Dragsidious
12-23-2009, 01:14 AM
Just had something that was bugging me with all these newbie welding stuff and MIG welding and that sort of thing.
It's not a big thing, but it is just like a small irritation beneath my skin.
I am a big fan of Oxy-Acetelyne welding and took some night classes. Not just 'artistic' welding, but real ones that were meant for people who were aiming for professional welding and that sort of thing. (this is a very good thing and not that expensive. Very useful stuff to learn). The reason I like it because it's just so useful for all sorts of different things. I can weld, I can heat bends, I can cut holes, I can cut metal. All sorts of fun stuff. Vaporizing a line through a 1/4 inch plate steel then cleaning up with a hand file is cheap and very quick and beats trying to do it with a hack saw.
Now I see people running around with Mig welders left and right and I absolutely understand the attractiveness of it. It's cheap, it's relatively easy, and very fast way to weld steel. I am not knocking it one bit. It's great stuff.
But one thing I think that people are missing is something called 'Bronze Welding' and also called 'Braze Welding' or 'Brazing' by a lot of welders.
Now it's not really accurate to call it 'brazing'. It's fine and is what a lot of people call it, but bronze welding and brazing are two different things. Related, but different.
With Gas techniques you have a great deal of flexibility. The flame allows a lot of temperature control and you can actually pretty easily gauge the temp of the gas flame by simply looking at it. It's kinda difficult to describe, but any decent welding book will have pictures that explain it. It's kinda cool.
So there are a few different 'joining techniques':
From colder/weaker to hotter/stronger
1. Soldering. Using lead/tin or some other mixture of stuff that melts at a low temperature. This works by having the soft metal flow into the joints and crevices of the different materials and, when it cools, it bonds them together like glue.
Soldering happens at temperatures less then 400 °C (752 °F).
2. Brazing. Very similar to soldering, but the difference is that it happens at over 450 °C. It can be done with copper alloys, gold, nickel alloy and other things of that nature. The basic idea is that your using flux and liquifed metal with heated surface metal to 'suck' the filler material in between the joints of metal through capillary action (or 'wicking' or whatever).
Now brazing can be surprisingly strong, but the key of making good joints is to have very clean material and very tight tolerances in fitting metal. Not too tight to restrict flowing, but pretty damn tight to. Like 0.003 inches tight for best strength. The metal flows in, rapidly cools, and locks the two pieces of base metal together. The looser the joint and the strength kinda falls off fairly rapidly, which may or may not be a bad thing depending on what you are wanting to do it with it. Still much stronger then soldering, typically.
3. Braze Welding. This happens at over 850 °C.
This is different. The major difference between this and brazing is that it is twice as hot and your actually doing welding of a sort. What happens is that your heating the base material up to a dull red glow. Not to the melting point, but still pretty hot. Then you start adding your bronze alloy.
This does _NOT_ depend on capillary action like regular brazing does. What is happening is that the bronze is flowing and mixing with the surface of the base metal to create a new alloy. So there is really no very abrupt stop from were the steel ends and the bronze starts... instead there is some small amount of surface mixing going on there. The nice thing that since it does not depend on capillary action then you joints do not have to be nearly as exact when compared to regular brazing. So it's much quicker process.
Then that steel-to-bronze-alloy-to-bronze-to-bronze-alloy-to-steel is a fairly solid hunk of metal that joins the two objects that need some of that 'oneness'.
4. Gas Welding. Happens at over 1600 °C for mild steel.
This is what is traditionally thought of as welding and is the art/science of taking two pieces of steel and make them one piece of steel. Ideally when you do your job right you can take something like a butt weld, cut it through the center and not be able to tell exactly were the joint is at... because there is no joint any more. One of the nice things about Oxy-Acel welding (and one of the bad things) is that it heats up the surrounding metal so hot that the crystal structure of the metal flows into one another making one of the strongest types of joints possible. Of course this has the tendency to distort everything to hell, so it's not really the most popular thing to do anymore. :)
NOW HERE IS THE KICKER:
Bronze has a high tensile strength.
To understand why you have to know a bit of metalurgy: The reason we use steel for everything is not because it's super-strong (it is), but because it is relatively LIGHT WEIGHT for it's strength (and price). But it's not necessarily the strongest.
(side note:)
It's like the debate between DOM tubing vs. EWR tubing vs. Chromoly vs. Poop Pipe.
It is probably possible to make a Poop Pipe roll cage for a truck that is every bit as strong as a Chrome-Moly tubing... it's just that it would be massive, stupid and expensive. It's just that the poop pipe would be so heavy that nobody would be able to have a competitive truck using it.
So that also why you'd use DOM tubing over EWR for a roll cage... not so much because just because DOM is stronger, but because DOM will be much lighter and cheaper for the same tensile strength as if you used EWR. Right? To reach the same target strength with EWR would require bigger and heavier tubes then if you used DOM tubing.
But DOM is much cheaper then Chromoly so it's worth using DOM for the majority of applications. The trade-off is not really strength per $$... the trade off is _weight_. You have to use bigger/thicker DOM tubes to reach the same strength. If you do your not losing anything in safety by using DOM, your losing out on _performance_ as your DOM-using truck will weigh more.
That is, of course, if you do your design correctly.
(end side note)
Ok.....
Now back to Braze Welding. Braze welding kicks-ass because the tensile strength of the joint is very high. With braze welding on mild steel the joint is will actually have a higher strength then the steel if you can believe that.
Here is the comparison:
Mild Steel (something like 1018-1020 used in EWR) has a ultimate tensile strength of about 60,000 to 80,000 psi.
Brazing, the ~450 °C process with capillary action, has a tensile strength of about 40,000 to 60,000 psi if you do a good job on the joint.
Braze Welding has a tensile strength of 50,000 to 70,000 psi! :laughing:
Brazing and Braze Welding has been used in racing car chassis building for decades. Of course with TIG and more exotic materials it's largely been displaced. But for poorer and lesser skilled people Braze still kicks ass.
And you don't need oxy-acetylene to do this either!
Even though I never have used one you can pick up a Propane/Mapp-Air torch kit for less then a hundred dollars and you can get Mapp or Propane gas at most hardware stores. This should get you hot enough to do brazing properly.
For braze welding you can probably pick up a oxy-mapp kit for not much more. And you can cut metal with that combination, also. Maybe something like this:
[(edit: *deleted* link)
Although do keep in mind that I have no experience with Mapp or propane torches. Just Oxy-Acetylene.
Sooooo.....
Advantages to Braze Welding:
* Cheaper -- uses less gas then welding and you can probably get by with cheaper rig.
* Faster -- less prep then brazing or gas welding. You don't need to heat the metal up to melting point to join them. (You still need to have pretty clean metal to work with, of course. So don't expect it to 'cut' through crusty stuff like you can with electric welding.) The metal does not oxidize that fast so there is little scale to clean up and that sort of thing. Smoother, too.
* Easier -- there is very little chance you'll burn through the metal. If your slow you'll probably distort thin metal and cause problems (metal that starts to melt won't braze properly.. it causes the bronze filler rod to splatter and spit). But it's pretty simple to get a decent joint. It's kinda easy to do a visual inspection.
* Works with cast iron -- It's very difficult to properly weld cast iron. However braze welding works with cast iron very well. So much so that it can be used for repairing things like broken bits off of engine blocks or fixing exhaust manifolds (with proper cleaning).
I suppose it's like a ghetto-TIG welding. Not nearly as strong, of course, but different techniques can be used with different materials... like some Aluminum stuff. (although I have no experience with anything like that). It works best with steel and cast iron, though.
Here is a example of a man repairing a broken cast iron bandsaw bracket with brazing: YouTube - brazing repair of cast iron band saw bracket (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WE1wIpG0KnE)
------------------------
Personally I would use braze welding for most anything. I would avoid using it in especially critical areas like roll cages or suspension links... but stuff that would be difficult to weld properly and/or have more surface area to join would probably work out pretty well. I figure a proper braze weld that is easier to do right is better then a poorly done mig weld that was done too shallow because I was scared of burning through some metal.
Some things I think of off the top of my head maybe things like spare tire mounts. Non-critical 'cages' like 'exo cages' that are intended to protect your sheet metal and not main parts to protect lives. Stuff in metal dash boards. Brazing together metal to replace cut-out sections of bed or floor for rust repair. Adding on light brackets to cages. Repairing body mounts. That sort of thing. Anything were mild steel-level strength was plenty.
I imagine that having a mobile braze welding kit handy would be kick-ass for doing emergency repairs. Stuff like broken shock mounts, broken frames, broken suspension mounts. Broken-pretty-much-anything steel or cast iron. That sort of thing.
Like if a old jeep broke a section of it's frame. A half hour-to-a-hour repair with a stiff metal brush, a piece of leaf spring, and a couple metal clamps combined with braze welding will make something like that drivable again. Not safe enough to head down 75mph on the interstate or anything like that, but good enough so that it can get back home all nice-and-easy so that a proper repair can be done.
Of course carrying compressed oxygen around may not be the brightest idea, but if your going to do cook-outs with propane then a small propane torch and alone would probably be good for some ghetto-fab brazing.
Just watch out for gas leaks and gas lines and that sort of thing. Having stuff explode next to you would make for a VERY bad rest-of-your-life (however long that would be).
Just food for thought, that is all.
I am no expert. Just took some classes, did a (very) non critical part time job that involved some welding and that sort of thing. Nothing special, nothing that makes me a expert.
Nice community you guys got here, btw. Lots of useful stuff.
It's not a big thing, but it is just like a small irritation beneath my skin.
I am a big fan of Oxy-Acetelyne welding and took some night classes. Not just 'artistic' welding, but real ones that were meant for people who were aiming for professional welding and that sort of thing. (this is a very good thing and not that expensive. Very useful stuff to learn). The reason I like it because it's just so useful for all sorts of different things. I can weld, I can heat bends, I can cut holes, I can cut metal. All sorts of fun stuff. Vaporizing a line through a 1/4 inch plate steel then cleaning up with a hand file is cheap and very quick and beats trying to do it with a hack saw.
Now I see people running around with Mig welders left and right and I absolutely understand the attractiveness of it. It's cheap, it's relatively easy, and very fast way to weld steel. I am not knocking it one bit. It's great stuff.
But one thing I think that people are missing is something called 'Bronze Welding' and also called 'Braze Welding' or 'Brazing' by a lot of welders.
Now it's not really accurate to call it 'brazing'. It's fine and is what a lot of people call it, but bronze welding and brazing are two different things. Related, but different.
With Gas techniques you have a great deal of flexibility. The flame allows a lot of temperature control and you can actually pretty easily gauge the temp of the gas flame by simply looking at it. It's kinda difficult to describe, but any decent welding book will have pictures that explain it. It's kinda cool.
So there are a few different 'joining techniques':
From colder/weaker to hotter/stronger
1. Soldering. Using lead/tin or some other mixture of stuff that melts at a low temperature. This works by having the soft metal flow into the joints and crevices of the different materials and, when it cools, it bonds them together like glue.
Soldering happens at temperatures less then 400 °C (752 °F).
2. Brazing. Very similar to soldering, but the difference is that it happens at over 450 °C. It can be done with copper alloys, gold, nickel alloy and other things of that nature. The basic idea is that your using flux and liquifed metal with heated surface metal to 'suck' the filler material in between the joints of metal through capillary action (or 'wicking' or whatever).
Now brazing can be surprisingly strong, but the key of making good joints is to have very clean material and very tight tolerances in fitting metal. Not too tight to restrict flowing, but pretty damn tight to. Like 0.003 inches tight for best strength. The metal flows in, rapidly cools, and locks the two pieces of base metal together. The looser the joint and the strength kinda falls off fairly rapidly, which may or may not be a bad thing depending on what you are wanting to do it with it. Still much stronger then soldering, typically.
3. Braze Welding. This happens at over 850 °C.
This is different. The major difference between this and brazing is that it is twice as hot and your actually doing welding of a sort. What happens is that your heating the base material up to a dull red glow. Not to the melting point, but still pretty hot. Then you start adding your bronze alloy.
This does _NOT_ depend on capillary action like regular brazing does. What is happening is that the bronze is flowing and mixing with the surface of the base metal to create a new alloy. So there is really no very abrupt stop from were the steel ends and the bronze starts... instead there is some small amount of surface mixing going on there. The nice thing that since it does not depend on capillary action then you joints do not have to be nearly as exact when compared to regular brazing. So it's much quicker process.
Then that steel-to-bronze-alloy-to-bronze-to-bronze-alloy-to-steel is a fairly solid hunk of metal that joins the two objects that need some of that 'oneness'.
4. Gas Welding. Happens at over 1600 °C for mild steel.
This is what is traditionally thought of as welding and is the art/science of taking two pieces of steel and make them one piece of steel. Ideally when you do your job right you can take something like a butt weld, cut it through the center and not be able to tell exactly were the joint is at... because there is no joint any more. One of the nice things about Oxy-Acel welding (and one of the bad things) is that it heats up the surrounding metal so hot that the crystal structure of the metal flows into one another making one of the strongest types of joints possible. Of course this has the tendency to distort everything to hell, so it's not really the most popular thing to do anymore. :)
NOW HERE IS THE KICKER:
Bronze has a high tensile strength.
To understand why you have to know a bit of metalurgy: The reason we use steel for everything is not because it's super-strong (it is), but because it is relatively LIGHT WEIGHT for it's strength (and price). But it's not necessarily the strongest.
(side note:)
It's like the debate between DOM tubing vs. EWR tubing vs. Chromoly vs. Poop Pipe.
It is probably possible to make a Poop Pipe roll cage for a truck that is every bit as strong as a Chrome-Moly tubing... it's just that it would be massive, stupid and expensive. It's just that the poop pipe would be so heavy that nobody would be able to have a competitive truck using it.
So that also why you'd use DOM tubing over EWR for a roll cage... not so much because just because DOM is stronger, but because DOM will be much lighter and cheaper for the same tensile strength as if you used EWR. Right? To reach the same target strength with EWR would require bigger and heavier tubes then if you used DOM tubing.
But DOM is much cheaper then Chromoly so it's worth using DOM for the majority of applications. The trade-off is not really strength per $$... the trade off is _weight_. You have to use bigger/thicker DOM tubes to reach the same strength. If you do your not losing anything in safety by using DOM, your losing out on _performance_ as your DOM-using truck will weigh more.
That is, of course, if you do your design correctly.
(end side note)
Ok.....
Now back to Braze Welding. Braze welding kicks-ass because the tensile strength of the joint is very high. With braze welding on mild steel the joint is will actually have a higher strength then the steel if you can believe that.
Here is the comparison:
Mild Steel (something like 1018-1020 used in EWR) has a ultimate tensile strength of about 60,000 to 80,000 psi.
Brazing, the ~450 °C process with capillary action, has a tensile strength of about 40,000 to 60,000 psi if you do a good job on the joint.
Braze Welding has a tensile strength of 50,000 to 70,000 psi! :laughing:
Brazing and Braze Welding has been used in racing car chassis building for decades. Of course with TIG and more exotic materials it's largely been displaced. But for poorer and lesser skilled people Braze still kicks ass.
And you don't need oxy-acetylene to do this either!
Even though I never have used one you can pick up a Propane/Mapp-Air torch kit for less then a hundred dollars and you can get Mapp or Propane gas at most hardware stores. This should get you hot enough to do brazing properly.
For braze welding you can probably pick up a oxy-mapp kit for not much more. And you can cut metal with that combination, also. Maybe something like this:
[(edit: *deleted* link)
Although do keep in mind that I have no experience with Mapp or propane torches. Just Oxy-Acetylene.
Sooooo.....
Advantages to Braze Welding:
* Cheaper -- uses less gas then welding and you can probably get by with cheaper rig.
* Faster -- less prep then brazing or gas welding. You don't need to heat the metal up to melting point to join them. (You still need to have pretty clean metal to work with, of course. So don't expect it to 'cut' through crusty stuff like you can with electric welding.) The metal does not oxidize that fast so there is little scale to clean up and that sort of thing. Smoother, too.
* Easier -- there is very little chance you'll burn through the metal. If your slow you'll probably distort thin metal and cause problems (metal that starts to melt won't braze properly.. it causes the bronze filler rod to splatter and spit). But it's pretty simple to get a decent joint. It's kinda easy to do a visual inspection.
* Works with cast iron -- It's very difficult to properly weld cast iron. However braze welding works with cast iron very well. So much so that it can be used for repairing things like broken bits off of engine blocks or fixing exhaust manifolds (with proper cleaning).
I suppose it's like a ghetto-TIG welding. Not nearly as strong, of course, but different techniques can be used with different materials... like some Aluminum stuff. (although I have no experience with anything like that). It works best with steel and cast iron, though.
Here is a example of a man repairing a broken cast iron bandsaw bracket with brazing: YouTube - brazing repair of cast iron band saw bracket (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WE1wIpG0KnE)
------------------------
Personally I would use braze welding for most anything. I would avoid using it in especially critical areas like roll cages or suspension links... but stuff that would be difficult to weld properly and/or have more surface area to join would probably work out pretty well. I figure a proper braze weld that is easier to do right is better then a poorly done mig weld that was done too shallow because I was scared of burning through some metal.
Some things I think of off the top of my head maybe things like spare tire mounts. Non-critical 'cages' like 'exo cages' that are intended to protect your sheet metal and not main parts to protect lives. Stuff in metal dash boards. Brazing together metal to replace cut-out sections of bed or floor for rust repair. Adding on light brackets to cages. Repairing body mounts. That sort of thing. Anything were mild steel-level strength was plenty.
I imagine that having a mobile braze welding kit handy would be kick-ass for doing emergency repairs. Stuff like broken shock mounts, broken frames, broken suspension mounts. Broken-pretty-much-anything steel or cast iron. That sort of thing.
Like if a old jeep broke a section of it's frame. A half hour-to-a-hour repair with a stiff metal brush, a piece of leaf spring, and a couple metal clamps combined with braze welding will make something like that drivable again. Not safe enough to head down 75mph on the interstate or anything like that, but good enough so that it can get back home all nice-and-easy so that a proper repair can be done.
Of course carrying compressed oxygen around may not be the brightest idea, but if your going to do cook-outs with propane then a small propane torch and alone would probably be good for some ghetto-fab brazing.
Just watch out for gas leaks and gas lines and that sort of thing. Having stuff explode next to you would make for a VERY bad rest-of-your-life (however long that would be).
Just food for thought, that is all.
I am no expert. Just took some classes, did a (very) non critical part time job that involved some welding and that sort of thing. Nothing special, nothing that makes me a expert.
Nice community you guys got here, btw. Lots of useful stuff.