Hope i am in the right section here if not be easy on me.
I have a 86 CJ 6cylinder,in the process of building the engine now.
Next will be the lift it has 31's now and i'd like to go to 33's so what is a good affordable lift to acommodate 33's are all the lift kits pretty much just springs,shocks and u bolts? who has the best catalogs to find parts?
Thanks for any input.:)

The Rubicon Express Extreme comes with everything you would need.

Cutoff wheel or plasma cutter should make 33s fit like champs. I got 35s stuffed with no lift. Get creative :) Going to 33 inchers will make you really wish you changed your gear ratio. If you haven't thought of that maybe you should. A 2.5 inch kit should get you high enough to fit 33 if you dont want to cut too much. When I put on 33 i couldn't use 5th gear anymore.

Rubicon express or old man emu would be your two best options, although both are spendy. I'm getting ready to put wagoneer front spring all the way around on my CJ5, they should give about 2" of lift. They are not a direct replacement though, I'm gonna have to move my shackle hangers and maybe some other stuff. I'm about to start a build thread on it, another user has thread titled 2nd chance spring under, or something like that with info on using waggy springs on a YJ.

Thanks for the responses!
Anybody know anything about the kit 4wheel wholesale sells,there house brand springs,shocks,u bolts,piman arm, and hardware to drop the t case for about 500? seems like a fairly cheap option & supposed to be similar to the procomp lift for a couple hundred less.

Cutoff wheel or plasma cutter should make 33s fit like champs. I got 35s stuffed with no lift. Get creative :) Going to 33 inchers will make you really wish you changed your gear ratio. If you haven't thought of that maybe you should. A 2.5 inch kit should get you high enough to fit 33 if you dont want to cut too much. When I put on 33 i couldn't use 5th gear anymore.

5th gear is out of the question already,i've got a 4 speed.:D

I know that the procomp springs that were on my last yota rode VERY rough, and didn't flex worth a shit. If the 4wheel wholesale springs are similar, I would expect a similar ride. It might not be too bad in a 2" lift, but there are better options out there. Also look into running YJ front springs. You will need a different shackle and shackle hanger, as well as bushing's for a YJ, but the front springs ride and flex better than CJ springs. I'm sure money is a deciding factor, that's why I bought a buddy's used lift when I lifted my CJ the first time.

I know that the procomp springs that were on my last yota rode VERY rough, and didn't flex worth a shit. If the 4wheel wholesale springs are similar, I would expect a similar ride. It might not be too bad in a 2" lift, but there are better options out there. Also look into running YJ front springs. You will need a different shackle and shackle hanger, as well as bushing's for a YJ, but the front springs ride and flex better than CJ springs. I'm sure money is a deciding factor, that's why I bought a buddy's used lift when I lifted my CJ the first time.

Money is not the whole factor i would just like to keep the expense down.
I am not doing a full resto but i have a clean straight CJ to work with.
I have a shop and the tools and ability to do the work myself but would prefer
simple bolt ons cause i don't want or have the time to take on a major project.
At this point i've got a short block on my engine stand i just assembled,the head will go on this week then i am going to pull the trans & transfer case reseal then install the new engine,clutch and reinstall the trans & transfer case.
Just looking to put a simple lift,tires and soft top on then finish cleaning this thing up and using it around town and to run out in the desert for shooting and trails,etc. No major 4x4ing or rock crawling,climbing and mudding.
Can you elaborate on on switching the springs to yj springs and whats involved? Thanks and sorry for being so long winded just trying to give an idea as to where i am at with this jeep.
I know the cj spring ride like sh*t and any improvement would be a bonus.
Would installing yj springs just require changing out the front shackles,and springs?

Get a lift kit right out of your mind. You don't need a kit. Do youself a favor and go get a 4 Wheel Drive Hardware catalog and start poking around. Or you can hop on the internet at www.4wd.com.

As somebody else stated front Waggoneer springs are awesome. Here's a thread on them http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=746492&highlight=soa .

Or just call up BDS or Rubicon Express and get a set of YJ 2.5" lift springs for each corner, some new shocks, maybe a drop pitman arm, and call it a day. You don't need all the other bullshit.

If you do decide to go with waggy springs, if you know how to setup shocks and such so that they allow as much flex as possible without binding then you will probably need extended brakelines as well.

Once you get your lift on, go buy yourself a set of TJ flares to complete the project and you will have way more then enough lift to clear 33s and possibly squeeze in 35s if you ever wanted too. The TJ flares have wider openings then a CJ or YJ flare and allow for bigger tires with less lift and no modifications to your body other then new mounting holes.

Thanks for the responses!
Anybody know anything about the kit 4wheel wholesale sells,there house brand springs,shocks,u bolts,piman arm, and hardware to drop the t case for about 500? seems like a fairly cheap option & supposed to be similar to the procomp lift for a couple hundred less.

I can not say this strongly enough .................................................. .......

DO NOT drop the T-case down.

Rotate the pinion of the rear axle up and get a CV rear driveshaft. You spend
all that labor and $$$$$$ to lift your Jeep for more clearance and then throw
it away by dropping the T-case down. :rolleyes:

A little elaboration on the YJ springs, it's just the front that you want to change over. The YJ front springs are 2.5"s wide compared to CJ front springs being 2"s wide. The extra width allows the springs to have a softer spring rate but still have the same ride height = better ride quality. I believe that all you have to do to run them is switch to 2.5" wide shackle hangers as well as 2.5" wide shackles. The rear spring mount on the frame is already 2.5"s wide, you just need bushings for the front of a YJ, or the rear of a CJ.

I think I got that right, if not somebody will jump in and correct me.

Also I think I said it last time, maybe not, your suspension is the last place you want to cheap out. I did when I lifted mine and I've regretted it ever since. My Jeep rides worse than my old 91 one ton dodge diesel did.

Here's a link to my thread on swapping in wagoneer front springs all the way around on my CJ5.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=852556

Listen to these guys they know and don't get confused it is not hard to figure. I am running a 3.5 bds jeep yj lift on my 79 cj 7 and it flexes great. no trimming and I run 35's with tj flares in the back. Very nice ride. Only thing differant is like said before the front springs are 2.5 wide instead of 2. Get new front frame shackle brackets for a cj but at yj width, everyone has them, 4 wheel drive hardware, more offroad, just look around. Buy some new shackles, I run boomerangs from more and love them. The u bolt plates on the front (plate under leaf springs that hold axle on) will need to be modified or replaced to fit the wider 2.5 springs, I made mine on a drill press. A cheap lift is just that "cheap" I hate them as they ride bad but mostly they look like crap as the wheels are never centered in the wheel wells. I love my bds yj springs, they are garunteed for life and have military raps.

I see that you are rebuilding your six popper(258?) also. If you haven't got a cam for it already you should look into the extreme 4x4 cam from comp cams. That's what I went with when I rebuilt my engine, and I love the power. It works really well with the 258.

Looks like yj springs may be the way to go.
Cost is not the factor just don't want to dump a sh*t load into this jeep by the time i'm done,Still need to buy a soft top for it also.
This is not my "baby" or a project that i really care that much about.I've got the jeep and rather than let it sit not using it i figure dump some $$ into it and run it around town and use it out in the desert for shooting and screwing around.
By the way yes the Comp(cl-68-231-4) cam is in the mail and that is one of the last parts i'm waiting for to finish the engine. Also up in the air about fuel delivery.

On fuel delivery, if your looking for a carburetor, I had a weber and the stock intake on my Jeep for a while. It worked great, ran good, did well with off camber stuff, and bouncy stuff, and seemed to get decent mileage. I am currently running a offenhouser 4bbl intake with a holley 390cfm vacuum secondary carb on it. It has more power, but the mileage sucks ass. It could be the 36's with 4:10's, but I'm blaming the holley. It does ok off road, but I thought the weber was a little better. I also can't tune a carb for shit, so the holley sucks for me because I can't get it to run right, but that can be fixed if you know someone who can tune a carb. I don't.

considering the rubicon express kit now a bit pricey but sems to have everything included and if i understand correctly the kit updates the cj leafs to yjs included with everything to make this a effortless install.
The only thing not included is the shocks,any opinions on this lift?Has anyone done it? I have a connection on the 4.5" complete kit for about 850.00.
See them listed all over the net for over 1200.

If I had my CJ to do over again, I would go 4.56, Bronco 9" rear, chromo the front 30, SUA Waggy fronts on all four corners, 35" with high lined hood and cut the rear corners. 4:1 lowmax, with 32 spline front and rear, flat skid of course.




I did buy the 4wd Hardware 4" kit a few weeks after I first bought the jeep (before I knew about Pirate). It got the job done, had PLENTY of room for 33's. I ended up taking a spring out to help soften things up.

As you can see, plenty of room for 35's on a 4" SUA with TJ flares.

2006: pre pirate
http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt144/fishontro/tjflare1.jpg

2009: post pirate
http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt144/fishontro/low13.jpg

I can not say this strongly enough .................................................. .......

DO NOT drop the T-case down.

Rotate the pinion of the rear axle up and get a CV rear driveshaft. You spend
all that labor and $$$$$$ to lift your Jeep for more clearance and then throw
it away by dropping the T-case down. :rolleyes:

Eh? Can you say that again? I didn't hear you...

I got 35s stuffed with no lift.

Mind posting pics? I've been thinking about doing the same

The RE 4.5 lift comes with everythign you need...but...0" Waggy SPUA on all for will give you 4" stretch in wheelbase (if you mount them reversed) and ~1.75" lift.

Spring rate is key for a good ride and good flex...stick to around 300lb/in. If you went with Rancho RS44044 springs which is what A LOT of guys run it will net you about 3-3.5", give you a 4" WB stretch and a pretty nice ride.

Couple RS44044s with Bilsteins or some other GOOD shock and it will ride QUITE NICELY. Keep in mind any time you run a longer spring (even if it's just a lift spring) you will want to run a longer shackle so you have a wide enough arch to get full suspension travel.

This is if you want to piece-meal a lift...

Personally I run a 3" Black Diamond lift kit with 1.75" LIFT shackle and a 3/4 elliptical rear supsension. I have Bilstein 5125s out back and the rear shocks from the kit in the front. I just put the 3/4 elliptical in the rear of my truck and will be re-doing the front suspension some time in the next year - just want a better ride out of it and some WB stretch - I plan on running Waggy Springs in the front of my rig for this exact purpose - just not sure of which yet...

Here is a pic of me flexed so I could measure for a front DS after my D300 rotation - btw I completely agree with NOT LOWERING YOUR XFER CASE:

http://sites.google.com/site/tomeshjeep/_/rsrc/1254921964810/jeepin-/suspension/IMG00001-20091006-1505.jpg?height=315&width=420

http://sites.google.com/site/tomeshjeep/_/rsrc/1254922047992/jeepin-/suspension/IMG00002-20091006-1506.jpg?height=315&width=420

I have stock yj springs on my cj5 right now. I used a set of rear cj u bolt plates and cj rear spring hangersfor the front of the cj. I made my shackles about 1/2 inch longer than the stock ones. someone makes a shackle for the front to adapt the jy springs to the 2 inch wide cj hanger, but I forget who. I also had to drill out the rivit that holds the front frame crossmember on and move the spring hanger front using that hole and the original front hanger hole. Dont forget to get new u bolts. And I agree with everyone else I hate seeing a t case hanging 8 inches below a jeep. Mine is moved up about 1 or 2 inches fron the stock location.

The cheap way to lift is a spring over. It will give you about 5" and you can reuse most of your stock parts. Just my 2 cents.

The cheap way to lift is a spring over. It will give you about 5" and you can reuse most of your stock parts. Just my 2 cents.
:shaking:

I ordered the 4.5 RE. It was an easy install and everything is included. There is a guy selling them here on Pirate that gives a great price including shipping. The ride is good for a leaf spring vehicle and it gives plenty of room for 33's. When I was looking into the SOA option I found if you set up the steering correctly the price was not that much different from your Rubicon express qoute.

The cheap way to lift is a spring over. It will give you about 5" and you can reuse most of your stock parts. Just my 2 cents.

Not even close my friend. You can't do a SOA lift correctly for much less then 1k between, time, parts, materials and labor (yours or somebody elses). And thats not including the time you will have to spend taking apart the springs and dialing in the spring packs to your rigs weight multiple times if you made bastard packs, and even more to the cost of the swap if you bought aftermarket springs.