to be able to pull around, up and down hills without burning up a tranny or slowing down to walking speed.

Thnx for the input guys, it is REALLY appreciated.

the ZF is junk just box it up and send it to me.:flipoff2:

I'll try it and if it doesn't work, it's yours!!! Deal?

I would rather have an auto, but thats just personal preference. I have an Auto in my 99 Superduty, and my brother has the 6 speed in his 99 Superduty. I hate driving his truck, even for a weekend.

Since your obviously not going to be using the truck as a daily driver, then conducting the swap is probably smarter. But if I were going to be driving it regularly I would wait until the tranny blew and then give BTS a call for a new transmission.

I've heard that more than a few times, but I have had SHITTY luck with auto transmissions in trucks, I'm just jinxed! I would rather replace clutches than rebuild autos. First 1 was a 96 GMC 4WD 3500 with a 4L80E and a 350, and it couldn't get out of its' own fucking way without burning up the tranny, so just as it was crapping out for the 3rd time, I traded it in on an '06 Dodge CTD 2500 4WD. Torque converter on this one took a shit at 31K miles and was on its' 3rd tranny rebuild by the time I traded it with 52K on it. This one, I was pretty sure it was going to be an issue, but at the price, hard to turn down.

So, that's why I'm swapping...

Got an SM465 laying in the garage, wish I could put that in it!

The donor truck should have a ZF5 spd.

That swap should work, but you will need (to start with):
doghouse out of the manual truck
clutch master cylinder
pedal assembly
tranny crossmember
probably driveline, not sure there
the gauge cluster if you want it to look correct
neutral safety/clutch interlock wiring swapped
steering column (not a deal breaker, but the correct thing to do)
maybe the speedo cable
maybe the down pipe to clear the manual instead of the auto - not sure at all on that, though.

It isn't hard, but you will need to knock out the pre-punched holes in the firewall for the clutch master.
Make sure the new truck has the frame holes necessary for the manual crossmember (it should have them from the factory, or you can drill them but pita)

Since you have two complete trucks, this should be an easy one.

This is all you basically have to do. I am actually going through the same thing with my bronco right now. For $500 the manual swap is the way to go. You will spend 5 times that amount just to get a decent auto tranny for the truck and still could burn it up in a year or two.

Got an SM465 laying in the garage, wish I could put that in it!

You would until your first road trip. The 465 lacks overdrive. Cruising at 55 would just suck ass

The ZF is not weaker than the NV4500, I'm not sure where are you getting your information from. The only drawback potentially is the aluminum case's resistance to impacts vs an iron case. The nominal difference in max torque vs. GCVW is minimal.

The ZF is an awesome transmission and will suit a 7.3 very well in most circumstances. I would make sure you know the thing works as the diesel ZFs found in vehicles that tow frequently are usually more worn due to quick shifts than gas versions.

You can also build an E4OD to handle the vigors of towing, although it will definitely cost you a bit to do it. I'm sure there are plenty of threads on the intar-web on E4OD buildups so I will leave that one to you.

make sure you do away with the dual mass flywheel they suck

http://www.dial-a-clutch.com/category_s/28991.htm

The ZF is not weaker than the NV4500, I'm not sure where are you getting your information from. The only drawback potentially is the aluminum case's resistance to impacts vs an iron case. The nominal difference in max torque vs. GCVW is minimal.

I'm just going off of my experiences. I've pulled a lot more ZF's with broke or stripped inputs/cluster gears than I have NV4500's. Irregardless if it was a ZF or NV that was blown up, I can safely say every one has been cases of the driver being stupid with the skinny pedal and tuner settings.

make sure you do away with the dual mass flywheel they suck

+1, the stupid bastard that came up with that idea needs flogged.

Cool, thnx guys!!