How did you, or how do you plan to fit your meats of choice under your rig. After the SOA, I’m going to 35/36 12.5 Swampers. Up front the front-end fenders and inner fenders will get a buzz. Outback will be a challenge, I’ll use 4” bump stops, open up the fenders, and cut the back out of the wheel wells and section in new metal to form a new wheel well. With the SOA, 1.5” BL, and trim work the tires should fit with zero rub. I plan to setup one end at a time with a single spring and cycle the suspension.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

36" tires if you center them on the fender wells they will work.

My plans for rear fender treatments when I go to 36" or bigger is to cut the rear panel straight out from the top of the fender well and use a tandem axle trailer fender cut in half for the new wells.
Also going to bob the frame and tub at this time, got to figure out how to setup my rear suspension first though, because my stock springs are too long to bob off much frame.

I guess you couldn't do this to your rear fenders and still be street legal, but I have too many legal violations to fix already.

I suppose you could run mud flaps on the street.

Ahh the more I hear of sawzalling Scout 2 tubs to fit big meats the more more I love my Scout 800 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> . Plenty o'room to cut and all the styling of a refrigerator.

Originally posted by Overkiller:
<STRONG>Ahh the more I hear of sawzalling Scout 2 tubs to fit big meats the more more I love my Scout 800 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> . Plenty o'room to cut and all the styling of a refrigerator.</STRONG>

...and not one of those new fandangled computerized refrigerators either...

Here's what is has taken so far to get 36's on my '64:
Front 2.5" Waggoneer SOA wheel wells trimmed to 3/4" following the upper wheel well line

Rear 3"block with Land Rover springs SOA trimmed to 3/4" etc. However, these damn springs are so flexible that I still rub. <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> I'm going to trim about 3.5" to 4" of the bottom of the rear over hang and it looks like I have to figure out some bumpstops <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

I plan to run 36x12.5x16 SSR's, with just SOA. The front looks like it should be no problem, just some FAT trimming. ON the rear I plan to trim the outer sheet metal and also create a new, bigger, inner fender well. but not re-tub it. I want all of the interior room I can get. With my wider axles I should be fine with not totally re-tubing it, and I might try to eliminate the inner fender wells all-together for more interior room.

I got lots of camping gear. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I have 35's and want to be able to use a 36" spare off my wives truck if need be. SOA and sawzall. The rear I plan to cut out the inner fender wells and make something new.
the front will have a new sweet spot with Bronco leaves. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> bump stops? have not thought about those yet.
Ritch

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>How did you, or how do you plan to fit your meats of choice under your rig.</STRONG>

Since I really do need to fix the body before I modify the suspension any more.. I'm leaning towards tubbing the rear.

Tub the rear, and re-radius the front so the wheel opening starts at the shelf of the inner fender.

In the rear, I'd like to cut back to the rearmost vertical rib of the body stiffener just behind the wheel wells. Leave just the rib, cut the front 3" or so out of it. Move forward a bit in the front, and build new tubs. Taller and longer (front to back) and maybe wider (inboard) as well. I've been thinking of a J**p rear seat.

Should be able to fit my 36s without any more lift (4" SUA-F/SOA-R) and with the stock axles.

Won't help my turning radius one bit though. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Race Scout's already had the front fenders radiused (and the front clip one-pieced and tilt), but the rear needs tubbed. I can rub the 31s when I land. I'll probably tub the racer first to get a feel for how I want to do the trail rig.

Then I'm going to cut both sets of brand new quarter panels when I put 'em on. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I like the idea of using a trailer fender to extend the rear section of the fenders. I too have kicked the idea around, should not be too difficult to do, especially with my pneumatic flanger. I'd like to use wheels with no more than 3 inch backspacing to give me a little more clearance as the tires stuff.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Hayraker*:
<STRONG>
Also going to bob the frame and tub at this time, got to figure out how to setup my rear suspension first though, because my stock springs are too long to bob off much frame.
</STRONG>

Hayraker - I want to see a Traveler bobbed 18" and then a "100 inch" SII Traveltop fitted to it.

IH added 18" between the wheels to make the stretched Traveler.. but Scoutillac whacked 18" (OK, 18.75") off the rear of his SII when he bobbed it (and 1/4 eliptic'd it).

So take 18" off the back, and fit a full Traveltop (or SII soft-top!) to it.

"one hundred inch" body with 118" of WB.. and more tops available.

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Hayraker - I want to see a Traveler bobbed 18" and then a "100 inch" SII Traveltop fitted to it.

IH added 18" between the wheels to make the stretched Traveler.. but Scoutillac whacked 18" (OK, 18.75") off the rear of his SII when he bobbed it (and 1/4 eliptic'd it).

So take 18" off the back, and fit a full Traveltop (or SII soft-top!) to it.

"one hundred inch" body with 118" of WB.. and more tops available.</STRONG>

That is what I am thinking of (so is skeetshooter, as I have stolen most of these ideas from him),

I would have to re-do the cage though because I put it together not planning on ever buying any kind of factory top.

My plan for a soft top is to have one made at the local industrial tarp shop here locally (they make tarps for gravel trailers, and stock trailers etc.), that will use my cage for a frame.

Then make some home-made door inserts cut to fit cj soft doors, or whatever I can find cheap.

I do like the idea of turning it into a scoutII size vehicle with traveler wheel base.

Just got to find the time to do it; and got to get to work on my shop first.