hey,

Im just feeling this out. Me and some buddies are wanting to build up a truck and race in some of the baja races for 2010/2011. Probably start out in the 250/500.

we all have decent fab skills but have never built anything like a baja rig.

is there a class that is good to start in? Looking at one of the stock truck classes (7's) and staying away from vw as no one has any vw experience.

what says the pbb?

thanks,
John

Imo and I don't know much, :laughing: is to join up with a team for a few races and pull chase duty or try and get a codriver seat on a team already racing.

Some things about desert racing I never would of known if I hadn't gone out and seen it first hand, and I still got tons to learn.

Chasing and codriving is a way cheaper way to learn then by the school of hard knocks building and racing your own rig.

Chasing and codriving is a way cheaper way to learn then by the school of hard knocks building and racing your own rig.



No Shit :eek: I just had to do my budget up for next season.... fuck me!

No Shit :eek: I just had to do my budget up for next season.... fuck me!

I'll have to hear about this later.

Buy a 1450 truck from someone else!!!
DO NOT BUILD YOU FIRST RACE TRUCK!!!!!!
TRUST ME!!!!
& dont plan to win right away. Use your first year or two just to learn how to win later.

And don't start out in Baja. Stay in the States and run a smaller sanctioned series. CA, NV, AZ, UT and NM all have options to run on a decent budget. We just finished our first season racing MORE, MDR and SNORE and had a blast. Others may disagree but the logistics and costs alone to run the 500 would probably pay for an entire season of 200 to 500 mile loop races here. MDR has a huge 1450 class to get you started. ;)

And don't start out in Baja. Stay in the States and run a smaller sanctioned series. CA, NV, AZ, UT and NM all have options to run on a decent budget. We just finished our first season racing MORE, MDR and SNORE and had a blast. Others may disagree but the logistics and costs alone to run the 500 would probably pay for an entire season of 200 to 500 mile loop races here. MDR has a huge 1450 class to get you started. ;)

agreed
snore and mdr are awesome

Buy a 1450 truck from someone else!!!
DO NOT BUILD YOU FIRST RACE TRUCK!!!!!!
TRUST ME!!!!
& dont plan to win right away. Use your first year or two just to learn how to win later.


^^this! you can buy a good tested, reliable used truck, usually with some spare part's for a fraction of what a new build will run, and the smaller more localized series are the way to start, a MORE sportsman entry is $200, that's it. SCORE? try close to 2k. and loop races require a fraction of the logistic's to race.

there are sme very reliable used jeepspeeds for sale for a steal right now. and it is one of the most reasonable classes to race in, good turnout's and good paybacks. it's one of the largest spec classes in offroad racing.

this is a little disheartening guys,

but I figured this. Having no desert racing experience is probably the biggest issue right now. Is there one particular race to try to start in?

Im a complete newb to this desert thing.

thanks, john

If you are planning to come west for KOH in February, stay an extra week and hit SNORE's Battle at Primm (2-19 to 2-21). It should be easy to hook up with a team to help pit or just watch and see the various classes to help you decide what you want to race. This should be a BIG race as this year SNORE is sharing the date with a smaller series "DRIVE". I would guess there will be 200+ entered.:)

So, anyone on here needing pit help for the SNORE/DRIVE Battle at Primm?

I'd love to come down, and if someone was expecting me I'd make a point of making it. Might be able to hook up a buddy or two also.
We all have experience racing offroad, just not in long races.

Thanks,
Blair

this is a little disheartening guys,

but I figured this. Having no desert racing experience is probably the biggest issue right now. Is there one particular race to try to start in?

Im a complete newb to this desert thing.

thanks, john

You cant just jump in with the top dogs. they will eat you alive!!!
you have to start low and earn your way to the top classes of the dez.
unless you have so much money you dont know what to do with it and in that case just jump in and join the rest of the fags at the back of the pack blowing their shit up everywhere they go, making fools of them selfs.
spend the money on a nice 1450 truck, race a season in that and you will have a good idea of where you belong in the desert scene.
Trust me one full season in 1450 youll be able to see what it takes to be at the top of any class. Just watch evey class and every team around you.

This is a very interesting thread. I've often wondered where to start also.:homer:

yall keep throwin the 1450 class out there.

It seems that the 1450 and the class7 are almost interchangeable between different gov. bodies. Am I correct for assuming that?

So if I made a truck to score class7 then it would work for someone elses class 1450?

john

class 7 and 1450 are similar, class 7 has a frame rule, unless your talking about score class 6 or BITD class 7200. then they are the same with a trackwidth limited to 85" and a v6 max on the 7200 series side.

So, anyone on here needing pit help for the SNORE/DRIVE Battle at Primm?

I'd love to come down, and if someone was expecting me I'd make a point of making it. Might be able to hook up a buddy or two also.
We all have experience racing offroad, just not in long races.

Thanks,
Blair
We might be racing BAP. Not sure yet, 50/50 right now. KOH in February is the first priority. :grinpimp: We are racing in the Mint 400 in March if you want to help pit or chase, just let me know.:)

yall keep throwin the 1450 class out there.

It seems that the 1450 and the class7 are almost interchangeable between different gov. bodies. Am I correct for assuming that?

So if I made a truck to score class7 then it would work for someone elses class 1450?

john

John,

The best way to describe 1450 is the sportsman class of trucks. Not full blown Trophy Trucks, or full fiberglass bodies and unlimited suspensions. I believe (don't quote or hold me to this) 1450 requires the steel cab, doors and frame from the original truck. In 7 (limited) the rules are the same but you are also limited to a V-6.

IMO the best "bang for the buck" class to start out in is Jeepspeed. I haven't checked lately but the Dust Junkies Jeep was for sale recently and is consistantly out front. It raced Laughlin in 1450 and held it's own: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=845708. Jeepspeed also has good turn outs and your can race in SCORE. Again, you should come out to a few races and then decide. Who knows, you might want to start in Class 11.:grinpimp:
http://www.desertdingo.com/images/dustborder.jpg

John,

I am a huge fan of the Jeepspeed classes. I like the challenge class the best (1700's). I have been involved in racing with friends starting out the very same way numerous people in this thread have suggested; by co-piloting, pitting, chasing, pre-running and sweeping. I got to see and learn a lot.

I relocated to the midwest and ran a series that was new in 2009 (my first time driving in an event) held at the Badlands Off Road Park called TREC. Closed loop course that varied from 6 to 9 miles. I had an awesome year! Tons of fun, payouts were better then I had expected and everyone one was great to race with.

Regardless to what anyone tells you JUST MAKE SURE YOU DO SOMETHING! It is tons of fun.

Search TREC here on Pirate and you will see what everyone is racing. A lot of guys in this local circuit bought and built decent rigs on a tight budget and did really well. Check out #318. He bought a Grand Cherokee with a V8, stripped it down and ran the hell out of it and won two events out of the three (I think) he entered.

If you could find a local event like this out buy you - it would be the way to go!

Good luck and keep us all posted on your progress!

1450 = Unlimited suspention and unlimited motor

7/ 7200 = limited track width and V6 or smaller, and I think it must have a full frame

But they both must have a steel cab and working doors.

There is a lot of mis-information posted above, here is a breakdown of the various mini truck classes for SCORE and BITD and where they are the same.

SCORE class 6 and BITD class 7200 is essentially a mini Trophy Truck class and does not require frame or doors, the only limitations are 85" track width and 6 cylinder engine, everything else is open. Not a entry level class.

SCORE Class 7 Open (BITD no longer has a comparable class) requires a full frame and 6 cyl with 4.5 liter max, maximum track width to out side of tire of 78" but does not require doors or cab. A dying class, not a good idea to build a new truck for this class although there is a good supply of used trucks to buy and race.

SCORE Class 7SX and BITD 7100 require frame, steel cab with doors, 6 cyl with max displacement of 4.0 liter and stock (may be re-inforced) suspension components, front wheel travel limited to 12", may use coil over shocks in front, leaf spring rear with springs not longer than 57.5", stock track width +/- 2". Best choice for entry level build.

SCORE Class Stock Mini or BITD 7300 Requires full body(no fiberglass) doors and frame, all suspension components must be stock and unre-inforced and use factory pivot points, 3" body lift may be used, shocks are open. Can be a good class for entry level but trucks are slow and can end up costing more to run than 7X / 7100 because of stock parts that have to be replaced every race.

[QUOTE=GUNIT;10815338]
stock (may be re-inforced) suspension components,front wheel travel limited to 12",

What exactly does this mean? Say I have a 1986 toyota with ifs. I have to use the stock A arms but I can beef them up or can I make new ones but use the stock mounting location?

There are lots of 7200 trucks around here for sale. My buddy just sold his for about 60K with spare parts and some tires. But like stated above prob dont want to start here, the guy up the street just finished a new truck with well over 100K in it and has lots of experience.

You cant just jump in with the top dogs. they will eat you alive!!!
you have to start low and earn your way to the top classes of the dez.
unless you have so much money you dont know what to do with it and in that case just jump in and join the rest of the fags at the back of the pack blowing their shit up everywhere they go, making fools of them selfs.

Um, aside from Rob Mac (and maybe 1 or 2 others), which TT and class 1 drivers are hired guns who earned their seat in the top classes? Yes, most of them learned to drive in the slower/cheaper classes, but virtually none of them earned their way into the top classes, they all bought their way in. All of the big teams are privately funded by either the driver, or the driver's dad, so is the OP or his dad have the cash, why not race a TT?

A few TTs and 1 cars have real sponsorship, but not many. Most of the logos you see on the side of the truck are those of the driver's company, and those that do have other people's companies backing their efforts are still paying the majority out of their own pockets.

Herbst- Daddy's money early on, Pay their own way
Gordon- Pays his own way
Pistola- Pays his own way
Andy Mac- Dad's money
Mark McMillan- Pays his own way
Baldwin- Pays his own way
Post- Pays his own way
Householder- Pays his own way
Phluger- Pays his own way
Steele-Pays his own way
Stout- Pays his own way
Vildosola- Pays his own way

You get the idea

If you're talking about co-dogs, then there are quite a few who have been asked by owners to be co-dogs and get to do it for free because they proved they can be an asset in the race-car. However the vast majority are still just guys either splitting the cost of the race with the owner, or the owner's kid.

There are just as many, or more, fags blowing their shit up at the back of the pack in 1450 as TT.


While I love the 1450 class because you can drive to the race in your race-truck, race, then drive home, I'd start in either a 9 or 1600 car if you just want to race. A 9 car doesn't make a great toy the way a 1450 truck does, but they've been honed for decades so finding good info on what works and doesn't work is easy. You can enter either class 9 or sportsman non-v8 buggy if you want to race for cheap. Yeah it's a VW, but once you get to know the car, because it only has like 4 moving parts you can do a full prep in a weekend by yourself. 1600 is the other class to consider, it's a more compettative class, so chances are you'll get your ass handed to you by the big guys, but it's a lot of fun at the local level where competition isn't as fierce. You can race MDR with a home-built motor, but to keep up in SNORE, SCORE, BITD, and most MORE races you'll need a big name motor builder. The chassis on 1600 cars are stout and last a very long time, so buying an older one is nothing to worry about, and they're still pretty fun to take to the dunes or just go fuck around with in the desert.

What exactly does this mean?...

What rule book and class are you looking at?

hey,

Im just feeling this out. Me and some buddies are wanting to build up a truck and race in some of the baja races for 2010/2011. Probably start out in the 250/500.

we all have decent fab skills but have never built anything like a baja rig.

is there a class that is good to start in? Looking at one of the stock truck classes (7's) and staying away from vw as no one has any vw experience.

what says the pbb?

thanks,
John


What is your budget ?

I will tell you that the cost of buying or building the actual racer is the lest expensive part of desert racing... campaigning the rig is the expensive part.

a low budget baja race effort starts around $20,000 when you factor in prep,travel,lodging, prerunning, entry, and just being there for a week with your crew.

2009 baja 1000 we had 7 chase trucks and a team of 20 for our "low budget " jeepspeed effort :smokin:

[QUOTE=GUNIT;10815338]
stock (may be re-inforced) suspension components,front wheel travel limited to 12",

What exactly does this mean? Say I have a 1986 toyota with ifs. I have to use the stock A arms but I can beef them up or can I make new ones but use the stock mounting location?

Quoted from the SCORE rule book for class 7S and 7SX:

Front and rear suspension must be of the same manufacture, shape, size and configuration as originally produced and installed on the chassis to which it is mounted. All suspension components except shock absorbers and rear leaf springs will remain in the original stock locations and with the original stock mounting methods maintained. All components will be original manufacturers design with the exception of shocks. A arms, I beams or front axles must remain stock as delivered by the manufacturer on the chassis to which it is mounted. Parts may be strengthened by adding material but must remain stock shape, size and configuration as delivered by the manufacturer. Stock pivot points must be retained but mounting points may be strengthened. Front springs must remain in stock location and retain original stock concept (leaf, coil, torsion).

Really, the first step before considering a build is to get a rule book. I suggest that you get a SCORE rule book and build to SCORE specs. Your finished work will have considerably more value than if you build a truck for one of the lesser series

thanks for all the replies guys,

Im thinkin the budget for the actual truck with ancillaries will be 20k with an additional 5kish for fuel, lodging, food, entry fees and stuff like that.

Im thinkin about doing a ford ranger for the 1450/7open class so that it would fit in with both score and mdr/others. Keep it cheap with mostly stock suspension, little engine/trans work, can do a cage myself, then seats, radio,gps and fuel cell be the biggest expenses.

Its so hard to find information from the different events. Mdr, bitd, etc the rules for the trucks just seem pretty vague when I go to the sites.

Also, is score the only body that requires cage inspections before the actual event?

thanks, John

I see the rule book expires 2010? Should I wait to buy a revised version?

Hey Omaha Zuk : Done't listen to these off-road wannabees... they all sit in front of keyboards in their tighty-whiteys, drinking Mountain Dew all day!

Go see that Warren Buffett feller in town (works better if you are a close relative if his) and ask him to sponsor your Baja race effort -- GO right to Trophy Truck -- screw all those dune buggies and flatbiller rides! When Warren ("may I call you Warren?") writes you a check for $500,000.... kindly insist that he add another zero on that figure! He ok with that? You are good to go... you are gonna need a video guy... here is my number.....

Seee

thanks for all the replies guys,

Im thinkin the budget for the actual truck with ancillaries will be 20k with an additional 5kish for fuel, lodging, food, entry fees and stuff like that.

Im thinkin about doing a ford ranger for the 1450/7open class so that it would fit in with both score and mdr/others. Keep it cheap with mostly stock suspension, little engine/trans work, can do a cage myself, then seats, radio,gps and fuel cell be the biggest expenses.

Its so hard to find information from the different events. Mdr, bitd, etc the rules for the trucks just seem pretty vague when I go to the sites.

Also, is score the only body that requires cage inspections before the actual event?

thanks, John

John,

With that budget, I would (as Maxyedor suggested) race Class 9. With a 25K budget, the logistic costs will be higher than you think (especially if you race 6+ times a year). ;) You can get into a good turn key car for 10K. Car counts are really good for the class in MORE & SNORE and MDR Superstition (not MDR California). Once you are ready to move into another class, the 9 car will probably hold it's value for another new driver to get into. I know a 9 car owner with a car for sale if you are interested.:grinpimp:

You don't have to have the cage tagged in the smaller series, but you will have to pass tech. SNORE runs their own tech (pretty easy) MORE and MDR use ARTS who run a tight program. Unless there is some serious issue, tech will let you run with a cage issue, but will ask that it be resolved by the next race.:homer:

Buy a truck that is race ready. Look in Race-Dezert classifieds. Great deal on Jamie Chambells 7s truck in there just to name one. a great class to start in and a great truck for the price. Also lots of others on there. Personally I am a truck guy. The Class 9 is like Dinosaur racing. Gutless/ rough riding wonder and well just my opinion.

Im thinkin the budget for the actual truck with ancillaries will be 20k with an additional 5kish for fuel, lodging, food, entry fees and stuff like that.



1. you should be able to get a decent entry level racer for $20k

2. no way in hell you can race a score baja race for $5000

you can easily race an MDR or similar series for that amount.


here let me demonstrate

2010 BAja 500

entry fee $2000
IRC first time rental fee $600
racefuel @5mpg and $8.00 per gallon $800
mexi auto insurance for a week $300
tow rig fuel for your 4000 mile round trip 15mpg at $300per gallon $800

that leaves you with $500 for food and lodging for a week
and you only have 1 chase truck ( you can do the 500 with 2 min )

my point is.... do your self a favor and get a few MDR races under your belt before heading to baja.

the sad truth is that your odds of going more then a few miles in the race are small...so learn the ropes at a local series race before heading to Baja.

1. you should be able to get a decent entry level racer for $20k

2. no way in hell you can race a score baja race for $5000

you can easily race an MDR or similar series for that amount.


here let me demonstrate

2010 BAja 500

entry fee $2000
IRC first time rental fee $600
racefuel @5mpg and $8.00 per gallon $800
mexi auto insurance for a week $300
tow rig fuel for your 4000 mile round trip 15mpg at $300per gallon $800

that leaves you with $500 for food and lodging for a week
and you only have 1 chase truck ( you can do the 500 with 2 min )

my point is.... do your self a favor and get a few MDR races under your belt before heading to baja.

the sad truth is that your odds of going more then a few miles in the race are small...so learn the ropes at a local series race before heading to Baja.

And the Baja 1000 entry will be about 3200 this year, Its always more when its a point to point race.

And Hotel rooms run about $800-1000 for the week. And thats each room. But you can rent a house for $2500 and up.

Okay I'll jump in with a question (not trying to hijack this thread)-what about a class 3 Bronco build?:smokin: Recommended races,costs,etc. Oh yeah I live on the right coast-or close to it.

Okay I'll jump in with a question (not trying to hijack this thread)-what about a class 3 Bronco build?:smokin: Recommended races,costs,etc. Oh yeah I live on the right coast-or close to it.

How far right we talkin? Attica, IN. the home of the Badlands Off Road Park has an event called TREC - Trail Racing Endurance Curcit and it is really worth checking out.

Search Pirate for TREC and you will find a ton of info. Also check out the www.badlandsoffroad.com for a current rule book.

It is just about as close to baja / desert style racing you will find in the eastern half of the nation. For the last event, we had a 9 mile course set up that wound through the entire park. Tight tree lined trails, pea gravel hills that suck up horsepower like you wouldn't believe, hills, valleys, jumps, whoops, you name it and its on the course. Well, except for rocks that is. TREC is not about the difficulty of an obstacle, its about endurance. Keeping the rig together long enough to finish the race!

Personally I would love to see a 78 or 79 Bronco built up for racing TREC. I think it is the perfect platform with the full frame and HD drivetrain. There is one for sale in the chicago area on CL for a decent price.

BTW, we are not hijacking this thread, we are keeping it alive...:smokin:

How far right we talkin? Attica, IN. the home of the Badlands Off Road Park has an event called TREC - Trail Racing Endurance Curcit and it is really worth checking out.

Search Pirate for TREC and you will find a ton of info. Also check out the www.badlandsoffroad.com for a current rule book.

It is just about as close to baja / desert style racing you will find in the eastern half of the nation. For the last event, we had a 9 mile course set up that wound through the entire park. Tight tree lined trails, pea gravel hills that suck up horsepower like you wouldn't believe, hills, valleys, jumps, whoops, you name it and its on the course. Well, except for rocks that is. TREC is not about the difficulty of an obstacle, its about endurance. Keeping the rig together long enough to finish the race!

Personally I would love to see a 78 or 79 Bronco built up for racing TREC. I think it is the perfect platform with the full frame and HD drivetrain. There is one for sale in the chicago area on CL for a decent price.

BTW, we are not hijacking this thread, we are keeping it alive...:smokin:

I live in Greer,SC home of the BMW Z4 and X5 plant.
Indiana is a hell of a lot closer than the left coast. I've got an '85 Bronco that's itching to be built to race.
Thanks for the info!

Next TREC event is June 5th, then we take a break for the summer. There is an event in Sept and the BIG EVENT in October which is also a KOH qualifer!

Let me know if you have any questions.

Come out and Ill take you for a ride in this, my little 1450 truck.

YouTube - Shock Tuning with King Long (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVJbZK8_HLk)

Now she looks like this

YouTube - Fast Ranger Starting the race (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQDJfsgyWVY)

this is some awesome info, i have had the same questions. if any teams need someone to work the pits or anything i just graduated high school and will work for free. i just want to be around and see how everything works.

this is some awesome info, i have had the same questions. if any teams need someone to work the pits or anything i just graduated high school and will work for free. i just want to be around and see how everything works.

We are always looking for volunteers for checkpoints and other help. If you come down to the park just ask for Kyle or Larry and we will get you lined out to help!

If you want to learn the fast way and SAVE a ton of money - shameless plug to follow:


www.desertraceschool.com

We run these as time permits or we meet customers schedules. Currently we offer 30% Off for Pirate4x4 members, and anyone on your team can attend and listen to the school portion for a nominal fee to cover food/lodging.

Commercial over,

Ron

Yeah Larry that TREC series sounds like a blast! If you would PM your phone number to me (unless you wouldn't want to) I've got some questions about the rules. I would just type them out in a PM to you but my fingers would probably fall off from all the typing:laughing:

Won't be able to make it this year but next year I'll be making the trip up there. And let me know about a good place to stay and some good mom-n-pop restaurants.

Do yall eat grits up there or is Indiana too yankee:flipoff2: for grits? LOL

Build a Bronco and join us in Class 3. JeepSpeed is cool, but a V-8 is more fun.

MDR started this class I believe last year. Im not sure if other sanctions have picked it up yet.

http://www.mdrracing.com/_doc/2009_1500_rules.pdf

long travel bolt on kits Camburg, Mazzula, BBR to name a few.

Long drive for you but I just started racing off road myself here in the PNW. I don't say desert because it's more of a long-short course. There is 3 races a year right now with a actual desert race to be added next year. The track is about 10 miles long and there are several cheap classes. The cheapest being the one I am in which is the Suzuki class.

You won't win much money but it is a very cheap way to see if you like it and gain some experience. this is the first full year so there is not much competition either. Hell, I won my 1st ever race. I have about $2,500.00 into my car right now. Entry fees are only $100.00.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d35/bigzook/CHerry%20Bomb/Eddieville2010069.jpg

Long drive for you but I just started racing off road myself here in the PNW. I don't say desert because it's more of a long-short course. There is 3 races a year right now with a actual desert race to be added next year. The track is about 10 miles long and there are several cheap classes. The cheapest being the one I am in which is the Suzuki class.

You won't win much money but it is a very cheap way to see if you like it and gain some experience. this is the first full year so there is not much competition either. Hell, I won my 1st ever race. I have about $2,500.00 into my car right now. Entry fees are only $100.00.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d35/bigzook/CHerry%20Bomb/Eddieville2010069.jpg

Is this the event that got coverage recently in a magazine? Maybe Four Wheeler or ... ??? It looked like an awesome race through the woods and trails of the PNW.

No, this one was in south central Washington in a field. It is a motorcycle track most of the year. More info is here http://www.nwprerunners.com/

Yeah Larry that TREC series sounds like a blast!

believe me, it is!

Ive been wondering this aswell, but not as a long term thing.
I just want to do it once 2 years from now
Theres a stock full class if im not mistaken right?
Body lifts to accomdate tires, required saftey cage, basically stock engine.
Ive already got a truck and i have read that its best to buy one, but im planning this two years from now.

I got a new truck and my old one just sits, 2wd 96 f150 with the twin i beam front end

I kinda want to put my flame suit on for this one

For now i dont need to go out and buy a vehicle to race one time, ive got a tow rig, got a starting vehicle, i can scrounge up a chase vehicle in the mean time. Im a mechanic but i cant weld (or type) for shit, so id be finding someone to build me a cage. Have a few friends thatd love to go down to baja 1000

so heres the question, what would it take to go down and run the basically stock full class (i hope i read that right)?

Or should i just let the idea go?

Dont really care if i make it 5 miles or a 100 miles or the whole. I just want to do it once

Opinions?
Advice?
Reading material?

Thanks

Build a Bronco and join us in Class 3. JeepSpeed is cool, but a V-8 is more fun.



I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that my 4.0 will run with most V-8's, but that's a whole other topic.


Jeepspeed is only cool because there is great competition in the class. We always have 15-20 cars in the class and have had 30 a time or two. Even if you are having a bad day, there is someone to dice it up with.

Ive been wondering this aswell, but not as a long term thing.
I just want to do it once 2 years from now
Theres a stock full class if im not mistaken right?
Body lifts to accomdate tires, required saftey cage, basically stock engine.
Ive already got a truck and i have read that its best to buy one, but im planning this two years from now.

I got a new truck and my old one just sits, 2wd 96 f150 with the twin i beam front end

I kinda want to put my flame suit on for this one

For now i dont need to go out and buy a vehicle to race one time, ive got a tow rig, got a starting vehicle, i can scrounge up a chase vehicle in the mean time. Im a mechanic but i cant weld (or type) for shit, so id be finding someone to build me a cage. Have a few friends thatd love to go down to baja 1000

so heres the question, what would it take to go down and run the basically stock full class (i hope i read that right)?

Or should i just let the idea go?

Dont really care if i make it 5 miles or a 100 miles or the whole. I just want to do it once

Opinions?
Advice?
Reading material?

Thanks

You're crazy, almost no chance of finishing, but that's what makes Baja, Baja. If it's a dream, go for it, you only live once! I'd consider the 500 over the 1000 though, better chance of a finish, less logistics to deal with.

Have a few friends thatd love to go down to baja 1000
...
Or should i just let the idea go?

Dont really care if i make it 5 miles or a 100 miles or the whole. I just want to do it once

Opinions?
Advice?
Reading material?

Thanks

If you want to do it once, rent a race car or truck, arrange for pit support (FAIR, BFG etc) and have your friends come down and help for probably less money than you would spend trying to make your stock truck SCORE legal.

Here are a few links:

http://www.bajaracingadventures.com/

http://www.wideopenbaja.com/individuals-groups-racing.php

http://www.trophylite.com/?gclid=CL7UsJnY3KICFQgSbAodTEZBxQ

Ive been wondering this aswell, but not as a long term thing.
I just want to do it once 2 years from now
Theres a stock full class if im not mistaken right?
Body lifts to accomdate tires, required saftey cage, basically stock engine.
Ive already got a truck and i have read that its best to buy one, but im planning this two years from now.

I got a new truck and my old one just sits, 2wd 96 f150 with the twin i beam front end

I kinda want to put my flame suit on for this one

For now i dont need to go out and buy a vehicle to race one time, ive got a tow rig, got a starting vehicle, i can scrounge up a chase vehicle in the mean time. Im a mechanic but i cant weld (or type) for shit, so id be finding someone to build me a cage. Have a few friends thatd love to go down to baja 1000

so heres the question, what would it take to go down and run the basically stock full class (i hope i read that right)?

Or should i just let the idea go?

Dont really care if i make it 5 miles or a 100 miles or the whole. I just want to do it once

Opinions?
Advice?
Reading material?

Thanks

A stock class race truck isn't JUST a stock truck with a cage. However, I have seen such vehicles pass tech. The one off the top of my head burned to the ground in 6 miles.

Here's the deal breaker for the Stock classes being cheap up front even if you have someone to do all the fab work: SHOCKS. If you want to beat the time limit to the FIRST checkpoint, plan on spending a minimum of 4k on shocks. If you want to actually race. . .$8 to $12K. My stock-mini has 6 triple bypass shocks. 4x at $1200 and 2x at $1800. . .needless to say, we bought it USED.

Another common misconception of the stock classes is that they are cheap to prep. . .the sad fact is that every suspension piece has to be replaced or rebuilt every time you run it.

Buying a used truck or buggy is the only way to go. If you insist on building something out of a truck, look at the 7s/sx class. It costs the same to build as a stock class, but you can reinforce everything and remove a lot of sheetmetal. Other than that. . .buy a Jeepspeed that has already been teched and start there.

Ill head over the race dezert forum and see if i can find any stock class truck builds.

The truck i have holds sentimental value, thats why i want to run it, i know it sounds crazy. I cant sell it, who would buy it? If im going to destroy it on my farm might as well make it worth it and do it at one of the most famous races in the world.

Ive got two years to think about what im doing, thanks the for the advice guys.

Anthony

Run away, don't do it! It's bad enough when you live local and have the bug but to live 2k miles and have the need; it will be tough... If your goal is "Baja" I'd suggest you make a trip to Valhalla and see it first hand . Lots of teams will take any help they can find and it's not as easy as you think, going in blind is not real smart and a little knowledge is invaluable down there and it will save you a ton of time and pain. FYI, The bigger the vehicle and more complex, the more more spares/parts you need to make a realistic effort. You might rethink the VW thing: They are pretty easy to work on, relitively inexpensive to race and very durable. Having raced in CA, AZ, NV and Baja for @ 20 years in classes: 9, 16, 10, 11, 12 and Trophylite, IMO the best bang for your buck for racing in "Baja" would be 9 or 16. Both are comparably inexpensive, pretty reliable if prepped correctly and well with good parts, and very capable of finishing in the allotted time. If you're thinking local racing in the west, I'd suggest the same classes and MORE or SNORE as a great place to start. You can get into a competitive car for a reasonable price, smaller is easier, simple to work on once you learn the ropes and with the long haul you have it'll mean less parts & smaller-lighter stuff to haul plus they have a very high finishing rate. Keep in mind in addition to the vehicle the parts cache' you'll need to keep it going to finish is much easier to deal on a limited buggy than truck stuff and if you stack it up, they are easier to repair... Again an opinion and not baggin on the truck crowd, we loved driving the TL but having done both buggy's are easier on prep, the wallet and logistics and you'll have less geometry issues. Building vs buying, it's way cheaper to buy a good used vehicle especially in this market. You'll pay pennies on the $ compared to a build, but remember; just because someone has a welder they are not a fabricator... If you are thinking "Baja" remember, it has to be SCORE tagged and meet their requirements if you plan to run the B1K, 500 or SF. Get a SCORE rule book and make sure if you're buy something it has a SCORE tag. Enjoy!