any thoughts?

Originally posted by Old Scout
any thoughts?
JUNK… nice drive shaft too..

looks fine to me, add a couple gussets and go

i just shot soda out of my nose.

horrible, what wa he thinking?

i was thinking another bend or two in the tie rod would be a good thing..

Originally posted by ol John Henry

JUNK… nice drive shaft too..

mayby he'll run a square tube one like all the 'yoda guys .. lol

I would call it "Impending Death"

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3
i was thinking another bend or two in the tie rod would be a good thing..

Looks like a stock tie-rod with oil-pan clearing bends in it.

OS - is that Bill's original draglink, now his trail-spare?

I think it looks fine.....it'd stress it a little before I took off. Gussets would be good.

Originally posted by Old Scout
any thoughts?

Nice RS........

Nice RS........

Why do you have to say stuff like that? It appears to be sometype of overpowering mission that you just can't stay away from....

Originally posted by tsm1mt
OS - is that Bill's original draglink, now his trail-spare?

DING DING WE have a Weiner!

I know he lurks so I was hoping he would step up.

Originally posted by uglyscout


Why do you have to say stuff like that? It appears to be sometype of overpowering mission that you just can't stay away from....

I'm sorry. Which stuff is it I said that seems to have offended you?

Z links are WAAAAAYYYY over rated :rolleyes:


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid24/p951fdb767a4599108e3b2835074622b8/fd933b56.jpg

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
Z links are WAAAAAYYYY over rated :rolleyes:


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid24/p951fdb767a4599108e3b2835074622b8/fd933b56.jpg

ROFL. till I go high steer, I'll take my Z-Link.

Gotta figure out some bump stops to keep the pan and tie rod from getting intimate though. I think I have something figured out though. Just gotta start collecting parts. Since I have the warn hub conversion for Scout hubs, I have to go the route that uses Scout hubs.

I would call it a accident waiting to happen. I hope that thing never sees pavement.
Gussets and such make all the difference but as it sits please keep a safe distance from others.:(

Originally posted by Hooper
Gotta figure out some bump stops to keep the pan and tie rod from getting intimate though.

Wouldn't a single sump oil pan help a bunch? Once ya go SOA ya don't need that funky double hump pan anymore.

you guys are doing some scary shit

im running 1 1/2 DOM tubing and still dont feel comfortable with the Z formation

Originally posted by james west
you guys are doing some scary shit

im running 1 1/2 DOM tubing and still dont feel comfortable with the Z formation

That's the whole :idea: :idea:!! Make fun of the scary shit.

Some por members think this is cool:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=893087

and many of us go this way:

Originally posted by scoutver5.7


Wouldn't a single sump oil pan help a bunch? Once ya go SOA ya don't need that funky double hump pan anymore.

?? Who says? DK. You could be right, but see the dent in the flat surface of the front sump?

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Technical/DentedOilPanAndOilPanHump.JPG

I think that was caused by my tie rod. Still haven't figured out exactly how it got that far up there, but it is the only thing that makes sense. It sure was not there when I put the engine back in the truck.. Since the top of the axle tube is about 2 inches higher than the top of the tie rod, that means the top of the axle was well into the hump when the tie rod hit. Without the hump, I would have slammed axle to pan for sure. I guess I should climb under there with a ratchet strap and see if I can pull the axle that far up

If you have flex, you need the double sump. Course, if you are running stiff lift springs or other springs that don't flex, or your shocks keep you from stuffing your axle, it is not an issue. I have seen several rigs with high steer tie rods banging their tie rod into their oil pan. I think with high steer the tie rod is higher than the top of the axle tube, but flexy springs can let your axle get a long way up under there. I'm going to have to take a look at Rusty's rig. He is RS and has relocated his axle, so I am wondering if his axle has been tagging his oil pan since it seems like the axle will not ride upward on the correct arc to fit into the hump...

For single sump pans, I think Tom M and Justin were measuring some. A truck pan still is the same depth up front as a Scout II pan, so the problem remains. Only answer I can see is to fab bump stops near the middle of the axle. The bump stop keeps the axle from stuffing as far in the middle, but you keep axle end articulation.

Originally posted by Old Scout


That's the whole :idea: :idea:!! Make fun of the scary shit.

Some por members think this is cool:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=893087

and many of us go this way:

Barney Purple.... Coool.

You know Hoop you sure you are going to bash the pan? I've got a hell lot less clearance then you and I still have not smacked the pan. I could only see a jump or drop causing the front to compress allowing the tie to hit the pan. When the axle is twisted the tie is almost at neutral.

Originally posted by Hooper


Barney Purple.... Coool.

Come awn Hoop, if your going to try and give me some shit at least try to get it right!:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by jdjanda
You know Hoop you sure you are going to bash the pan? I've got a hell lot less clearance then you and I still have not smacked the pan. I could only see a jump or drop causing the front to compress allowing the tie to hit the pan. When the axle is twisted the tie is almost at neutral.

I guess we now know that Hooper just GETS IT more than you! :flipoff2:

Dropping off a ledge'll do it.

Say, Hooper, did you notice the ding BEFORE the little friendly comp in Naches? (right?) or after?

I did some measuring, and with MY SOA front and the bump stops I'm using that hit the axle U-bolt plate, I have about 4" or so of clearance between the axle tube and bottom/front of the pan at full stuff.

That means I could run a rear-sump truck pan (74/75) doing away with the hump, which only really buys me a little better oil flow from the front area to the back - it'd flow back that way naturally, without me having to point the nose at the clouds off a jump to get it to all slosh back there.

What it also means is I need to lower my engine and tranny about 3" to relieve the front driveshaft angle (and cut down on the amount of slip join I need - might help on that pogo-ing t'case problem I've had).

Also means that even though I have a great COG already, it'll be even better. Could put the 36" TSLs on the racer and still have a lower COG than I do now with the 31s. :D

I'm limiting my up travel to keep the springs away from the draglink, and to avoid over-over-negativing of the front springs.

Originally posted by jdjanda
You know Hoop you sure you are going to bash the pan? I've got a hell lot less clearance then you and I still have not smacked the pan. I could only see a jump or drop causing the front to compress allowing the tie to hit the pan. When the axle is twisted the tie is almost at neutral.

I have to agree that I don't think its Hoop's Drag Link hitting his pan... my shits up much highter, and I don't hit, and a bounce the truck all the time. Plus my drag-link is closer to the pan than his (shorter pitman arm, Hoop runs the stock arm).


I suspect that dent was already there, or from the SUA days... we'll have to get together and flex the crap out of your junk and see if it even gets close.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


I guess we now know that Hooper just GETS IT more than you! :flipoff2:

Dropping off a ledge'll do it.

Say, Hooper, did you notice the ding BEFORE the little friendly comp in Naches? (right?) or after?

I did some measuring, and with MY SOA front and the bump stops I'm using that hit the axle U-bolt plate, I have about 4" or so of clearance between the axle tube and bottom/front of the pan at full stuff.

That means I could run a rear-sump truck pan (74/75) doing away with the hump, which only really buys me a little better oil flow from the front area to the back - it'd flow back that way naturally, without me having to point the nose at the clouds off a jump to get it to all slosh back there.

What it also means is I need to lower my engine and tranny about 3" to relieve the front driveshaft angle (and cut down on the amount of slip join I need - might help on that pogo-ing t'case problem I've had).

Also means that even though I have a great COG already, it'll be even better. Could put the 36" TSLs on the racer and still have a lower COG than I do now with the 31s. :D

I'm limiting my up travel to keep the springs away from the draglink, and to avoid over-over-negativing of the front springs.
What is also means is that you wouldn't have to rebuild oil pumps anymore.... you could just buy a brand new one for the truck pan.

Originally posted by TORC

What is also means is that you wouldn't have to rebuild oil pumps anymore.... you could just buy a brand new one for the truck pan.

No, the '74/'75 truck pan Tom mentioned uses the same REAR pick-up that the Scout's use.... the FRONT sump pan are HUGE in the front.....

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


No, the '74/'75 truck pan Tom mentioned uses the same REAR pick-up that the Scout's use.... the FRONT sump pan are HUGE in the front.....

Yep, I'll be keeping the used, Gryphin Racing re-built "internal bypass" oil pump with the 74/75 rear sump truck pan.

I could probably run a front sump pan now (I'd have to measure) but I wouldn't be able to lower the engine, unless I moved it back far enough to keep the pan all the way away from the axle.. and that involves major surgery to the firewall, that I'm not ready to tackle.

my bad :emb2:

Originally posted by patstanley
i just shot soda out of my nose.
WTMI ~ nice image.

Originally posted by Old Scout
any thoughts?


Not even good enough for a spare. I'm still laughing though. Good thing I wasn't drinking soda.