Ok! I finally busted a GBR 110 extreme cage CV a week or two ago while pulling a sand bogged rangie out of a drift @ Pismo ( who can post a pic for me ? )....

I have the GKN torque limiters, and my CV's lasted about 3 years with 35's on hard core trails ( while many other similar rigs busted )... I finally broke with 37" boggers.... SO me thinks the 37" boggers may be on the upper end ( of course wailing on the gas in the sand up to my sliders with the blower at full boost and a stuck pig rangie on my pintel didn't help :D )

So.... what do I do... which is best?

A) More 110 CV's but longfielded ( frozen, welded ) prolly source parts from UK

B) Tim Coopers UJ conversion

C) Tim Coops UJ's and part time LT230

D) Bills New CV's ( got any info ? )

E) Dana 60's


Keep in mind we are about to have a kid and the wife would prefer option A due to nesting instincts and she'd rather see money spent on the little one for a while!

Also... the CV busted at the flange ( or GKN device for me )...
Don't know what if any carnage lies inside... but never seen a break like this before!

I'll post it tom

So did you pull the rangie out after/with the broken CV?

careful! don't want to get your new shoes dirty in that icky sand:flipoff2:

group shot

So.... what do I do... which is best?

A) More 110 CV's but longfielded ( frozen, welded ) prolly source parts from UK

B) Tim Coopers UJ conversion

C) Tim Coops UJ's and part time LT230

D) Bills New CV's ( got any info ? )

E) Dana 60's


What I'd like to know is how the 110 CV compares in size and strength to the toy truck ones that are being flogged by guys with 38+ tires and hardly any breaks. If they are comparable, and you didn't break anything else inside that may be the best cost/strength way. I am considering Longfielding my 110 CVs while they are still relatively new so I'd be interested in what you find out if you go that route.

Johnathan

PS- what color is that 90 softop in the background, doesn't look arles blue like the wagon in the same shot.

Johnathan

Were is the pic of the broken part?

I'd opt for a D60! :flipoff2:

Actually, for me, it all gets down to economics. I dunno' what you paid for the 110 CV (EXXTREEAM GBR Cv's), but I do know what Coope charges for his milled 4340/297x axles...And I don't know what Billy paid for his supper 110 cv stuff...But basically, for me (and 1.5 kids'...the .5 is the one in the oven!) it would get down to how many times I wanted to pay for the supper high dollar stuff when it does break. Of course your breakage situ was extreme, and you did go 3 years, so that's not toooooo bad of a return on investment, but it's a lot more than a oem spicer part with similar breakage frequency.

If I were you I would look into running either a hybrid 9" with 60 outers with 35 spline inner and outer axles...Or a built D44 with CTM's and off the shelf warn shafts. Sure the initial cost outlay hurts, but not too bad if you sell your current set-up complete with all the good stuff you have in it. I betcha' the overall cost wouldn't be that bad in the end, especially now that your faced with the prospect of replacing all the high dollar stuff.

I was very pleasantly surprised at how little out-of-pocket I had to spend on my build up after I sold literally EVERYTHING out from under my 90.

My .001 cent's.

--D

Ok, watch out, it's me chiming in again.

Taking into consideration the new Walsh that's on the way (congrats), I'd go with option A.

Reasons:

1. Quick, easy, cheap and predictable

2. See reason 1.

Anything else and you're looking at months of R&D. Coopers axles (as sweet as they are, I have a pair), are going to take you FOREVER to get them. Besides, they may not make any more of them, so that option (as super sexy cool as it is) might not be an option anymore.

Get the 110 CV's. Don't longfield them, just run them. Do the Longfielding another time and spend your $$$ on the young'un.

When's she due!?!? (you'd better be nervous man!!!)

Originally posted by Jtisdale
PS- what color is that 90 softop in the background, doesn't look arles blue like the wagon in the same shot.

Johnathan
I don't know the exact color but I woud call it saphire blue. It was originally yellow. That is one of the first D90's I tried to buy and one of the first I got to look at up close. The guy had it in a warehouse and left me to look at it for as long as I wanted. I must have been there for 2 hours.

Originally posted by tomw

I have the GKN torque limiters, and my CV's lasted about 3 years with 35's on hard core trails ( while many other similar rigs busted )... I finally broke with 37" boggers....


I gotta say if they lasted 3 years, just source new ones from the UK and send them to be "Longfielded". Plus someone else needs to do it first before I try it.

I ordered my D110 CV's from Bearmach in the UK, they were 128 pounds each. Not too bad and they are Spicer parts. I am convinced that if we can get the Spicer P/N for these that maybe we can somehow skip the middle man and order them directly from Spicer.

Just some thoughts.

Originally posted by RockRover
Were is the pic of the broken part?

I'd opt for a D60! :flipoff2:

Actually, for me, it all gets down to economics. I dunno' what you paid for the 110 CV (EXXTREEAM GBR Cv's),



I paid more than I would have liked to.. but they lasted for me for long enough!

Originally posted by RockRover

but I do know what Coope charges for his milled 4340/297x axles...And I don't know what Billy paid for his supper 110 cv stuff...But basically, for me (and 1.5 kids'...the .5 is the one in the oven!) it would get down to how many times I wanted to pay for the supper high dollar stuff when it does break. Of course your breakage situ was extreme, and you did go 3 years, so that's not toooooo bad of a return on investment, but it's a lot more than a oem spicer part with similar breakage frequency.


How much for Coops Stuff?

I talked to Bilster today, I'm going to order some UK 110 CV's for now and then see what the CTM stuff brings ( I like them 37's man! )..... at the moment this meets the cost vs engineering/time curve I have available! PS: your .75 kids ahead ( for now! :D )

I will post pics of the breakage tomorrow on the other thread!

Originally posted by Serious One
Ok, watch out, it's me chiming in again.

Taking into consideration the new Walsh that's on the way (congrats), I'd go with option A.

Reasons:

1. Quick, easy, cheap and predictable

2. See reason 1.

Anything else and you're looking at months of R&D. Coopers axles (as sweet as they are, I have a pair), are going to take you FOREVER to get them. Besides, they may not make any more of them, so that option (as super sexy cool as it is) might not be an option anymore.

Get the 110 CV's. Don't longfield them, just run them. Do the Longfielding another time and spend your $$$ on the young'un.

When's she due!?!? (you'd better be nervous man!!!)

See #1 for now!!!

She is Due about Nov 18-20.....
Nnnnnnervous ..... Nnnnot Mmmmmme!

I can build a rover, rebuild a house, build/design/architect a computer or router....
But a little girl.....
Yikes!




:) :)

Originally posted by tomw


How much for Coops Stuff?



Last time I checked he said "approx $16-1700". He wanted to stay under GBR's extreme CV assembly cost by a C note or so...Note that that is without CTM's! Toss in another $300 if you want to go that way (must).

Man...When I look at what I just typed I shudder. A 1.28" diameter Warn axle with CTM's cost just about the same as my, locked and geared, rebuilt disk-breaked D60 AND D70...Whoa!

Don't worry about raising a little girl man...I was in the SAME boat you are about 3.5 years ago...It's been, and continues to be, the BEST experience I've ever had...Everyday is a new and wonderful adventure in both happiness, wonder and patience! (of course in about 11-12 years I probably won't be singing this song, but 11+ years is a way's off yet!)

It's times like these that make it worth it....

(course there are the OTHER times too.....)

Hey,

I also have a bunch of nice studio shots that I took of the axles we put in the front of the Serious One if you guys really wanna see them. If you know what a UJ axle looks like then there will be no surprizes.

I just took some nice spline end shots, various details, etc..before we put them in.

Anyway...just thought I'd see if anyone wants me to post them before I threw up more wasted BW.

:flipoff2:

I betcha' your gonna' miss the beach trips eh?

That's the ONE thing that I missed when I left Kalifornia...Amanda has seen the ocean, but doesn't "know" it....

O'well...12.5K mtn peaks outside my kitchen window are okay too!

--D

Well guys, don't forget there's another option on the way. I'm working with CTM to make his own shafts and u-joint set to bolt into our front axles. No results yet, but he's confident he can make something fit. I'll make sure to test out the first couple sets extra hard in order to be sure they'll hold up!

-John

John-

Direct bolt in complete assembly(inner,uj,outer)? What are you doing for a lock-out hub? Sounds cool...ballpark $$?

Johnathan

A D44 yoke w/a 297x UJ does fit in the swivel ball housing...I found (at NAPA) inner axle seals that would fit the 1.31" dia axle too. I was thiiiiiissssss close to making it all happen, when I decided to go with the 60...Bottom line was that I was still worried about the R&P strength of the LR or Toy.

The one thing that will have to be done is significant (relative) machining to the stub axle. Not too much though...Just enough to accommodate the spindle...And cut down and re-splined of course.

Warn blank 4340's would work awesome for this...Run a part time t-case (Timm is making a run of them next week! finally...) and your good to go.

I was going to commission Timm to do the machine work for me on the stub...He's done it already and knows the tricks. Then we got down to price and, well, it wasn't so cheap anymore.

I then discovered that, IMO best option, (and come very close to this also) was to cut off a waggy D44 off near the knuck...About 2" or so, of tube showing from the C knuckle. Then cut a LR swivel ball off right where the ball hit's the cast tube-like portion prior to the flange (approx. 2" as well). Turns out that the OD of the swivel "tube" and the ID of the waggy tube were very close...Just a little turning (truing) would make an interference fit...Pop the two together weld up and presto...A LR/D44 hybrid...Very simple and bolt on/off with our housing. Then all you would have to do is drill some rotors to the LR bolt pattern (mosser), cut down and re-spline some inners and your done...

Dunno' why I didn't...Might still do it.

D,

Or you could just buy my whole front axle complete!

I'm getting ready to be the next prototype poster child for Timm's heavy duty axle conversion (you know the one....)....

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Serious One
D,

Or you could just buy my whole front axle complete!

I'm getting ready to be the next prototype poster child for Timm's heavy duty axle conversion (you know the one....)....

:flipoff2:

Aw right! Spill the beans! I'd like to see the CTM option but what are you talking about?

Either way should I give Coop a call and a get a part time T-case??? Will it work with my underdrive?

Timms number?

Oh yeah, I am looking forward to the little one :)

Ahhhh,

This is where my Jedi training in patience pays off. The "HD" axel have been on my mind for a year or so. It will be nice t see it in production. After talking with Timm last weekend, I realized the pieces are comming together.

Timm can be reached at www.bcboffroad.com

as for the HD...think old school, series one/M37 old school.

-Jeff

Originally posted by JSBriggs
Ahhhh,

This is where my Jedi training in patience pays off.

as for the HD...think old school, series one/M37 old school.

-Jeff

You and me both Briggs!

Yeah, he means old scholl OLD school, as in no one really knows what you're talking about when you're talking about it OLD SCHOOL.

I don't want to spill the beans for Cooper and this really super cool extra strong very custom run CTM away with his tail between his legs strong axle conversion, so you'll have to talk with him directly.

I'm heading over to Paso Robles this morning and will be there all weekend working on my crewcab. Lots of pics starting next monday for sure. Maybe a sneak peak at what he's working on.

TomW,

Yeah, the part-time conversion will DEFINITELY work with your underdrive.

Think about it this way. When you are in normal 4wd in your T-case, with the part time conversion you are in 2wd. When you engage diff-lock on your t-case you are engaging 4wd/difflock with the part-time conversion.

If you are in 4wd you are diff locked all the time with no option of running 4wd the way we used to way back when. You're gonna LOVE doing donuts in your 90! (I was doing them in the LWB the other night and peel outs yesterday in the rain!!!!). :eek: :eek:

Give Cooper a call, but keep it short he's supposed to be working on my stuff!!!! (talking like a jealous lover I suppose.....) (ewwwwwwwww!!!!!)

IOW, don't make any 'final decisions' just yet about your axles.

Mike, give me a call or drop me an email - your PM box is saying its full.

Simon