The transmission went out in my 87 1/2 4x4 suburban, I found a local 700r4 in a 93 c2500. Car-part found it for me so I would assume that it is interchangeable, but I am questioning whether it will as it is coming from a 2wd and going into a 4wd.

they will not interchange 2wd to 4wd without changing output shafts, also 700r4's are interchangable from 87-92 or early 93, they changed to the 4l60e in 93

yep. and changing the output shaft requires taking the tranny apart, so no real savings there.

they will not interchange 2wd to 4wd without changing output shafts, also 700r4's are interchangable from 87-92 or early 93, they changed to the 4l60e in 93

I am curious why this transmission even came up, my search criteria where
1987
700r4 with auxiliary valve body
and 4X4

the search came back with many results but this one in particular is local to me, only has 66k miles on it and is only $400

Can I take the output shaft out of my 4X4 tranny and put it into the 2wd one? Is this a terribly difficult task? I swapped the automatic input on an np231 transfer case for my manual one would this be a similarly difficult task?

It's way too much work to be worth while. You have to completely tear down the transmission to get to the output shaft. You should be able to have yours rebuilt for about $600. Have you checked into that?

yes you can change the output shafts. if you're mechanically inclined it wouldnt be too hard just take lots of pics and pay attention!! what you need to do to swap them is pull the pan, pull the filter and the lock-up solenoid(held on by 2 10mm bolts), pull the pump out(you can stick a long screw driver between the case and the pump and jiggle it back and forth kinda forcefully and it should pop out), the 2-4 band wraps around the first drum thats in there and there is a stud type thing(band anchor) on the bottom(pan side) that you can pry the band off of with a screw driver, once the band is loose the drums will pull out together then the sun gear will be sitting there and you can pull that out then there is a little snap ring that holds the shaft in. pull the band out before you try to put the drums back in, you will have to put that in after the drums

It's way too much work to be worth while. You have to completely tear down the transmission to get to the output shaft.

you dont have to tear the whole thing down just basically get the front drums out. although its easy for me to say seeing as how i do it all the time.

An update: Good news, I called today and the monkey that put it in the car-part system didnt know what they where talking about. It is in fact a 92 K2500, so I should be GTG.

One question for you experienced transmission people. The car part system asked if my suburban had an axillary valve body or not. I am not sure which it has, but the one I am looking at does have the auxiliary valve body, what are my potential complications?

Also, being as the tranny is coming out of a k2500 instead of a k1500 will it theoretically be a stronger tranny?

Aren't the 90 and newer ones computer controled?And I thought the 90 and up were the 4L60 or 80?

Aren't the 90 and newer ones computer controled?And I thought the 90 and up were the 4L60 or 80?

Man, if that is the case, I hope someone that knows for sure pipes up soon, I have already put the wheels in motion to buy this tranny.

i got a 700r for sale if you want it im in portland oregon not sure ware your from

Man, if that is the case, I hope someone that knows for sure pipes up soon, I have already put the wheels in motion to buy this tranny.

This was just a quick Google search, which lead to Wikipedia...so take it for what its worth

The Hydramatic 700R4 was introduced in 1982 for use in Chevrolet/GMC vehicles.

In 1990 the 700R4 was renamed the 4L60.

1992 was the last year of wide spread usage of the 700R4 (4L60).

1993 Camaro, Corvette & Typhoon were equipped with the last production 700R4's, also the last design change of the 700R4 with an added checkball to the valve body.

In 1992 electronic controls were added and it became the 4L60-E. The 4L60E went into service in trucks, vans, and SUVs in 1993 (for the record, some HD trucks had the 4L60) and in all RWD passenger cars (Corvette, F and B/D bodies) in 1994.

In 2001 an updated version, the 4L65-E, was introduced. Five-pinion planetaries, along with a strength-improved output shaft, were improved to withstand the 300+ ft·lb (over 400 N·m) of torque of the 6.0 Vortec engine.

i just looked it up with a part refrance and it is a 4l60e in a 92 k2500

82-86 no aux valve body

87-92 aux valve body.

93 As stated, last of the 700, also found in B Body as well.


92 6lug 2500 will be a 700r4, 93 up pickups are 4l60e
92 8lug will be a 4l80e

I'd be weary of a low mileage trans out of a 92 model vehicle. Sitting will kill a transmission faster than actually driving it.

82-86 no aux valve body

87-92 aux valve body.

93 As stated, last of the 700, also found in B Body as well.


92 6lug 2500 will be a 700r4, 93 up pickups are 4l60e
92 8lug will be a 4l80e

Lumpdog, you are giving me hope! I would hate to have to pass on this transmission as it is local, very low miles, and cheap. It sounds like my suburban being an 87 would have the auxiliary valve body and if a 92 would have a 700r4, I think they would swap.

I know 700's for sure, it is what I have built my business from..plus I run them in my wheeling rigs. The list I gave is correct.

Now, sometimes people swap things around, so always verify it when you pick it up.

Lumpdog, you are giving me hope! I would hate to have to pass on this transmission as it is local, very low miles, and cheap. It sounds like my suburban being an 87 would have the auxiliary valve body and if a 92 would have a 700r4, I think they would swap.



As a complete unit with converter, 700's will swap from 82 to 92.

Although they all have different internal wiring, they all function in the same basic way.

82-84 units are generally the junk units.
85-86 are better with an upgraded input shaft.
87-92 have the best internals, and a aux VB was added for harsh forward/reverse shifts
87-88 retained the TCC bore making it easier to make it non electronic
89-92 units deleted the TCC bore in the valve body.


Earlier units can be updated with later internals to make them stronger as well. Plus, there are a host of aftermarket upgrades to boot.

But all units can swap parts basically. Confusing yet???

I'd be weary of a low mileage trans out of a 92 model vehicle. Sitting will kill a transmission faster than actually driving it.

it has 66k miles on it, which is low, but not like unheard of.

Personally, I would stay away from used transmissions. Chances are it will cost you more money in the long run.

Best bet as was stated previously is to get yours built. It will cost more than a used one, but you will be happy with it in the long run. You are looking for a better than factory built trans, not just a simple overhaul.

it has 66k miles on it, which is low, but not like unheard of.

My buddy's dad had a 88 Chevy C1500 that only had around 60k on it when the TH400 died behind a stock 305. That transmission could of easily gone over 200k in a heavier truck with a bigger engine. The reason it didn't last is due to the fact it sat more than it was driven. You should be able to find somebody to build your trans for only $100-200 more and it will be better than stock.

$600 for a quality 700 is awfully cheap. Makes me wonder if it would even be worth running........ I spend almost that much in parts alone at my cost, let alone the labor required to build it properly.

I spend around 8 hours building a 700. Checking clearances, cleaning, inspection, and setting it up perfect takes time, but the end result is always worth the effort.

I am thinking more of trying to find someone to rebuild at this point. If I could get someone to rebuild it better than stock for a little more money, I can see the merits of going that route.

Where are you located?

I am located in Cynthiana, KY

Have you tried craigslist? It showed a few builders in louisville.

$600 for a quality 700 is awfully cheap. Makes me wonder if it would even be worth running........ I spend almost that much in parts alone at my cost, let alone the labor required to build it properly.

I spend around 8 hours building a 700. Checking clearances, cleaning, inspection, and setting it up perfect takes time, but the end result is always worth the effort.

is that an hd build? what are you doing for an hd because i have about 1k into mine and thats just parts at my cost too. but i also built mine pretty extreme. also very true that is extremely cheap for a quality trans. i agree to get it rebuilt instead of getting a used one, given you have the $$$ for it

is that an hd build? what are you doing for an hd because i have about 1k into mine and thats just parts at my cost too. but i also built mine pretty extreme. also very true that is extremely cheap for a quality trans. i agree to get it rebuilt instead of getting a used one, given you have the $$$ for it


That is for a good driver, occasional tower rig. For a wheeling rig, I am closer to the $800 parts plus labor, and I spend more time. That's with a host of HD parts, and an HD converter up to 2200 stall (anti balloon plate, torrington bearings). For a nitrous or full on race big block the price goes up the cost of an input shaft.

There are a lot of so called HD parts that I refuse to use. I test every new upgrade in my rigs first, if it makes me happy, it goes on, if not, then it doesn't make the cut.

That is for a good driver, occasional tower rig. For a wheeling rig, I am closer to the $800 parts plus labor, and I spend more time. That's with a host of HD parts, and an HD converter up to 2200 stall (anti balloon plate, torrington bearings). For a nitrous are full on race big block the price goes up the cost of an input shaft.

There are a lot of so called HD parts that I refuse to use. I test every new upgrade in my rigs first, if it makes me happy, it goes on, if not, then it doesn't make the cut.

thats what i thought. thats about what we have in ours. i was just curious because if that was an hd build because i was gonna say wow parts are cheap in your area or something. what are you running for an input shaft for your racing apps? thats a good way to find out what you should be running and not

thats what i thought. thats about what we have in ours. i was just curious because if that was an hd build because i was gonna say wow parts are cheap in your area or something. what are you running for an input shaft for your racing apps? thats a good way to find out what you should be running and not


Usually I make the customer come up with one at that point. I install whatever one they want to buy. I don't want the hassles with warranty if they destroy and input shaft.