Thought I'd share what I am working on. As many of you know I have been slowly building up my Samurai with a 13B rotary engine. Well things grew, and before I knew it, I was trying to stuff a couple of toyota t-cases in there too. I just couldn't squeeze it all under the Zuk and keep the wheel base under 100 inches, so I scrapped it, and am going for the Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo. This is a 2.0 that packs 195 HP and 203 ft/lbs into a small package. Think of it as V6 power, with out all the weight.

With mods to the turbo and breathing, these numbers can easily be increased. The bottom end can support 400 hp in stock trim. This is the motor used in the Eclipse, Talon, Laser vehicles (aka DSMs). there is a huge aftermarket for these cars. My doner vehicles in a '93 Eclipse GSX that was rolled. Has 87,000 miles, and looks like new under the hood.

I have updated my web iste, and have taken a few pictures, etc. Just got the engine doner car running last night, so this is the very start, but I hope to have this installed ASAP into the Samurai.

By the way, this engine will mate up to the Toyota W56 transmission, and twin t-cases via a custom bellhousing.

You can hit the WWW button below, or go to:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/UPDATES.HTML

Let me know what you think about this one.

-Wayne

Glad to see someone is after my Worlds Longest Buildup title....hehehe....still got beat Poppy though!

Seriously that looks like something with potential, who makes the bell?

Originally posted by scwafish
Glad to see someone is after my Worlds Longest Buildup title....hehehe....still got beat Poppy though!

Seriously that looks like something with potential, who makes the bell?

The Zuk has been down for 2 years. Been wheeling borrowed rigs, or my stock Tracker, or just fill a passenger seat.

The bell is custom, and I'll probably have to change the oil pan and pick up. might need to flip the throttle body to the other end of the intake manifold also.

-Wayne

if your gonna go DSM, i would look into the 6g72, aka the mighty max 4x4 motor, tranny and tcase.

6g72 is also the same block code used for the 3000GT :D How does 320 HP and 320 lbs torque sound?

Originally posted by Destroyer Dychen
if your gonna go DSM, i would look into the 6g72, aka the mighty max 4x4 motor, tranny and tcase.

6g72 is also the same block code used for the 3000GT :D How does 320 HP and 320 lbs torque sound?

I can build the 4G63 up to those numbers pretty easy, and be a lot lighter at the same time. Not to mention having more room for my 37's to come up into the engine bay. Besides I already have my engine, and they cost a lot less the the V6.

But it does sound like it would make for a fun swap.

-Wayne

hows the bottom end torque on the fast and frivalious 4g63?

i'm glad to see someone looking towards DSM, it seems everyone wants toy or chevy.

Originally posted by Destroyer Dychen
hows the bottom end torque on the fast and frivalious 4g63?

i'm glad to see someone looking towards DSM, it seems everyone wants toy or chevy.

The DSMs are all 3,000 lbs or more. A typical Samurai build up is about the same weight, maybe even a bit less. Needless to say, the DSMs do not suffer from having to small an engine. Low end power is good. It is not V6 good, but it will clean the clock of anything Suzuki put into production. Lets face it, we are talking about a pretty healthy 2 liter engine, then we throw a turbo in the mix.

With that said, torque is not an issue when you are building up a vehicle with dual t-cases. The torque is mostly just used around the streets. Now if you don't have duals, or good gearing, then Yes, torque is a bigger issue.

Looking forward to ripping into the car tonight. :-)

-Wayne

Originally posted by Destroyer Dychen
hows the bottom end torque on the fast and frivalious 4g63?




:laughing:

Good One :D

Update-

I had to change the exhaust cam pulley as it had been damaged. Once I had that done, I took it out for a test spin around the block... All I can say is this is going to be one very different Samurai. That engine has a ton of power and torque. About 200 of each actually. Put all of that into a 3000 lb rig, and you have some get up and go. I don't think highway on ramps will be a problem anymore. :flipoff2: :eek:

I have been tearing about the car, and lebeling everything for the last few night. Should have the engine out soon. Then it gets fun! ;)

I know some racers use the mighty max trans, but I sure don't know how it can handle the power of a modified 4G63 engine. I'm hoping the w56 is up to the task. This is a more power then Toyota had designed it for, and that is if leave the engine stock. (Which I'm not going to do for long.)

The engine is very smooth. reving to 7,000 rpm happens fast, and is butter smooth. If I modulate the throttle, I can hit and hold any RPM I want. i was a little concerned that the turbo would not allow me to ease through the rpm range, but it is not an issue at all. (The VW's seem to have a little more issue with this.) Turbo lag is there, but considering the base engine is a pretty healthy 2.0l, the power is not bad. full boost is available from about 3000 rpm, all the way up. I think the computer will allow you to rev to 8,200 rpm.

Not a bad little engine! :) :eek: :) Not to mention that many seem to have 150,000 miles on the orginal bottom end, and have tweaked up turbos.

I'm very happy with this new engine choice.

-Wayne

Originally posted by rotozuk

I know some racers use the mighty max trans, but I sure don't know how it can handle the power of a modified 4G63 engine. I'm hoping the w56 is up to the task. This is a more power then Toyota had designed it for, and that is if leave the engine stock. (Which I'm not going to do for long.)


I hope you get the zuk running first, before mod'ding the engine.

Originally posted by tdavis


I hope you get the zuk running first, before mod'ding the engine.

Yep, i'll leave it stock, and get past the smog gods. to be honest, I really do not think I will need any more power. (Yeah, yeah, we have heard that one before!)

TDavis, Thanks for the bellhousing! Hope you can make it out to Moab next year!

-Wayne

Cast iron engine ?

Poppy, you gona take that?...........................:D

not sure onthe block yet, I'll know for sure tomorrow, as I should have it out of the car. Got the wire harness pulled out of the vehicle (not much fun.. lots of dash stuff to mess with) everything is now off the engine, just motor mounts and transaxle are left. (i think)

So who is going to buy my rotary? I need the space!

-Wayne

p.s. I Poppy going to take what?

Updated the website with some more pictures and text.

Pulled the engine out last night, and have the engine harness out of the car too. (not a fun job)

Now for the best part of this job.. Since I was lucky enough to find a low miles car with a driveline in great shape, I'm able to sell off a lot of the parts I do not need. This engine is getting pretty cheap! Down to about $200, and that is selling off the parts pretty cheap. Can't beat that! :)

Just hit the WWW button below..

-Wayne

Originally posted by rotozuk
I'm hoping the w56 is up to the task. This is a more power then Toyota had designed it for, and that is if leave the engine stock. (Which I'm not going to do for long.)
Probably will be fine. If you don't start boosting the crap out of the motor.

Get a hold of SuperRunner on the board (his site is http://www.yotapower.com ) - He originally had the turbo toy tranny (R151) in his truck. This tranny holds up to a 350 fine. It wore out and he put in a W56 to get back up for a trail ride. His 7MGTE (Turbo I-6 from a Gen. III Supra) was running north of 450 Hp at that time, I think. He's been through 3 toy trannies and a load of different axle components in his truck - but it's a heavy bitch. His late-model 4runner weighs 5500+ pounds. He'd be the guy to ask.

Let me see if I've got this straight:
1. Updates 1-21 are from your old rotary motor swap.
2. The new motor is *not* a rotoray engine, correct? It's a 4 cylinder 2.0 with a turbo?
3. What is this bellhousing? You said that it was a custom unti, then you said it was something you got from tdavis?
4. How much does the motor weigh? The 2.4L toy 4-banger weighs 450ish and only puts out 120 in stock trim. It takes about $1k to get a 22re up to 140. So this swap has me interested, since I want to get my truck down to 3000 pounds and around 200-250HP.
5. What the "fook" does DSM stand for?

Originally posted by TNToy

Probably will be fine. If you don't start boosting the crap out of the motor.

Get a hold of SuperRunner on the board (his site is http://www.yotapower.com ) - He originally had the turbo toy tranny (R151) in his truck. This tranny holds up to a 350 fine. It wore out and he put in a W56 to get back up for a trail ride. His 7MGTE (Turbo I-6 from a Gen. III Supra) was running north of 450 Hp at that time, I think. He's been through 3 toy trannies and a load of different axle components in his truck - but it's a heavy bitch. His late-model 4runner weighs 5500+ pounds. He'd be the guy to ask.

Let me see if I've got this straight:
1. Updates 1-21 are from your old rotary motor swap.
2. The new motor is *not* a rotoray engine, correct? It's a 4 cylinder 2.0 with a turbo?
3. What is this bellhousing? You said that it was a custom unti, then you said it was something you got from tdavis?
4. How much does the motor weigh? The 2.4L toy 4-banger weighs 450ish and only puts out 120 in stock trim. It takes about $1k to get a 22re up to 140. So this swap has me interested, since I want to get my truck down to 3000 pounds and around 200-250HP.
5. What the "fook" does DSM stand for?

I'll probably keep the boost down to about 20 psi. :p Actually I'll run it stock for a while, and see how things go.

I checked out his website, and found it very interesting. Thanks! I'll have to drop him a line and see whats what.

Updates 20-21 are the rotary swap, plus other things like the axle swap, steering swap, t-case build up etc. Basically what all I have been doing for the last 2 years on the vehicle.. can you say slow?

The new motor is a 4 cylinder 2.0 l turbo from a Mitsubishi Eclipse. That is correct.

The bellhousing is a VERY modified W56 bellhousing. Built one at a time. The bellhousing that came with my transmission was damaged in shipping, so I picked up a replacement from Tdavis. That is the bellhousing that will be modified.

I need to weigh the new engine. Probably drop it on a commercial scale this weekend. Also going to weight the rotary as I never had a solid number on it. Getting 250 hp out of this engine should not be a problem at all. How much does your vehicle currently weigh?

DSM stands for Diamond Star Motors. For more info, check out this link:
http://www.dsm.org/

Think that about covers it.

-Wayne

Originally posted by rotozuk
How much does your vehicle currently weigh?
A *lot* more than 3K. I missspoke. 3K for a toy pretty much means a full-on flyweight tube buggy. I meant 3500. frame & drivetrain, front clip ( or at least a hood & fender skins over tube), firewall, and front seats & floor. Everything else has to go tube. A built fully sheetmetal, un-tubed toyota with all the general buidup items always found in toys(35-38s, dual cases, two toy axles, and so on...) usually runs around 4500.

As I mentioned, superrunner has a late model 4runner (the full hardtop cushmobile kinda hingy) .... so all the extra sheetmetal and d44/60 combo put him around 5500.

Originally posted by TNToy

A *lot* more than 3K. I missspoke. 3K for a toy pretty much means a full-on flyweight tube buggy. I meant 3500. frame & drivetrain, front clip ( or at least a hood & fender skins over tube), firewall, and front seats & floor. Everything else has to go tube. A built fully sheetmetal, un-tubed toyota with all the general buidup items always found in toys(35-38s, dual cases, two toy axles, and so on...) usually runs around 4500.

As I mentioned, superrunner has a late model 4runner (the full hardtop cushmobile kinda hingy) .... so all the extra sheetmetal and d44/60 combo put him around 5500.


He is not a light weight, that is for sure. Do you think you can get a Toyota truck down to 3,500 lbs? That is about 1000 lbs less then the stock weight isn't it? I know on a Zuk, removing the panels and tubing it out just adds weight to the vehicle! (Some people don't realize this yet..) :rolleyes:

My Samurai (what is left of it) has Toyota transmission, twin t-cases, and axles with Saginaw steering, winch, 6 point cage, 37" tires on steel rims, etc.. I'm eager to see what the final build will come in at, but I'm guessing somewhere in the 3,000 - 3,500 lbs range. I don't think you would do without any of the above items, and the Samurai frame and body are as light as they come. (Very good designs actually.)

I have thought about the 4g63 being a possible swap into the trucks.. I'm not sure it would be the engine I would go for if I had a built Toyota. The Supra swap sounds pretty straight forward, and seems to work well. But if I was building up something light with a 4 banger, I'd sure look at the 4G63. I much rather spend my money on this engine then a Toyota 4 banger. Just more fun. ;)

I would also take the 4g63 over the larger displacement Toyota turbo engine. It has a lot more support, and is capable of making much better power. The Toyota will probably make more power when not on the turbo, but that is a very short period of time.

If you really want to build up one of these motors, be sure to get a 6 bolt engine from a 1990 - 1992 DSM (Eclipse, Talon, Laser). The bottom end can handle 400 hp with out any mods. The later 7 bolt, like mine, is not as beefy, but is still good for 300 HP on the bottom end.

I found the list of busted parts on his 4Runner very interesting. I sure hope I'm not going to be blowing through driveline like he has. I really wonder how and where he is breaking things.. Hopefully being about 2,000 lbs lighter should help me. I also wonder how much power he has added to that engine. I'll try and dig him up. Thanks!

-Wayne

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=87083

popped the motor in today. Sure looks nice. :D

(about half way down the page)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/update23.html


-Wayne

That looks like it fits pretty good. Your frame extension looks really long in those pics...how long is it and what kind of springs do you have in the front?

Originally posted by scwafish
That looks like it fits pretty good. Your frame extension looks really long in those pics...how long is it and what kind of springs do you have in the front?

Currently the spring are 85 Toyota 4runner fronts. I may change them over time as they do not seem to flex much. The extension was something like 8 inches, plus the front bumper. I'd have to confirm that, it's been a while. I needed to move the axle forward about 8 inches to clear the firewall with 37" tires, and a shackle reversal set up. I left some extra room in case I go to a larger tire in the future. (I hate tire rubing!) The extension also allows for plenty of room for the winch, radiator, steering cooler, fans and intercooler. I am not running the factory front clip on this vehicle, just the hood.

I did some measurements on some stock Zuks today. I think this engine could fit with the stock front clip, but it would be tight. Where I am placing mine, I would not have room for the radiator & fans, but I have it forward a few inches from the fire wall. This engine produces a lot of power, so a good sized radiator is needed. The engine is a few inches longer than the 1600 16 valve I was comparing it to.

-Wayne

Some shots of the modifications to the Intake manifold. Silly Mitsubishi put the throttle body on the wrong end. :rolleyes:

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021110/waynes1%20534.jpg

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021110/waynes1%20542.jpg

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021110/waynes1%20543.jpg

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021110/waynes1%20544.jpg

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021110/waynes1%20545.jpg

More details here:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/update24.html

-Wayne

Question: What prevented you from running a hole in the firewall for the throttle body, and then running a snorkel up the interior to the top of the cage or something?

Didn't want the intake inside the body, or just didn't want to hack it?

Originally posted by TNToy
Question: What prevented you from running a hole in the firewall for the throttle body, and then running a snorkel up the interior to the top of the cage or something?

Didn't want the intake inside the body, or just didn't want to hack it?


"DOH!":mad:


:D nah, I think the brake booster/master cylinder is in the way.

Originally posted by TNToy
Question: What prevented you from running a hole in the firewall for the throttle body, and then running a snorkel up the interior to the top of the cage or something?

Didn't want the intake inside the body, or just didn't want to hack it?

Have you seen the current body tub? I'm not affriad to hack!

The engine is turbo and intercooled. So pointing the throttle body forward makes for a very clean and short run for the plumbing, thus reducing lag.

Not to mention that I would have to cut a large hole through the master cylinder, brake booster, firewall, and pedal assembly. :eek:

Originally posted by TNToy
Question: What prevented you from running a hole in the firewall for the throttle body, and then running a snorkel up the interior to the top of the cage or something?

Didn't want the intake inside the body, or just didn't want to hack it?

Have you seen the current body tub? I'm not affriad to hack!

The engine is turbo and intercooled. So pointing the throttle body forward makes for a very clean and short run for the plumbing, thus reducing lag.

Not to mention that I would have to cut a large hole through the master cylinder, brake booster, firewall, and pedal assembly. :eek:

-Wayne

Nope.. I'm not affriad to hack at it. (Actually looking for a new body tub though..)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/020612/waynes1%20313.jpg

I got an email about the steering, so here you go. A Saginaw box from a Scout II with the forward facing pitman arm.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/020808/waynes1%20403.jpg

And a shot of the shaved front Toyota axle with skid plate:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/020930/waynes1%20452.jpg

-Wayne

Is that eclipse motor any relation to the 4 cyl 2.0 turbo 200hp motor out of a Toy MR2? That swap crossed my mind a couple times....

Looks like a very cool mod you got going there!!

Don't look now, but somebody bolted a battleship to your left frame rail:eek:

Originally posted by sh996
Is that eclipse motor any relation to the 4 cyl 2.0 turbo 200hp motor out of a Toy MR2? That swap crossed my mind a couple times....

Looks like a very cool mod you got going there!!

Nope, not really related to the MR2 motor, but probably similar in a lot of ways. You might want to do some research on it, and see how all it goes together, and what bellhousing it has. If nothing else I like the numbers.


Battleship on my frame? :p :rolleyes:

-Wayne

Time for some new images of the project.

Here is the intercooler:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20549.jpg

Intercooler in front of the stock Eclipse radiator. I used the eclipse radiator mount doughnuts, and welded them to the stock cross member. Then built up a quick radiator support that bolts to the frame, and topped it off with the Eclipse upper radiator doughnuts, so the radiator is rubber mounted.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20551.jpg

Here is a close up of one of the upper radiator mounts. also shows the simple tabs I made up to mount the twin Permacool fans to the radiator using the stock bolt locations in the radiator. (This fan saves a good inch.)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20553.jpg

side view of the fans, radiator, mount, and intercooler. Note the space between the fans and the engine. (about 2 inches) Want to make sure that air can blow out somewhere, and have a little space for maintenance.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20555.jpg

Had to cut and rotate the turbo output tube. Here it is finished.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20558.jpg

cleaned up the lower left of the engine. (Oil pump, oil heat exchanger, alternator.)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20561.jpg

Located some radiator hoses from the local parts place. (Still need to fab up the hard lines.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20566.jpg

And last one tonight, this shot doesn't show all the work well, but you are looking at all of the vacuum & coolant lines that are on the engine, all plumbed. Also the main wire harness has been modified to work better with the relocated throttle body. I also rerouted the engine harness to work better in my rear wheel drive application.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021125/waynes1%20567.jpg

All changes to the wire harness are soldered, and heat shrink wrapped. I learned not to use crimps on my last motor swap!!

Well that's about it.. Still working on the steering, and should have the ducting for the turbo and hard coolant lines done shortly.

Got a call from the guy doing the modifications to my bellhousing. He had a death in the family, otherwise I would have had it by now. He should have it to me shortly. :D He is tilting the transmission about 10 degrees (stick towards the driver) to allow for better t-case ground clearance.

-Wayne

Very nice dude, it's coming along well. If you don't mind me asking, how much is that custom bellhousing running you?

Don't look now, but somebody bolted a battleship to your left frame rail

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH! Having had IHs for years I can tell you every part on a Scout II is like a friggin battleship whether you paint it gray or not!

I love the forward facing pitman of the IH box but when I held one up to the frame of my zuk it looked like a cartoon. Not to mention those Scout II boxes leak like crazy unless you get the ones with the "good" input shaft (there is a big one and a little one...can't remember which one is the one you want)

Anyone know of a similar style box but that is smaller in overall dimension? Someone told me a Trooper had a similar style box???

Steering box - Yep.. it is pretty beefy. no leaks on this one, but I imagine that may change once it sees preasure after sitting around drying up for the last few months. Ne seals are cheap though, and not hard to install. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a while though.

Bellhousing price - Hmm, good question. So far about $550. That includes the mods to the bellhousing, clutch fork and flywheel, also a special pilot bearing. I still need to source my friction disk. That is down from the $820 I was orginally quoted. :eek: Still not a bad deal when you look at what it would take to get a 22RET (or whatever) up to this level of power, and I can easily grow more power out of this package. Besides my motor was basically free after parting out the doner car. :D

Now if I can just get it all together and running...

-Wayne

Ne seals are cheap though, and not hard to install.

True...but if youve got the "wrong" spline it doesnt matter, your new seals will leak in a couple of weeks...BTDT :crybaby2:

BTW...are going to use the Scout II pitman?

Originally posted by scwafish
BTW...are going to use the Scout II pitman?

Nope.. You need it? It is a big ol' monster. I have selected a nice heavy Ford arm that has the perfect angle on it. I have no idea what it is off of. If that doesn't work, then I have a pitman off an old Camero that is also pretty nice, but not as beefy, and a slightly different bend to it. Both are about 6 inches long.

I was told by the person that I bought the Scout II box from that it had no leaks, and never did for the time he owned the vehicle. I'm sure I can trust him, he is a Suzuki guy. :D Lets stop this line of thought.. I hate oil leaks!!

I just cured the oil leak in my daily driver. It had advanced to a quart of engine oil in 10 miles!!! :mad: The Tracker has developed some rather massive blow by, and it likes to push out the front crank and cam seals. So I now have a vent on my dip stick tube, another on the PVC port on the valve cover, and my oil cap looks like a pepper shaker from all of the holes I drilled in it to aid in venting the blow by. It stills puffs out the pepper shaker, but seems to be holding its oil! Just hope it holds together until about January when I'll be replacing the vehicle. :( The sad thing is that the motor is great otherwise. :rolleyes:

-Wayne

Nope.. You need it?

Thanks for the offer, but nope. I was just making sure you didnt want to use it, because if you use it with any other knuckle other than an IH 44 knuckle (also ridiculously long), it will suck all of the mojo out of you box because your lever ratios will be way out of whack.

Just mounted my clutch master cylinder, and made up some linkage for it. I'd love to see what other have done when adding a hydrolic clutch to their Sam. I thought it would be a simple process, but the linkage took a little head scratching to figure out, but knocked it out in a few hours. The main issue was getting a straight shot at the master cylinder (M/C) rod without getting to much up and down movement. I figured a couple of methods out for doing this. One would be to space the M/C about 2 inches away from the firewall. This would place it in a much better location relative to the clutch pedal.

I ended up doing something a little more creative as I like the clean look of mounting the M/C onto the firewall. I made a lever that is welded to the clutch pedal at a slight angle. I've miss placed my camera, so I'll have some photos later. I'm not going to try and explain it, as a photo will do much better! Basically, the angle keeps the M/C rod rather level through out the travel of the rod. Seems to work pretty well with just a bit of lift at full throw.

Lets see what else have I been working on.. I finished off the radiator support. We modified the intercooler, and mounted it to the radiator support, and I have been working on plumbing the radiator and intercooler. I have been having a hard time locating the needed hoses for the intercooler, and some good mandrel bends for the hard lines.

The cross over steering arm is also complete, and I have been trying to locate a steering u-joint for my Saginaw box, and addressing some of the plumbing issues it has.

Should be getting the bellhousing any time now, and will be picking up my new body tub tomorrow. Will need to strip it down and get it out of site before the weekend.

Time for a nap..

-Wayne

Finished the intercooler mods.. Thanks to my club member Rusty and his TIG welding skills!
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021215/waynes1%20570.jpg

Also picked up a new body tub. Only rust was a bit from a leaky battery on the firewall! Looks to be very low miles. Oh yeah, it was free.:flipoff2:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/021215/waynes1%20572.jpg

Thats about it for now.. still waiting on my bellhosing, but plenty to do. I did install my clutch master cylinder, but no pictures yet.

-Wayne

Sounds good Wayne, have you found your camera yet?
Ken

Originally posted by Slowzuki
Sounds good Wayne, have you found your camera yet?
Ken

Yep,

Left it in the other Samurai. :rasta: You want me to get a picture of the hot blonde or something? :D

-Wayne

Sure the blonde and redhead Chris was talking about too!

The rig looks good, good idea with the cardboard to save the fins too, I think you've used that stuff for everything now!

Does Aaron help you out with this stuff or are ya on your own?
Ken

Originally posted by Slowzuki
Sure the blonde and redhead Chris was talking about too!

The rig looks good, good idea with the cardboard to save the fins too, I think you've used that stuff for everything now!

Does Aaron help you out with this stuff or are ya on your own?
Ken

Cardboard and duct tape, how can you go wrong. :)

Aaron sure comes in handy when I need an extra hand lifting stuff, etc. He is also great to bounce ideas off of, and is quick let me know if he doesn't like something. But for the most part, he is doing his own thing, and I'm doing mine. I'm sure I'll bug him plenty when I get into the ugly mess of wiring. I have limited patience for wiring problems, and he is great reading a schematic, and figuring out the problems. His collection of toys seems to keep him plenty busy these days.

Well.. time to leave work, and fight the traffic.. got to get some more work done on the project.

-Wayne

Time for another installment? Here you go:

A picture of the modifications to the clutch pedal. it has the funny angle to get the full throw of the master cylinder without binding.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030116/waynes1%20577.jpg

Here is a shot of the pedals and steering column all reworked and mounted with the master cylinder in place. The steering shaft works better then new now!
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030116/waynes1%20582.jpg

Here is a look at the Toyota master cylinder mounted on the firewall.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030116/waynes1%20583.jpg

The steering shaft:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20597.jpg

Can you say 37s? This is the first fitting of the tires and rims in the rear, and the new rear suspension.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20585.jpg

A side shot.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20588.jpg

-Wayne

Here is a shot of the new rear suspension. Toyota truck rear leafs inset 4-1/2" to line up with the frame. The Toyotas should help fight axle wrap, and insetting them should allow for some flex I might have lost. The front spring mount will be flush with the frame, so it shouldn't get hung up on anything.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20589.jpg

A shot of the shackle mount on the rear bumper. About the worst part of using the Toyotas is the offset pin design that helps to fight of axle wrap also causes this eye sore, but no biggy.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20593.jpg

Here is the suspension from the rear. Note the stock hangars are still in place for now.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20594.jpg

I love this shot. When it was on the smaller tires, my stool would stop when it hit the axle, not anymore, it has a good inch of clearance! You have to love shaved axles and 37s. :D
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030117/waynes1%20598.jpg

That about it for photos. I still naeed to take some more. On the bright side, I have the t-cases all back together, only had to open them up 4 times as a result of me loosing a little ball during the first attempt. Steering is just about done, and the bellhousing should be on its way!

You can hit the www link button at the bottom of this message for more info on the project.

-Wayne

Posted some pictures of the steering in another thread. But here is one for this thread.

This is a plug that will be welded into the steering links:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030120/waynes1%20601.jpg

Gary TIGing in the plugs:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030120/waynes1%20603.jpg

Gary with the finished links. (looking goofy) note that the ends are also plug welded with a MIG in addition to the TIG edge welds.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030120/waynes1%20605.jpg

cleaned up a bit and installed:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030121/waynes1%20608.jpg

And the rear bumper is just about done for now. Just need some tail lights.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030121/waynes1%20607.jpg

Bellhousing should arrive tomorrow!!

-Wayne

You trust that guy to weld for you?:flipoff2:

Originally posted by DemoMike
You trust that guy to weld for you?:flipoff2:

I hope so! His welds are on more Zuks then probably anyone else short of the robot that welds at Suzuki.

-Wayne

Time for more pictures?

Which calipers would you use? (aka guess which ones I wire brushed and painted ghetto style?)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030123/waynes1%20613.jpg

Drilling holes (next time I pull the bumper off and throw it in the drill press!)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030123/waynes1%20616.jpg

Don't really care fr the finished look. Oh well!
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030123/waynes1%20621.jpg

Throttle cable bracket. Used the Samurai cable.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030123/waynes1%20620.jpg

And a picture of the pitman arm. It is off some big ol' Ford. I found it in a box full of Saginaw style pitman arms at the junkyard. (bolts are just temp.)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030123/waynes1%20623.jpg

Now where is that UPS driver. According to the web site the package was going to arrive today.. Nope!

-Wayne

And a couple of more..

turning it around so I can work on the other side.. amazing how fast you can fill the body up with crap..!:(
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030124/waynes1%20624.jpg

Getting ready for that bellhousing.. Toyota W56 tranny with twin t-cases.

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030124/waynes1%20628.jpg

while I had the Samurai out I hoped in the drivers seat, and that side of the vehicle dropped a good 2 inches. Those rear springs are a lot to soft! collecting some more leafs to throw in the packs.

Off to play at the Hammers tomorrow, but should be back to work on it Sunday.

-Wayne

Things are getting interesting, about 2 months to polish this thing off for Moab, and still lots of work to go. Here are some more pics.

Here is a look at the custom bellhousing. I sure hope it works:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030128/waynes1%20637.jpg

Not what was expecting.. Not even close! :mad:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030128/waynes1%20639.jpg

eventually I got it all to bolt together, but I still do not have the clutch and flywheel installed. (Waiting for a few more parts)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030128/waynes1%20641.jpg

Dropped it into the frame:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030128/waynes1%20645.jpg

Looks really good in there!
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030128/waynes1%20646.jpg

I built up a nice t-case mount bt forgot to take a picture.. :rasta:

What the hell happened to my frame? Flipped for cleaning and welding.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030203/waynes1%20652.jpg

And my rear spring mount with a rock slider. (Frame is upside down.)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030203/waynes1%20653.jpg

All major frame work is now done. Just add some shock mounts, bump stops and a bolt in crossmember.:D

-Wayne

Yeah. Nice custom hack-job that boy did. But hey, as long as it work, right?

I love it when you post to this thread. Gives that extra 10 seconds it takes to swing through the zuk forum a little meaning. :)

Originally posted by rotozuk

Looks really good in there!
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030128/waynes1%20646.jpg


So, what's the distance? And angle?

Did you move the rear axle back any?

This is the kind of shit I like to see and read about, better than reading people flip shit at each other. I would'nt happy with that 550 $ hack job to much myself, as long as it holds up though.



Scott

Who made the bell housing for ya? I can see why your not so happy...I'm too anal to handle that level of "functional". Project is looking good though.

You think the bellhousing looks bad in those pictures? That was after I spent a couple hours cleaning up the shit. He used a wire feed, and had globs of shit all over it. :confused: and it was closer to $650 plus shipping. :eek: Not sure it is going to work at all. Currently the input shaft does not appear to be centered.

The guy that made it is over in Florida, and I was told he had built a few in the past for the drag racing folks. This is how I found out about him actually. I need to confirm the input shaft issues, and go from there. I do have a couple of options if I am facing total replacement.

tDavis- That used to be your bellhousing. :eek: The distance is 20-1/2" in the short distance, and the angle is about 26 degrees. How do those numbers sound to you? I have the t-case only about 3/4" below the bottom of the frame. I can drop it down a bit for a better angle, but I'd really like to keep the clearance. The rear axle is in the stock location. Well, it is centered in the wheel well anyhow. The front axle has been moved forward a bit for a 90 inch wheel base. Kind of needed with 37s and a shackle reversal.

Got stuck at work today, so only painted the bottom of the frame, and cleaned and installed the hubs. Short of brake lines the front axle is done. hope to get everything bolted back on, and see how I need to trim the body to fit over the tranny and t-cases. I'm going to go check out tDavis's thread again.. ;)

-Wayne

20" is the length of my drive shaft.. If you get a 1981-1982 front CV shaft, it will work with no modifications, but it won't last long (it's weak).

The 26degree operating angle leaves little flex/operating room. Mine is about 22degrees, and it works pretty good. To get the 22 degrees, you need to only drop it another 1/2"-1" down. I fretted about it, and then did it - the ground clearance I thought I was loosing was minimumal, and the rear drive shaft became stock, off the shelf, nothing funky really needed. (ie, 1986+ front toyota CV driveshaft, clearanced, and cut down to 20")

As to where to cut - don't cut down into the passenger side like I did. Just take the top off the tunnel - use a jack/BFH to open up the bottom of the tunnel to fit the tranny. As for how much to cut off - I cut back past the handbrake; that was too much, you can just cut back to the front of the handbrake.

I hope that helps.

Originally posted by tdavis
20" is the length of my drive shaft.. If you get a 1981-1982 front CV shaft, it will work with no modifications, but it won't last long (it's weak).

The 26degree operating angle leaves little flex/operating room. Mine is about 22degrees, and it works pretty good. To get the 22 degrees, you need to only drop it another 1/2"-1" down. I fretted about it, and then did it - the ground clearance I thought I was loosing was minimumal, and the rear drive shaft became stock, off the shelf, nothing funky really needed. (ie, 1986+ front toyota CV driveshaft, clearanced, and cut down to 20")

As to where to cut - don't cut down into the passenger side like I did. Just take the top off the tunnel - use a jack/BFH to open up the bottom of the tunnel to fit the tranny. As for how much to cut off - I cut back past the handbrake; that was too much, you can just cut back to the front of the handbrake.

I hope that helps.

That does help. Always great to hear from the real world.

I'm pretty sure I am going to need to add some leafs to my rear springs, this will only make that angle worse. I guess I better drop the t-case a little more. Bummer. I don't have those rock grabbing spring hangars like a normal zuk, so the t-case will be the low point. :(

I have a Toyota CV shaft in my collection, I will check it out tonight.

Interesting that you say that the Toyota shaft is weak as I have been told it is stronger than the Spicer units. SuperTrooper here on Pirate was burning through the Spicer CVs, and went back to Toyotas, and they have been holding up. I think all of the Toyotas in my club are running modified stock shafts. I will have to check on that.

I like the idea of keeping the bends for the tunnel, and using the hammer to open things up a bit. Hey, mayber I'll use the stock jack in there. :)

What did you do for the speed-o cable?

Thanks again!

-Wayne

Toyota vs. Dana/Spicer driveline strength:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111739&highlight=toyota+and+strength

It's the 80-83 CV shafts that are weaker than the 84/85, and 86+ IFS shafts. My rear is a cut down IFS CV shaft; much better than the 80-83 shaft I have as a spare.

I'll try and get a photo of the differences - when you see them side by side, you'll know why.

Pull your speedo cable, grab the speedo gear from the tcase, find a speedometer shop, and have it remade, adding about 2ft to it. Cost me about $70 for that; they will put a toyota end on it. Mine ended up dead on for speed measurement - 35's, 5.29, and not sure what speedo gear combo in the toy tcase.

Originally posted by TNToy
Toyota vs. Dana/Spicer driveline strength:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111739&highlight=toyota+and+strength

Thanks, that is a great thread!

Speed-o shop..Hmm.. Have to find one in the area.. Maybe one of the hotrod shops will know a place. Thanks!!

-Wayne

Originally posted by rotozuk


Thanks, that is a great thread!

Speed-o shop..Hmm.. Have to find one in the area.. Maybe one of the hotrod shops will know a place. Thanks!!

-Wayne

Goto http://yp.yahoo.com, enter your town, enter speedometer, and bingo! you'll get a list of speedo shops.

Originally posted by tdavis
Mine ended up dead on for speed measurement - 35's, 5.29, and not sure what speedo gear combo in the toy tcase. That's because 5.29s and 35s (supposedly) give you a dead-nuts-on speedo reading in a Toy. Since you're measuring of an all-toy drivetrain... it's not terribly surprising.

But I've seen people who have 4.88s (which if you do the math, restores factory gearing in a toy on 33s) claim that 4.88s are ALSO a perfect speedo-match for 35s.

Maybe they're using 33.5" tall 35s like Claws. Whatever. Just be glad it worked out. :)

Roto, you're welcome for the Toy vs. Spicer thread. It helps knowing sopmething is there to FIND with the search if you saw it first posted.

Originally posted by TNToy

But I've seen people who have 4.88s (which if you do the math, restores factory gearing in a toy on 33s) claim that 4.88s are ALSO a perfect speedo-match for 35s.

Maybe they're using 33.5" tall 35s like Claws. Whatever. Just be glad it worked out. :)


When I first started wondering about this, I found that: (according to jim@inchworm, and his bucket of speedo gears)

a) there are 2 possible speedo gears inside the tcase;
b) there about 8 possible speedo gears that can be inserted into the tcase.

It appears that I got a tcase with the right combo - considering stock was, what, 4.10, 4.30, 4.56 and 4.88?

So, was I happy to find this out? No, nobody seems to have documented this.. Was I happy to see it work, dead on? Shocked, giddy, and happy! :D :D The speedo shop I talked to said they could get it dead on if it was off.. Of course, it helped that Goodyear MTR's aren't really true 35's either.. 34.4 according to their website, 34 according to my ruler. :D

Oh, and when I was talking to the speedo shop, they said most toyota speedos turn 1000 cable revs per mile, and that the suzuki speedo may not match that. The suzuki end also matched a german speedo end, which frightened me at first.

Ok, here's a pic of the rear driveshaft.

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/driveshaft.jpg

The top driveshaft is a 86+ IFS front driveline, cut down to 20", and clearanced, from highangledriveline.

The middle driveshaft is a 1979-1983 front driveshaft, stock. You can't really tell, but the CV is smaller on it. The bottom part is a 1985+ slip joint - note that it's longer than the one above it.

I'm assuming that the middle shaft came from a 4 speed. It's the right length, just wrong bolt pattern and bolt hole sizes to work, plus the CV is worn out. It's my spare to get off the trail, so I'm keeping it for now.

There is also several pics of the ends - the bolt patterns and holes are different sizes, and you can see that in the pics.

Zuk Pics (http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk)

Originally posted by tdavis
The bolt patterns and holes are different sizes, and you can see that in the pics.I assume you just rotated the flange on the T-case/3rd member 45* and drilled the new bolt pattern in it?

Originally posted by TNToy
I assume you just rotated the flange on the T-case/3rd member 45* and drilled the new bolt pattern in it?

No, I just popped for the pre-drilled flange for the rear, and I'm already running the CV flanges on the tcase.

Oh, and jesse updated that 1310 vs. Toyota thread about some toy stuff..

:D

Well after much thought and some measureing I decided i better drop the t-case down a bit more. I'm going to add atleast one more leaf to my rear spring pack, so it was only going to make the angle worse. Now i should be pretty comfortable. As an added benefit, I get a little more room around the engine also. But the back of the engine does get a tad bit closer to my firewall.

Started working on my brakelines. I thought this would be a simple fun little job. Hmm.. It isn't bad, but I don't care for the task. Just can't get my crappy bender to do the job, so just used my hands, and they kind of look like it. Oh well.

Also built up some shackles. I was using some old scraps for testing.

My camera died, so no pictures right now.

-Wayne

Got the body on today. Didn't have to cut the tranny tunnel at all. Just opened it up a bit with the stock jack. I knew those things were good for something. Split one seam, and have a couple of new dents, but nothing bad. I might get some contact once the thing sees a load as I have it pretty close in spots, but we shall see. I might even be able to keep the e-brake in the stock location! My rear t-case shifter is very close to the e-brake handle thanks to the 10 degree rotation I have on the t-cases.

Bad news is that my brake master cylinder hits my intake manifold. Any options for shortening or relocating the master? I recall a guy on in the Toyota section running a Ford F350 master with no booster. I think he said it worked well. Comments? Suggestions?

By the way, as the vehicle currently sits, I am 2-1/2" taller than another Zuk we have that is about your normal SPOA amount of lift. But I am on the 37s, and he is on 33s. Not bad. Looks like it will still fit under a garage door. This is with a lot of parts still missing, so it should get a little lower. I like them as low as is practical. Adding a bunch of lift to fit a big tire is easy, but not very practical for the way I use them. my suspension is pretty much your average SPOA with a few twists thrown in for fun.

Still no pictures.. but should be able to take some tomorrow.

-Wayne

PICS man!

Mine is also really low for being on 37s, it still easily fits into my garage. I think the low and wide thing is sweet. Between the stance and the low weight, my zuk feels a million times more stable than my old IH. I'm running stock height YJs in the front, and 1.5 inch CJs in the rear.

The "low" height is why I went through so much trouble tucking everything up into the frame etc. In the end I've got more actual clearance than lots of rigs that are way taller.

As far up as I pushed my tranny and tc, it never would have fit without major cutting. My front output is where the passenger seat mount used to be...I cut the tunnel and the FLOOR!

That's great to hear you got it in with only minor seams busting to repair.

I still haven't made a new/repaired the tranny cover; got sheet metal, just got a few other things I want to fix/do first.

Originally posted by rotozuk
I recall a guy on in the Toyota section running a Ford F350 master with no booster. I think he said it worked well. Comments? Suggestions?
Crash. Apparently it kicks ass.

Before:
http://www.pnw4x4.net/crash//thetoy/4-3swap/43swap7.jpg
http://www.pnw4x4.net/crash/thetoy/4-3swap/43swap15.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37952

OK.. Time for more pictures..

The rear driveline is looking good:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20656.jpg

The frame is all cleaned up and painted:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20657.jpg

My t-case mount after I lowered the t-case so it is about 3/4" below the frame: (note the 10 degree rotation for better ground clearance.)
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20659.jpg

The body clears after a little widening with the stock jack:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20667.jpg

Another shot:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20668.jpg

T-case mount with the body on. had to trim a bit off the top:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20670.jpg

As you can see, the twin t-cases are very close to the body at the stock t-case shifter hole. But it looks like the stock e-brake handle gets to stay!
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20672.jpg

And looking down the stock tranny shifter hole, that is the Toyota shifter.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20673.jpg

Thats enough for this message. I think you might like the next one.

-Wayne

Well this all started off simple enough. I need a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) for the fuel injection. I have had many Samurai gauge clusters apart, so I am pretty familiar with them. I have also had the RX7 and Eclipse cluster apart, and discovered that they are all made by Denso, and are built from similar building blocks.

So I thought I would see about using the Eclipse speedometer in the Samurai housing. You know, just for fun. ;) And it grew from there:

This is what I started with:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20660.jpg

The speedometer was no big deal. Pretty much a bolt in deal. Then I decided to try to install the Eclipse tach. This took a bit more work, but nothing all that special. Pictured is the Eclipse tach inthe Samurai housing with the 2 speedometers in the upper right. The one on the right is the Eclipse unit.
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20661.jpg

The Eclipse tach goes to 9,000 RPM (yes 9) and has a shorter sweep, so that I can have room for this:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20663.jpg

And after a bit of work to make the boost gauge fit, I ended up with this:
http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/030209/waynes1%20664.jpg

I'll make a new overlays for it later. You got to love that 150 mph speedometer in a Samurai! :eek: :eek:

Some of you may be asking why all of that trouble for the boost gauge? Well, it is actually a computer controlled gauge. If I ever upgrade to an aftermarket computer, this gauge is used for displaying information. Besides, its bling-bling.


-Wayne

Nice job Wayne!
Ken

That looks awsome!!

How long you think it will be before you need a boost gauge that goes higher than 14PSI. :evil:

Did you catch my post abot the F350 brake master up a couple screens?

Originally posted by TNToy
How long you think it will be before you need a boost gauge that goes higher than 14PSI. :evil:

Did you catch my post abot the F350 brake master up a couple screens?

It wont be long before I go past 14. The stock gauge is mostly for getting information from the computer, I will have an aftermarket boost gauge also.

Yes, I did see the link on the F350 master. I'm going to go back and read his responses a little later today, and try to figure out a plan of attack. Thanks!!

-Wayne

Did the booty-fab bellhousing work?

looks sweeeet

Originally posted by kd7srj
looks sweeeet Jim Cambou!?! - Is that you? :eek:

yes kd7srj is jim cambou

I know. I actually don't have any idea who you are. I just went to qrz.com and did a lookup on your callsign. You were supposed to get all freaked out and ask how I knew you. :flipoff2:

actually at the bottom of my posts is my web site and my damm name is all over it besides I have allready killed all of my enemys so now i sleep well at night:flipoff2:

What are the white face guage overlays for? If they are your old sam ones, where did you get them? :confused:
I wouldn't mind having the white face ones, just a for change...ore better yet so I can impress all of my ricer "friends" :rolleyes: :D :flipoff2:

some racers use the mighty max trans, but I sure don't know how it can handle the power of a modified 4G63 engine
Actually I have seen a SICK mighty max 4x4 with a 320hp 4G63T in it. You could barely see the frontmount peeking out from behind the bumper :) it was on one of the mischief videos. Anyhow I cant wait to see this swap, I am a DSM faithful, my daily driver is a 95 GSX (awd turbo) and stock #s were actually 210 hp, mine is up to 250 with very little work. I have considered putting one in my samurai, but I dont know how well turbo's will hold up to the kind of abuse I give wheelin rigs. They are pretty delicate little things. Im putting together a 2.0 vitara motor and toyota swap ala TDavis' setup :)

holy old post batman!!!

Since we are on the topic:
Is there a rwd tranny that will mount to this motor. I have a 2wd sammy that I would love to drop this into. I had thought of the swift gt, rotary, and 4agze. I have no issues with tranfercase since I have none.

Im not 100% but I think a Starion tranny might. Dont quote me on it though. Gives you something to research.

Ok I found this info:
http://www.projectzerog.com/transmissions.shtml

Looks like there is a bolt on rwd tranny that is also a cable fed clutch.

Sorry.. This thread is so old that the web site that I hosted all of the build up pics is long gone..

As is the Samurai. I pulled it apart and put the running gear into my buggy. You can check the link below for a build thread on the buggy if you want to see some of the pics of the motor and tans, etc. She is still a good runner, and only recently started running a little rough. Time for a tune up.

As for putting this motor in a Samurai.. I can't recommend it unless you want a street racer. The motor is big and heavy. It does make great power, but the low rpm power (near idle) of these motors in stock trim is pretty poor, about the same as a normal 1300 near idle. The low compression is to blame.

Here are some of the Samurai build up pics:

more

more.. this was the old build thread..

last of them.. Let me know if you are looking for particular detail shots and I'll see what I have.

Now that I'm starting over on a new Zuk it hurts to see these pics.. I parted this sucker out and it is all gone! :(

-Wayne

It's funny that you mention, you would only recommend this swap for a street racer...I plan on dropping this into my 2wd street sammy. According to the site I linked to earlier a 2wd d50 tranny will bolt right up to this motor. Seeing as though I have no 4x4 transfer case to deal with, this swap seems more feasible. I have no clue if the d50 tranny will fit in my tunnel. I will not be running a lift on this build.
Rotozuk: how bad was the electrical set up? I love the gauges in the cluster that idea is tits!! I really wanna source a tach cluster but the late model ones are so hard to come buy and big $$$ it's not worth it. I guess if you swap the entire harness, ecu along with the cluster the main issue would be ignition right. How did you go about the motor mounts? Was alot of fabrication needed or was that pretty straight forward. In a perfect world you would say the dodge 318 mounts bolt right in... lol.

It's funny that you mention, you would only recommend this swap for a street racer...I plan on dropping this into my 2wd street sammy. According to the site I linked to earlier a 2wd d50 tranny will bolt right up to this motor. Seeing as though I have no 4x4 transfer case to deal with, this swap seems more feasible. I have no clue if the d50 tranny will fit in my tunnel. I will not be running a lift on this build.
Rotozuk: how bad was the electrical set up? I love the gauges in the cluster that idea is tits!! I really wanna source a tach cluster but the late model ones are so hard to come buy and big $$$ it's not worth it. I guess if you swap the entire harness, ecu along with the cluster the main issue would be ignition right. How did you go about the motor mounts? Was alot of fabrication needed or was that pretty straight forward. In a perfect world you would say the dodge 318 mounts bolt right in... lol.

Motors mounts.. Haha! If you check my buggy build thread I made up some much better motor mounts for that project:
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne020.jpg
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne021.jpg

The mounts are from Advanced adapters, and I'll use those on all future projects unless I run into something better. Get the rubber version to tame the vibes.

But keep in mind that I flipped the turbo and flipped the intake also. I highly recommend these changes to cut down on the amount of plumbing. You can also look into rerouting the engine cooling. I imagine there is a Suzuzki/Mitsubishi/Nissan water neck that will fit the Mitsu water pump that will make much better sense. I simply used parts of the frame on the buggy for water lines.

You will need to either move your brakes, or flip the throttle body to the front of the engine. I don't see any way around this in a Samurai install. Will make far shorter turbo plumbing too.

Space - If you are trying to make a sleeper, I have no idea how you will squeeze the motor, radiator and intercooler into the limited space of the Samurai sheetmetal. I think you better take measurements first to make sure you can. Best solution might be to cut out the firewall and move the motor back.

Your 2wd Samurai does actually have a t-case, but you will not need to keep it. If this is a rust free car, and you are near me, I'd be interested in buying it from you. Go buy a beater 86-88 that needs a motor or something, but has a good body. Don't go cutting up an EFI sammy.

The Mighty Max/D50 2.0 trans will work, but I have heard from some that the trans does not hold up well to the turbo abuse. Small bearings and the such. It was designed for a motor that didn't even make 100hp. There is a guy in Ohio that should be able to supply you with a bellhousing that will bolt up to a Toyota Supra trans. That will work much better for you!! Smooth shifting, reliable, and some gear choices. He goes by the name of Wild Bill on the internet. I should be able to dig up some contact info for him.

Wiring is a pain in the ass. Just get rid of the Suzuki stuff and run the DSM stuff. That will make things easier. Thin the harness as you see fit.

Tennycar here on Pirate has a DSM motor he wants to put into a Nash Metro as a super sleeper. But he got caught up in his very nice jeep build instead.

-Wayne