I haven't been too worried about this but I need to figure this out now since winter is coming soon. When running 35 spline stubs and warn premium hubs how do you retain the seal to spindle contact? The stub has the snapring groove. The tech dummy at warn says " Oh, they're a full floating design they don't need those" I say BS!! In my locking hub kit came snaprings for 30 spline stubs (1.3"id) and some spirolocks seemingly for the large stubs (1.4"id) but it doesn't appear that even with a snapring in the groove it would hold the stub axle and seal against the back side of the spindle. These are not rear axle full floater locking hubs. (no set screws or blocker rings in the hub body) A standard snapring will not fit in between the drive gear and the stub as the clearance is too small. SO what are you doing to ensure happy bearings in wet conditions??

You talking about the bellow seal on the stub axle, next to the yoke. I noticed the same thing. It does not sit tight to the spindle, and I thought shiat would get in there. So, I pulled the hub off, and there is not snap ring on the end of the stub. Ran it through fordyce a few time, but there is no water in there. :confused:

Originally posted by Keith
You talking about the bellow seal on the stub axle, next to the yoke. I noticed the same thing. It does not sit tight to the spindle, and I thought shiat would get in there. So, I pulled the hub off, and there is not snap ring on the end of the stub. Ran it through fordyce a few time, but there is no water in there. :confused:

Thats the one. Stretch fits over the deflector that is a light press fit to the stub axle yoke.

well crap, fawked up what I said before. What I meant to say was, there is not snap ring groove on the end of the stub, so I can put a snap ring on the keep the seal tight.

When I put mine together, I made a little spacer that fit over the end of the axle, against the inner spline chunk in the hub. I made it about 3/8" long (I can't remember exactly) and then used the Spirol snapring, sandwiching my redneck spacer bit between the Spirol and the hub sprag. Worked great till my hubs decided not to. :( The hubs are still sorta-OK-ish, one of them, the inner sprag ejected its snapring groove off the backside, and then kinda jammed up its return-to-unlock-mode spring. Now I'm running slugs.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
When I put mine together, I made a little spacer that fit over the end of the axle, against the inner spline chunk in the hub. I made it about 3/8" long (I can't remember exactly) and then used the Spirol snapring, sandwiching my redneck spacer bit between the Spirol and the hub sprag. Worked great till my hubs decided not to. :( The hubs are still sorta-OK-ish, one of them, the inner sprag ejected its snapring groove off the backside, and then kinda jammed up its return-to-unlock-mode spring. Now I'm running slugs.

so you are saying you did not have a groove in the end of the axle either?

Damn, when I assembled my alloy 35 spline outers I just used the spirolock in the groove and forgot about it. Didn't even think to see if there was any in-out play in the stub that would prevent the seal from contacting the spindle! :eek: Sure, give me something else to think about now would ya!

Originally posted by Keith
so you are saying you did not have a groove in the end of the axle either?

My outers have a groove in the end of the stub. What I was trying to point out was that it was too far away from the part of the hub it was supposed to ride against, to keep the stub from pulling inboard.

If your outers don't have a groove at all, then (1) you need to make one; and (2) you have my apologies for completely misinterpreting the question.

Although, considering that the more important seal (IMHO, the bellows seal aka K-seal is just a dust slinger) is inside the spindle, next to the needle bearings on the backside, and has about an inch of seal surface on the stub to ride back and forth on, you can probably get by on no stub snap ring.