ok guys, im needing sum help. im gonna run my toys spring under and am needing a lil help with setting my steering up. im running stock yjs, an ifs box and the hy-steer is too tall, its gonna be into the frame. ive done toys soa in the past but im wanting to stay a lil lower and gonna use a virtual lift to get some 35's on. any suggestions on steering other than just going spoa lol and i do like to drive it on the road as well, gonna keep it street legal :flipoff2:

what about using the stock arms?

the axle i have already has the aftermarket arms, so i dont have any stock ones to compare and test fit, that would prolly be my best choise i guess lol

post up somewhere - bet someone would give you a set.

There was a thread here on Toys SPUA:
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,60803.0.html

Maybe Sean at www.lowrangeoffroad.com may have some suggestions.

I workin on gathering my parts for this same thing right now. I have a set of TG 3" springs im going to use upfront. Idk how well its going to work but im going to give it a shot.

Planning on runnin yota low steer with an fj60 box and flat billet pitman arm. I will make my own crossover Y arm. Im planning building it with a front panhard also. No missing link.

yea, im gonna call sean ive ordered almost all my parts from lror and they hav been extremely helpful. lol toy, im just wanting to stay spua, partially because id like just a lil lower cog ( i think it would work well at the places i run here ) plus i like to drive it daily but mostly cuz i havnt done one like this yet and am very curious :D

.... im just wanting to stay spua, partially because id like just a lil lower cog ........but mostly cuz i havnt done one like this yet and am very curious :D

EXACTLY WHAT IM THINKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I want to be as low as possible, works well offroad, DDs like stock should be (I have a 16v:flipoff2:) As much factory sheet metal as I can to start with. Yotas and 35's. I plan to 3 link the rear and leave spring the front. If im not happy with the leaves then it will get links.

I may biuld it all on my built zuk axles i dont know. I hope to have a garage setup by March 1st in my new house.

Would swapping the draglink and tie rod to underneath the arm (drill for heims or drill out and get some tapered inserts?) give you enough clearance?

Or mod the frame. Notch the frame, or chop it off and run it straight out instead of dropping down like stock. Or both. Or, as mentioned, stock arms should work, but you'll need something like a set of FJ tre's to have somewhere to mount your draglink to. Similar to the stock zuk tie rod, but scaled up a bit.

(the low budget way to do it - I've heard works, but haven't tried myself - flip the stock toy tie rod side to side, and a zuk draglink tre will fit in the toy steering damper mount...but the stock box won't give you enough throw for lock to lock steering)

You CAN go spoa and stay low, if you make an effort to. Raise the shackle and spring hangers on the frame to lower it. I have toys and 35s and have a YJs spoa in the rear, with raised shackle hangers and frenched the spring hanger up into the frame/body mount, and made the lowest perches I could for the axle. All of this combined gave me about 2" of lift in the rear, as far as I can tell (not many reference points to measure any more...) based on distance from the axle to the top of the tub. Spring over YJs on 35s with a 16" belly. How low do you hope to end up? That's only about 5" over stock, including gain from tire height.

The advantage to all that instead of just going SPUA is better clearance at the axle, and your roll center is 5-6 inches higher, so less body roll on the street and off-camber.

...im gonna run my toys spring under and am needing a lil help with setting my steering up. ...

Hi Twisted one,

I am doing something similar (linked toys with as little lift as possible). I use the stock steering arms.

I will use these TREs on the drag link:
- Right side: FJ60 right side drag link TRE with ear for steering link; L-thread
- Left side: FJ60 left side drag link TRE; R-thread

Steering link
- Right side: FJ40 pitman arm TRE; R-thread
- Left side: FJ40 drag link TRE from left knuckle; R-thread (I need to pull the TRE for adjustments; but it fits the Sami pitman arm)

pics:
http://up.picr.de/3567260.jpg

http://s1.up.picr.de/3567261.jpg

Side not for those running a Kicker / Tracker steering: If you want to utilize the full steering angle you will need a longer pitman arm. I flattened a dropped Calmini pitman arm to get a longer arm that fits the Kicker box. I have a stronger steering pump so I can live with the reduced power.

Best regards,

Norbert

GM 1 ton tie rod ends

Pretty common swap for Jeep guys. You can get them from Parts Mike.

http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_images/products/1332_image.jpghttp://
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=1332&action=show_detail

that helps alot,i picked up some stock steering arms a couple of days ago, this looks like a winner now, thx guys i appreciate the info and the pix


Ray

nose, did you have to drill the steering arms for the fj ends???

Twisted (and others) can you keep us posted with some pics as you progress? I too want to do a SPUA with Toys this spring.

if there's any old pics floating around, rick went through this with his tuki suzuki and layed out some good info about it. Might be worth having a look at that thread for the text even though the pics are down.

If memory serves, he got a lot of his steering inspiration from one of the formula toys, I want to say the front range f-toy...but searching for info just now I couldn't find anything.

There is info on T u k i over on zukikrawler.com

Edit: this is what he did to solve the lowersteer fight.

nose, did you have to drill the steering arms for the fj ends???

Hi Twisted One,

the Toyota TREs mentioned above fit without drilling. The FJ40 drag link TRE has the larger dia cone that fits the mounting ear on the pass knuckle TRE of the FJ60. I like the TRE better than the heim used on Tuki; as the TRE is a sealed unit.

Best regards,


nose

can you get more pics of whats going on on the passanger side? like i dont quite get it sorry

the TRE connects to the knuckle.

the heim is bolted to the TRE

can you get more pics of whats going on on the passanger side? like i dont quite get it sorry

Hi zukijames,

in case you were referring to my build:
- The TRE bolted into the knuckle (connecting both knuckles via the drag link) has a conical hole for another TRE (slightly larger than the hole in the knuckle.
- The cylindrical TRE bolts into the other TRE. It will connected to the pitman arm via the steering link once I have build the links.

A pic says more than words...:
http://up.picr.de/3579790.jpg

Best regards,

nose

Nose, what radius arms r u running?

Nose, what radius arms r u running?

Hi Toykilla,

the suspension part are from a Range Rover Classic.

Front Radius arms + panhard. As opposed to the RR, I have mounted the radius arms on top of the axle to improve the ground clearance.
http://up.picr.de/1631479.jpg

Rear suspension A-arm on top of the axle with TRE-style ball joint; parallel lower links.
http://up.picr.de/1631477.jpg

These pics show suspension + frame; they are not up to date. I will use smaller dia coils and am currently rebuilding all coil buckets.
http://up.picr.de/1631630.jpg

http://up.picr.de/1631631.jpg

Best regards,

nose

sorry to bring up old post, but where do u get a TRE like that???

sorry to bring up old post, but where do u get a TRE like that???

i just used stock fj 60 ends like show above except i didnt use a hiem but i wish i could have.. i bought both my set from kurt from cruiseroutfitters great guy great with arb stuff also .. and getting japanesse yota parts not shitty stuff from china

sorry to bring up old post, but where do u get a TRE like that???

i just used stock fj 60 ends like show above except i didnt use a hiem but i wish i could have.. i bought both my set from kurt from cruiseroutfitters great guy great with arb stuff also .. and getting japanesse yota parts not shitty stuff from china

This is link to site;
http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/tierodenfj62.html

With that setup did you experience any dead space in the steering. I have a similar setup on one of my Jeeps, Rugged Ridge cross over steering to be specific, and it had a dead spot where the tre on the drag link rotates some when you change directions.