Howdy all, Ive been lurking here for years, watching builds and such off and on but figured i should register and get in on the action.

Im Kenny, originally from Canada, live in southeast Texas now and ive got a 1997 GMC k1500 ext cab, 4x4 with a vortec 350 and auto trans. Ive been into fast cars for a while but recently sold my built cobra mustang to afford school. My dad bought the truck new in '97 as a farm truck for our farm in Canada and i bought it from him in the fall of '06, its completely stock other than a headache rack that i just got for free but dont think ill use, its never been in a shop for a repair, had shocks replaced, brakes done and an alternator rebuild, otherwise its a cherry.

Ive been doing some browsing on here and ive debated keeping the gmc as a dd and buying a yota or a jeep to build but i like my fullsize and my plan is to use it as a place to live this summer for a 10 week road trip. I plan on getting it into shape quick and cheap so i can be at all the different off road events this year, not competing but just there. Which means that my two main goals are cheap and reliable.

Ive seen some pretty wicked builds on here and i know lots of yall have some trucks youve been building on for years, i would like to know what out of everything youve done or seen done you would do if you had the chance to start from scratch? im not really feeling like half assing it and then rebuilding 6 times over the next few years, im hoping that i can build it once as a sort of basic streetable beast and then maybe in a few years tubing the entire thing and making a ttc contender. Right now i live in the mud capital of tx but i plan on seeing rocks and desert and moving someplace cool.

Throw me out some options for cheap and reliable, i know i can fit 44's with 4 inches of lift and an sas'd front end but im not ready for 44's, i can cut weld and fabricate pretty well and ive got a lot of tools at my disposal. Which parts do i absolutely need to replace? my motor, tranny and transfer case are keepers as far as i can tell maybe they could use some upgrades but otherwise..? does the ifs have to go or is there anything i can do to make it worth it? ive seen some pretty trick ifs builds lately on some buggys, my rear axle? i guess its not even up too the task is it? i counted and its only got 10 bolts..

Should i just go ahead and 4 link the front and rear and box the frame? moneys real tight but i cant stand to not do it right..

What would you do if you could scratch build a fullsize chevy on the cheap with the main goal being reliability..


Heres a pic of the truck, the headache rack isnt bolted on, im thinking about stripping and painting it black, the new themes gonna be black and red, the running boards will have to go to make room for boatsiding or sliders and the hood isnt closed.
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa77/dirty_canadian/ThuJan14172411AmericaChicago2010.jpg

I dont know much about the flex on the frame but boxing it would be benifical if you plan to beat it.

Reliable and 4-link don't go together cheaply. Leafs are easy, cheap and plentiful. You already have the good leafs out back so a shackle flip and a 14 bolt swap would work well, be reliable and finishes your rear end.

For the front, there are SAS leaf spring kits from ORU that make swapping in a d44/d60 easy. Dana44's are cheaper then 60s by about a 1/4 the price (by me) and if you aren't running tires bigger then 35's/36's they will work just right. If u absolutely need a 60 that will be a big expense especially since you need a drivers drop ford hi pinion. Cross over steering as well unless you make it yourself.

If you run a hp60, a 4 link with trac bar would be a good investment suspension wise, but 10 rod ends, air/coil over shocks, brackets and tubing add up quickly. Leafs will go in with a bit of fab work, but be much cheaper and reliable as well.

there are tons of options for you, but it comes down to your budget.

My final opinion: leafs are good investments for reliability, especially on a street truck. A d44 will weigh less and be more affordable and hold up to a good size tire. Stick with whats works well for you and stay on budget or you will end up like most of us with no money and an unfinished but beefcake rig.

Don't get ahead of yourself with the build either. You want a running lifted truck before you boat side and wreck the body. Sometimes people don't even boat side their trucks and just add sliders and run that for years. Its Necessity not wants when building a rig on a budget.

First off, I think that the newbie forum would be better suited for this thread.

Second, How many miles are on the drivetrain? Checked U-joints? Filter changes? Gasket changes? Fluid changes? Fluid leaks? Tire wear?


Ive been doing some browsing on here and ive debated keeping the gmc as a dd and buying a yota or a jeep to build but i like my fullsize and my plan is to use it as a place to live this summer for a 10 week road trip. I plan on getting it into shape quick and cheap so i can be at all the different off road events this year, not competing but just there. Which means that my two main goals are cheap and reliable.

IF your just driving and living in there, I would suggest a topper(cant believe i just said that) and ain air mattress to go back there.

I would wait on the lift for a few years until your ready to do your SAS, which also means waiting for BIG tires. I would just go with a set of A/T's.

I agree with that guy. there are all kinds of 'reliable'. Your money is best spend greasing it, changing u joints, etc, etc, etc. Then buy some 31-33 inch mud terrains and a lunchbox locker for the rear.

I dont know much about the flex on the frame but boxing it would be benifical if you plan to beat it.

Reliable and 4-link don't go together cheaply. Leafs are easy, cheap and plentiful. You already have the good leafs out back so a shackle flip and a 14 bolt swap would work well, be reliable and finishes your rear end.

For the front, there are SAS leaf spring kits from ORU that make swapping in a d44/d60 easy. Dana44's are cheaper then 60s by about a 1/4 the price (by me) and if you aren't running tires bigger then 35's/36's they will work just right. If u absolutely need a 60 that will be a big expense especially since you need a drivers drop ford hi pinion. Cross over steering as well unless you make it yourself.

If you run a hp60, a 4 link with trac bar would be a good investment suspension wise, but 10 rod ends, air/coil over shocks, brackets and tubing add up quickly. Leafs will go in with a bit of fab work, but be much cheaper and reliable as well.

there are tons of options for you, but it comes down to your budget.

My final opinion: leafs are good investments for reliability, especially on a street truck. A d44 will weigh less and be more affordable and hold up to a good size tire. Stick with whats works well for you and stay on budget or you will end up like most of us with no money and an unfinished but beefcake rig.

Don't get ahead of yourself with the build either. You want a running lifted truck before you boat side and wreck the body. Sometimes people don't even boat side their trucks and just add sliders and run that for years. Its Necessity not wants when building a rig on a budget.

Thanks for the info, im gonna do some shopping for d44's, d60's and a 14 bolt for the rear. Im pretty sure around here i can find quite a few for cheap, this place is like Americas graveyard for people and vehicles.

First off, I think that the newbie forum would be better suited for this thread.

I debated it but i think this will be my build thread, the thread may start of pretty nubish but i learn pretty quick and i needed real answers.

Second, How many miles are on the drivetrain? Checked U-joints? Filter changes? Gasket changes? Fluid changes? Fluid leaks? Tire wear?

The drivetrain has 175,000 kilometers so 110,000 miles approximately, for 12 years old shes in damn good shape, u-joints are good, filters are good, tires wear good but i do need new fronts which is gonna be a big factor i need to address soon.


IF your just driving and living in there, I would suggest a topper(cant believe i just said that) and ain air mattress to go back there.

I would wait on the lift for a few years until your ready to do your SAS, which also means waiting for BIG tires. I would just go with a set of A/T's.

Well i dont plan on "living" in it but i will be road tripping to different motorsport events and doing lots of camping from it, no topper and air matress, ive got a motorcycle that will be in the bed most of the time and ive got a hennessey hammock to sleep in. Its got some 31" "at's" right now and they dont quite cut it, i need a project and ive got the tools right now, in 6 months i wont have the tools every day like i do so i might as well build it.

I agree with that guy. there are all kinds of 'reliable'. Your money is best spend greasing it, changing u joints, etc, etc, etc. Then buy some 31-33 inch mud terrains and a lunchbox locker for the rear.

Why shouldnt i just do an sas and 14 bolt, weld some frame support and cut a ton, put some 38"s under it and ride is it really gonna be that unreliable if i do it right?

Why shouldnt i just do an sas and 14 bolt, weld some frame support and cut a ton, put some 38"s under it and ride is it really gonna be that unreliable if i do it right?


Because you said you didn't have any time or money. Do you think that just because you buy a set of axles for $1,000 dollars that is all the money you will be into it?

Why are you asking these questions if you are the expert?

SAS, 14 bolt, and 38's should not be part of the plan for "road tripping". :laughing:

My suggestion would be to ditch the running boards, buy a set of 33" KM2s (or other mud terrian), and trim till they fit.

Because you said you didn't have any time or money. Do you think that just because you buy a set of axles for $1,000 dollars that is all the money you will be into it?

Why are you asking these questions if you are the expert?

Well i can make money, i just dont want to spend 20k$. I came here looking for a new project and i dont feel like doing it the wrong way, i was asking what you would do if you were to do it again starting with what im starting with. Im no expert but i dont want to just buy some bolt on lift kit and some mall krawler 20"s, i didnt mean to be an ass but i dont see the point in continuing to own a gas hungry 4x4 thats incapable of doing the things i want while ive got plenty of tools available.

x2 on the running boards...Then start a "build thread" (what ever that is) when you have all the parts for your axle swappery.

If you need inspiration search ----> **92**

Ok, if I had to do it again I would take the $10k I have spent and buy a used ford F250/F350 extended cab with a v10 and run it. :)

SAS, 14 bolt, and 38's should not be part of the plan for "road tripping". :laughing:

Why not? theres plenty of bigger trucks running 14 bolts and going hundreds of thousands of miles from the factory, plenty of mall crawlers on 38"s(remember im in Tx), my mileage may not be great but with correct gearing it wont be too bad.. a correctly built sas wouldnt be a hazard?

Im just curious guys. im coming from a car with a built suspension, 9" with locker etc.. ive broken plenty of input shafts and i know the routine but when done right i dont see the problem.. inform me.

We are all trying to INFORM you that you will be better off leaving it stock for dependability.

You will just be wasting your money on parts and gas if you do a SAS with big tires. It rides nice and is dependable right now. Just leave it. Wow, I sound like my dad LOL

We are all trying to INFORM you that you will be better off leaving it stock for dependability.

You will just be wasting your money on parts and gas if you do a SAS with big tires. It rides nice and is dependable right now. Just leave it. Wow, I sound like my dad LOL

Well then thank you, i think im just gonna ditch the running boards, build some bumpers and weld up some beefy rock sliders, stick some 33's under it and drive.

My neighbors got an immaculate 80's model single cab yota that i may try to buy and wrench on since my GMC is too nice to cut up.

Ok, so whats your budget?

Im not saying that you wouldnt do it right, but I would still wait till after the road trip to start major mods. Its like a disease, once you cut, you cant stop. Once you do, youve got some major kinks you gotta get worked out. You cant just slap it all together, call it good, and take off on a 10 week road trip.

Ok, so whats your budget?

Im not saying that you wouldnt do it right, but I would still wait till after the road trip to start major mods. Its like a disease, once you cut, you cant stop. Once you do, youve got some major kinks you gotta get worked out. You cant just slap it all together, call it good, and take off on a 10 week road trip.

Well the roadtrip wouldnt happen until june which gives me a good while to piece together a pretty safe setup. Budget would be whatever i can make over the next six months and my tires will be free, moneys not hard to make around here with all the refineries but i only want to work as much as i have too.

I got under the truck for a few hours yesterday and a while this morning, started measuring and mocking a bumper, its gonna be beefy and possibly stainless steel, i may run a hoop around the inside top edge of the engine bay welded to the firewall with plate on both sides(in a good spot that could someday receive rollcage bars)the hoop could have three down bars connecting to the frame, motor mounts and front bumper through the grill(to each side of a winch mount somehow avoiding the radiator). Ill get some pics with my idea up when the rain stops later. It looks like it wouldnt be that hard to trim the front of the fenders and if i did happen to sas it i would just need to move the axle forward 2-4" s from stock, then what all would i need? leaf springs, shackles, shackle hanger/brackets, front driveshaft, somehow make the steering work? im gonna see if i can find a fully intact d60 with disk brakes and everything, i could then put the disks from my ifs on the rear(stock drums) i need to figure out what gears are in my stock rear and possibly find a front axle with the same. then a few months down the road do a 14 bolt, with gear swap front and rear.

Im still debating doing it or not, im shopping for a smaller truck but theyre hard to find, around here everyone's got diesels.

Search online for stock gear ratios in your make/model. Im sure somebody around here knows exactly what it is, but I dont. My only other solution is take the diff cover off, and check your ring gear teeth, and take your pinion out, and count the teeth on it. Divide Ring gear teeth/Pinion teeth and BAM. Gear ratio found the hard way.

You COULD start ordering your tubing, johnny joints, etc for your 4link, and find your donor 1ton for axles... If your gonna do a SAS, you might as well do it the right way.:D

As for steering and brakes, I got nothing. They arent exactly my strong spot so im hoping somebody else will chime in and help ya out.

Start your front bumper. Your gonna have to wait to figure out the rear one once you take the bed off, and cut frame. Figure out how tall you wanna go and how much fender you wanna trim, so you can order your springs/perches/hangers. Once you figure that one out, order your shocks. I suggest Bilstein. Ive never tried them, but have heard nothing but good things.

I dont really see why you couldnt build your sliders either.

Just my .02, but its not my build. Good luck, Ill b watching to see how this one pans out.:smokin:

We are all trying to INFORM you that you will be better off leaving it stock for dependability.

You will just be wasting your money on parts and gas if you do a SAS with big tires. It rides nice and is dependable right now. Just leave it. Wow, I sound like my dad LOL

that is sig worthy :lmao:

Search online for stock gear ratios in your make/model. Im sure somebody around here knows exactly what it is, but I dont. My only other solution is take the diff cover off, and check your ring gear teeth, and take your pinion out, and count the teeth on it. Divide Ring gear teeth/Pinion teeth and BAM. Gear ratio found the hard way.


if he looks at the part number's in his glove compartment, the ratio should start with a "g". if it's GT4, then it has 3.73

Dude I would save a grand and buy a little beater P/U before you start tearing
your truck apart. Youll be happier in the end when you have something to get to work in the morning without having to put your stuff back together just to make it to work. Just my opinon :p

Just wondering what you ever did with the truck, or did u buy another one?