T-18 Vs TF 727

[lt303scoutin]

I got my new 2.46 D20 this weekend. When i was picking it up, i was talking to the guy about my plan to rebuild my TF 727. He asked why i didnt just stick a T-18 or T-19 in instead.

I don't have much of a preference of manual or auto. The truck will be %75 daily driver 25% 4wheeler.

I'm looking at probably $200 for a torque converter & Auto rebuild kit. I have a friend that is giving me a T-18 in unknown condition, but I would need bellhousing, clutch & linkage. So it seems the $$ is about the same.

The problem is I am still relatively new to twisting a wrench. Have done well so far but Have no idea how involved the switch to a manual will be. I read the BB FAQ and it seems straight forward. The service manual didnt cover the clutch pedal & linkage very well.

HELP..is there a major advantage of auto or manual? Is the switch as simple as it seems? are the pedal & linkage for the clutch available?

thanks in advance... Ben with only 3rd gear :-)

[saprobe]

i had a couple of questions: how did you build your 2.46 d20? bronco or 18 gears? at any rate,how will you install the input gear? the 727 has a unique internal spline on the input gear,and you cannot use the stock d20 input gear with the bronco gears.would be interested in some specifics of your swap.

as far as the t18 vs 727,my opinion on that is biased. i love the water,and have been thru several torqueflight autos due to water contamination. i just swapped a t18 into my grand wagoneer to avoid future "water in auto" prollems.i also feel i have alot more control climbing and descending hills with the t18s low 1st gear.i persoanlly prefer a grindbox for hardcore offroadin.

aside from that,an auto can be nicer on the street,and if your wheelin is minimal,and/or moderate,youll prolly be fine with an auto.i will offer some advice if you go with the auto: 1) spend whatever extra time or money isneeded to get a converor with a drain plug. that has helped me many times. 2) have whoever rebuilds your tranny ap off the stock vent behind the convertor and drill/tap a place on top of the case for you to put a hose on. 3) go to your loclka gm dealer and get a later model locking dipstick. youll have to cut it to length,and scribe the fil lines,but it will help immensely for keepin water out of your trnny.

[lt303scoutin]

The conversion was done using Bronco gears.

I have just become aware of the problem finding a gear to match the D20 to A TF 727. So it seems a T-18 is in my future.

How hard was the conversion to a manual. Like i have said before, I am fairly new at wrenching and am a little intimidated.

Thanks for your input.

Ben, still with only 3rd gear

[saprobe]

ooohhh. did IH ever install a spicer 18 onto the 727? im thinkin not,but if they did,that would be a 23 internal spline,29 tooth input gear you could use.

as far as the swap goes,its fairly easy if you have a donor rig with all the parts. what did the t18 youre gonna use come from? if its a jeep or IH version that had a 20 attached,youll be half way there. things can get somewhat complex if you have to track down a matching belhousing(which is important since the t18 came with many different input shafts) belcrank,pedals,and assorted linkage.

mine was into a grand wagoneer,which i realize is not a scout,but the procedure is the same. i had a 77 j20 for parts that i used the tranny,pedals and linkage.this is the first auto to manual swap ive ever done and it was pretty easy.definately somethin a compitent weekend wrench can handle.

hopefully someone else on this board will know more specifically what years youll need to look for.

good luck,let us know if you have further ques...

[troutbum]

I love my 727... the water thing is a drag, and the lack of compression braking but it will make you look like a pro in the rocks ; )... I have a full reverse valve body and RV gears and I love it.

[jdjanda]

I am starting to enjoy my 727. I used to be a fan of manuals, still am, but the 727 is here to stay. It just makes life easier, you can work both the go pedal and no go pedal at the same time. Helps the No-trac do something other than act like an open diff. Compression break is decent. A rig with an auto needs around a 50:1 crawl ratio to work well in the rocks. Be sure to add a temp gauge, and extra cooler if you want the 727 to live. The 727's are considered one of the strongest autos. You can also grab the tail housing off an 80's Grand Wagoneer for a the six bolt round pattern, and bolt up a J**p Dana 300, or Klune box.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

[The Rockslut]

Sell that D20 with gears to someone for good $$$ and buy a 300 that will bolt right onto the 727 and have a stock 2.6 low range. Stay with the auto