I have a 2005 chevrolet 2500 HD 4x4.Last night i was making a turn and the rear end made a loud pop like something was hung up and broke. Now it is making a grinding and popping noise every time i turn......I have not gone into it yet but kinda curios what i tore up? Dont really know much about differentials so please don't be to ruff on me.... I believe it is a 14 bolt FF with a 10.5 ring gear w/ Limited slip..All help greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

You should be sure to take a look at the bearings around the axle, if your lucky one of those could have broke???:confused:

It feels as if it is trying to lock up when making a turn ( like backing out of the driveway)....

What are the chances i busted the differential i guess is what i am asking?

You should have the AAM 11.5 and not the 10.5

sounds like gov- bomb blew.

Ok so 11.5 ring instead of 10.5 kinda figured with it being 3/4 ton it would be 10.5 but thanks for the info.....What is the best way to go about fixing it ?
Considered rebuild but looking really expensive and not sure on what to put in there being its a DD and the tow rig.....Limited slip or locker? Detroit truetrak is what i was looking at if i rebuild any info on those? Any other recommendations on any other carriers for a 4.10 ration.

You should have the AAM 11.5 and not the 10.5

11.5 for 8.1 and Duramax. 10.5 for 6.0. 4.10s it's either a 6.0 or 8.1, most likely a 6.0.

That would be the 14bolt 10.5" rear end.

i had an eaton limited slip in a 10 bolt that happend to it just as you described when i took the cover off i had found out one of the spider gears had broke a tooth.

p.s i see your aslo a newbie watch out for the user grumpy old fart he thinks newbies should not post in this section of the boaard he will try to talk you down if you ever have a problem with him tell him to fu*k off

I have been around for a while just don't talk much...:D

I have the 6.0L gas so i do have the 10.5 ring and 4.10 gears my glove box says it has the gt5 #'s

So i will check the spider gears.....thanks for the lookout

I would consider not driving it incase some of the chucks of broken parts "if there is any" wouldn't destroy the ring and pinion or bearings. It sounds like the factory limited slip let go. Depending on the damage you could buy a LS rebuild kit "around $450" if you get lucky. The rebuild kit comes with everything you need for the inside of the limited slip ie. cross pin, clutchs, bolts, spider gears. Also make sure you get some limited slip aditive when you rebuild it. Good Luck JRAT

Thanks Jrat Where would i get the "LS rebuild kit" ? and i planned on not driving it lol didn't wanna drive it home but had no other choice so hopefully not to much damage...:(

Anyone know what complete rear ends are running for something like this ?

Another question is How does Lucas oil work in an limited slip application? (good to use or not?)

oh ya you have sorry over looked the join date

Yeah most people look at post count and assume your new lol i used to

Take the damn cover off and tell us :flipoff2: what you broke other than that I could guess a half dozen things are broken some will cost $50 some will cost $500 so look and see for yourself.

I think I just had a grumpy old f**k moment:flipoff2:

Will take pics when i get it tore apart going to wait till next set of days off so i know i have the time to get it tore down and back together as this will be my first rear diff. fix......I think you had a couple of Grumpy moments there LOL :laughing:

If you can afford to drive a 2005 you can afford to fix it. Pull the freaking cover and find out what it is. Either have yours fixed, or look into one from a wrecking yard.

If you are still driving it you wife will have a grumpy moment when she see's the repair bill due to the cost going up with each mile. If you drive it you will do more damage what was a $100 dollar fix will likely be much more with each mile. So park the damn thing or get off the computer and pull the cover to see whats wrong before your trip home tomorrow includes a tow or if you are lucky just the use of 4 wheel (if you have it).

Will take pics when i get it tore apart going to wait till next set of days off so i know i have the time to get it tore down and back together as this will be my first rear diff. fix......I think you had a couple of Grumpy moments there LOL :laughing:

1. I drive a 2005 because some jackass sold it to me for $7,000 because he thought the transfer case was going out !!! Bad u-joint and ran like new

2. Drove it home last night been parked ever since have no intention of driving it until its fixed!!!!

Anyway got the cover off cant see any damage so its inside the diff here are pics .

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/andrew198501/S5030662.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/andrew198501/S5030663.jpg
These are copper colored chunks from bottom of housing
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/andrew198501/S5030661.jpg

dont even bother trying to repair it, just get used one or a open from another axle.


this can be a lot cheaper and easier to fix than you think.

the kits to repair the pos can be $300+/- , you can buy one or an entire axle for $100.


infact i have a 4.56 one that you can get from me, just gut it and install all the bits into yours if the case is good.

i can also get you a old open for cheap. just swap the bearings and the gear and reset your back lash. you can seriously do this yourself in a day.

^^^^Thanks!!! I like the sounds of doing it in a day!!! Now...What happened to it? Also wouldn't the carrier be different from 4.10 to 4.56?

the carrier is, thats why i said gut all the bits out of it and install in yours, if your carrier is still useable.

the copper colored peices are probably chunks of the flyweight lock, it is a brass/copper color.

pull it out and get it apart then report back with pics.

If the glovebox list of codes has a G80 you have the infamous Gov-lock rear axle. I've broken some.
If the bearings and the ring and pinion are good (depending on how far you drove it) you may be able to pull the carrier out, take the ring gear off, seperate the carrier and pull out the broken stuff and replace it.

The Gov-lock has 3 pinion gear cross in it, if your lucky you may have just busted the flyweight and governor mechanism. If thats all that broke take it out. If your really on a budget you can put it all back together. It'll act pretty much like an open rear end then.

If it is just a DD and tow vehicle you can add some extra frictions and shims to tighten up the LSD. There is a collar on the left side gear (I'm pretty sure its the left) that has to be pressed off to add shims on that side. The other side just a lifts out of the carrier half. If this is clear as mud to you, you can look it up on you tube under "Eaton Locking Differential" it has some nice animated mechanical drawings you can look at.

Send us more pictures as you disassemble it, we can help assess the damage.

Trkklr is the AAM and the early Corporate 14 bolt parts interchageable?

Trkklr is the AAM and the early Corporate 14 bolt parts interchageable?

yes, only the 3rd pinion bearing changed on the inside, all the rest is the same.

there are 2 different cross/Y sizes though, cant tell you anything about why one is bigger or which ones are the bigger/smaller. will have to cover that when he gets into it.

Cool thanks!

Thanks Guys for the help it will be three or four days before i get back to it....Again thanks for the help.....What do you guys think about the detroit true track diff's or even the sure track? Reason for asking is this truck sees it all work and play and i am kinda thinking i would rather do it right the first time and not have to mess with it again.

If the true trac is the all gear one with the spiral gears, all I can recall is hearing good about them. They do require a new carrier. Well anything other than replacing what you have will require a new carrier so thats a moot point! Not sure about the other one. Trkklr is working in a 4x4 shop now so he would have more current info.

if you want to spend money get a open case and a detroit, you never notice it till you need it.

Nice buy for $7000

It sounded like you were still driving it to my eyes :rolleyes:

I agree with trkklr77 easiest would be to replace axle depending on location $100 to 150 sounds right at P&P. But the best way to go would be open and detroit then you won't have to deal with the gov-bomb again.

1. I drive a 2005 because some jackass sold it to me for $7,000 because he thought the transfer case was going out !!! Bad u-joint and ran like new

2. Drove it home last night been parked ever since have no intention of driving it until its fixed!!!!

Anyway got the cover off cant see any damage so its inside the diff here are pics .

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/andrew198501/S5030662.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/andrew198501/S5030663.jpg
These are copper colored chunks from bottom of housing
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/andrew198501/S5030661.jpg

To fill some in on how far i drove it..... 126 miles after the bust.

Well caught a break today found a complete rear axle (rotor to rotor) for $500 shipped to me supposed to only have 44K on it out of a salvage yard in Texas..... Now i can step this to want instead of need

that is cheaper than buying anything aftermarket.

Will still has the Gov-bomb in it but what do you do?

i dont spend $500 on a entire axle that is no better than the one you are replacing.

i would buy an open carrier and a detroit. or just a used govloc or open to do it cheap.

What i am paying for the axle is half the cost of a Detroit ...... Here is my thought process.... If i get this other axle get it in the truck and truck back to making me money..:p.....Then i can build the one that is coming out of the truck with new gears,bearings,locker,and so on then put it back in when the next bomb blows... kinda of the hard way to get it done..

Used carrier $75
Detroit Locker $415

used open carrier w/ spiders- $125


the gov bomb needs to be scraped.

I make people take them out, if they want are 5 year warranty, new ones rarely last 5 years, and when they explode in 10 bolts they usually take the ring and pinion and bearings. 14 bolts everything usually survives if its bnot driven for 1000 miles.

meh, $500 and do it once or $1000 and do it twice..................

the axle is costing you $500 period, it doesnt matter how you break down the cost.



but at least you are thinking about the future and i know what its like trying to time things vrs what you want to do.

Update: Well tore into the axle a little more last night and found out that the bearing are trashed and pinion is missing some chunks out of some of the teeth....:(

The cheapest way would get a junk yard one. If you didnt want the gov lok get one from the junk yard with a open carrier and install a detroit. Make sure they are 100% for sure the ratio is the same as the front end "If its 4x4". Dont trust the word of the junk yard. Have the yard sending it pull the cover and inspect it completely and count the teeth. I have had to many problems buying the cheap axle for customers and they not sending the one i need or it has gotten water and destroyed the bearings. If you are up in the air about rebuilding or replacing I look at it this way do I wanna save money and spend the time twice stripping and replaceing or do I want to save time and spend money and just rebuild it so it will not fail again for many miles? Just remember if you have the money just rebuild it and it'll pay for its self in the long run. If you are lacking funds get the junk yard one just make sure they look it over 100% first cause they really turn into a pain in the ass if its wrong. JRAT

Update: Well tore into the axle a little more last night and found out that the bearing are trashed and pinion is missing some chunks out of some of the teeth....:(

well then, i guess you are get the one from the junkyard.

Yeah i ordered the one from the junk yard it has the same ratio as the one i have now......Now the question i have is..... What kind of fluid do i need to put in it?

If it has another gov lok just use 90w with a Limited Slip additive or fully synth fluid JRAT

what ever 80-90 you can get your hands on or feel like springing for and the addative.

Well the parts store told me it was a 75w-90w synthetic with an additive.......

doesnt matter. you will never be able to tell the difference. you could run 140 if you were so inclined.

Basically as long as it has the additive in don't matter.......Another question did the 80 Chevrolet 1-ton pick-up did it come with the dana 60 or the dana 70?

which end?

front would be a d60 but the rear would be a 14bff if its a srw and a d70 if it was dually.

it is a Dually......Thanks for the info thought but wasn't 100% sure.......Now it is on to another project!!!!:D

check out car-part.com for a more local unit if there is one.

500.00 shipped aint that bad though.

I just ended up puling the guts of mine out of my 07 and welding the diff, but its not my daily driver anymore.

Well the project now is a 1981 k5 blazer since i just pulled the old rear out of my tow rig i am considering rebuilding it and just getting an open carrier and new spider gears and welding it and putting that rear end under my k5 (only has a 12 bolt) then either changing the hubs on my dually to a single wheel and putting a 60 in the front and the welded 14 bolt ff in the rear.

Any one ever heard of Trans Trac all terrain tires?