I am building my 85 CJ 7 with Rubi D44s. I've got it to a rolling chasis so far and I'm now rebuilding the 258 and plan to get it all back together this spring/summer. I am building this for my wife and family so it is pretty mild. So far it has Rubi 44s with 2" skyjacker leaves SOA, 35" boggers. I'm flipping the D300 and still unsure about the tranny. I need to try and keep the D44s together with the 35's, so I'm looking for info on mods for the Rubi D44s.
I am probably going to swap the 4:10 to 4:88 and replace the stock shafts once they give out and sleeve/gusset the front 44 before I bend the tube.
What parts are you guys using to beef these axles up? Gears, shafts, sleeve kits, etc.
I got a good deal on the axles so I am going to make them work for this Jeep. I have a set of 1 tons for my CJ 5 but that is for a later build.

First of all, 7" (SOA nets 5", + 2" springs)of lift for 35's? :rolleyes: That's enough to clear 37's easily.

4:88 is going to be low for the street unless you have a 4 speed auto or 5 speed stick. And you are asking how to get the Rubi D44's to hold up to 35x16 boggers right? Chromo shafts is all you need, and I would doubt even that. There are great kits out there for these axles, you can run 33 and 35 spline shafts I believe with an ARB if you like as well. It's all money. I still think your jeep is way the hell to high for 35's though. And from what I know o the Rubi axles, they will hold up to 37's with chromo shafts good enough. Your running a 258, not a SBC chevy, so you won't have a ton of power/torque to snap crap.

First of all, 7" (SOA nets 5", + 2" springs)of lift for 35's? :rolleyes: That's enough to clear 37's easily.



37's with fender trimming. 35's fit nicely without cutting. It's a CJ, not a YJ.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=249533&stc=1&d=1150088037

On TJ Rubi axles, the factory axle shafts have a tendancy to egg out at the u joint holes and spit the caps. Chromo's will fix that.

On JK Rubi axles, the C's are pretty weak and bend frequently. Gusset kits are available.

Which version you running?

I am planning on moving up to 37s but the boggers were pretty much free with 90% tread life left. I don't want to do the SOA but the steering doesn't look like it will clear, the track bar runs into the leaves with the SUA and I don't want to spend the money for high steer so I am stuck with the SOA.

37's with fender trimming. 35's fit nicely without cutting. It's a CJ, not a YJ.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=249533&stc=1&d=1150088037
You have any more pics of your cage? You running stock axles?

Link to cage build:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=249533&stc=1&d=1150088037

Currie HP 9"front 60" wms, scout 44 rear.

37's with fender trimming. 35's fit nicely without cutting. It's a CJ, not a YJ.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=249533&stc=1&d=1150088037

True, but I can clear 35's on my jeep with 4" of lift with some rubbing (but who cares about rubbing?:grinpimp: )

Nice CJ. To the OP, okay that makes more sense, LCOG is the most important thing to keep in mind, although clearance sure is mighty fine at times! And I would assume you had to outboard the springs for this, right?

On TJ Rubi axles, the factory axle shafts have a tendancy to egg out at the u joint holes and spit the caps. Chromo's will fix that.

On JK Rubi axles, the C's are pretty weak and bend frequently. Gusset kits are available.

Which version you running?
they are the JKs

True, but I can clear 35's on my jeep with 4" of lift with some rubbing (but who cares about rubbing?:grinpimp: )

Nice CJ. To the OP, okay that makes more sense, LCOG is the most important thing to keep in mind, although clearance sure is mighty fine at times! And I would assume you had to outboard the springs for this, right?
I made my own sring perches in the front to mount the wider axles but now the steering is giving me issues. I am planning on trimming the tub and fenders so the SOA isn't needed but looks like the cheapest way out to get the track bar to clear. I haven't seen any high steer arms for the rubi 44s so I am not sure $ but I know it is more then i look to spend.

I made my own sring perches in the front to mount the wider axles but now the steering is giving me issues. I am planning on trimming the tub and fenders so the SOA isn't needed but looks like the cheapest way out to get the track bar to clear. I haven't seen any high steer arms for the rubi 44s so I am not sure $ but I know it is more then i look to spend.

Will a tie rod flip help? Poly Performance sells a reamer for that.

Also if you are running leaf springs, why are you worried about a track bar?

tie rod flip? explain please.

Imagine the tie rod and or draglink come in above the steering arm instead of below. In other words, flipped.

I tried that but the tab for the track bar doesn't give me enough room for the balistic rod ends and 5/8 bolt. I thought about removing the tab and bolting the drag link and track bar together on the pass side but it looks too weak. The bolt would snap without sandwiching the tab between the rod ends. right?

Also if you are running leaf springs, why are you worried about a track bar?

Agreed, track bar is not needed with a properly put together leaf spring setup.

Will a tie rod flip help? Poly Performance sells a reamer for that.

Also if you are running leaf springs, why are you worried about a track bar?
I am problably calling it the wrong name. Track bar goes from knuckle to knuckle and the drag link from pass knuckle to pitman arm. Correct?

tie rod goes knuckle to knuckle. Use tie rod ends, not joints for best results.

Pardon me if Im wrong on this, but dont the Rubicon 44's have D30 outers?

To clear something up...the 258 doesnt tear up any records for horse power, but the torque is impressively significant. And that's where stuff starts breaking ;)

so what gears, shafts, sleeves, etc. are you guys stuffing into these axles? for now I am really looking to upgrade the shafts first. I have heard good things about the TEN Chromo shafts as far as warranty but don't know anyone using them.

I am looking into the Burnsville sleeve/ gusset kit. The price seems right but couldn't find any reveiws. Any one use this kit before for the jk axles?

I dunno about that but Poly has a nice looking kit to do that.

Have you tried the JK board yet for tech on these axles?

http://www.jkowners.com/

Have you tried the JK board yet for tech on these axles?

http://www.jkowners.com/

I tried there but all I found was talk about installing them, not really about how they held up or other issues after the install.

I dunno about that but Poly has a nice looking kit to do that.

Thanks, the poly ones are 10$ cheaper. I need to check shipping but they look nice.