I searched, probably not well enough -

Is there an easy way to change the bolt pattern on the sterling to 8x6.5 instead of 8x170mm? I know my front 60 is easy thanks the branik. What about the rear?

Thanks in advance. Ordering wheels today, want to make the right choice!

Do you have a matching set of Super Duty axles?

Yeah I've got matching axles. I decided to just buy metric beadlocks. That way I can keep it all stock.

Yeah I've got matching axles. I decided to just buy metric beadlocks. That way I can keep it all stock.

You made a very smart decision. The only down side to 8x170 is that you can't borrow an 8x6.5 spare. There's plenty of wheel options. If you have matching axles there is NO reason to change them.... MAYBE if you have a set of very custom very blingy bead locks.

I've never tried it, but it would seem that all you have to do is change the hub over

Allied is making a custom run of their Monster Aluminum beadlocks for me with the metric pattern. The main reason for converting was so I could 1)buy used wheels 2)sell wheels easier if ever needed.

But I think, like you said, this is the easiest and most cost effective route. So I'll have some bling bead locks soon!

The earlier Sterling Hubs should work.

they will not work. I tried this myself and have both axles.
the inner bearing is bigger on the 10.5

Suppose you could pop out the studs, weld em in and re-drill em.
better have a drill press and a rotating base for this one...

they will not work. I tried this myself and have both axles.
the inner bearing is bigger on the 10.5

Suppose you could pop out the studs, weld em in and re-drill em.
better have a drill press and a rotating base for this one...

good to know that the hubs dont swap, nobody ever seems to have solid info on that

re drilling is another option, you could probably just drill the new pattern between the old stud holes

you could, but the meat of the hub is about 1/2 of what it is where the studs currently are on the back side. Not sure if would be a weak point or not, but work pointing out.

they will not work. I tried this myself and have both axles.
the inner bearing is bigger on the 10.5

Suppose you could pop out the studs, weld em in and re-drill em.
better have a drill press and a rotating base for this one...

what part exactly doesnt work ? the id of the bear body? the od of the race?

i bet if you get your tech on you can find a bastard setup to convert.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/Knowledge/ForMaintenanceProfessionals/Pages/AutomotiveAftermarketPartCatalog.aspx

The shafts are diffirent legnts between the 10.25 and the 10.5

The spindles are shorter on the 10.5 and so are the hubs.

Behold.

I lined em up with the inner bearing races for refrence

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/camccardell/sterling%20comparison/3410050.jpg

Here are the hubs

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/camccardell/sterling%20comparison/3410052.jpg

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/camccardell/sterling%20comparison/3410053.jpg

I am welding in the hols on the metric hubs and am going to re-drill them for standard.

On a side note, the 10.25 studs are bigger and have a finer thread, and the 10.25 bearings are a lot bigger. This confuses me, because the 10.5 is rated for more weight than the 10.25 and the carrier and carrier bearings are the same. The pinion bearing on the 10.25 is bigger too. The only thing bigger on the 10.5 is the actual ring gear, so what gives?
Anyone out there know?